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    What's Eric Eating Episodes 402 and 403

    Japanese restaurant partners dish on award-winning Houston sushi spot

    CultureMap Staff
    Sep 2, 2024 | 4:27 pm
    Katami Ryan Snyder and Manabu Hori Horiuchi

    Ryan Snyder and chef Hori-san are this week's guests.

    Photo by Alex Tolentino

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” Ryan Snyder and chef Manabu Horiuchi (known as Hori) join CultureMap editor Eric Sandler to discuss Japanese fine dining restaurant Katami. Opened in November 2023, Katami, a more luxurious sibling to Kata Robata, has earned wide acclaim, including spots on best new restaurant lists from Texas Monthly and Robb Report.



    The conversation begins with both men discussing their time together at Kubo’s, the pioneering Japanese restaurant in Rice Village. Ultimately, Snyder recruited to Hori to join him in opening Kata Robata, paving the way for it to become one of Houston’s most acclaimed restaurants. Although Snyder left the company for awhile, the duo reunited to opened Katami.

    Snyder and Hori discuss various aspects of the restaurant, including the motivation to open it, the ways in which it’s different from Kata Robata, and the restaurant’s future plans. That starts with a climate-controlled patio that will be opening in the company months. They also discuss the six-seat omakase counter that will give diners an opportunity for a more personal meal served by Hori.

    “This will be different in several ways. It’s a little standalone building. It’s only six seats. You’ll walk in through you own door with Hori, an assistant, and one server. It’s going to be very intimate, but I think a very unique experience. Hori’s really excited for it,” Synder says.

    “It’s very personal. Only six seats. I can give the best service to our customers, and I can use the best fish. Katami is a busy restaurant, we have so much fish. It’s a premium service we can do for a six-seat counter,” Hori adds.

    “I don’t want to unveil too much. We’re still working out the details, but you will be well taken care of from the time you exit the car until the time you get back in your car,” Snyder says. “We’re going to be really focused on the guest experience in a way that’s hard when you’re serving hundreds of guests a night.”

    Listen to the full episode to hear both men’s thoughts on the recent trend of dry aging fish, including why it’s not served at either Kata Robata or Katami. They also discuss the hand roll trend and whether Hori would ever be interested in opening an izakaya-style restaurant.



    On this week’s other episode, Sandler and co-host Michel Fulmer begin by discussing the news of the week. Their topics include: the changes taking place at State of Grace; Southern Living’s list of the South’s best new barbecue joints, and Coffee Fellows expanding its presence in Houston.

    In the restaurant of the week segment, Fulmer and Sandler share thoughts on their recent meal at Granger’s. Located in the Museum District, the comfort food restaurant opened in June. Tune in for their take on its food, decor, and service.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 10 am on ESPN 97.5.

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    say hey to Hypsi

    Houston chef's hip new Italian restaurant now open in Heights hotel

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 4, 2025 | 5:05 pm
    Hypsi restaurant food spread
    Photo by Julie Soefer
    Hypsi serves pasta and other Itaian-inspired dishes.

    A new Italian restaurant is now open in the Heights. Located within the newly opened Hotel Daphne, Hypsi marks chef Terrence Gallivan’s return to professional cooking in Houston.

    Known for his time as the co-execuive chef of The Pass and Provisions and owner of ElRo Pizza and Crudo, Gallivan brings strong culinary credentials to Hypsi. Although he isn’t known explicitly for Italian fare, he has significant experience making pizza, pasts, and other Italian-inspired dishes. After closing ElRo last year, the chef says that working for Bunkhouse Hotels, the Austin-based company that operates the Daphne, had a lot of appeal.

    “My wife and I always made it a point to stop at their places whenever we’re in Austin. They know how to make cool stuff,” Gallivan says.

    Hypsi’s menu includes updated takes on Italian fare begins with starters such as lamb meatballs, black truffle arancini, and Caesar salad. A selection of house-made pastas include squid ink radiatori with rock shrimp, butternut squash tortellini, and lumache with vodka sauce that gets a little heat from nduja. Entree choices include a roast chicken, pork Milanese, and roasted snapper with salsa verde.

    The restaurant is also open for breakfast during the week and brunch on the weekends with items such as a panatone waffle, frittata, and breakfast sandwich. Lunch will follow in January.

    “We took inspiration from tradition without being traditional,” Gallivan says. Later, he adds, “For me, it’s about balance. You try to please everybody. I want my mom to enjoy herself as much as a 25-year-old foodie. It’s important to hit as many marks as you can.”

    One of the restaurant’s signatures will be the mozzarella cart that rolls through its dining room. Gallivan says he’s sourcing a mix of both American and imported Italian cheeses that will rotate every week or two. The cheese is served with a range of pickled fruit and vegetables, olive oil, aged balsamic vinegar, focaccia, and more. Of course, seeing a cart immediately grabs diners’ attention, making them want whatever is on offer.

    “That’s the beauty of carts,” Gallivan says. “It’s a fun thing to do. I think sometimes we get a little too serious in restaurants. It’s supposed to be fun. People are here to enjoy themselves.”

    All that eating and drinking takes place in a dining room that’s inspired by Prohibition-era speakeasies, according to press materials. Details include blueberry lava stone on the bar, vintage velvet chairs, and custom Carimate dining chairs by Vico Magistretti. An outdoor patio features brick pavers, mosaic tables, and sculptures.

    Hypsi restaurant food spread

    Photo by Julie Soefer

    Hypsi serves pasta and other Itaian-inspired dishes.

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