wines of the year
CultureMap Wine Guy Chris Shepherd uncorks his best bottles for 2023
Our Wine Guy drank a lot of good bottles this year.
Editor's note: Long before Chris Shepherd became a James Beard Award-winning chef, he developed enough of a passion for wine to work at Brennan's of Houston as a sommelier. He maintains that interest to this day. In this week's column, he shares his favorite wines of 2023. Take it away, Chris.
As we close out the year, I wanted to sit back and reflect on all the delicious wines I had the opportunity to try. I do a pretty decent job taking photos so I can remember things I enjoy later, whether it be how delicious the wine was or the scenario of when it was consumed. I love it when a wine just jumps up out of the glass and gets you when you least expected it.
It’s a fun exercise to go through photos and compile a list. Try it, and you might surprise yourself with what got you excited! By no means did I take photos of every bottle, but it gave me a good snapshot of the year for sure. Yes, this list has some unicorns on it, but it also has wines that I didn’t see coming — that’s the fun of trying different things all the time. Hopefully, you had at least one — or 15 —new discoveries in 2023.
This year, I learned I love Pinot Noir, Champagne (both were a given before the year started). Things I didn’t see coming were Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and American Sangiovese. Who would have thought? Yes, I like pretty much everything, but those varietals kept showing up in my photo stream.
Here are the wines that I feel are a good representation of the best I drank this year.
Right off the bat, we swing for the fences when we went to Birdie’s in Austin to visit our friends Arjav and Tracy. Arjav has a killer palate. He put a few stellar bottles in front of us, but the 2019 Jérôme Chezeaux Vosne Romanée sang sweet songs that night!
I spent some time on Last Bubbles (you should check this website out), and I ended up purchasing a few bottles of Remy Massin 2017 Special Club. This is delicious Champagne, but what makes this one unique is that it’s made from Pinot Blanc. Traditionally, Champagne is made from three grapes — Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay — so this one is definitely an outlier and it’s awesome!
I had the great opportunity to spend some time out in Napa this past summer doing a little work and got to taste some really amazing things. Lindsey was able to come out a few times, and one night at dinner we had a beautiful 2017 Produttori Del Barbaresco Muncagota Riserva. This house is pretty readily available, and you should try anything they produce. I’m a big fan!
Now we should talk about some of the things I didn’t have on my bingo card but did I ever win. Why was I out in Napa? I was doing some work with Robert Mondavi Winery. They temporarily closed the winery in Oakville for renovations and moved the tasting room to the City of Napa for the next two to three years. One of the first things I did was sit with the winemakers and taste through all the wines. What is being grown on their estate properties is absolutely delicious. I know what you’re thinking but trust me — go get some.
One second of my nose in the glass of the 2021 Robert Mondavi Stags Leap District Sauvignon Blanc, and I was blown away. The best part is that every time I went out there I got the opportunity to end the day with that on the front porch. If you ever have the opportunity to try the Robert Mondavi Winery To Kalon Vineyard I Block Fume Blanc, you should. You can thank me later because it’s one of the best blocks in one of the best vineyards in the world.
Another Sauvignon Blanc that I was reminded of this year was the 2019 Comte LaFond Grande Cuvée that I had at Lees Den. I know I’ve talked about it a lot, and now I’m having a hard time getting my hands on it because you guys buy it all! Save some for me please!
On to Chardonnay — yes, I will drink Chablis all the time and I love it, but I recently was turned on to a newish producer that comes from an old pedigree. Steven McDonald at Pappas Bros. Steakhouse introduced me to Pierre Girardin on one of my visits there and it got me. You might know the name from his father Vincent Girardin, a longtime winemaker who sold most of his vineyards back in 2011 but kept some for his son. He’s making killer wine especially the 2020 Meursault “Les Narvaux.”
Lindsey and I just went out to Santa Barbara and went to The Hilt Estate and, lo and behold, another Chardonnay pulled the rug out from under me. The 2020 Radian Vineyard Chardonnay was stunning. Long gone are the days of heavy toasted wood and creamy texture in these wines (I’m not going to knock them, but they just aren’t for me). I’m glad I found some Chardonnay for me.
Two California Sangiovese wines also hit me like a ton of bricks: the 2016 “Stagliano” Sangiovese from Staglin Vineyards and the 2021 Monte Rio Cellars Rivers Edge Sangiovese were both absolutely delightful, whether you are having bowl of pasta or some grilled chicken wings. I expect a phone call when that happens.
Now for the unicorns. Why are they unicorns, you ask? Because they are wines that are so rare and sought after. While I was out in Napa, I had dinner with some friends at a sushi bar, and one of them brought a 1999 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Grands Echezeaux. My eyes lit up and my mouth salivated. Was this happening? Yes!!! It was true, and it was magical. For being almost 25 years old, it was so fresh, tannins relaxed, and the mouthfeel was like a velvet slipper with a fantastic mix of earth and soft fruit. I want to thank that person for bringing it to dinner every day.
The last unicorns all happened in one evening — when it happens again, you better get your ticket. This was at the La Fête Du Champagne dinner at Bludorn back in November. This was a true sensory overload, like a Houston spring downpour — it was fast, overwhelming, and then gone. Vintage and highly sought after Champagne was coming at us from all directions by the hands of all the sommeliers in the city. Magnums of 2002 Krug Clos du Menil, 1990 Dom Perignon, Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill 2006, and the hits just came on coming. It was a very special night for sure.
I hope that your wine year was just as exciting. There is still time left in 2023 to add more to your photo stream! Until next year, happy holidays, be safe and remember to smile!
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What are your favorite wines you've tried this year? Tell Chris Shepherd via email at chris@chrisshepherd.is.
Chris Shepherd won a James Beard Award for Best Chef: Southwest in 2014. The Southern Smoke Foundation, a nonprofit he co-founded with his wife Lindsey Brown, has distributed more than $11 million to hospitality workers in crisis through its Emergency Relief Fund. Catch his TV show, Eat Like a Local, every Saturday at 10 am on KPRC Channel 2.
