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    Mr. Botello Comes to Washington

    Acclaimed Brenham barbecue joint picks prime Houston location

    Eric Sandler
    Jul 28, 2017 | 9:00 am

    Truth Barbeque, the Brenham restaurant ranked 10th in the state by Texas Monthly, has picked where it will open its eagerly anticipated Houston location. Only a month after announcing plans to open in the Bayou City, pitmaster-owner Leonard Botello IV tells CultureMap that the rumors are true; he and business partner Johnny Carrabba have signed a lease to open Truth Houston in the former J. Black’s space on Washington Avenue.

    “We’ve actually been sitting on it for about six months or so now,” Botello says. “From a business standpoint, with the development going up across the street, I just think it would be a great place to make a footprint in Houston.”

    Botello refers to the Buffalo Heights development, a mixed-used complex from CityCentre developer Midway that will include a new H-E-B. Although it will be located along one of Houston's busiest streets, Botello says he plans to preserve as much of the original’s atmosphere as possible.

    “We’re going to try to hit it home doing the same thing we did there,” Botello says. “I want people to have the same experience, same music, same vibe. I love the area. I think we’ll be able to knock it out of the park with that place.”

    In addition to the building's brief history as a barbecue joint called Phil's BBQ in 2010 and 2011, the space’s size also helped make it the right place to be Truth’s second location. Botello says he’s looking forward to working in a full-size kitchen that will allow him to make the restaurant’s signature sides more efficiently, and he’s working with kitchen architects to create a flow that will help the line move as quickly as possible.

    Prioritizing speed will help ensure the restaurant’s lunch business is strong, but Botello says quality comes first. In order to serve meats that match the standard set by the original location, Truth Houston will utilize the same style of offset smokers that Brenham does.

    “The last pit I brought here as a prototype for Houston,” Botello says. “I designed that. I tweaked some stuff. I wanted to see what I needed to fix on there so that they’d be fine-tuned machines before we got to Houston.”

    Botello wouldn’t say when he thinks the restaurant might open, but he did acknowledge the space shouldn’t require major renovations. Hopefully that speeds the process along. As good as barbecue in Houston has become, the city still has room for a place as committed to quality as Truth.

    Leonard Botello IV is bringing his offset smoker to Washington Avenue.

    Truth BBQ Leonard Botello IV
    Photo by Robert Jacob Lerma
    Leonard Botello IV is bringing his offset smoker to Washington Avenue.
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    where's eric eating

    CultureMap editor's 10 favorite dishes at Houston restaurants in November

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 2, 2025 | 5:13 pm
    Charm Taphouse & BBQ
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Try the sausages at Charm Taphouse & BBQ.

    November’s dining adventures across Houston consisted of only a couple of new restaurants, an upscale, contemporary Chinese restaurant in River Oaks; an ambitious neighborhood eatery in Garden Oaks; and a buzzy barbecue spot on the border of Conroe and The Woodlands.

    The month also provided me with an opportunity to visit a veteran chef in his new home, catch up one of the city’s new additions to the Michelin Guide, and sample a po’ boy from the rising star chef behind Houston’s hottest new burger joint.

    As a reminder, this list isn’t ranked. I liked all of these dishes for different reasons.

    Here are my favorite dishes I ate at Houston-area restaurants in November.

    Lobster Fettuccine at State of Grace
    Chef Ryan Lachaine is off to a strong start as the executive chef of the River Oaks restaurant. The lobster fettuccine — pasta made in-house, of course — features a generous portion of seafood along with a lobster-infused sauce americane. In addition to a couple of Riel favorites, the caviar tots and the butter burgers, he’s also introduced a cheese fondue that matches the menu’s Continental-influenced, retro vibe.

    Birria Beef Pacchei at Lazy Lane
    The newly opened Garden Oaks restaurant is putting a Houston spin on classic Mediterranean dishes. In this entree, house made pasta is paired with braised beef cheek, radishes, salsa verde, and herbs, turning the building blocks of barbacoa tacos into a form that fits the ambitious neighborhood restaurant. Other highlights from the meal included Spanish meatballs and crispy skin ocean trout over beet risotto.

    Deviled Crab at Credence
    One of the 14 Houston restaurants added to the Michelin Guide for 2025, the live fire restaurant near Memorial City Mall serves this dish instead of a crab cake. Blue crab meat gets sauteed in smoky tomato butter for a bite that’s sweet, smoky, and satisfying. Pair it with the grilled snapper for the full Gulf Coast seafood experience.

    Peking Duck at Maison Chinoise
    This contemporary Chinese restaurant from the company behind Toulouse and Lombardi Cucina Italiana is already winning fans in River Oaks. The Peking duck, a speciality of chef Jordan He, delivers tender meat, crispy skin, and paper-thin crepes that are worthy of any version served around town. Pair it with some of the restaurant’s extensive dumpling selection for the full experience.

    Branzino at Okto
    Chef Yotam Dolev recently updated the menu at this Mediterranean-influenced Montrose restaurant. Seared to achieve a crispy skin, the flakey white fish sits in a tomato-gazpacho broth with fennel and olives. Don’t miss the signature frena bread and Greek salad.

    Shrimp Po’ Boy at Boo’s Burgers
    One perk of moving from pop-up to brick-and-mortar is that it allows Boo’s Burgers chef-owner Joseph Boudreaux to indulge creative impulses such as a rotating Friday fish special that’s currently this sandwich. Loaded with a generous serving of crispy, well-fried shrimp, the sandwich is simply dressed shredded lettuce, tomato, and the chef’s smoky burger sauce. Get it before Boudreaux moves on to another special.

    Veal Piccata at Fielding’s River Oaks
    The River Oaks restaurants is fond of fusion flavors, and its take on veal piccata is no exception. Instead of the usual lemon-caper sauce, Fielding’s serves its veal in a richer mushroom cream sauce with fall-friendly caramelized apples and creamed spinach. It’s a heartier take on the classic that’s well-suited to winter’s recent arrival.

    Barbecue at Charm Taphouse & BBQ
    Thai fare meets Texas at this restaurant on the border of The Woodlands and Tomball. The house made sausages are a standout, particularly the beef-and-basil and German hotlink, particularly when dipped in the restaurant’s tangy nam jim jaew. While the brisket and ribs could’ve used a little longer in the smoking, a weekend prime rib special with a crispy crust and well-rendered fat already has me contemplating a return visit.

    Shrimp Tacos at Cochinita & Co.
    At this restaurant in the East End, plump shrimp are paired with a sweet and spicy pineapple pico and a morita aioli, then wrapped in house made corn tortillas. Good ingredients and precise execution — the shrimp are cooked gently enough to retain a springy texture and mild sweetness — make them some of my favorite tacos in Houston. A side of the vegetarian black beans make for a tasty companion.

    Tonkotsu Gachi at Japanese Ramen Gachi
    Influenced by Shawn the Food Sheep, I visited the two-year-old Med Center-area restaurant for dinner. The signature tonkotsu features a well-seasoned, milk-colored broth with deep pork flavor and major umami punch. Paired with some karaage it made for a very satisfying dinner — just be aware that the Food Sheep’s flock may overwhelm the restaurant’s ability to serve diners quickly.



    Charm Taphouse & BBQ

    Photo by Eric Sandler

    Try the sausages at Charm Taphouse & BBQ.

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