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    Get ready to drool

    Talking turkey, beef stew & Iced Fudge Lollies with The Splendid Table's LynneRossetto Kasper

    Ashlea Miller
    Nov 24, 2011 | 9:15 am
    • The Splendid Table's How To Eat Weekends
    • Lynne Rossetto Kasper

    Editor's note: Lynne Rossetto Kasper will be taking calls from 10 a.m. until noon on Thursday to answer listeners' Thanksgiving Day questions in a live annual special called Turkey Confidential, broadcast on KUFH-FM (88.7). Public radio listeners from across the nation my call in to 1-800-537-5252 to ask Kasper their most pressing Thanksgiving cooking questions.

    Listening to Lynne Rossetto Kasper describe food is a bit like savoring a rich meal itself – her voice is warm, buttery and soothing, and her vivid conversations about food leave you feeling content and, oddly enough, rested.

    In short, she is human tryptophan.

    My personal recipe for chicken liver pâté done with organic chickens is killer. That’s one of our Christmas treats — it’s so rich, it’s ridiculous.

    Actually enjoying a meal with the affable host of American Public Media’s long-running weekly radio show The Splendid Table, on the other hand, is invigorating. In between promoting her new book, The Splendid Table’s How to Eat Weekends, Rossetto Kasper sat down with CultureMap Austin during the Texas Book Festival to discuss her long career, her newest collection of recipes and, of course, her favorite foods.

    CultureMap: You and The Splendid Table producer Sally Swift had already put out How to Eat Supper. What was the impetus for this follow-up book?

    Lynne Rossetto Kasper: The first book that we did together was obviously about work nights and things that you could get on the table quickly. There were a lot of dishes that didn’t hit that category and things we loved to make. Also, for me personally, there were so many dishes either I’d been doing forever or that I use to do and loved, and it was nostalgic to go back. It was sort of a trip down memory lane.

    CM: The book includes 100 recipes for multi-course weekend dinners. Do you have any favorites of the bunch?

    LRK: The beef stew, certainly. You may make it two times a year, but it’s a killer beef stew. One of my all-time favorites, which is the opposite of the beef stew and takes 10 minutes, is called Iced Fudge Lollies. They’re fudge pops done with cocoa, sugar, water and some vanilla, and you swear you’re eating the richest chocolate.

    CM: About that beef stew. It took several attempts to create the recipe you consider to be “the stew of all stews.” Any insider tips for perfecting it?

    LRK: First, you don’t have to get the fatty cut of meat you’ve always been told to get. Instead, get the leg, or shank, often called “soup meat.” Curlicues of collagen are marbled through the meat, and when it breaks down slowly during cooking it gives you that silky, slightly sticky, delicious natural thickening. This is exactly the cut I remember having in France in many stews.

    Second, you never, under any circumstances, at any time, boil a stew. The meat will toughen. Never have that meat get above an internal temperature of 160 degrees.

    All that fuss about stew tastes better the second day, it’s absolutely true, so let the stew sit in its marinade after it’s been cooked.

    Trick three: The marinade ahead of time does squat. Where the huge difference comes in is to marinate after the fact. All that fuss about stew tastes better the second day, it’s absolutely true, so let the stew sit in its marinade after it’s been cooked.

    CM: You grew up with Italian food, taught Chinese cooking early in your career, and your book covers myriad cuisines from Mexican to Indian. Is there any cuisine you haven’t mastered?

    LRK: In your profession there should always be an area that you treat as sport. You don’t try to become an expert at it, you just go out and have fun with it, and this is how I feel about Vietnamese food. I’ve learned some things in spite of myself, but it’s really my "fun" food.

    CM: What’s your favorite spice to cook with?

    LRK: At this moment, my favorite spice is allspice because I discovered it’s pretty fabulous with meats, pretty swell with most vegetables and really wonderful with tomatoes. The other combination I’m really loving, especially in baking, is whole cardamom pods and vanilla. I’m thinking of something like a buttermilk pie for Thanksgiving where the filling is made with cardamom and vanilla.

    CM: You’re reaching for comfort food. Do you grab salty or sweet?

    LRK: Generally salty, but I love sweet things that have crunch and also sweet things that have a tremendous creaminess, things with marshmallow qualities. My ultimate delight is cake with real French butter cream that has been done masterfully. It’s really one of my great downfalls. I have fantasies about it.

    CM: Is there anything you won’t eat? (Aside from okra, which Kasper establishes is “the only vegetable she really doesn’t like” after seeing it on the cafe menu.)

    LRK: Most innards, except for liver. Liver I eat if it comes from an animal that’s organic, because [the liver] is a storehouse. But my personal recipe for chicken liver pâté done with organic chickens is killer. That’s one of our Christmas treats — it’s so rich, it’s ridiculous.

    CM: The Splendid Table started in 1994 after your debut book by the same name won both the James Beard and Julia Child Cookbook of the Year awards. What was the show meant to accomplish?

    LRK: We started the show with the whole concept of food is more than cooking. It would be wonderful if everyone cooked, but the real idea behind the show was that this is an immense subject. This is a subject that embraces political concerns, ethical concerns, philosophy, spirituality, satire, hands-on cooking, science, history…

    CM: How has the food scene changed since you started your career in the late ’60s, early ’70s?

    LRK: Just as with our political scene, where you have so many choices of candidates and what they stand for, a lot of people are asking questions about food now that we never asked 15, 17, 18 years ago, and I think that’s healthy. I want to see people asking more and more and more questions, and that’s what we do on the show.

    CM: You started talking about organic, locally grown food when the show started 17 years ago. Are you pleased to see it finally catching on?

    LRK: You have to be fair — especially today. We have people right now who can’t keep a roof over their heads, who really don’t know if they’re going to have dinner tonight. When you have people sitting on their thrones, representing maybe 10 percent of the population who can afford a choice saying, ‘Is that local? Otherwise we shouldn’t be selling it,’ well, Buster, no, it isn’t, but this is what some people have. The real point is, you can’t call anything sustainable if it is not affordable to the entire population.

    CM: You’re on Death Row – any requests for your final meal?

    LRK: Can I cook it myself?

    CM: Sure.

    LRK: Can my husband be there?

    CM: Why not?

    LRK: I would have to have my pasta with my tomato sauce; a bottle of Ripasso di Valpolicella quintarelli; a really lovely salad of mâche with Belgian endive and red onion and the oil and vinegar that we like; and an excellently made espresso butter cream and chocolate on a chocolate bouchon.

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    welcoming willow's

    Houston barbecue power couple sets opening date for new East End tavern

    Eric Sandler
    Aug 12, 2026 | 12:20 pm
    Willow's Smokehouse and Tavern Jasmine Barela Willow Villarreal
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Jasmine Barela and Willow Villarreal will open Willow's Smokehouse & Tavern on Thursday, August 13.

    One of this year’s most eagerly anticipated new barbecue joints will make its debut this week. Willow’s Smokehouse & Tavern will open this Thursday, August 13.

    Located next to Eastwood Station at 4109 McKinney, Willow’s Smokehouse is the latest project from pitmaster Willow Villarreal and his partner Jasmine Barela. It’s the culmination of more than a decade in the barbecue business.

    Villareall began his barbecue career with pop-ups at bars such as Grand Prize and Big Star Bar. He worked with Roegels BBQ owner Russell Roegals to operate the barbecue concession at the Typhoon Texas water park before launching a food truck that earned an enthusiastic three-star review from former Houston Chronicle food critic Alison Cook.

    J-Bar-M Barbecue in EaDo recruited the couple to lead its opening team in November 2021 — earning a nomination in the CultureMap Tastemaker Awards for Rising Star Chef of the Year and a glowing review from Texas Monthly barbecue editor Daniel Vaughn — but the couple departed in April 2022 after conflict with the restaurant’s owner.

    Since then, they’ve been working on opening their own restaurant. For the past couple of years, they’ve been transforming a 100-plus year old building into a neighborhood bar and restaurant that will serve Villarreal’s take on modern Central Texas-style barbecue alongside tavern fare such as burgers, smoked-and-fried chicken wings, a fried chicken sandwich, and smoked crab dip.

    “We wanted a bar with really good food and some barbecue on the menu. It has a wood ceiling with that sense of cozyness and warmth,” Barela says about why the couple decided to include “tavern” in the restaurant’s name.

    “We would like to be a place for the neighborhood,” Villarreal adds. “That’s why we have wings and burgers. Barbecue has gotten so expensive. You can get a drink and a bite to eat at an affordable price.”

    Of course, Willow’s wouldn’t fulfill the requirements of being a “smokehouse” with Villarreal’s barbecue. Diners can expect brisket, pork ribs, two kinds of house made sausage, turkey, pulled pork, and smoked chicken. Once things are dialed in, plans call for adding additional sandwiches to the menu.

    “It’s Central Texas barbecue. I don’t feel like I need to change anything,” Villarreal says about the menu. “It’s what we’ve been cooking. It’s what our fans know.”

    Barela is bringing a range of sides, including her signature marinated tomatoes, as well as cole slaw, mac and cheese, cornbread, and potato salad — fear not, her popular cauliflower au gratin will be added in time. Desserts include banana pudding and pies made with an all-butter crust.

    Bartender Zack Palmer (Bad News Bar) created the restaurant’s cocktail menu, including two frozens that are sure to be signatures — the Summer of George, a nod to Barela’s Seinfeld fandom that’s made with Big Red, and the Cabana Boy, an homage to Mountain Dew Baja Blast made with tequila, orange, passion fruit, and bergamot.


    View this post on Instagram
    A post shared by Willow’s Smokehouse & Tavern (@willowssmokehousetavern)


    To preserve the building’s historic feel, the couple sourced most of its furniture second-hand. Barela says she found items on websites such as OfferUp and Facebook Marketplace, while others came from thrift stores, estate sales, and the Round Top Antiques Fair.

    “I wanted to stay true to the character of the building. I didn’t want it to feel too polished,” she says.

    Once seated, diners will find vintage signs on the walls, an Iron Maiden pinball machine for entertainment, and a jukebox that the couple stocked with a range of music, not just Villarreal's heavy metal favorites. While the building has a relatively small footprint, an upstairs dining room and a patio that’s shared with Eastwood Station provide plenty of seating.

    “It feels really good,” Villarreal says about finally opening the restaurant. “It’s also scary. This has to be for the long haul. We really want to be a place for the neighborhood.”

    Willow's Smokehouse and Tavern Jasmine Barela Willow Villarreal

    Photo by Eric Sandler

    Jasmine Barela and Willow Villarreal will open Willow's Smokehouse & Tavern on Thursday, August 13.

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