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    Foodie News

    Don't mess with Texas food: Foodways Texas launches with a hot hootenanny

    Sarah Rufca
    Nov 10, 2010 | 5:07 pm
    • Austin's Band of Heathens got the Armadillo Palace crowd excited —two-stepping
      Photo by Sarah Rufca
    • Haven's Randy Evans, in the background, served his signature shrimp corn dogs.
      Photo by Sarah Rufca
    • The stuffed oysters by Goode Co. were a hot commodity.
      Photo by Sarah Rufca

    It was the perfect setting for the launch of a group dedicated to all things Texan: Saint Arnold's beer on tap, Americana tunes from Band of Heathens and Texas bites by a quintet of local chefs. It all came together Tuesday night at Goode's Armadillo Palace where over 200 supporters gathered to celebrate and raise funds for Foodways Texas.

    Foodways Texas (FTX) was offically founded in July, when 50 Texas food lovers and advocates gathered at Texas A&M, defining their grassroots organization as "dedicated to the preservation, promotion and celebrations of the diverse food cultures of Texas."

    Robb Walsh, one of FTX's 14 directors, said the project has been a long time coming. He began to approach universities about working together on the project three years ago, but it was never able to get it off the ground.

    "What made it happen was that Bryan Caswell and Jim Gossen and some other folks, a lot of them from Houston, became members of the Southern Foodways Alliance. Jim Gossen was donating money to pay for oral histories of shrimpers and fisherman across the Gulf Coast but none of them were from Texas, and he kinda felt like, gosh, I wish we were doing work like this in Texas. And so we decided to try it again," said Walsh.

    Foodways Texas is offically affiliated with the University of Texas' department of community engagement, with Texas A&M's extension service offering to hold symposiums on their campuses and the University of Houston contributing experts in oral and public histories.

    Their first planned event — a symposium on Gulf seafood culture — will take place in Galveston on Feb. 25-26.

    "It will be like a Southern Foodways Alliance symposium, having academic speakers and experts of various subjects come and talk as well as having some famous community seafood events like oyster roasts and shrimp boils as our food events. And A&M-Galveston also has a ship they use as an educational exhibit for marine biology, and it'll be the peak of oyster season so there's a lot going on," said Walsh.

    "We want to do something in the valley about citrus someday, we want to do something about cowboy and cattle ranching.... We've already signed up to do a FTX Texas A&M barbecue summer camp the first weekend of June. People will come from all over the country to take a course with A&M meat scientists on what's really going on with barbecue and anatomy, meat cutting, that sort of thing. We'll show some of our movies about barbecue, hire a barbecue person to talk about regionalism, probably have a barbecue legend like Bryan Bracewell of Southside Market in Elgin or some other member of our organization who's in the barbecue business to come talk to the students about doing barbecue."

    Guests at the launch — including Walsh, Lousiana Foods CEO Jim Gossen, Jenny Wang of Houston Chowhounds, Feast's Richard Knight, L.J. Wiley of Yelapa Playa Mexicana, Lance and Jennifer Gilliam and J.C. Reid — got a taste of what Foodways Texas is all about.

    Reef's Bryan Caswell, Chris Shepherd of Catalan, Haven's Randy Evan and pastry goddess Rebecca Masson joined Goode Co.'s Levi Goode in serving up small bites that reflected Texas traditions and used Texas ingredients. In addition to beer from Saint Arnold's, a refreshing signature cocktail called the Carolina was passed around with Dripping Spring vodka and tons of refreshing grapefruit flavor. The band even took a break for an exclusive preview of "Good, Better, Best," a documentary by Keely Steenson on the making of sorghum syrup.

    But while this was a great party — we actually prefer the term "hootenanny" — the foodies present were serious about the work of Foodways Texas.

    "I think growing up in this region there are a lot of people who share a similar story to mine, grew up going fishing on the coast, going across the border to Mexico and eating all the food that south Texas has to offer, barbecuing and eating all the dishes that really make up texas cuisine, texas food," said Levi Goode.

    "There's a lot of good memories, there's a lot of good times shared experiencing those kinds of food. So it's important that we get behind it and preserve things. As the world continues to change and get more fast-paced, it's important to pay homage to what it's all about and preserve something that so many Texans hold dear. You want to make sure that’s around for your kids and grandkids to experience."

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    Chris Cusack explains

    Houston bar owner speaks out about surprise arrest for health code violations

    Eric Sandler
    May 11, 2026 | 3:50 pm
    Chris Cusack
    Photo by Sergio Trevino
    Chris Cusack owns two locations of Betelgeuse Betelgeuse.

    Certainly one of the most unusual interactions between a restaurant and City of Houston officials took place on Wednesday, May 6 when Betelgeuse Betelgeuse owner Chris Cusack was arrested for health code violations at his location on Washington Avenue.

    News of the arrest spread quickly across social media over the weekend. Now, Cusack is ready to tell his side of the story.

    Cusack, whose time operating restaurants in Houston goes back more than 15 years to Down House and its affiliated restaurants such as Hunky Dory and D&T Drive Inn, tells CultureMap the problem began on Monday, May 4 when a health department inspector came to Betelgeuse Betelgeuse and asked to see the restaurant’s grease trap.

    The only problem is that location has never had a grease trap. Prior to becoming Betelgeuse Betelgeuse, it was Liberty Station, a pioneering bar in Houston’s craft beer and craft cocktail scenes. In the early days, Betelgeuse served food from a food truck. More recently, it prepares its food next door at The Bell and Crane. Cusack acknowledges he didn’t share this information with the inspector.

    “Usually I’m a charmer with the health department, but I was a little defensive. She kept asking me. I said, ‘ma’am, we don’t make food here,’” he explains. “The tone wasn’t my finest moment, but there was no name calling or anything like that. She said, ‘where does the food come from?’ I said, ‘it doesn’t matter where it comes from. It’s produced in a commercial kitchen.’”

    Cusack says he knew there would be a follow up, but he was shocked when the inspector returned two days later with more colleagues from the health department, TABC inspectors, and Houston Police Department officers.

    “I got somewhere between 21 and 25 citations,” Cusack says about the return visit. He got dinged for everything from graffiti in the bathroom to a missing Harris County tax stamp on the photo booth he leases from a vendor (it has both State of Texas and City of Houston stamps, Cusack says).

    One inspector told Cusack he needed a food dealer’s permit. He showed the inspector that a food dealer’s permit had been issued for the restaurant's address under the former food truck’s LLC but not to the LLC that operates Betelgeuse Betelgeuse. Cusack says he had renewed the food truck’s permit in March, but that wasn’t good enough for the inspector. In Cusack’s telling, he was arrested for not having the permit, since it was also flagged as missing in an inspection from October 2025. He's the only person he knows who has ever been arrested for a misdemeanor violation of the health code.

    Cusack says he spent 21 hours in the Harris County Jail. When he got out, he says he was contacted by a more senior official within the Health Department. Once Cusack confirmed he owned both LLCs, he was told he could reopen. Both locations of Betelgeuse Betelgeuse have been operating normally since Friday, May 8.

    Cusack maintains he never knew about the October 2025 inspection, which is why he renewed the food dealer’s permit for the food truck’s LLC rather than applying for one under Betelgeuse Betelgeuse’s LLC. “There’s no paper trail that shows I was given this information,” he says. “I did not get the email [from the Health Department].”

    As for why things got so out of hand, Cusack theorizes he was a victim of Houston Mayor John Whitemire’s crack down on “reckless behavior” on Washington Avenue and stepped up enforcement on bars generally that led to the temporary closure of near northside cocktail bar Rabbit’s Got the Gun.

    Cusack says he’s a “huge supporter” of efforts to reduce crimes like street racing, drug dealing, and sex trafficking along Washington and in its surrounding neighborhoods. Still, he feels targeting by the city for being impolite to a health inspector.

    He plans to fight both the arrest and the citations in court. “I want the charges dropped, and I want it expunged completely from my record. That’s the first thing, and I’m going to try very hard to do it,” he says.

    “That’s going to end up costing thousands of dollars just to deal with the sheer volume,” he adds.

    CultureMap contacted Mayor Whitmire’s office. A representative said the mayor was not aware of the situation and has no comment on an open investigation.

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