On the Mendo

Decadent California-based sandwich shop announces Uptown Park location

Mendocino Farms is on the move. The California-based sandwich restaurant opened its first Houston location in Rice Village back in July, but it has more locations planned for the Bayou City.

After a week's worth of previews and charity events, the restaurant will officially open its second location in Uptown Park on Thursday, October 3. In addition, Mendocino Farms announced it will open a third location in downtown Houston.

Designed by Austin-based architect Michael Hsu, whose recent projects include downtown's Understory food hall and The Original Ninfa's Uptown Houston, the 3,600-square-foot Uptown location takes its inspiration from the northern California coast. The 80-seat interior incorporates farmhouse elements and features a mural dedicated to the purveyors who supply the restaurant.

Slated for a summer 2020 opening, Mendocino Farm's second downtown location will be in Two Allen Center (1200 Smith Street); the first downtown outpost will be in the 609 Main at Texas office tower. The Allen Center campus has been undergoing a comprehensive series of renovations that includes transforming the Doubletree Hotel into the C. Baldwin and the addition of Denver-based steakhouse Guard & Grace.

Both locations will feature Mendocino Farms' menu of decadent sandwiches and elaborate salads. In addition to Mendo staples like the pork belly banh mi and pink lady beets and goat cheese salad, the restaurant's new fall menu includes the Nam’s Schoolhouse Charity Banh Mi, a chicken sandwich that's raising money to build schoolhouses in Vietnam, and the Pachamama Cubano that's made with heritage pork.

Founded by husband-and-wife duo Mario Del Pero and Ellen Chen, Mendocino Farms offers a seasonally-inspired menu that utilizes locally sourced ingredients. In Houston, that includes honey and herb-marinated goat cheese from Pure Luck Dairy (out of Dripping Springs, TX), breads from Slow Dough Bread Co., and sweets from Cake and Bacon. Backed by investment money from Whole Foods and investment firm TPG Growth, the restaurant has grown to more than 25 locations in California.

"Ellen and I are both thrilled and humbled by the overwhelming community response we’ve received in Rice Village,” Del Pero said a statement. "We are eager to continue building relationships in Rice Village while seeing how we can expand our impact and serve our new neighbors in Uptown Park in new and dynamic ways," Chen added.

Nam's Schoolhouse Charity Banh Mi.

Courtesy of Mendocino Farms

Nam's Schoolhouse Charity Banh Mi.

openings news-you-can-eat

firing up Montrose

New Houston seafood restaurant adds live-fire flair to Japanese flavors

Photo by Becca Wright

Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

An ambitious new seafood restaurant is coming to Montrose next week. Casa Kenji will open on Tuesday, December 9.

Located in the former Andiron space (3201 Allen Pkwy), Casa Kenji is the first Houston project for New Orleans restaurateur Malachi DuPre, a former LSU standout who played briefly in the NFL before establishing Kenji and Kenji Kazoku restaurants in New Orleans. Together with former LSU teammate John “B-John” Ballis and Houston chef Bigler “Biggie” Cruz, Casa Kenji will blend Latin and Japanese influences while also incorporating live-fire elements into the restaurant’s dishes. Cruz, whose resume includes a lengthy stint at Uchi as well as working at critically acclaimed Houston seafood restaurant Golfstrømmen, tells CultureMap that Casa Kenji’s approach is the first time he can be himself in the kitchen.

“My perfect restaurant was always based on the live fire and sushi combination,” Cruz says. “My mom cooked with wood for my entire life. The live fire creates completely different flavors. The smoky flavors, the sear from the charcoal — they create a different type of memory for me.”

The use of live fire techniques will permeate Casa Kenji’s menus in ways both big and small. For example, diners will be able to feast on prawns grilled directly on charcoal and served with yuzu chili garlic, or savor lightly seared Japanese wagyu tataki paired with mushrooms. Even raw dishes will benefit from the restaurant’s wood-burning grill and stove.

“Every vegetable we peel, we make into an ash that’s a topping for the dishes. It adds a different layer of flavor,” Cruz says. Look for it in the scallop aguachile, among others.

Even vegetables get a smoky component, as in a cabbage dish that’s braised with dashi and soy sauce before being roasted and served with an onion soubise that Cruz says he developed based on techniques he learned from Golfstrømmen chef Christopher Haatuft.

“It’s rich, super savory, with smoky layers, and you get brightness from the shiso gremolata. I think it will be a signature dish for us,” the chef says.

One change to the interior is the addition of a six-seat omakase counter that looks into the kitchen. Cruz promises those diners will have an even more elevated experience than the restaurant’s regular menu, including ingredients such as Japanese wagyu and premium fish flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market.

Beyond its cuisine, Casa Kenji hopes to stand out with its spacious outdoor patio. Since very few Japanese-inspired restaurants in Houston offer outdoor seating, it should appeal to diners who want a little vitamin D along with their tuna crudo.

“We’re proud to showcase the craft and creativity that defines Casa Kenji,” co-founders Cruz, Ballis, and DuPre said in a statement. “With chef Bigler Cruz at the helm — blending live-fire technique with the discipline of Japanese tradition — we’re equally honored and excited to share a unique concept that is truly rooted in passion, culture, and community.”

Casa Kenji will be open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday beginning at 4 pm. Reservations are available on Resy.

Photo by Becca Wright

Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.