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    Food for Thought

    Food poisoning followed by oysters: A new twist

    Marene Gustin
    Mar 10, 2010 | 9:22 pm

    Last week started with food poisoning and ended with raw oysters.

    You’d think that might be the other way around, but no. The two events are actually unrelated. But I can tell you two things from last week: One, always check the expiration date on those cans in the back of the pantry. And, two, check out the new raw bar at Gravitas.

    It’s not like raw bars are anything new. We’ve been hanging at Pesce’s for years and those braving the I-10 traffic rave about the one at Eddie V’s Prime Seafood in CityCentre since it opened last year. But it’s always nice to have one in the neighborhood.

    “I just wanted to bring some really good quality oysters to Montrose,” chef/owner Scott Tycer says. And he’s got some very nice mollusks to choose from.

    Since bringing chef Ryan Hildebrand on board at his Textile restaurant, Tycer has had more time to spend at Gravitas, fine-tuning the menu and adding some flourishes like the new raw bar. Right now it’s just a temporary bar by the entrance to the main dining room, but Tycer’s in the process of building out a permanent fixture that will offer up delights from the sea weeknights. (Currently the bar is only available Thursday through Saturdays.)

    Raw bar may be a bit of a misnomer as the mounds of ice are topped not only with oysters but also some steamed prawns about the size of those in District 9, plus yummy stone crab claws and mussels.

    But after a week of gelatin and Gatorade, it was the cold, briny oysters that I slurped down with wild abandon, along with a cold vodka martini and plenty of Tycer’s Krafts’men Baking warm bread. It’s a great start to a dinner at Gravitas, a perfect cocktail nosh or a meal unto itself.

    And now — to the oysters: Tycer doesn’t discriminate, unless you count the lack of Gulf Coast bivalves. But the East and West coast varieties are well represented and welcome. First there are the popular Malpeques from Prince Edward Island, light-bodied and clean with just a touch of brine. Then there are the West Coast "lady-sized" Kusshis, grown in floating trays and tumbled into small, compact tasty bites. And don't forget their larger cousins the British Colombia Fanny Bays.

    Coming off a three-day queasiness fest, I tried to restrain myself, but it was the Naked Roy’s Beach oysters that did me in.

    In a good way, that is. I couldn’t get enough of these rich, sweetish oysters named for the Puget Sound stretch of sand where a guy named Roy used to work on his full-body tan.

    There are several sauces offered, but Tycer prefers the mignonette, and I have to agree. A vinegary broth swimming with finely chopped shallots, it’s the perfect drizzle for the cold oysters before you upend the shells into your mouth.

    Yes, there can be a risk to eating raw seafood, but what’s life without a little risk?

    Or life without some cold oysters on the half-shell?

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    What's Eric Eating Episode 584

    Beard Award-winning Latin chef dishes on big Houston move and menu overhaul

    CultureMap Staff
    Sep 11, 2026 | 4:32 pm
    Exilio Latin Flair Douglas Rodriguez
    Courtesy of Exilio Latin Flair
    James Beard Award winner Douglas Rodriguez is the executive chef of Exilio Latin Flair.

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” chef Douglas Rodriguez and Bari Hospitality Group co-owner Pedro Teyuca join CultureMap editor Eric Sandler to discuss Exilio Latin Flair, the company’s pan-Latin restaurant in Montrose.



    Opened in April in the former Verde Garden space, Exilio recently recruited Rodriguez to serve as executive chef and revamp its menu. Known as the “Godfather of Nuevo Latino Cuisine,” the chef brings an impressive resume to his role, including winning Rising Star Chef in the 1996 James Beard Awards, competing on season one of Top Chef Masters, and earning a Recommended designation in the Michelin Guide for Nikos, a Greek restaurant in Durham, NC. As he explains in the episode, he and Bari co-owner Tommy Nally first developed the idea for Exilio when they worked together in Vegas, so he jumped at the opportunity to bring the restaurant to life.

    Rodriguez just rolled out a new menu for Exilio that includes a total revamp of the restaurant’s ceviches and entrees. Specific dishes include tuna watermelon ceviche, mixto seafood ceviche with leche de tigre, Colombian-style chicken empanadas, snapper Veracruz, and a smoked ribeye.

    “The sauce is made with panca peppers (Peruvian red pepper), watermelon juice, yuzu juice. Then it’s slices of tuna and slices of watermelon. I kind of single them,” Rodriguez says about the tuna watermelon ceviche. “The sauce has red onion, Thai basil, tarragon, a herb you don’t usually find in a ceviche. It’s very light, refreshing, herbaceous — hits a lot of different areas in the palate for a simple, two ingredient dish.”

    The chef adds that he’s been getting to know Houston through its restaurants. He cites Mala Sichuan and Hugo’s as two places that have impressed him. He also hails Love Croissants, whose owner, chef Omar Pereney, worked for Rodriguez prior to moving to Houston.

    “I have a long list of places to explore, and I’m excited that this is a big food city,” Rodriguez adds. “I haven’t been to Maximo yet. That’s at the top of my list. I’m excited to be here and get people into the restaurant to try the food.”

    For his part, Teyuca provides an update on Bari’s plans to open a second location in The Woodlands later in September. He also shares exciting news about the company’s plans to add a sushi bar to the lounge above Georgia James, the Montrose steakhouse it purchased from Underbelly Hospitality in 2024.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 8 am on ESPN 97.5.

    Exilio Latin Flair Douglas Rodriguez

    Courtesy of Exilio Latin Flair

    James Beard Award winner Douglas Rodriguez is the executive chef of Exilio Latin Flair.

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