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    Time travel without the DeLorean

    4 hours from Texas to the tip of the tropics & another world: Mexico’s SierraMadre Oriental

    Stephan Lorenz
    Oct 16, 2010 | 4:42 pm
    • Locals offer tours on horseback and guided hikes into the mountains.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • El Cielo Biosphere Reserve protects immense biodiversity, including hundreds ofspecies of butterflies.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • A rusty car door finds use as a garden gate in the village of Alta Cima.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • The obvious “El Elephante," several hours hike from Alta Cima, sits in pristinepine forest.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • The road into the mountains leads through shrubby desert, but soon reaches lushrainforest in the foothills.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • The village of Alta Cima has no electricity.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • The road to Alta Cima is rough in the best places and only serious trucks cantackle the bad sections.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Truck chaises rust in the mountains, remains from the logging era.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Donkeys and goats roam the village and mountains.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • The campground includes an outhouse with a view.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Moisture laden air supports extensive epiphytes, typical of tropical cloudforest.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • The mountains harbor many species of mammals, but most of them are elusive,except this curious gray fox checked us out, before slipping into denseunderbrush.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • The lower slopes of the mountains are covered in dense tropical vegetation,clouds often from in the valleys.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz

    Parrots screeched overhead and dense morning mist rose from the valley below, as the sun lurched over a distant ridge.

    Looking west, all I could see were mountains covered in cloud forest, and, in between, valleys choked in tropical vegetation of every shade of green. There are hidden waterfalls, and extensive strands of primeval forest. Even a few jaguars still prowl the mountains.

    And it was difficult to believe I had only driven four hours south of Texas to get there.

    Where the tropical sidewalk ends

    The northern reaches of the Sierra Madre Oriental in the Mexican state of Tamaulipas represent the tip of the tropics. The highest ridges and peaks are covered in cloud forests of oak and pine, branches are heavy with epiphytes of ferns and orchids, and the river valleys support subtropical rainforest.

    Numerous species of tropical plants and animals reach the northern terminus of their distribution here. You can see parrots — and many tropical bird species — along with other wildlife, including peccaries, mountain lions, ocelots, and jaguars.

    I wouldn’t expect to see the rare spotted cat though. A local who had roamed these mountains his entire life told me he'd seen one once a few years back, but never saw another again.

    The region represents a meeting point of the tropics to the south, and more temperate zones to the north, creating immense biodiversity. The El Cielo Biosphere Reserve protects 356,442 acres of cloud forest, jungles, rivers, and rocky peaks.

    While the majority of the reserve is difficult to access and local guides are necessary to explore some of the trails, the area around the town of Gómez Farías offers easy access and days worth of exploration.

    Getting to town to get out of town

    After the bustle of the Brownsville-Matamoros international border, it pays to stay alert. If it's possible to leave the Matamoros area without getting lost and head south towards Ciudad Victoria, the trip has already been half successful.

    For 260 miles, the highway passes mostly through agricultural lands and winds further past sugarcane plantations, until the first humps of the Sierra Madre Oriental appear in the distant haze.

    Just south of Ciudad Victoria, a turnoff leads up a narrow, winding road into the mountains toward the small village of Gómez Farías. The pavement quickly turns into cobblestones, and, after another mile, into dirt.

    When you hit Gómez Farías, keep going

    Gómez Farías offers modest accommodations and a few eateries. It’s a great place to relax and meet other travelers, as the area is popular with local tourists. But the true mountains are further.

    It was here that we learned from a group of spelunkers that these mountains harbor probably dozens of undiscovered cave systems. I later found out this was true for myself, when I nearly fell into a sinkhole going for a night jungle hike. The opening was several feet across and an indeterminable number of feet deep.

    From Gómez Farías, you can hike into the mountains following the main dirt road, or cutting through spectacular cloud forest along a steep wide trail.

    Either route is strenuous, but offers a great chance to observe the local plants and animals, especially the subtle changes with increasing elevation.

    Up, up, and away!

    We opted to ride in one of the oversized four-wheel jeeps that drive to the higher villages. The track appeared as if construction had hacked the roadbed out of the mountain with dynamite, and then abandoned the project to erosion.

    The vehicle groaned up the slope over huge boulders around tight turns and through monster potholes. Thank goodness for forward motion, because turning around wouldn't have been an option most of the way.

    Let's do the time warp

    The little village of Alta Cima — at the end of the road — appears as if out of another time. It consisted of a grassy clearing cropped close by roaming donkeys and goats, enclosed by rickety fences lie in between stone buildings.

    The mornings in the village are cool and misty, and start with the first vocal chickens. The days warm up pleasantly in the clear mountain air, and the nights are early, as there is no electricity.

    We camped for several nights on Moises Camacho’s property, and he invited us to a simple dinner of chicken and tortillas.

    Over dessert of sweet bread, we talked for a long time of how the area had changed over the years. His grandfather used to sleep in the cornfields to scare off black bears that wandered out of the woods to steal the harvest.

    Nowadays, there's no more logging or agriculture within the reserve, and tourism can be slow, but Moises loves the peaceful lifestyle of the mountains.

    Somewhere out there

    From Alta Cima, a handful of tracks depart towards distant villages and ranches. We spent a day exploring a flat dirt road meandering through open forest of Ponderosa pine.

    Hiking for several hours we reached a rock formation called “El Elephante,” which did not require much imagination. Here, rain and wind had carved the limestone into a life-sized animal, including the trunk, but just missing the ears.

    Retracing our route, we met a young school teacher who educated several children in one of the more remote villages. Every few weeks, he commenced a six-hour commute on foot that ended in Alta Cima, where he crossed through some of the most pristine forest in Mexico.

    False starts and no carts

    On Sunday, we packed our tent and backpacks and headed down to the village square to catch a ride out of town, where a gnarled mandarin tree gave some shade. We watched villagers herd donkeys and horses. All day long.

    After several hours of waiting, it became apparent that no vehicle would come up or go down the mountains that day.

    Moises laughed as we retreated to his yard, unfolded our tent (again), and settled in for another night.

    There are no schedules and no interruptions of modern life in Alta Cima. The nights are quiet, full of stars and dark woods. Occasionally, a dog barks or a donkey may try to break a fence lured by greener grass. But that's about all the disruption you're going to get.

    The next morning, we plopped onto a pile of backpacks in the bed of a large four-wheel truck. Arriving in Gómez Farías after a two rattling hours, we already missed the cool quiet of Alta Cima.

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    news/travel

    Farm to fairground

    Ultimate guide to Texas' top food festivals for summer and fall 2026

    Shilo Urban
    Jun 15, 2026 | 4:00 pm
    Parker County Peach Festival
    Photo courtesy of Parker County Peach Festival
    Everyone eats peaches at Parker County's famous festival.

    Only in Texas can an entire weekend revolve around watermelon seed-spitting, pickle juice drinking, or a championship goat cookoff. Across the state, summer and fall bring a packed calendar of food festivals celebrating everything from peaches and peanuts to black-eyed peas and barbacoa. These beloved events pair hometown traditions with live entertainment, quirky contests, and enough local flavor to fill a cooler.

    Here's a calendar guide to Texas' best food festivals to visit in 2026:

    Parker County Peach Festival
    Photo courtesy of Parker County Peach Festival
    Everyone eats peaches at Parker County's famous festival.

    Luling Watermelon Thump – June 25-28
    Can you hear that thumping sound now? Home of the World Championship Seed-Spitting Contest, this juicy jamboree takes place just east of New Braunfels. Bid on champion-sized melons at the auction, wave hello to the Watermelon Queen, and see adorable tots wheeling in watermelons in wagons for the Lil Growers competition. Texans love our watermelon: You’ll also find the McDade Watermelon Festival (July 11), Hempstead Watermelon Festival (July 17-18), and the Naples Watermelon Festival (July 23-25).

     Luling Watermelon Thump Wave hello to the Watermelon Queen in the big Luling Watermelon Thump.Photo courtesy of Luling Watermelon Thump

    Parker County Peach Festival in Weatherford – July 11
    Stroll around Weatherford’s historic courthouse square and shop for fresh peaches galore from local growers. Browse 200+ arts and crafts vendors and sample treats like fried peach pies, peach ice cream, and peach wine. Slam down your winning tiles at the 42 domino tournament (the national game of Texas) and shop for just-picked peaches. Many people leave with several bushels! Peachapaloozas also erupt at Stonewall’s Peach JAMboree & Rodeo (June 19-21) near Fredericksburg and Fairfield’s Fuzzy Peach Festival (July 17-18).

    Cheeseburger Festival in Friona – July 18
    Just 35 miles from the New Mexico border, Friona is surrounded by cattle ranches, wheat fields, and dairy farms — which provide three of the essential ingredients for cheeseburgers. Saturday, July 18 is the big cookoff, where teams must make 200 cheeseburgers each, and the week leading up to it includes daily diversions like kite flying, archery lessons, Loteria games, and movie nights at the city pool.

    Texas Monthly Taco Fest — July 25
    Now in its second year, the event, which will be held at Discovery Green, includes many of the restaurants named to the magazine's list of the 50 Best Tacos in Texas. Participants include Houston favorites such as the Original Ninfa’s, Cochinita & Co., Maximo, Tacos Frontera, Huncho’s Tacos, and Papalo Taqueria, which ranked No. 7 on the list. In addition, look for Burnt Bean Co., from Seguin, ranked No. 1 on the magazine's top 50 barbecue joints list, and Ana Liz Taqueria, from Mission, the number one taqueria on the 50 Best Tacos list, among a host of others. Tickets are priced at $60 for general admission and $85 for VIP.

    World Championship Goat Cookoff in Brady – September 4-5
    Labor Day weekend brings more than 200 teams of goat chefs to this tiny town that’s smack in the middle of the state. But it’s not just about shining a light on an underappreciated meat; showmanship is also key. Cooking teams try to outdo each other with elaborate themed camps, giving the event a family-reunion-meets-tailgate-party atmosphere.

    Texas Banana Pudding Festival in Slaton – September 5
    The Banana Pudding Capital of Texas is way out west near Lubbock, and every autumn a local bakery hosts a ‘nanner puddin’ blowout in the historic town square. The street festival oozes small-town charm (think vintage tractor displays and pinewood derby races) with fantastic b-pudding flavors like Key lime pie and peanut butter.

    Caldwell Kolache Festival – September 12
    With tens of thousands of kolaches, nonstop polka music, and a parade with colorful folk costumes, this celebration honors Czech culture and heritage. Found close to College Station, Caldwell is called the Czech Capital of Texas, and its signature festival also features the Beseda (the national dance of the Czech Republic) and kolache baking and eating contests.

    In a Pickle Festival in Helotes – September 19
    Does the idea of dogs dressed like pickles tickle your fancy? The pickled pet parade is a highlight of this Hill Country brou-ha-ha, and so is the pickle juice drinking competition. Chug! Chug! Chug! Hungry now? Try pickle pizza, pickle ice cream, and freeze-dried pickles — and if you still haven’t had enough, there’s a second In a Pickle Festival in Mercedes each spring, and Garland hosts its Pickle Party on the Square with a Pickle University every June.

    Bertram Oatmeal Festival – September 26
    Head to this Hill Country hamlet to meet Oatie, the festival mascot (a container of 3-Minute Oats) and his masked arch-nemesis, the Grits Guzzler (a corny cornmeal-pushing villain). Watch their shenanigans unfold down the street before you sign up for silly games like the tortilla toss and cow chip kick. Children can get ooey-gooey searching for prizes in the popular oatmeal dig, a kiddie pool filled with oats.

    Southern Smoke Festival — October 3
    Houston's most star-studded annual food event returns to Discovery Green with almost 100 participating chefs. As always, the roster is headlined by Aaron Franklin, who serves the brisket that made Austin's Franklin Barbecue one of the country's most celebrated restaurants. Other participants include Paul Carmichael, the chef behind the New York Times' no. 1 restaurant Kabawa; Serigne Mbaye, whose New Orleans restaurant Dakar NOLA ranked No. 4 on the new list of North America's 50 Best Restaurants; and the return of pizza master Chris Bianco. Tickets, priced at $225 for general admission and $550 for Lexus VIP, are available now.

    Bertram Oatmeal Festival Meet Oatie, the mascot of the Bertram Oatmeal Festival. Photo courtesy of Bertram Oatmeal Festival

    Floresville Peanut Festival – October 6-10
    The enticing aroma of roasting peanuts fills the air at this South Texas fest, which dates all the way back to 1938. It kicks off with Goober Games for children (like sack races and peanut tossing) and a Kiddie Parade with pint-sized floats. Then the serious fun begins: a grand parade, barbecue cookoff, and washer tournament — plus a panoply of peanutty treats, from old-school peanut brittle to newfangled inventions like fried peanut butter sandwiches.

    Barbacoa and Big Red Festival in San Antonio – October 10-11
    Inspired by a Mexican American weekend lunch ritual, this giant fair celebrates the uber-Texas combo of ice-cold Big Red soda and slow-cooked barbacoa. Thousands of fans flock to the Freeman Coliseum grounds and Expo Hall for this full-blown cultural festival with carnival rides and multiple stages of Tejano and country music.

    Jamburgeree in Athens – October 16-17
    Turtle races? Check. Mooing competition? Check. Hamburger-building contest? Of course! This Piney Woods party is two food festivals in one: the Black-Eyed Pea Jamboree and the Uncle Fletch Hamburger Festival — because Athens is the Black-Eyed Pea Capital of the World AND the Birthplace of the Hamburger. Vegetarians and carnivores can walk hand-in-hand through the food fest and enjoy the eats along with a black-eyed pea spitting contest, a farmer’s market, and a cornhole tournament.

    Seguin Pecan Fest – October 24
    Snap a selfie with the world’s largest pecan in this picturesque town along the Guadalupe River, the Pecan Capital of Texas and one of the state’s leading producers of our favorite nuts. Pecan-themed festivities include a Food Truck Throwdown with pecan-inspired dishes and a Get Crackin’ Contest for masochists who like to shell pecans. Last year’s bash also had llamas.

    Pecan Fest Of course there's a Pecan Fest in Texas.Photo courtesy of Pecan Fest

    Crystal City Spinach Festival – October 29-November 1
    Celebrate Popeye’s favorite food for four whole days in Crystal City, located about 100 miles southwest of San Antonio in Zavala County — Texas’ top spinach-producing county for more than a century. Naturally, there’s a spinach cookoff, as well as a parade, carnival rides, and the crowning of the Spinach Festival Queen. Don’t forget to pay your regards to the statue of Popeye, who popularized spinach during the Great Depression — transforming Crystal City’s economy and spurring the founding of the Spinach Festival in 1936.

    Heritage Syrup Festival – November 14 in Henderson
    Watch ribbon cane syrup as it’s made with antique, mule-powered equipment at this Easy Texas folk life festival. You’ll also see demonstrations of lace making, blacksmithing, rope making, quilting, spinning, and wood carving. Hayrides and square dancing complete the old-fashioned fun.

    Poteet Strawberry Festival – Second weekend of April 2027 (date TBA)
    Last but certainly not least, this massive event near San Antonio attracts over 100,000 fruit fanatics to the Strawberry Capital of Texas every spring. It has it all: fireworks, rodeo thrills, marching bands, carnival rides, and more than a dozen stages of entertainment from folklorico dancers to dueling pianos. But the star of the show is the sweet South Texas strawberry, a ruby-red gem that gets gobbled by the truckload.

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