Time travel without the DeLorean

4 hours from Texas to the tip of the tropics & another world: Mexico’s SierraMadre Oriental

Locals offer tours on horseback and guided hikes into the mountains.
Photo by Stephan Lorenz
El Cielo Biosphere Reserve protects immense biodiversity, including hundreds ofspecies of butterflies.
Photo by Stephan Lorenz
A rusty car door finds use as a garden gate in the village of Alta Cima.
Photo by Stephan Lorenz
The obvious “El Elephante," several hours hike from Alta Cima, sits in pristinepine forest.
Photo by Stephan Lorenz
The road into the mountains leads through shrubby desert, but soon reaches lushrainforest in the foothills.
Photo by Stephan Lorenz
The village of Alta Cima has no electricity.
Photo by Stephan Lorenz
The road to Alta Cima is rough in the best places and only serious trucks cantackle the bad sections.
Photo by Stephan Lorenz
Truck chaises rust in the mountains, remains from the logging era.
Photo by Stephan Lorenz
Donkeys and goats roam the village and mountains.
Photo by Stephan Lorenz
The campground includes an outhouse with a view.
Photo by Stephan Lorenz
Moisture laden air supports extensive epiphytes, typical of tropical cloudforest.
Photo by Stephan Lorenz
The mountains harbor many species of mammals, but most of them are elusive,except this curious gray fox checked us out, before slipping into denseunderbrush.
Photo by Stephan Lorenz
The lower slopes of the mountains are covered in dense tropical vegetation,clouds often from in the valleys.
Photo by Stephan Lorenz

Parrots screeched overhead and dense morning mist rose from the valley below, as the sun lurched over a distant ridge.

Looking west, all I could see were mountains covered in cloud forest, and, in between, valleys choked in tropical vegetation of every shade of green. There are hidden waterfalls, and extensive strands of primeval forest. Even a few jaguars still prowl the mountains.

And it was difficult to believe I had only driven four hours south of Texas to get there.

Where the tropical sidewalk ends

The northern reaches of the Sierra Madre Oriental in the Mexican state of Tamaulipas represent the tip of the tropics. The highest ridges and peaks are covered in cloud forests of oak and pine, branches are heavy with epiphytes of ferns and orchids, and the river valleys support subtropical rainforest.

Numerous species of tropical plants and animals reach the northern terminus of their distribution here. You can see parrots — and many tropical bird species — along with other wildlife, including peccaries, mountain lions, ocelots, and jaguars.

I wouldn’t expect to see the rare spotted cat though. A local who had roamed these mountains his entire life told me he'd seen one once a few years back, but never saw another again.

The region represents a meeting point of the tropics to the south, and more temperate zones to the north, creating immense biodiversity. The El Cielo Biosphere Reserve protects 356,442 acres of cloud forest, jungles, rivers, and rocky peaks.

While the majority of the reserve is difficult to access and local guides are necessary to explore some of the trails, the area around the town of Gómez Farías offers easy access and days worth of exploration.

Getting to town to get out of town

After the bustle of the Brownsville-Matamoros international border, it pays to stay alert. If it's possible to leave the Matamoros area without getting lost and head south towards Ciudad Victoria, the trip has already been half successful.

For 260 miles, the highway passes mostly through agricultural lands and winds further past sugarcane plantations, until the first humps of the Sierra Madre Oriental appear in the distant haze.

Just south of Ciudad Victoria, a turnoff leads up a narrow, winding road into the mountains toward the small village of Gómez Farías. The pavement quickly turns into cobblestones, and, after another mile, into dirt.

When you hit Gómez Farías, keep going

Gómez Farías offers modest accommodations and a few eateries. It’s a great place to relax and meet other travelers, as the area is popular with local tourists. But the true mountains are further.

It was here that we learned from a group of spelunkers that these mountains harbor probably dozens of undiscovered cave systems. I later found out this was true for myself, when I nearly fell into a sinkhole going for a night jungle hike. The opening was several feet across and an indeterminable number of feet deep.

From Gómez Farías, you can hike into the mountains following the main dirt road, or cutting through spectacular cloud forest along a steep wide trail.

Either route is strenuous, but offers a great chance to observe the local plants and animals, especially the subtle changes with increasing elevation.

Up, up, and away!

We opted to ride in one of the oversized four-wheel jeeps that drive to the higher villages. The track appeared as if construction had hacked the roadbed out of the mountain with dynamite, and then abandoned the project to erosion.

The vehicle groaned up the slope over huge boulders around tight turns and through monster potholes. Thank goodness for forward motion, because turning around wouldn't have been an option most of the way.

Let's do the time warp

The little village of Alta Cima — at the end of the road — appears as if out of another time. It consisted of a grassy clearing cropped close by roaming donkeys and goats, enclosed by rickety fences lie in between stone buildings.

The mornings in the village are cool and misty, and start with the first vocal chickens. The days warm up pleasantly in the clear mountain air, and the nights are early, as there is no electricity.

We camped for several nights on Moises Camacho’s property, and he invited us to a simple dinner of chicken and tortillas.

Over dessert of sweet bread, we talked for a long time of how the area had changed over the years. His grandfather used to sleep in the cornfields to scare off black bears that wandered out of the woods to steal the harvest.

Nowadays, there's no more logging or agriculture within the reserve, and tourism can be slow, but Moises loves the peaceful lifestyle of the mountains.

Somewhere out there

From Alta Cima, a handful of tracks depart towards distant villages and ranches. We spent a day exploring a flat dirt road meandering through open forest of Ponderosa pine.

Hiking for several hours we reached a rock formation called “El Elephante,” which did not require much imagination. Here, rain and wind had carved the limestone into a life-sized animal, including the trunk, but just missing the ears.

Retracing our route, we met a young school teacher who educated several children in one of the more remote villages. Every few weeks, he commenced a six-hour commute on foot that ended in Alta Cima, where he crossed through some of the most pristine forest in Mexico.

False starts and no carts

On Sunday, we packed our tent and backpacks and headed down to the village square to catch a ride out of town, where a gnarled mandarin tree gave some shade. We watched villagers herd donkeys and horses. All day long.

After several hours of waiting, it became apparent that no vehicle would come up or go down the mountains that day.

Moises laughed as we retreated to his yard, unfolded our tent (again), and settled in for another night.

There are no schedules and no interruptions of modern life in Alta Cima. The nights are quiet, full of stars and dark woods. Occasionally, a dog barks or a donkey may try to break a fence lured by greener grass. But that's about all the disruption you're going to get.

The next morning, we plopped onto a pile of backpacks in the bed of a large four-wheel truck. Arriving in Gómez Farías after a two rattling hours, we already missed the cool quiet of Alta Cima.

unspecified

where to travel right now

Vonlane rolls out discounted fares + more Texas travel tips for January

Courtesy of Vonlane

undefined

Texas' erratic winter season may have some residents fleeing to warmer parts of the state to experience weekend escapes, vacations, fun-filled events, and much more in January. Houstonians looking for ideas on where to travel can find them here, in our big monthly roundup of top tips around the state.

Throughout Texas & beyond

Two Texas-based premium transportation operators are having January sales:
Vonlane, a luxe bus company with routes across Houston, Dallas, Fort Worth, Austin, and San Antonio, is offering discounts of up to 20 percent off during its winter Vonlane Pass sale all month long. First-time users and seasoned travelers alike can get a $1,500 Vonlane Pass credit for $1,350 (a 10 percent discount), with additional discounts for larger purchases. Pass members will also receive up to four complimentary drinks (with a valid ID) as another perk during their trips. Credits can be purchased by contacting Vonlane Passenger Services.

JSX "hop-on" air carrier is hosting its annual network-wide Red Stripe sale, featuring fares discounted up to 30 percent. The sale will run from January 7-13 on eligible travel dates from January 7-March 12, 2025. Destinations include Las Vegas, Cabo San Lucas, Boca Raton, Salt Lake City, Miami/Opa-Locka, Westchester County, Napa, Los Angeles, Denver, Carlsbad, Oakland, Scottsdale, and more. JSX is a public charter jet service that operates from a private terminal in Houston and allows passengers to check in just 20 minutes before departure.

In Austin

January is the perfect time for reflection and recharging, and there's no better way to kick off 2025 than with a much-needed spa day. W Austin's Away Spa is offering several self-care spa packages for those in need of a New Year reset. The spa's "Shimmer" and "Sparkle" packages include 60-minute massages with a complimentary enhancement, while the "Shine" package includes a luxurious "Rewind" facial, manicure and pedicure, and the "Over the Hills & Far Away" body treatment. All spa offerings include valet parking and access to the hotel's Wet Deck and fitness center. The new spa packages begin at $335, and are available through the end of February.

Award-winning composer Hans Zimmer is bringing his legendary live tour to Austin's Moody Center for a one-night-only show on Friday, Jan. 31. According to a release, the singular Texas show will be one of the last chances to experience Zimmer, his 18-piece live band, and a full orchestra before he debuts an entirely new setlist and production for his future tours. Attendees will hear music from iconic films such as Gladiator, Pirates of the Caribbean, Interstellar, The Lion King, Dune, and many more. The show is nearly sold out, but a limited number of tickets are still available at hanszimmerlive.com.

Hans Zimmer Live The famous composer will put on a spectacular show.Photo by Suzanne Teresa

On Thursday, January 18, charitable organization Sonic Guild will award $150,000 in grants to 20 deserving Austin local bands and solo artists during the Sonic Guild Ball at the Long Center for the Performing Arts. Recipients include Nemegata, Stella and the Very Messed, Rob Baird, and more. But what makes this year's gala so special is that for the first time ever, tickets are available to the public for the ceremony and show. Individual public tickets are available online and run $24-$130.

In Dallas-Fort Worth

There are not one, but two exciting new exhibitions opening concurrently this month at the Arlington Museum of Art. The first, "Wicked Threads: The Artistry of Costume in Oz," will feature original costumes, props, and images from the film that celebrate the artistry of its costume design and the 20+ year history of the beloved Broadway musical. Meanwhile, British royalty enthusiasts won't want to miss "Princess Diana: Accredited Access Exhibition," which will showcase photos of "The People's Princess" that were taken by the late royal photographer Anwar Hussein. The Wicked exhibit will be on display in AMA's community art space (with no tickets required for entry) through April 27, while the Princess Diana exhibit will run through April 6, and is included with regular museum admission ($15 for adults).

The 41st Annual KidFilm Family Festival will take place January 18-19 at the Angelika Film Center Dallas, featuring 12 programs with feature films, short films, and author appearances. The highlight of festival is a screening of The Day the Earth Blew Up: A Looney Tunes Movie, the first fully-animated feature-length film in Looney Tunes history. All programs are free, but tickets are required. Tickets for all shows are available at the theater on the day of show only, beginning one hour before each showtime. The full schedule of KidFilm programs can be found online at usafilmfestival.com. For additional information, call 214-821-3456.

The 2025 Fort Worth Stock Show & Rodeo officially begins Friday, January 17, and CultureMap will be covering all of the rodeo season happenings taking place until February 8. Festivities include everything from acclaimed fashion designer pop-ups to buzzy comedians appearing for the rodeo's Auditorium Entertainment Series. A full schedule and ticketing information is available on fwssr.com.

In San Antonio

The Alamo City's Michelin Key-awarded Hotel Emma and its signature restaurant, Supper, have debuted a new winter menu created by the hotel's new executive chef Geronimo Lopez. The restaurant's rotating steak offerings and fan-favorite dishes will still remain, but chef Lopez has also developed several new options to delight the palette, such as a stuffed quail with dirty rice, chicken liver, and chicken demi-glace; a winter citrus salad with shallot, fennel, tarragon, and olive oil; a short rib grilled cheese with onion jam and gruyère; and more. Reserve on OpenTable.

Supper's new short ribbed grilled cheese at Hotel Emma in San Antonio "Chef Tasting" events will happen at Hotel Emma on Fridays from 5-6 pm with special servings of the seasonal menu.Photo courtesy of Supper at Hotel Emma

At home in Houston

Houston's iconic Montrose neighborhood has gained a new saint: The highly anticipated Hotel Saint Augustine is now accepting reservations for luxurious stays on its beautiful two-acre, five building campus in 2025. More than half of the hotel's 71 rooms are facing the carefully manicured courtyard, while its suites have either balcony or terrace spaces. Plus, the courtyard and Augustine Lounge are open and accessible to the public, so you don’t have to be a guest to show up and hang out. Nightly rates at Hotel Saint Augustine begin at $450 per night.

Broadway lovers in Houston will have plenty of options with three blockbuster musicals making stops in the city, alongside several more classical musicals, plays, a short play festival, and more. Musical theater buffs will enjoy the Houston Grand Opera's production of West Side Story, while Mean Girls superfans can watch Cady, Regina, Gretchen and the rest of the girl gang open their burn book and sing their way to the top of the class at Hobby Center for the Performing Arts.

arlington museum of art jsx princess diana spas staycation texas travel vacations