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    what's eric eating episodes 393 and 394

    Previewing a new Mediterranean restaurant, plus chefs react to Michelin

    CultureMap Staff
    Jul 26, 2024 | 4:55 pm

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” restaurateur Itai Ben Eli and chef Yotam Dolev join CultureMap editor Eric Sandler to discuss Okto, a new Mediterranean restaurant. Scheduled to open in the Montrose Collective mixed-use development as soon as next month, Okto joins sister concepts Hamsa and Doris Metropolitan as part of Sof Hospitality.



    Ben Eli explains that Okto will serve dishes inspired by Mediterranean countries such as Greece and Spain. It will also feature a tightly edited menu of approximately 16 items that will rotate seasonally.

    “The dishes at Okto are going to be more detailed and more layered than the ones we have at Hamsa, which is based more on traditional cooking,” Ben Eli says. “Okto is going to be a little more modern with layers and elevations that we’ll do daily.”

    “The idea is to bring something we think is currently missing,” he adds. “I just spent about 10 days in Madrid with my family. Seeing a lot of classics in Spain and you say, ‘how could we don’t have anything quite like this in Houston?’ We’re bringing vibrant flavors that current chefs are doing in the southern Mediterranean.”

    Dolev adds a few more thoughts. “We’re really trying to change the rules when it comes to the culinary scene and Okto. I just came back from Israel a couple of weeks ago. The scene there is amazing. I thought, I need to bring a touch of this, a touch of Italy, a touch of Greece.”

    Listen to the full episode to hear the duo’s thoughts on the news that the Michelin Guide is coming to Texas. Perhaps they’ll be among the happy hospitality groups when the first Texas star and Bib Gourmand awards are issued later this year.

    Speaking of Michelin, this week’s other episode consists of a free-flowing conversation about the guide that involves three chefs and a Houstonian who’s eaten at starred restaurants around the world. Chefs RJ Yoakum (Georgie in Dallas), Emmanuel Chavez (Tatemó in Houston), and Ryan Lachaine (Riel in Houston) join Sandler and tech entrepreneur Misha Govshteyn to debate how significant the guide’s arrival is in Houston, whether it will change how restaurants operate, and how many Houston restaurants will earn stars.



    Among the more interesting points, Yoakum shares that the opportunity to earn a Michelin star has enabled him to entice talented cooks to follow his path from California to Texas. Chavez adds that Tatemó has already seen more interest in reservations just from media speculation that it could earn a star. Govshteyn takes a more long term view.

    “It’s not about this year. What you’ll see is a big impact in year five. Think about it this way — how many Texas chefs cook at some of the best restaurants around the world but feel like they can’t come back and open a place because they won’t find the support or meet their goals professionally,” he says. “Think about all the chefs who’ve worked for Enrique Olvera at Pujol. They’re not coming back here. When it’s a Michelin market, they will.”

    Yotam Dolev Hamsa
    Photo by Kirsten Gilliam

    Yotam Dolev is one of this week's guests.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 10 am on ESPN 97.5.

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    New Year's greetings

    Chris Shepherd gives thanks for underrated wine and talented Houston doctors

    Chris Shepherd
    Jan 2, 2026 | 1:00 pm
    Sandlands wine bottles
    Photo by Chris Shepherd
    Chris has been enjoying wines from California's Lodi region.

    I know my articles have been a bit scarce these past few months, and I owe you an apology. Life shifted in a big way. In September, my wife Lindsey was diagnosed with breast cancer, and our world narrowed, in the best possible way — to home, health, and the fight in front of us.

    The first and most important thing I’m thankful for is early detection and the city we live in. Having MD Anderson here in Houston is a gift I’ll never take lightly. Lindsey is doing great with treatment. She’s an absolute warrior, and this experience has a way of reframing everything. It forces you to look back, take inventory, and find purpose in both the good and the hard. Today, we’re focusing on the good.

    I love documenting delicious bottles, great bites, and the people we share them with. Every year, I scroll back through my photos to see if my drinking patterns have changed. The answer? A little, but not dramatically. That’s part of what makes wine so fascinating — it’s alive, always evolving, and so are we.

    Chablis and Sangiovese were heavy hitters in 2024 and carried right into 2025. But on the white side, I found myself diving deeper into Aligoté, Burgundy’s other white grape. While Chardonnay is the big dog, Aligoté deserves your attention. Think green apple, citrus, herbal, and floral notes, with bright energy and lift. The real bonus? You can drink Aligoté from top Burgundy producers at a much friendlier price point. It punches well above its weight and belongs on your table.

    I’ve also been blown away by Chardonnay from northern Oregon. Early mistakes with clones led to wines that never quite found balance, but producers committed to getting it right with different clones that did much better in cooler sites, with less oak and shorter barrel time. Barrels should be nurturing vessels, not seasoning agents. Producers like North Valley, Soter, and Alexana are making some of the best Chardonnay I’ve had in years, and I am here for it.

    This past year also brought new adventures, including a month-long stay in Healdsburg, California in July. With a Southern Smoke event and another trip already planned, we packed up the cats, rented a house, and lived somewhere else for a while. It was magical and something I hope we do again.

    While out there, my friend Tegan Passalacqua (Turley Vineyards, Sandlands) invited me to Lodi to taste what’s happening in that region. Lodi has long been known for bulk wine, but the story runs much deeper. Sitting just outside the Sierra Foothills, the region was shaped by massive geological shifts millions of years ago that helped it draw settlers searching for gold in the 1800s. They brought vines with them: Zinfandel, Syrah, and countless lesser-known varieties that are finally getting their moment.

    Zinfandel, genetically linked to Tribidrag (Croatia) and Primitivo (Italy), has been thriving there since the 1850s. After its boom in the early 2000s and an era of ultra-ripe, high-alcohol styles it lost some favor. But tastes change. What’s coming from Lodi’s old vines today is refined, balanced, and beautiful.

    “Think head-trained, dry-farmed, own-rooted vines — some 100 to 150 years old — producing wines that speak clearly of place,” Passalacqua tells me. His Zins sit around 14.5-percent alcohol, elegant and structured, a far cry from the 16-17-percent monsters of decades past.

    One of my newest obsessions is Old Vine Cinsault from the Bechthold Vineyard, planted in 1885. Traditionally a blending grape in southern France, here it shines on its own with bright red fruit and soft tannins — an incredibly crushable wine. If you love lighter Pinot Noir or Gamay, this will make you smile. Look for bottles from Sandlands, Turley, Lorenza, Birichino, and others.

    So here’s the takeaway, like always: break down the walls you’ve been drinking behind. Try something new. Aligoté and Lodi aren’t new but they don’t need to be. They just need people willing to make them cool again. Trust me, they’re delicious and deserving.

    And in the words of the late, great Jerry Garcia:

    Sandlands wine bottles

    Photo by Chris Shepherd

    Chris has been enjoying wines from California's Lodi region.

    Wake up to find out that you are the eyes of the world
    The heart has its beaches, its homeland and thoughts of its own
    Wake now, discover that you are the song that the morning brings
    The heart has its seasons, its evenings and songs of its own

    Happy New Year, team. Never forget to be kind and show love.

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