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    What's Eric Eating Episodes 400 and 401

    Astros star Lance McCullers, Jr. and partners dish on their buzzy cafe

    CultureMap Staff
    Aug 23, 2024 | 7:13 pm
    Maven Coffee Rex Hospitality Juan Carlos Martinez de Aldecoa, Nicolás “Nico” Baizán de Aldecoa, and Lance McCullers, Jr.

    Juan Carlos Martinez de Aldecoa, chef Nicolás “Nico” Baizán de Aldecoa, and Astros pitcher Lance McCullers, Jr.

    Courtesy of Rex Hospitality

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” CultureMap editor Eric Sandler is joined by the three men behind Maven Coffee + Cocktails and Rex Hospitality Group — local entrepreneur Juan Carlos Martinez de Aldecoa, chef Nicolás “Nico” Baizán de Aldecoa, and Astros pitcher Lance McCullers, Jr. — to discuss their growing business. Initially founded as a wholesale business that sells cold brew concentrate to restaurants and bars, Maven now includes a bar at Minute Maid Park, stands at Toyota Center, and a coffee shop and cafe at the Thompson Hotel.



    The conversation begins with McCullers explaining how he began to explore coffee shops nationwide while traveling with the Astros. After meeting de Aldecoa, the two decided to team up to open a coffee shop that leveraged de Aldecoa’s experience in the coffee business via his family’s ownership of Cadeco Industries. They recruited Baizán, a talented chef whose resume includes senior positions working for superstar chef José Andrés.

    All of that experience might seem excessive for a hotel’s coffee shop, but McCullers explains that the group has grand plans. They’ll soon open a restaurant and bar in Sawyer Yards that expands the Maven brand. To further drive that growth, Rex Hospitality recently recruited former Underbelly Hospitality president Nina Quincy to serve as its president.

    Maven Coffee CocktailsMaven serves coffee and cocktails made with coffee.Courtesy of Maven Coffee + Cocktails

    Prior to the interview, Sandler had the opportunity to preview some of the dishes Baizán is developing for the restaurant, including fried chicken livers with caviar, ceviche, and braised pork cheeks. Given the chef’s pedigree working at Michelin-starred restaurants, including Andrés two-star Minibar, Sandler asks if a spot in the famous guidebook is one of the group’s goals for the new restaurant.

    “I think that the Michelin guide, that’s the top. That’s what you strive for. It’s a recognition of hard work [and] excellence. As long as we don’t lose ourselves and lose our consumer and customer-forward mentality, I think we should go for one whether it’s at Maven or a different concept,” McCullers says. “Nico obviously has the skills and the pedigree. For us, it would be more about maintaining our quality-over-anything mantra and our consumer-first mindset. If we can be recognized, why would you not want to do that?”

    Listen to the full interview to hear McCullers provide an update on his future with the Astros, among other topics.



    On this week’s other episode, Sandler and co-host Monica Danna discuss the news of the week. Their topics include Truth BBQ opening in NRG Stadium, Hungry’s opening its new location in the Tanglewood/Briargrove area, and whether they plan to visit the Malibu Barbie Cafe.

    In the restaurants of the week segment, Danna and Sandler discuss their recent meals at two steakhouses. First, they make a long overdue visit to downtown’s Guard & Grace, where they try the signature “Millionaire Fajitas.” Then, they share first impressions of Turner’s Cut, the ultra-luxurious new restaurant from Berg Hospitality.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 10 am on ESPN 97.5.

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    firing up Montrose

    New Houston seafood restaurant adds live-fire flair to Japanese flavors

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 3, 2025 | 10:02 am
    Casa Kenji restaurant
    Photo by Becca Wright
    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    An ambitious new seafood restaurant is coming to Montrose next week. Casa Kenji will open on Tuesday, December 9.

    Located in the former Andiron space (3201 Allen Pkwy), Casa Kenji is the first Houston project for New Orleans restaurateur Malachi DuPre, a former LSU standout who played briefly in the NFL before establishing Kenji and Kenji Kazoku restaurants in New Orleans. Together with former LSU teammate John “B-John” Ballis and Houston chef Bigler “Biggie” Cruz, Casa Kenji will blend Latin and Japanese influences while also incorporating live-fire elements into the restaurant’s dishes. Cruz, whose resume includes a lengthy stint at Uchi as well as working at critically acclaimed Houston seafood restaurant Golfstrømmen, tells CultureMap that Casa Kenji’s approach is the first time he can be himself in the kitchen.

    “My perfect restaurant was always based on the live fire and sushi combination,” Cruz says. “My mom cooked with wood for my entire life. The live fire creates completely different flavors. The smoky flavors, the sear from the charcoal — they create a different type of memory for me.”

    The use of live fire techniques will permeate Casa Kenji’s menus in ways both big and small. For example, diners will be able to feast on prawns grilled directly on charcoal and served with yuzu chili garlic, or savor lightly seared Japanese wagyu tataki paired with mushrooms. Even raw dishes will benefit from the restaurant’s wood-burning grill and stove.

    “Every vegetable we peel, we make into an ash that’s a topping for the dishes. It adds a different layer of flavor,” Cruz says. Look for it in the scallop aguachile, among others.

    Even vegetables get a smoky component, as in a cabbage dish that’s braised with dashi and soy sauce before being roasted and served with an onion soubise that Cruz says he developed based on techniques he learned from Golfstrømmen chef Christopher Haatuft.

    “It’s rich, super savory, with smoky layers, and you get brightness from the shiso gremolata. I think it will be a signature dish for us,” the chef says.

    One change to the interior is the addition of a six-seat omakase counter that looks into the kitchen. Cruz promises those diners will have an even more elevated experience than the restaurant’s regular menu, including ingredients such as Japanese wagyu and premium fish flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market.

    Beyond its cuisine, Casa Kenji hopes to stand out with its spacious outdoor patio. Since very few Japanese-inspired restaurants in Houston offer outdoor seating, it should appeal to diners who want a little vitamin D along with their tuna crudo.

    “We’re proud to showcase the craft and creativity that defines Casa Kenji,” co-founders Cruz, Ballis, and DuPre said in a statement. “With chef Bigler Cruz at the helm — blending live-fire technique with the discipline of Japanese tradition — we’re equally honored and excited to share a unique concept that is truly rooted in passion, culture, and community.”

    Casa Kenji will be open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday beginning at 4 pm. Reservations are available on Resy.

    Casa Kenji restaurant

    Photo by Becca Wright

    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

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