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    Vegging Out

    Who needs turkey? The wonder of an Italian vegan Thanksgiving that's artful chefapproved

    Joel Luks
    Nov 23, 2010 | 11:05 pm
    • Deglazing the pan with a little wine white can excite the pyromaniac, like me.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • The plated dish includes a generous helping of the toasted walnut-roasted redpepper sauce and drizzles of salsa verde.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • A delicious creation, John Watt's technique is easily replicated in the homekitchen.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • Carefully drizzling a little salsa verde, the plate is cleaned and finished withfreshly ground black pepper.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • Roasting a red pepper is the first step in creating a silky toastedwalnut-roasted red pepper sauce.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • Roasting a red pepper does not cook it through. For the toasted walnut-roastedred pepper sauce, the pepper is cleaned, cut and then sauteed with olive oil andgarlic.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • Pan roasting the mushrooms makes this a quick and quite meaty dish. A generoushelping of parsley adds color. As chef Watt says, "This is much better thanturkey." I agree.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • Oyster mushrooms add an earthy and robust element to the melange of wildmushrooms.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • Executive chef John Watt carefully chooses local organic portobello and shiitakemushrooms for his Thanksgiving-inspired dish.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • Although Prego's kitchen is rather cozy, the diversity of dishes including arather large selection of organic and local vegetables.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • Although this step is optional, passing the toasted walnut-roasted red peppersauce through a sieve creates a silky almost mayonnaise-like consistency.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • Chef John Watt teasing me with the finished dish. Can't you tell I was thrilled?

    “To me, this is much better than turkey,” he said. Perfect, I was looking for help with my Thanksgiving menu.

    While politely cutting a manageable morsel and gently shoving it in my mouth, I thought to myself, “I could not agree more.”

    I forcefully nodded in agreement being careful not to speak while chewing. Although I am not fully versed in Southern etiquette, I know enough to recognize when to hold my tongue, which eating utensil to use, and most importantly, when it is appropriate to hold my pinky up proudly.

    The earthy, robust, local and organic portobello, oyster and shiitake mushrooms were transformed into an elegant and flavorful fete-in-my-mouth at the hands of John Watt, executive chef at Prego, one of Houston’s beloved trattorias.

    Facing a silky toasted walnut red pepper sauce and somewhat calculated drizzles of salsa verde, I had to force myself to pay close attention to Watt's cooking technique as my taste buds have the ability to control my wandering attention span: I was eating.

    Or was that the effect of the Pinot that found itself mysteriously next to the plate?

    I had meant for John and I to discuss food. Specifically, I was looking for holiday suggestions from the vegan to the non-vegan and vice-versa. What to serve? How to prepare it? How to present it? And most importantly, will it please my fellow gourmands? But the conversation seemed to roam into another direction: Art, music and just about anything creative.

    I thought I was artsy.

    Chef Watt is no stranger to the art scene. Most recently, an appearance at Mildred’s Umbrella Theater’s gala forced him to break out the guitar, practice for a month and sharpen his singing skills.

    “I played a lot of jazz when I was young,” John reminisced. “I also wrote music for Dracula, read music for the Alley Theatre, but really hadn’t done anything for a couple of years.”

    After finding ourselves discussing the music of Mozart, Stockhausen, Bernstein, Debussy and Rimsky-Korsakov, a little Miles Davis and Grateful Dead tangent sparked a memory of his time working at a music store and meeting Aaron Copland in 1980.

    “Opera is something you can swim into and never swim out,” John laughed.

    He is right.

    At first, I thought this line of conversation was perhaps off topic for the task at hand. But considering the correlation between the love of the arts and the love of all things culinary, this duality emerges often in highly creative personalities. They are not so different.

    “Like art, food takes you to all to all kinds of places,” John explained. “I might have a different relationship with a work of art 10 years from now. You become more discerning and you hone in on different subjects depending on what’s going on in your life.”

    “My cooking philosophy?” John said, repeating my question, “I believe in keeping it simple, keeping the flavors clean, and using primarily high quality ingredients so you don’t have to do too much to them. A little like Mozart.”

    I understood with precise clarity.

    “I am not a fan of food that doesn’t make you feel good,” John explained. “I don’t understand why people dress up and eat food that makes them feel bloated even a week later. Italian food doesn’t have to be heavy to be comforting.”

    Yes, there certainly is a comfort food movement that does just that: heavy, fattening and indulgent. But at Prego, perusing the menu, I notice a wide range choices, including an unusual large selection of veggie pickings.

    “I remember in the '80s when we first started to see radicchio and arugula. Only a small amount would come in yielding just a few salads. Mâche would be available sparingly. I am happy that those ingredients are widely available.”

    Much better than the canned white asparagus that was so popular then.

    
“In Houston, it’s common to have dishes center around a protein, and two sides. A lot of times, the same vegetables are repeated from dish to dish. I wanted more diversity.”

    And local?

    “Houston wants to be locally conscious and we are well on our way. Chefs like Monica Pope and Randy Evans build their whole menu on what is available locally and grown with sustainable methods.”

    All the mushrooms I was in the process of eating, well, devouring, came from Kitchen Pride, an organic mushroom farm in Gonzales, Texas. And I could tell the difference. In handling them, you could feel the crispness and raw goodness from something fresh and perky.

    “It is best to carefully research each ingredient and be knowledgeable of the true footprint," John said. "Although some places will label things as natural, there are some truths that are disguised. You have to make sure you read beyond the marketing materials to ensure you are getting the food whole at its source, and not the accompanying 20 or so chemicals.”

    Chef Watt is currently working on eliminating dairy from some of his vegetarian dishes. Great (quite exquisite actually) Italian good eats and vegan food are not exclusive at Prego.

    “It’s not about preaching what is better or worse," John said. "It is about good food.”

    And good food it was. Simply cooked and beautifully presented.

    From Chef John Watt’s kitchen to your Thanksgiving or holiday table, his pan-roasted organic mushrooms with toasted walnut-roasted red pepper sauce is a welcomed addition to any menu.

    Pan-Roasted Organic Mushrooms with Toasted Walnut-Roasted Red Pepper Sauce

    Serves 4

    • 4-5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided
    • 4 portobello mushrooms, gills removed and cut into halves
    • 16 shiitake mushrooms, tips clipped
    • 16 oyster mushrooms, tips clipped
    • 2 tablespoon finely chopped fresh garlic
    • 1 tablespoon finely chopped Italian parsley
    • 1 teaspoon white wine
    • 1 roasted red pepper, skin and seeds removed
    • 1 tablespoon roasted garlic
    • 1/4 cup toasted walnuts
    • Sea Salt
    • Cracked black pepper

    In saucepan over medium heat, saute mushrooms with 2 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil and diced fresh garlic until cooked yet still firm, approximately 3 minutes. Toss in Italian parsley, and season to taste with sea salt and pepper. Deglaze pan with white wine.

    Toasted Walnut-Roasted Red Pepper Sauce: Puree together roasted red pepper, roasted garlic, toasted walnuts and remaining olive oil. Season with sea salt and pepper. Press through sieve to remove any lumps. Can place in squirt bottle for use and storage.

    Salsa Verde: in a blender, emulsify together 1 tablespoon fresh garlic, 1 cup flat leaf parsley, 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil and sea salt & pepper to taste.

    To serve, divide mushrooms among 4 plates, mounding in center of plate, and drizzle with salsa verde. Drizzle salsa verde on plate around the mushrooms.

    Joel Luks offers vegan recipes, reviews and opinions at www.vegangoodeats.com

    Watch Prego's executive chef John Watt make his dish for Joel Luks' Vegan Good Eats

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    Where to drink now

    CultureMap's 11 favorite new bars that shook up Houston in 2025

    Brianna McClane
    Dec 29, 2025 | 5:15 pm
    Hotel Saint Augustine lobby bar
    Photo by Julie Soefer
    Eclectic vintage finds populate the walk-up bar at Augustine Lounge in Hotel Saint Augustine.

    This was a standout year for new bars in Houston, with elevated cocktail lounges opening alongside neighborhood hangouts. Whether you’re after a cold beer while watching the Texans on a Heights patio or a tiny martini inside an emerald-green, celestial-inspired hideaway near the Galleria, these 11 openings defined Houston’s bar scene in 2025.

    Augustine Lounge
    Hotel Saint Augustine has been racking up awards since it opened — receiving a Michelin Key and best new hotel honors from both Esquire and Travel + Leisure. Its bar, Augustine Lounge, matches that acclaim with a focused drinks program featuring highlights like the Coyote Call, a mix of mezcal, port, and Blackstrap rum accented with raspberry, lime, and nutmeg. The food menu leans elevated but unfussy, with offerings such as a charcuterie board with duck prosciutto and a wagyu hot dog tucked into a brioche bun. It also hosts vinyl nights featuring DJ sets from high profile Houstonians. Augustine Lounge is located at 4110 Loretto Drive and open daily from 11 am-12 am.

    Bar Doko
    Created by Duckstache Hospitality experts (Kokoro, Handies Douzo, Himari, and Aiko) as a companion to its sushi restaurant Doko, Bar Doko has an intimate, 16-seat atmosphere and an extensive selection of Japanese whisky. Small bites shine here, including a masu crudo topped with smoked trout roe and a Jidori egg salad toast. Beverage options range from highballs, martinis, sake, beer, and wine to inventive cocktails like the “Sora” Sky, made with sesame-infused tequila, Maven cold brew, toasted barley, coffee liqueur, and vanilla miso foam. Bar Doko is located at 3737 Cogdell Street, Suite 135, and is open daily from 4 pm-2 am.

    Bar Madonna
    One doesn’t need a room at the Marlene Inn — a grand neoclassical home turned nine-room hotel — to enjoy this elegant watering hole. Bar Madonna takes its name from a striking, 10-foot painting of the Virgin Mary, relocated from an 18th-century Italian church. Leading the beverage program is Tom Hardy, formerly of Hotel Saint Augustine, whose menu balances Old World influence with New Orleans flair.

    This is a seated-only bar, offering 12 interior seats plus additional patio seating, and while reservations aren’t required, they’re often helpful. Signature libations include the Wild Ouest, a tequila-forward blend with poblano, lime, and mezcal inspired by “cowboy boots down the Champs-Élysées.” Bar Madonna is open Monday-Thursday from 3-10 pm, Friday from 3-11 pm, Saturday from 12-11 pm, and Sunday from 12-10 pm.

    Berwick’s Bird of Paradise
    A tropical escape awaits at Berwick’s Bird of Paradise, created by veteran bartender Robin Berwick of Midtown's beloved Double Trouble. The space was fully renovated to invoke a resort bar attached to an imaginary hotel, complete with playful design touches and a mythical “owner” depicted on the wall. Tropical drinks anchor the menu — think spicy, frozen tequila riffs and a coconut-infused Crocodile Tears Martini — alongside a selection of bar bites like smash burgers, chicken wings, and a Bikini sandwich. Known colloquially as "Be Bop," the bar has quickly attracted locals, industry regulars, and neighbors. Open Tuesday-Thursday from 4 pm-12 am, Friday-Saturday from 3 pm-1 am, and Sunday from 2 pm-10 pm, Berwick’s Bird of Paradise is at 2020 Studewood Street.

    Donna’s
    The newest cocktail destination on this list, Donna’s quickly built a following after opening Thanksgiving weekend in the former Ready Room space. Named after the grandmother of co-founder Jacki Schromm, the bar is a collaboration between the veteran bartender and Anvil owner Bobby Heugel. Together, the duo aims to create a house-party atmosphere, with energetic weekends balanced by more laid-back weeknights. A vintage stereo system — complete with a reel-to-reel and a turntable — sets the soundtrack, loud enough to entertain but low enough for conversations. The Jacki’s Martini, a 50-50 mix of gin with Cocchi Americano and Dolin Blanc vermouth, nods to both the “Bobby’s Martini” at Refuge and Squable’s “Terry’s Martini.” Donna's is open daily from 2 pm-2 am at 2626 White Oak Drive.

    Endless Bummer
    Walk the line between Houston and hell at Endless Bummer, the tiki bar next to Beteleguese Beteleguese’s Montrose location. Skeletons, imps, and tiki idols fill the 50-seat space, turning Endless Bummer into an immersive experience displaying works by local artists. The cocktail menu reimagines tropical standards like daiquiris, mai tais, and punches, while originals include the Banana Hammock — a banana-coffee vodka drink — and the Bitter Bird, made with Jamaican rum, Campari, pineapple, yuzu, and strawberry. Located at 4500 Montrose Boulevard, Endless Bummer is open Wednesday-Sunday, from 5 pm-12 am.

    Good God, Nadine’s
    Designed to feel like the home of “everyone’s favorite eccentric aunt,” Good God, Nadine’s delivers a warm, casual atmosphere paired with playful, comfort-forward drinks. The Washington Corridor bar offers 17 beers and wines on tap, along with cocktails like the Mango Sticky Rice, made with vodka, coconut milk, mango, and pandan. Food options range from po' boys to cast-iron cornbread and oysters on the half shell. Patrons can choose between three distinct areas: an indoor bar, an air-conditioned patio, and a garden patio. Good God, Nadine’s sits at 33 Waugh Drive, and is open Tuesday-Saturday from 4 pm-12 am, and Sunday from 12 pm-8 pm.

    The Kid
    With a comfortable bartop, moody-but-visible lighting, and ample seating — The Kid nails the feel of a classic neighborhood hang. Inside, charming baby goat figurines — aka “kids” — peek out from behind chicken wire room dividers, while an astroturfed patio outside offers a prime spot to catch a game. From the team behind Flying Fish, Flying Saucer, and Rodeo Goat, the bar continues the group’s tradition of approachable comfort food, including burgers and loaded tater tots. Drink options include the La Fresita, a refreshing creation of tequila, strawberry, peach, lemon, and prosecco. Happy hour is weekdays from 4 pm-7 pm, with $8 cocktails and wines, plus an all-day happy hour on Tuesdays. Located at 1815 N. Durham Drive, The Kid is open Monday-Thursday, 4 pm-12 am, and Friday and Saturday, 4 pm-2 am.

    Hotel Saint Augustine lobby bar
    Photo by Julie Soefer

    Eclectic vintage finds populate the walk-up bar at Augustine Lounge in Hotel Saint Augustine.

    Moon
    Perched above Tavola, Moon is an elegant cocktail lounge inspired by the cosmos. A joint concept from the Bastion Collection — the hospitality group behind Michelin-starred Le Jardinier at the Museum of Fine Arts, Houston — and Cafe Natalie, Moon’s food options range from a black truffle croque monsieur to the Dark Side of the Moon, a chocolate moelleux with hazelnut crunch. House cocktails like the Nightfall, featuring spiced WhistlePig rye, dark rum, Oloroso sherry, and cherry, sit alongside classics such as French 75s, wines, mocktails, tiny martinis, and shots. For those craving something off-menu, head bartender Joao Diniz is known for crafting bespoke drinks on request. Moon is located at 1800 Post Oak Boulevard, Suite 6110, and is open Tuesday-Thursday from 5 pm-12 am, and Friday and Saturday from 5 pm-2 am.

    Starduster Lounge
    There’s something both nostalgic and timeless about Starduster Lounge, a Heights neighborhood bar that puts a subtle cosmic spin on West Texas style. Will Thomas, co-founder of White Oak Music Hall and owner of Dan Electro’s, teamed up with Benjy Mason of Johnny’s Gold Brick and Winnie’s to transform the nearly 100-year-old building into a charming destination with a rustic yet refined interior of leather, vintage tile, and wood, and a spacious, tree-shaded backyard. The menu is constantly evolving, but standout drinks include the Pecan or Pecan?, with rye, bourbon, and Licor 43. Steak night is on Thursdays, with other food offerings announced via the bar’s Instagram. Happy hour is Monday-Friday, 4 pm-6 pm, with half-off cocktails. Starduster Lounge is located at 3921 N. Main and is open Monday-Friday from 4 pm-2 am, and Saturday and Sunday from 2 pm-2 am.

    CultureMap editor Eric Sandler's Honorable Mention: Montrose Grocer
    Building on her experience as the owner of Avondale Food & Wine and Heights Grocer, Houston entrepreneur Mary Clarkson opened this wine shop next to Catbirds. What distinguishes it from Heights Grocer is that MG also has a carefully-chosen selection of wines by-the-glass and bottle available for drinking on-site. Paired with snacks in the form of sandwiches and charcuterie boards and enhanced by a soundtrack of 4,000 records, Montrose Grocer has become a popular spot with hospitality workers and wine lovers who appreciate its low key atmosphere and affordable prices. (Full disclosure: Clarkson and Sandler are friends. She is a regular contributor to CultureMap's "What's Eric Eating" podcast.)

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