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    Foodie News

    Houston Chef's Table: Kraftsmen Cafe's Scott Tycer hungers for the Taco Nazi'stortillas

    Sarah Rufca
    Nov 22, 2010 | 6:53 am

    No one knows Houston restaurants better than the people who run them, own them, and work in the kitchens. In this continuing series, CultureMap is asking our favorite foodie personalities around town where they go for great eats when they're not working.

    Scott Tycer has been a larger than life presence on the Houston restaurant scene since opening the late, avant garde Aries on Montrose in 2000. In addition to running Gravitas and Kraftsmen Baking, Tycer just opened his latest restaurant, a new Kraftsmen Cafe in the former Textile space in the Heights.

    While on a quick break from his triple duty — a wine-buying excursion — Tycer told CultureMap about his Taco Nazi fave and his brunch strategy (hint: it involves a delicious dumpling overload).

    Restaurant to take out-of-towners to: I hate to sound boring, but Goode Company Barbecue is a lot of fun to bring guests to.

    Restaurant for a special occasion: In the last year I've been to Mark's for a special occasion — he and I go back, and I like to support him. A lot of it is about support.

    Favorite meal: Laredo Taqueria. I get the carne asada with onions and cilantro and lime on cornmeal tortillas — about 50 of them, you can't ever get just one. I've been going for years, since i moved back to Houston, I live in the Heights and they've been there for so long.

    Its kinda a Soup Nazi thing — you know what you want, you have cash and you're good. Kinda Seinfeld-ian.

    Breakfast/Brunch favorite: I like to go to Gigi's for brunch, take the whole family and wipe 'em out on dumplings. And I hit 59 Diner for breakfast frequently.

    Dessert: I like Amy's Ice Cream quite a bit, they have solid recipes, we go and they always are trying new things.

    Other articles in the Houston Chef's Table series:

    Lee Ellis loves Les Givral

    Sugar hooker Rebecca Masson can't get enough of Catalan's Cake

    Beachy L.J. Wiley digs the special occasion simple flavors at Dos Brisas

    David Grossman goes for Vic & Anthony's crab cake, Yelapa late nights & some Bootsie

    Jeramie Robison appreciates Kata Robata's sushi, Beaver's bangin' meatloaf & foodie chicks

    Tony Mandola finds breakfast magic at Sunrise Taquitos

    Philippe Schmit craves a Picnic romance & Stella Sola's French toast

    Benjy Levit is torn between Indika's salads and Hank's Ice Cream

    Flora & Muse's David Luna likes to hang with his fishing buddy and hit the Blue Nile

    Asian Bistro's Gigi Huang seeks out spicy fried chicken at a Dive

    Hugo Ortega believes in a Goode tradition

    Soma Sushi's Jason Hauck is anti-brunch, pro-Feast

    Jenni Tran-Weaver can't get enough hot pot

    Bistro Alex's Juan Carlos Gonzalez finds a great $1.50 meal & giant key lime pie

    Mockingbird Bistro's John Sheely treasures homemade Mexican & cool Connie's Seafood

    Elizabeth Abraham dishes on her secret Royal Restaurant

    Fleming's Jason Cole finds Texas' best barbecue, surf secrets

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    fit to print

    New York Times critic awards Houston restaurant 2 stars in glowing review

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 16, 2025 | 5:15 pm
    Chopnblok food spread
    Courtesy of ChòpnBlọk
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    Let’s just call 2025 the year of ChòpnBlọk. In a review published Tuesday, December 16, the New York Times has awarded the Houston restaurant two stars (“very good”).

    Written by chief restaurant critic Tejal Rao, the review touts many of the same qualities that the Times already praised when it included ChòpnBlọk on its list of America’s 50 best restaurants.

    Rao writes that she usually avoids restaurants that serve food in bowls, but she’s impressed by the way that chef-owner Ope Amosu has put a West African spin on the concept.

    “For inspiration, Ope Amosu looked to the kind of chain restaurants that were built to scale, where flavors are often subdued to appeal to the broadest possible audience, focus-grouped to death. But the delight of ChòpnBlok is in its sure sense of self, its lively, multidimensional cooking and clear, delicious vision for modern food from the Black diaspora,” Rao writes.

    She singles out specific dishes, including the Nigerian red stew with short rib, the Black Star bowl with shrimp, and the signature Motherland, made with chicken, greens, and plantains. “It’s utterly simple, but draws you in for more with the mouthwatering twang of not-too-much MSG — an international shortcut to building umami that tends to be used carefully, and layered with other forms,” she writes.

    The review also touches on the way Amosu switched the restaurant from counter service to full service — described as “warm, informal, and quick with the jokes” — and his time working at Chipotle to learn the basics of the restaurant operations.

    A two-star review is only the latest instance of ChòpnBlọk receiving national attention. In addition to the Times 50 best list, Esquire recently named it one of America’s best new restaurants. The Michelin Guide awarded it a Bib Gourmand designation for 2025. Amosu earned a semifinalist nomination for Best Chef: Texas in the 2025 James Beard Awards.

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