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    Another year, another list

    Breaking down Alison Cook's top 100 restaurants: 2018 list raises many questions

    Eric Sandler
    Sep 28, 2018 | 3:15 pm
    Better Luck Tomorrow interior
    Better Luck Tomorrow landed on two national best lists — but not on Alison Cook's.
    Photo by Jenn Duncan Photography

    Another annual list of Houston’s top 100 restaurants from Chronicle critic Alison Cook means another flood of text messages from friends, readers, and people in the restaurant community who are befuddled by the choices.

    "I'm waiting on your takedown of Alison's list," one person writes. Cook writes, and I react. It’s become as much of an annual ritual as disappointing Texans losses. But just like watching Bill O’Brien mismanage the clock becomes tiresome, bitching about Cook’s picks starts to become redundant.

    Certain aspects of the rankings have become inevitable. We know that a Hugo Ortega restaurant (Xochi, earning the top spot for the second year in a row); a Justin Yu restaurant (Theodore Rex replaces Oxheart); Killen’s Barbecue; Coltivare; Kata Robata; Pondicheri, and BCN will all make the top 10. A few ambitious new openings will show up in the ranked section, which once again constitutes 30 establishments. This year they include downtown French restaurant Lucienne and Nancy's Hustle, the eclectic EaDo restaurant that's been among Houston's hippest spots since it opened in December.

    As one friend noted, it’s like griping about which restaurants do or don’t earn Michelin stars. Houstonians should understand the things that Cook values in restaurants. We’re free to agree or disagree as we see fit. Continuing to complain that the whole list isn't ranked, for example, isn't going to change anything.

    Still, I have questions.

    Does she overvalue French restaurants by ranking four as some of Houston’s 20 best establishments? Has Houston suddenly become a mecca of French cuisine? If so, what happened to Etoile, which has disappeared from the list?

    “Consistency is what matters most to me; it even takes precedence over brilliance,” Cook writes, but how is it possible to evaluate the consistency of Tris, a restaurant that only opened at the beginning of September?

    Should serving brisket enchiladas and fried seafood at dinner elevate Killen’s Barbecue to Houston’s third best restaurant while a whopping eight other barbecue joints — including such luminaries as CorkScrew BBQ and Tejas Chocolates that are rated by Texas Monthly as two of the state’s 10 best — are included in the unranked 70?

    Will she ever explain what happened with her meals at The Pass & Provisions that dropped the restaurant from fourth place in 2017 to 25th in 2018?

    What about Nobie’s, an industry favorite that fell off the list completely? “Not this year, no,” Cook tweets. “Menu did not seem nearly as appealing to me. Not saying it won’t be back.”

    The Chronicle touts that Cook made 400 visits to restaurants for her evaluations. Does she have to visit a restaurant in this calendar year for it to qualify?

    Both Food & Wine and Bon Appetit ranked Better Luck Tomorrow as one of the best new restaurants in the entire country. Cook doesn’t include it on her list. Is a bar not eligible for inclusion no matter how good its food is? If not, why not? Cook routinely used to include food trucks; Bernie's Burger Bus, Good Dog Houston, and Melange Creperie all earned spots on the list before opening their brick and mortar locations.

    Should Houstonians really believe that Katy sushi restaurant Tobiuo is a better restaurant than nationally renowned establishments like Nobu and Roka Akor (the restaurant Tobiuo's chef came from), or does Cook simply prefer locally owned establishments?

    CultureMap contacted Cook's editor, Jody Schmal, for answers to some of these questions. On a macro level, she writes in an email that "the Top 100 list is subjective; the rankings reflect Alison’s own palate and sensibilities, honed over the decades that she has been writing about the Houston dining scene."

    In response to more specific questions, she writes that Tris may be a new restaurant, but it maintains the same personnel and culinary perspective as Hubbell & Hudson Bistro, and "has been consistent — and consistently improving — over the past five years." As for whether the national acclaim for Better Luck Tomorrow means it deserves a spot on Cook's list, Schmal writes that "lists from other media outlets do not affect her decisions."

    Schmal notes that Cook visited 85 of the restaurants on the list at least once in 2018. "The rest appear due to consistent past performance and a revisit within the last two calendar years."

    These sort of details probably only matter to restaurant obsessives. The vast majority of Chronicle readers will glance at the list when it's delivered with their Sunday papers and move on. If they took it more seriously, perhaps Maba Pan-Asian Cuisine wouldn't have shuttered a week before Cook ranked it the city's 10th best restaurant.

    Of course, I am one of those restaurant obsessives. The details matter to me. Cook's list will probably always seem lacking in one area or another. Perhaps I should write my own.

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    What's Eric Eating Episodes 516 and 517

    Food experts draft the best dishes at Vietnamese restaurants in Houston

    CultureMap Staff
    Dec 12, 2025 | 5:15 pm
    Moon Rabbit food spread
    Moon Rabbit/Facebook
    Two panelists selected dishes from Moon Rabbit in the Heights.

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” CultureMap editor Eric Sandler recruited five of his friends and colleagues to select their favorite dishes at Vietnamese restaurants in Houston via a fantasy football-style draft.



    The panelists — Stevie Vu of the Chowdown in Chinatown Facebook group and Asia Society, Texas; Chelsea Thomas of Local Foods Group; Heights Grocer and Montrose Grocer owner Mary Clarkson; Have A Nice Day AAPI pop-up market co-founder Isabel Protomartir; Houston BBQ Festival co-founder Michael Fulmer — joined Sandler to draft Vietnamese dishes and restaurants in six categories. They are:

    • Appetizer/Salad
    • Entree
    • Sandwich
    • Soup
    • Viet-Cajun
    • Wildcard

    In the first round, Vu kicked things off by selecting the sandwiches from Chinatown institution Nguyen Ngo. Thomas followed with the duck salad at Thien An. Clarkson took the mango-papaya salad from Old Saigon Cafe, and Sandler scored the Beef 7 Ways at Chinatown favorite Saigon Pagolac. Protomartir took the Duck House’s crispy egg rolls, and Fulmer closed round one with the beef rolls at Nam Giao, which holds a Bib Gourmand designation in the Michelin Guide.

    Sandler shared the full results on Instagram.


    View this post on Instagram
    A post shared by Eric Sandler (@ericsandler)


    As he noted, the draft results include some of Houston’s most prominent Vietnamese restaurant as well as a few under-the-radar choices that will give listeners some new options to try. Listen to the full episode on any podcast platform to hear the panelists explain the choices and recommend a few places that they could have drafted instead.



    In this week’s second episode, chef Christine Ha and her husband John Suh join Sandler to review the results and pick a winner. Since no one selected their restaurant The Blind Goat, each drafter is on an equal footing.

    Listen to the full episode to hear who won. Ha and Suh also share thoughts on their favorite selections by each panelist. They also catch us up on the latest happenings at both The Blind Goat and Stuffed Belly, their sandwich shop, including the recent addition of a gumbo pot pie to The Blind Goat’s menu.


    View this post on Instagram
    A post shared by The Blind Goat (@theblindgoathtx)


    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 9 am on ESPN 97.5.

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