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    Beaver's Shutters

    Influential Washington Avenue restaurant to shutter amidst major changes

    Eric Sandler
    Aug 28, 2018 | 3:00 pm
    News_Beaver's, interior
    Beaver's is closing.
    Photo by Julie Soefer/Greater Houston Convention and Visitors Bureau

    Reconcepting has become the hottest trend in Houston restaurants. In the next month, two more restaurants will join the growing movement when L’Olivier becomes Avondale Food & Wine and Hubbell & Hudson Bistro becomes Tris.

    While diners have been quick to embrace these changes — consider all the acclaim that’s come Justin Yu’s way for transforming Oxheart into Theodore Rex — restaurateurs would do well to heed Mike Ehrmantraut’s famous advice: No half measures. Making big changes without a name change could lead to confusion from customers who want to know why their favorite dishes have disappeared.

    At least, that appears to be the case with the original location of Beaver’s; the restaurant will permanently close on Saturday, September 1. Once cutting edge — Beaver's is famously the last place Bobby Heugel worked before opening Anvil — the restaurant had become overshadowed by newer restaurants. Sensing the need for a major refresh, co-owner Jon Deal ceded day-to-day control to two of his partners, Axelrad owners Adam Brackman and Jeff Kaplan.

    “Jeff and Adam had been after me to make major changes,” Deal tells CultureMap. “I thought these are younger guys. I thought they had fresher ideas. They’ve done a good job at Axelrad. I thought let’s give them a run.”

    After a six-month closure, the comfort food restaurant reopened with a flourish by bringing back former executive chef Jonathan Jones as an operating partner. Rather than serve a similar menu of Texas comfort food and barbecue like its sibling in Briargrove, Jones blazed a new trail with global flavors and dishes that embraced current trends like the keto diet. Deal says that he initially supported the decision to bring Jones back but questioned the wisdom of taking the menu in a new direction.

    “I thought it was a complete mistake, if they were going to try to carry on the Beaver’s conversation,” Deal says. “I didn’t disagree with some lighter items, but Beaver’s has always been big, heavy, fun food.”

    Deal isn’t the only skeptic. Reviews on social media have been mixed with confusion from diners about the different menus at the different locations.

    After a few months of operating the inbetween concept, Brackman and Kaplan have decided bigger changes are necessary. Together with Beaver’s founder Monica Pope, they’ve decided to redesign the space and give it a new name. Deal and his partner Todd Johnson will keep the Beaver’s name, including its social media accounts, and will operate Beaver’s West independently of their former partners.

    “We want to launch something unique and meaningful,” Brackman says. “Our last day of service will be on Saturday. We’ll take a couple of months while we implement and finalize the plans. We’re going to give the staff a little extra pay and offer them jobs at Axelrad in the interim. They’re all be invited back to the new concept when it opens.”

    Ultimately, Brackman and Kaplan hope to bring some of Axelrad’s vibe to the new concept. Jones, who declined to comment for this article, will maintain his ownership stake and serve as a consultant on the new restaurant.

    “What we like doing is creating fun, playful, urban experience,” Kaplan says. Later, he adds, “We realized it would be an exercise in futility to connect the two concepts. We decided as a group to let that unit be what it wants to be and create a new concept that speaks to the neighborhood and creates some movement for the city.”

    Brackman describes the separation as an “amicable divorce,” and Deal offers a similar assessment. “I want to clarify there’s no partnership dispute here. We’re all in agreement with what needs to happen. We’re longtime partners. There’s no bad blood here,” Deal says.

    While some may be sad to lose the original Beaver’s, the success that Kaplan and Brackman have had with Axelrad demonstrates their ability to show people a good time. If they can bring a little of that vibe to the Old Sixth Ward, they'll have another hit on their hands.

    closings
    news/restaurants-bars

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    firing up Montrose

    New Houston seafood restaurant adds live-fire flair to Japanese flavors

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 3, 2025 | 10:02 am
    Casa Kenji restaurant
    Photo by Becca Wright
    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    An ambitious new seafood restaurant is coming to Montrose next week. Casa Kenji will open on Tuesday, December 9.

    Located in the former Andiron space (3201 Allen Pkwy), Casa Kenji is the first Houston project for New Orleans restaurateur Malachi DuPre, a former LSU standout who played briefly in the NFL before establishing Kenji and Kenji Kazoku restaurants in New Orleans. Together with former LSU teammate John “B-John” Ballis and Houston chef Bigler “Biggie” Cruz, Casa Kenji will blend Latin and Japanese influences while also incorporating live-fire elements into the restaurant’s dishes. Cruz, whose resume includes a lengthy stint at Uchi as well as working at critically acclaimed Houston seafood restaurant Golfstrømmen, tells CultureMap that Casa Kenji’s approach is the first time he can be himself in the kitchen.

    “My perfect restaurant was always based on the live fire and sushi combination,” Cruz says. “My mom cooked with wood for my entire life. The live fire creates completely different flavors. The smoky flavors, the sear from the charcoal — they create a different type of memory for me.”

    The use of live fire techniques will permeate Casa Kenji’s menus in ways both big and small. For example, diners will be able to feast on prawns grilled directly on charcoal and served with yuzu chili garlic, or savor lightly seared Japanese wagyu tataki paired with mushrooms. Even raw dishes will benefit from the restaurant’s wood-burning grill and stove.

    “Every vegetable we peel, we make into an ash that’s a topping for the dishes. It adds a different layer of flavor,” Cruz says. Look for it in the scallop aguachile, among others.

    Even vegetables get a smoky component, as in a cabbage dish that’s braised with dashi and soy sauce before being roasted and served with an onion soubise that Cruz says he developed based on techniques he learned from Golfstrømmen chef Christopher Haatuft.

    “It’s rich, super savory, with smoky layers, and you get brightness from the shiso gremolata. I think it will be a signature dish for us,” the chef says.

    One change to the interior is the addition of a six-seat omakase counter that looks into the kitchen. Cruz promises those diners will have an even more elevated experience than the restaurant’s regular menu, including ingredients such as Japanese wagyu and premium fish flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market.

    Beyond its cuisine, Casa Kenji hopes to stand out with its spacious outdoor patio. Since very few Japanese-inspired restaurants in Houston offer outdoor seating, it should appeal to diners who want a little vitamin D along with their tuna crudo.

    “We’re proud to showcase the craft and creativity that defines Casa Kenji,” co-founders Cruz, Ballis, and DuPre said in a statement. “With chef Bigler Cruz at the helm — blending live-fire technique with the discipline of Japanese tradition — we’re equally honored and excited to share a unique concept that is truly rooted in passion, culture, and community.”

    Casa Kenji will be open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday beginning at 4 pm. Reservations are available on Resy.

    Casa Kenji restaurant

    Photo by Becca Wright

    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

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