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    Beaver's Shutters

    Influential Washington Avenue restaurant to shutter amidst major changes

    Eric Sandler
    Aug 28, 2018 | 3:00 pm
    News_Beaver's, interior
    Beaver's is closing.
    Photo by Julie Soefer/Greater Houston Convention and Visitors Bureau

    Reconcepting has become the hottest trend in Houston restaurants. In the next month, two more restaurants will join the growing movement when L’Olivier becomes Avondale Food & Wine and Hubbell & Hudson Bistro becomes Tris.

    While diners have been quick to embrace these changes — consider all the acclaim that’s come Justin Yu’s way for transforming Oxheart into Theodore Rex — restaurateurs would do well to heed Mike Ehrmantraut’s famous advice: No half measures. Making big changes without a name change could lead to confusion from customers who want to know why their favorite dishes have disappeared.

    At least, that appears to be the case with the original location of Beaver’s; the restaurant will permanently close on Saturday, September 1. Once cutting edge — Beaver's is famously the last place Bobby Heugel worked before opening Anvil — the restaurant had become overshadowed by newer restaurants. Sensing the need for a major refresh, co-owner Jon Deal ceded day-to-day control to two of his partners, Axelrad owners Adam Brackman and Jeff Kaplan.

    “Jeff and Adam had been after me to make major changes,” Deal tells CultureMap. “I thought these are younger guys. I thought they had fresher ideas. They’ve done a good job at Axelrad. I thought let’s give them a run.”

    After a six-month closure, the comfort food restaurant reopened with a flourish by bringing back former executive chef Jonathan Jones as an operating partner. Rather than serve a similar menu of Texas comfort food and barbecue like its sibling in Briargrove, Jones blazed a new trail with global flavors and dishes that embraced current trends like the keto diet. Deal says that he initially supported the decision to bring Jones back but questioned the wisdom of taking the menu in a new direction.

    “I thought it was a complete mistake, if they were going to try to carry on the Beaver’s conversation,” Deal says. “I didn’t disagree with some lighter items, but Beaver’s has always been big, heavy, fun food.”

    Deal isn’t the only skeptic. Reviews on social media have been mixed with confusion from diners about the different menus at the different locations.

    After a few months of operating the inbetween concept, Brackman and Kaplan have decided bigger changes are necessary. Together with Beaver’s founder Monica Pope, they’ve decided to redesign the space and give it a new name. Deal and his partner Todd Johnson will keep the Beaver’s name, including its social media accounts, and will operate Beaver’s West independently of their former partners.

    “We want to launch something unique and meaningful,” Brackman says. “Our last day of service will be on Saturday. We’ll take a couple of months while we implement and finalize the plans. We’re going to give the staff a little extra pay and offer them jobs at Axelrad in the interim. They’re all be invited back to the new concept when it opens.”

    Ultimately, Brackman and Kaplan hope to bring some of Axelrad’s vibe to the new concept. Jones, who declined to comment for this article, will maintain his ownership stake and serve as a consultant on the new restaurant.

    “What we like doing is creating fun, playful, urban experience,” Kaplan says. Later, he adds, “We realized it would be an exercise in futility to connect the two concepts. We decided as a group to let that unit be what it wants to be and create a new concept that speaks to the neighborhood and creates some movement for the city.”

    Brackman describes the separation as an “amicable divorce,” and Deal offers a similar assessment. “I want to clarify there’s no partnership dispute here. We’re all in agreement with what needs to happen. We’re longtime partners. There’s no bad blood here,” Deal says.

    While some may be sad to lose the original Beaver’s, the success that Kaplan and Brackman have had with Axelrad demonstrates their ability to show people a good time. If they can bring a little of that vibe to the Old Sixth Ward, they'll have another hit on their hands.

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    fit to print

    New York Times critic awards Houston restaurant 2 stars in glowing review

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 16, 2025 | 5:15 pm
    Chopnblok food spread
    Courtesy of ChòpnBlọk
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    Let’s just call 2025 the year of ChòpnBlọk. In a review published Tuesday, December 16, the New York Times has awarded the Houston restaurant two stars (“very good”).

    Written by chief restaurant critic Tejal Rao, the review touts many of the same qualities that the Times already praised when it included ChòpnBlọk on its list of America’s 50 best restaurants.

    Rao writes that she usually avoids restaurants that serve food in bowls, but she’s impressed by the way that chef-owner Ope Amosu has put a West African spin on the concept.

    “For inspiration, Ope Amosu looked to the kind of chain restaurants that were built to scale, where flavors are often subdued to appeal to the broadest possible audience, focus-grouped to death. But the delight of ChòpnBlok is in its sure sense of self, its lively, multidimensional cooking and clear, delicious vision for modern food from the Black diaspora,” Rao writes.

    She singles out specific dishes, including the Nigerian red stew with short rib, the Black Star bowl with shrimp, and the signature Motherland, made with chicken, greens, and plantains. “It’s utterly simple, but draws you in for more with the mouthwatering twang of not-too-much MSG — an international shortcut to building umami that tends to be used carefully, and layered with other forms,” she writes.

    The review also touches on the way Amosu switched the restaurant from counter service to full service — described as “warm, informal, and quick with the jokes” — and his time working at Chipotle to learn the basics of the restaurant operations.

    A two-star review is only the latest instance of ChòpnBlọk receiving national attention. In addition to the Times 50 best list, Esquire recently named it one of America’s best new restaurants. The Michelin Guide awarded it a Bib Gourmand designation for 2025. Amosu earned a semifinalist nomination for Best Chef: Texas in the 2025 James Beard Awards.

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