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    Food for Thought

    Can Brio Tuscan Grille make waves in Houston's perfect storm of great Italianrestaurants?

    Marene Gustin
    Aug 20, 2012 | 10:58 am
    • Brio changed the layout of the former Pesce location to a wide-open Tuscanrestaurant with different areas separated by arches and draping.
      Photo by Jill Hunter
    • Lamb chops are a Brio speciality
      Photo by Jill Hunter
    • Within sight of the new Brio is the original Carrabba's Italian Grille.
      Photo by Shannon O'Hara/Greater Houston Convention and Visitors Bureau
    • Among competitors in the Upper Kirby cooridor is Giacomo's.
      Photo by Karen Burd
    • Alto pizzaria is a hop, skip and jump away.
      Alto Pizzeria/Facebook
    • Tony Vallone’s eponymous swanky eatery just down the road in Greenway Plaza isthe godfather of Italian food in Houston.
      Photo by Julie Soefer/Greater Houston Convention and Visitors Bureau

    Like so many foodies, I was sad when Pesce closed, even though, like so many, I really hadn’t been there in awhile.

    But I was kinda skeptical when I heard that a national Italian chain, based in Ohio no less, Brio Tuscan Grille, was moving into the space in the Centre at River Oaks. Face it; the corner of Kirby Drive and West Alabama Street is smack dab in the middle of the perfect storm of great Italian eateries in Houston. It’s within minutes, if not spitting distance, from some of the finest pasta palaces in Houston, if not the country.

    I will say that walking into Brio was kinda nice. They’ve changed the whole layout to a wide-open Tuscan restaurant with different areas separated by arches and draping. Not bad, not bad.

    There are more than 300 Italian restaurants in Houston, and most of the locally owned, chef-driven ones are inside the loop.

    But then the food started coming.

    I watched my dining companion closely as she ate and repeated my question of whether or not this was a good location for Brio. (See paragraph two above.)

    She (with slight eye roll): "Not everyone is a foodie."

    Me: "Are you telling me you can’t taste the difference?"

    She: "Is it the best Italian food I’ve ever had? No. Is it good and am I going to eat it all? Yes."

    Me: "But wouldn’t you rather be at…"

    She (curtly): "Not everyone can afford to eat at Tony’s."

    Tony Vallone’s eponymous swanky eatery just down the road in Greenway Plaza is the godfather of Italian food in Houston, one of the oldest and surely the most elegant and service-oriented places to eat. Everyone, and I mean everyone should experience this bastion of fine dining at least once. Esquire Magazine food critic John Mariani has called it not only one of the best Italian restaurants in the county but one of the best restaurants period. And the Houston Chronicle’s Alison Cook recently restored it to its four-star status.

    And sure, if you’re ordering the Osetra caviar service as an appetizer you are going to get a huge bill at the end of the meal. But on the other hand there’s always a three-course Greenway Express lunch for about 20 bucks. It’s a great way to sample the wonderful food and soak in the rarefied atmosphere. Most working folks could brown bag PB&J’s for a week and then splurge on that kinda lunch at least once a month.

    “This is a great location,” says Erica Gibson. “Opportunity came and this location fell into our hands. So why would we not snap it up?”

    And there are Marco Wiles’s restaurants. Zagat and USA Today recently named Da Marco one of the nation’s top Italian restaurants with a score of 29 out of 30. And their lunch menu is only slightly higher priced than Brio’s.

    And I could go on. There are more than 300 Italian restaurants in Houston, and most of the locally owned, chef-driven ones are inside the loop. Swing a dead cat from the new Brio and you’ll hit Giacomo’s Cibo e Vino.

    She: "People still don’t know about Giacomo’s."

    Me: "Obviously they aren’t reading CultureMap."

    She: "Sigh."

    “It’s true, a lot of people still don’t know I’m here,” says chef/owner Lynette Hawkins who ran the famous fine-dining La Mora for years before taking a sabbatical and then opening Giacomo’s two-plus years ago. “And don’t forget that chef-driven, quality ingredient places are competing for about 10 percent of the dining population. The rest of the people eat at chains. They eat at Olive Gardens.”

    But why if they can eat better for only slightly more money?

    “And don’t forget that chef-driven, quality ingredient places are competing for about 10 percent of the dining population. The rest of the people eat at chains. They eat at Olive Gardens.”

    Dining companion (becoming bored with the conversation): "Because they don’t know or they just don’t care. They’ve eaten at chains all their lives and that’s just what they are used to. That’s what they want. I know a lot of people with good jobs living right down the street at West Ave and I bet they will come here a lot."

    If I lived at West Ave I’d just walk up stairs to celebrity chef Robert Del Grande’s Alto Pizzeria. Best pizzas I’ve had. Which is why I haven’t tried the pastas yet, can’t get past that triple meat pizza. And I have to drive there because I don’t live in West Ave.

    I also have to drive, but not very far, to get to the romantic Antica Osteria in Rice Village, Arcodoro Ristorante Italiano and Vallone’s Ciao Bello in the Galleria area, oh let’s not forget Coppa Ristorante Italiano in the Heights and Wiles’s Dolce Vita on the Westheimer curve, which I hear is about to reopen after that fire.

    Oh, and let’s not forget Carrabba’s Italian Grill. No, not the franchises around the country. I mean the one within sight of the new Brio. The original on Kirby that is still owned and operated by founder Johnny Carrabba. The one that’s about to move into a brand new building with a new, upscale Italian eatery by Carrabba right next door.

    Someone commented that if Brio thought it was going to compete with Johnny Carrabba, they might think again. Carrabba, Mandola and, of course, Vallone, are names that have been around for years if not decades. Names that inspire fierce loyalty in Houstonians.

    So, we’ll see what happens in the race for dining dollars in the hub of Houston Italian food.

    I could be wrong to worry about Brio. I’m sure they didn’t make this expansion lightly, I’m sure they did the market research. And maybe the general manager has the right idea: A high tide floats all boats.

    “This is a great location,” says Erica Gibson. “All the restaurants here are successful and there are a lot of young people moving here now. Opportunity came and this location fell into our hands. So why would we not snap it up?”

    OK Brio, welcome to da ‘hood. And good luck.

    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    what's next for Paulie's

    Exclusive: Houston restaurateur brings two new Italian spots to Montrose

    Eric Sandler
    Feb 9, 2026 | 9:16 am
    Casa Carlo Michael Hoffman Davide De Angelis Charles Clark
    Photo courtesy of Brasserie 19
    Michael Hoffman, Davide De Angelis, and Charles Clark are partnering on Carlo and Casa Carlo.

    A veteran Houston restaurateur has claimed a prime Montrose location for two new establishments. Brasserie 19 owner Charles Clark will expand his portfolio with two Italian restaurants, a fast casual eatery, called Carlo, and a fine dining concept called Casa Carlo.

    Clark has leased the former Paulie’s and Camerata space at 1834 Westheimer and 1830 Westheimer, respectively, to bring Carlo and Casa Carlo to life. If all goes to plan, the restaurants will open in May, with casual Carlo open for lunch and dinner daily and Casa Carlo serving dinner — with lunch to follow once it’s settled in.

    Clark is partnering with two chefs he’s worked with and mentored for many years. Former Coppa executive chef Davide De Angelis will serve as executive chef for both Carlo and Casa Carlo, while Brasserie 19 executive chef Michael Hoffman will serve as a culinary director, with responsibilities at all three restaurants. Clark tells CultureMap he’d been looking for three years or so to find the right opportunity to partner with the two chefs.

    “Let’s have a restaurant where they can both have ownership without having to put up any money. It’s harder to open a restaurant than it was 15 years ago. It’s just expensive. It’s $1,000 a foot to build one. It used to be $400,” Clark says.

    “These guys are super talented. Davide is an immigrant from Naples, Italy. He started washing dishes in New Braunfels. Worked his way up to line cook. I brought him in as a line cook at Coppa. He became executive chef, running 5-600 covers a night.”

    “I still can’t believe that Charles believed in me and was so generous in giving me this incredible opportunity,” De Angelis tells CultureMap. “Without him, I wouldn’t be in this position — after all these years working for him, since he brought me into the company in 2017.”

    Similarly, Hoffman worked alongside Clark at Ibiza, his Spanish-inspired restaurant that closed in early 2020 after an almost 20-year run. Since then, Hoffman has led the kitchen at Brasserie 19, allowing Clark, 64, to step into a restaurateur role of overseeing the River Oaks staple’s lively dining room.

    Carlo and Casa Carlo

    Turning to the restaurants, Clark explains that Carlo will be a lot like Paulie’s, a fast casual, neighborhood-oriented Italian restaurant serving classics such as chicken parmesan, freshly made pasta, and pizza. Critically, he expects to keep the pricing similar to the famously affordable Paulie’s, which closed in December after 27 years.

    “I don’t want to alienate the Montrose crowd. I’m not going to double the prices and make it somewhere they don’t feel comfortable,” Clark says. “Hopefully, when they read about it and see the chefs are guys who’ve worked their way up, they’ll accept it more. It’s not going to be me. I’m going to be here [at Brasserie 19].”

    With a full-time chef in the kitchen, Clark says he expects the plating at Carlo to be a little more elevated. “Paulie’s was good, but I’m going to make it more chef-driven, where you can see the pastas are put together well,” he explains.

    “With Carlo we see it as an all-day restaurant where you can walk up and order from an array of classic pastas, sandwiches, and salads,” Hoffman adds. “Definitely see it as a place to serve the neighborhood, where you can get a quality, comforting meal without breaking the bank.”

    In addition to keeping Paulie’s moderate prices, Clark says he intends to preserve the restaurant’s open kitchen. Like Paulie’s, Carlo will serve cookies and other baked goods for dessert.

    Casa Carlo will be a more elevated, white tablecloth restaurant in the model of acclaimed New York establishments such as Cipriani, Carbone, Torrisi, and Don Angie, with a menu that takes inspiration from both De Angelis’ and Hoffman’s Italian heritage. That same standard will also apply to the service in the form of tableside preparations and a lengthy wine list.

    “We’d also like to include some seafood dishes inspired by Naples, where I was born, and dishes my mom used to make for me when I was a kid — like peperoni arrostiti stuffed with sausage and beef served with bagna cauda,” De Angelis says.

    “The recent field trip to New York was great to see the different avenues a modern Italian restaurant can be,” Hoffman adds.

    In terms of design, Clark says he’s inspired by restaurants such as The Polo Bar in New York. Plans call for an elegant bar and leather banquettes.

    Both restaurants will offer the same kind of customer-first service that’s the standard at Brasserie 19.

    “I think with both places we have to recognize what got us here,” Hoffman says. “Charles has always set the example of what happens when you create a space where the customer is welcomed and at ease and then receives a quality product.”

    B19 Update

    It’s been about four years since Clark and Grant Cooper ended their partnership in Clark Cooper Concepts. Clark became the owner of Brasserie 19, while Cooper created the Big Vibe Group that owns Flora Mexican Kitchen and Coppa Osteria.

    The River Oaks restaurant is flying higher than ever. Last year, Clark says he upgraded the restrooms and spent about $250,000 on Brasserie 19’s new patio. This year, he plans to invest in new dining room chairs and more comfortable banquettes.

    “We’re having record months. I had the busiest December I’ve ever had. I did $1.2 million in sales,” Clark says. Later, he adds, “I want to make it a classic restaurant like Galatoire’s in New Orleans where it’s kind of an institution.”

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