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    A chef for Rosalie

    Rising star chef picked to lead kitchen at eagerly anticipated downtown Houston restaurant

    Eric Sandler
    Jul 30, 2019 | 3:55 pm

    By any measure, Rosalie Italian Soul is one of Houston's most exciting upcoming restaurants. Set to open in September in downtown's C. Baldwin Hotel, San Francisco-based chef Chris Cosentino and business partner Oliver Wharton will serve rustic, Italian-American fare at the restaurant that's inspired by the dishes prepared by the restaurant's namesake, Cosentino's great-grandmother.

    Such a personal project requires a deft hand in the kitchen. While Cosentino vows to be a regular presence, he also owns Cockscomb in San Francisco and Jackrabbit in Portland, OR, which means finding someone the Top Chef Masters winner could trust to execute his vision. Towards that end, he's hired chef Sasha Grumman to work as Rosalie's executive chef.

    "Sasha worked with me when we opened Cockscomb restaurant five years ago," Cosentino says in an interview that will be heard in full in an upcoming episode of "What's Eric Eating," CultureMap's weekly podcast. "Super, super strong, talented young lady who I've had the opportunity to work with in the past, who knows me. Who knows the style in which I like to cook, but at the same time she has a really strong palate, a strong vision, and can execute like nobody's business. I'm really excited to have her on board."

    In addition to her work at Cockscomb, Grumman's extensive resume includes lots of Italian experience, includng Delfina (San Francisco) and Union (Los Angeles). Most recently, she spent the last year working as chef de cuisine at Austin's acclaimed Launderette restaurant.

    "This is an opportunity for both of us," Grumman said in a statement. "Since we’ve worked together before, I know how he manages people. The best foundation to a relationship is trust, and he trusts me to execute his vision for this restaurant.”

    Cosentino and Wharton have made other key hires, too. Charlie Skipsey will be the hotel's director of restaurants. A restaurant industry veteran with over 20 years of experience, Skipsey briefly worked as food and beverage director at the Hotel Icon in downtown Houston several years ago, but the bulk of his experience is in the Bay Area, Spain, Austin.

    "The opportunity to work closely with my longtime friend Oliver Wharton and his partner Chef Cosentino was the main influencing factor,” Skipsey said. “Plus, I lived in Houston nine years ago, but only got to enjoy it for a brief period of time. I’m planning on being here long-term, and I see it as an opportunity to develop new friendships and create something great in this dynamic city."

    Finally, Annie Balest will serve as Rosalie's general manager. Best known locally for her work at Vallone's and as general manager of Tony's, Balest and Wharton worked together during the opening of Jaleo, celebrity chef Jose Andres' restaurant on the Las Vegas strip.

    Executive chef Sasha Grumman and chef-owner Chris Cosentino.

    Rosalie Italian Soul Sasha Grumman Chris Cosentino
    Photo by Nuray Taylor
    Executive chef Sasha Grumman and chef-owner Chris Cosentino.
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    firing up Montrose

    New Houston seafood restaurant adds live-fire flair to Japanese flavors

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 3, 2025 | 10:02 am
    Casa Kenji restaurant
    Photo by Becca Wright
    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    An ambitious new seafood restaurant is coming to Montrose next week. Casa Kenji will open on Tuesday, December 9.

    Located in the former Andiron space (3201 Allen Pkwy), Casa Kenji is the first Houston project for New Orleans restaurateur Malachi DuPre, a former LSU standout who played briefly in the NFL before establishing Kenji and Kenji Kazoku restaurants in New Orleans. Together with former LSU teammate John “B-John” Ballis and Houston chef Bigler “Biggie” Cruz, Casa Kenji will blend Latin and Japanese influences while also incorporating live-fire elements into the restaurant’s dishes. Cruz, whose resume includes a lengthy stint at Uchi as well as working at critically acclaimed Houston seafood restaurant Golfstrømmen, tells CultureMap that Casa Kenji’s approach is the first time he can be himself in the kitchen.

    “My perfect restaurant was always based on the live fire and sushi combination,” Cruz says. “My mom cooked with wood for my entire life. The live fire creates completely different flavors. The smoky flavors, the sear from the charcoal — they create a different type of memory for me.”

    The use of live fire techniques will permeate Casa Kenji’s menus in ways both big and small. For example, diners will be able to feast on prawns grilled directly on charcoal and served with yuzu chili garlic, or savor lightly seared Japanese wagyu tataki paired with mushrooms. Even raw dishes will benefit from the restaurant’s wood-burning grill and stove.

    “Every vegetable we peel, we make into an ash that’s a topping for the dishes. It adds a different layer of flavor,” Cruz says. Look for it in the scallop aguachile, among others.

    Even vegetables get a smoky component, as in a cabbage dish that’s braised with dashi and soy sauce before being roasted and served with an onion soubise that Cruz says he developed based on techniques he learned from Golfstrømmen chef Christopher Haatuft.

    “It’s rich, super savory, with smoky layers, and you get brightness from the shiso gremolata. I think it will be a signature dish for us,” the chef says.

    One change to the interior is the addition of a six-seat omakase counter that looks into the kitchen. Cruz promises those diners will have an even more elevated experience than the restaurant’s regular menu, including ingredients such as Japanese wagyu and premium fish flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market.

    Beyond its cuisine, Casa Kenji hopes to stand out with its spacious outdoor patio. Since very few Japanese-inspired restaurants in Houston offer outdoor seating, it should appeal to diners who want a little vitamin D along with their tuna crudo.

    “We’re proud to showcase the craft and creativity that defines Casa Kenji,” co-founders Cruz, Ballis, and DuPre said in a statement. “With chef Bigler Cruz at the helm — blending live-fire technique with the discipline of Japanese tradition — we’re equally honored and excited to share a unique concept that is truly rooted in passion, culture, and community.”

    Casa Kenji will be open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday beginning at 4 pm. Reservations are available on Resy.

    Casa Kenji restaurant

    Photo by Becca Wright

    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

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