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    Houston Restaurant Dilemma

    Is the Houston restaurant scene too successful for its own good? Squeezed out little guys raise concern

    Marene Gustin
    Marene Gustin
    Jul 16, 2013 | 12:43 pm

    The July trip to Highland Village is turning into an expensive annual ritual. But a tasty one.

    Last July, in the midst of Houston heat, a move to a new condo and a major freelance project, my computer died. After a frantic phone call to my IT guy, I rushed the sad Mac to the Apple Store in Highland Village.

    I love that place. All the light, the cool gadgets and friendly staff. I wish everywhere I shop had more staff than customers, all asking to help you and whipping out their iPhones to get your products delivered right to your hand — and out the door you go. Only last year those friendly techies told me that my laptop was fried. Oh, they could fix it but it would take about three days.

    Why do so many fancy chain steakhouses have two names anyway? Smith & Wollensky, Vic & Anthony’s, McCormick and Schmick's?

    As the panic attack escalated (I didn’t have three days, I was on a huge deadline), I started to hyperventilate and wound up buying a new MacBook Air. At that point I needed to de-stress fast. I needed a glass of wine . . .

    And there, right across the street from the Apple Store’s gleaming glass wall, was Smith & Wollensky.

    I didn’t walk, I ran across the street, clutching my new computer, slid into a booth in the bar and ordered wine and a steak.

    I hadn’t been there in years, and never for lunch wearing shorts and flip-flops, but it was all good. In fact, it was just what I needed.

    This July, it was a much nicer trip to Highland Village. I had finally persuaded Dad to get an iPad. He had an old PC laptop that was acting up and neither I nor my IT guy could do anything. We Mac people are clueless when it comes to the other side.

    So, he tries out the iPad, loves it, buys it, asks where I want to eat lunch. Duh.

    Issues In Paradise

    So, another July trip to Apple paradise and a wonderful steak lunch. A bottle of Santa Margherita’s Pinot Grigio, those hot pull-apart rolls dusted with sea salt and smothered in butter and the beef tenderloin duo (which we split) two medallions of meat, one Cajun seasoned and one topped with gorgonzola. And fries. Good times.

    Now let’s just say that a trip to Apple followed by lunch at a high-end steak joint is not for the faint of heart when it comes to the bottom line. July is turning out to be a very expensive month (and that’s not counting the utility bill).

    But I don’t mind paying out the nose once in a while for a fine meal, which is what you get at Smith & Wollensky. Why do so many fancy chain steakhouses have two names anyway? Smith & Wollensky, Vic & Anthony’s, McCormick and Schmick's? But I digress.

    I don’t really like chain restaurants (despite a guilty pleasure for Whataburger, but hey, that is Texas). And I can’t imagine why anyone would chose to eat at a chain when they could eat at a locally, chef-driven eatery where the produce is locally sourced and fresh.

    I’ve heard a rumor that the old Ninfa’s locale at Kirby Drive and Richmond Avenue is leasing for $60,000 a month. A. Month.

    Those are the restaurants that have made Houston a hot culinary destination the likes of which national magazines are raving about.

    But steakhouses seem to be the exception to this rule. (And the exception to that rule would be Pearland’s Killen’s Steakhouse.)

    But it is interesting to see more and more national chains, some with mediocre fare, moving inside the Loop, where Houston’s local chefs have put our culinary scene on the national map.

    The only problem with this is that the chains are driving up the rents. In a recent CultureMap article about the closing of Taco Milagro, one of the owners put it succinctly.

    “A lot has happened to Kirby in the past decade,” Candice Schiller said. “It has become a street of upscale restaurants; most of them well financed multi-unit groups. Our little counter service taco shop can't pay those kinds of rents.”

    It wasn’t so much the food I liked at Taco Milagro, but the patio. But I do miss the other two Schiller Del Grande restaurants that also departed that corner area, Ava and Alto.

    I’ve heard a rumor that the old Ninfa’s locale at Kirby Drive and Richmond Avenue is leasing for $60,000 a month. A. Month. Although, hopefully, that space is going to a fabulous local restaurant.

    But it does make you wonder if the city’s culinary scene might be so successful that it is taking a toll.

    A steak — and some lobster — is great at Smith & Wollensky.

    Smith & Wollensky Houston steak lobster
    Smith & Wollensky Houston Facebook
    A steak — and some lobster — is great at Smith & Wollensky.
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    news/restaurants-bars

    Wine Guy Wednesday

    Chris Shepherd breaks bread with chefs and musicians at new conversation series

    Chris Shepherd
    Feb 25, 2026 | 2:00 pm
    Chris Shepherd headshot
    Photo by Tiffany Hofeldt
    Chris Shepherd will host three Breaking Bread conversations.

    I wanted to tell you about something new that I have coming up that we have been working on. I am starting a new conversation series called “Breaking Bread” which is going to be part of the Live at the Founder’s Club series at the Hobby Center.

    Why “Breaking Bread?” I have always said that breaking bread at the table is one of the last true forms of building community. When I had restaurants, I would serve whole loaves of bread uncut and have people break them together to join a communal dining experience where they could have conversations — a breaking of awkward silence if you didn’t know people.

    Breaking bread opens the door for talking and learning over a meal and to build a community that might not have existed before. It is the ice breaker for a lot of people to learn about each other and break down walls and barriers that we have unintentionally put up because of fear of the unknown. It’s not just a saying but a way of thinking that has shifted my life to want to learn about people.

    Through this new Breaking Bread conversation series, I will share the stories of people I look up to and ask them to tell stories they haven’t told before about what led them here to this moment on stage with me.

    Moving this series to Founders Club at the Hobby Center is even more special for me since I’ve had such a great time working with the team to update the food and drink menus so guests can have a really wonderful experience from the time they arrive. We have worked to redo the food menu to make it fun and approachable with items like Full Tilt hot dogs, braised beef birria taquitos, coffee roasted beets, and Altima Caviar with sour cream & onion Pringles just to name a few.

    The wine list is filled with delicious things that I just want to drink all the time. Pierre Gimonnet 1er cru Blanc de Blanc Brut, yep. Marine Layer Vermentino, The Hilt Estate Chardonnay, Robert Sinskey Vin Gris of Pinot Noir, also yes! Want more? North Valley Vineyards Pinot Noir, Produttori Del Barbaresco Barbaresco, and Cruse Wine Co. Monkey Jacket Red Blend are all available, just to name a few.

    Then the cocktails are based on the classics. This is what we should have when we go out to our theaters downtown — delicious things to eat and drink while watching amazing shows!

    I have the opportunity to have personal conversations with my friends, who also happen to be incredible artists and even better people.

    Here is a quick look at the lineup from the Hobby Center:

    “Breaking Bread” 2026 Conversation Series

    Bun B: Wednesday, April 8, 7:30pm
    Grammy-nominated American rapper and Houston legend Bun B sits down with Chris for an unfiltered conversation on music, culture, and a career that keeps reinventing itself. From pioneering rapper to Rice University professor and trusted civic voice, Bun B will reflect on the moments that shaped him. The two will also get into his jump into the restaurant world and how Trill Burgers became a citywide obsession, plus his move into podcasting and storytelling — and what it means to build a legacy that stretches far beyond the mic.

    Joe Kwon: Saturday, May 16, 7:30pm
    Known to many as the cellist of The Avett Brothers, Joe Kwon joins Chris for a thoughtful, wide-ranging conversation about curiosity, craft, and creativity. Born in South Korea and raised in High Point, North Carolina, the self-described foodie shares his roots on stages around the world as they explore his path from lifelong musician — with a detour through computer science — to artist, wine enthusiast, and collaborator, reflecting on how discipline and instinct shape everything he pursues, from music to food. It’s a behind-the-scenes look at how passions evolve, how ideas connect across worlds, and why a melody or a shared meal can mean more than the moment itself.

    A Michelin Roundtable with Felipe Riccio, Emmanuel Chavez, and Mayank Istwal: Saturday, June 13, 7:30pm
    Three of Houston’s Michelin-starred chefs — Emmanuel Chavez (Tatemó), Felipe Riccio (March), and Mayank Istwal (Musaafer) — join Chris for an honest, wide-ranging conversation about what a star really means for their kitchens and their teams. They’ll debate whether rankings push the industry forward or hold it back, reflect on the turning points that shaped their paths, and share the lessons behind becoming some of the city’s most celebrated chefs. It’s a rare behind-the-scenes look at success, pressure, creativity, and what it takes to build something that lasts.

    ----

    Send Chris an email at chris@chrisshepherd.is.

    Chris Shepherd won a James Beard Award for Best Chef: Southwest in 2014. The Southern Smoke Foundation, a nonprofit he co-founded with his wife Lindsey Brown, has distributed more than $15 million to hospitality workers in crisis through its Emergency Relief Fund. Catch his TV show, Eat Like a Local, every Saturday at 10 am on KPRC Channel 2 or on YouTube.

    Chris Shepherd headshot

    Photo by Tiffany Hofeldt

    Chris Shepherd will host three Breaking Bread conversations.

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    news/restaurants-bars

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