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    What's Eric Eating Episode 101

    Uncorking EaDo's new wine bar, plus first taste of a fresh River Oaks seafood spot

    CultureMap Staff
    Jul 4, 2019 | 12:00 pm

    On this week's episode of "What's Eric Eating," Mike Sammons joins CultureMap food editor Eric Sandler to discuss How to Survive on Land and Sea, the new wine bar he's opening later this summer in the East End. As one of the founders of Midtown staples 13 Celsius and Mongoose versus Cobra, Sammons has built a devoted following among local wine and spirits enthusiasts.

    Sammons has been fairly tight-lipped about his new project, but he's ready to share some details. How to Survive will resemble 13 Celsius to a certain extent in that it will serve wine, beer, and cider both for on-premises and to-go, but the service aspect will be diminished. Sammons cites his inspiration from both the vinotecas of Tuscany and the casual taverns of Eastern Austria known as Heuriger.

    In that spirit, patrons will need to walk up to the central bar to purchase wines by-the-glass or bottle, rather than receiving full service as they do at 13 Celsius. In exchange for accepting less service, Sammons will be able to keep his prices lower; most of the bottles will cost less than $50.

    Asked to elaborate a little on his overall philosophy, Sammons provides an expansive answer.

    When we opened 13, wine was intimidating. A lot of people didn't really know what to order, how to order, or even what they liked. If a sommelier in a restaurant explained that they would love this Burgundy, they did, because they assumed it was good. But things have changed drastically in this town over the last decade. People do know what they're doing. You've got to give people credit now. You can't just put a 50-page wine list and expect them to be intimidated into buying the most expensive thing on the menu.

    What I want to do is embrace the fact that era is over. You have 22-year-olds looking through your wine list and selecting great value wines, because they know what they're doing. They know what areas of the world to look at for the best deal. Nobody wants to spend $400 on a bottle of wine all the time. I know I don't. I think it's a little insane to do so when there's so much available for $50 or under. What it takes is someone to say I know enough about wine culture to know where to find the best value for the buck. That's really the focus of this wine program.

    The conversation touches on a number of other topics, including How to Survive's beer program and what sort of food it will serve. Sammons also reveals plans to open a small pasta restaurant in an adjacent space but declines to provide details like the name or who the chef will be. Consider that TBA.

    Prior to Sammons joining the show, Sandler and Avondale Food & Wine owner Mary Clarkson discuss the news of the week. Their topics include Bar 5015 closing to become a new project from the owners of the Turkey Leg Hut, downtown food hall Understory beginning its soft opening, and Gelazzi suddenly closing in The Heights.

    Keeping the news section short allows them to dive into the restaurants of the week. The hosts discuss their recent meals at two restaurants that have opened recently in River Oaks District: MAD, the new Spanish restaurant from BCN chef Luis Roger and owner Ignacio Torras, and Loch Bar, the casual seafood tavern from Baltimore's Atlas Restaurant Group.

    ---

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Google Play, or Spotify. Listen to it Saturday at 3 pm on ESPN 97.5.

    The hosts praise the seafood at Loch Bar.

    Loch Bar spread
    Courtesy of Atlas Restaurants
    The hosts praise the seafood at Loch Bar.
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    Coming soon to Fredericksburg

    Houston restaurant vet serves up Roman-style eatery in the Hill Country

    Brandon Watson
    Dec 26, 2025 | 3:30 pm
    Bottega Salaria Fredericksburg
    Photo courtesy of Bottega Salaria
    Valerio Lombardozzi is opening Bottega Salaria in the former home of La Bergerie.

    Valerio Lombardozzi’s culinary career has taken him to the world’s finest kitchens, including restaurants owned by icons like Alain Ducasse, Giorgio Locatelli, and Joël Robuchon. In Houston, he led La Table and Tavola, where he earned a reputation for being one of the city's most engaging front of the house personalities.

    But his latest project might be his biggest accomplishment yet. The hospitality veteran is opening Bottega Salaria, a homey Italian osteria and artisan market, in the former home of La Bergerie at 312 E Austin St in his adopted home of Fredericksburg.

    Lombardozzi says the restaurant, expected to arrive in winter 2026, fills a gap in the Hill Country dining scene, but, more importantly, it's a reflection of his personal history and time spent working at his family’s restaurant in Rome.

    “[It’s about] where I grew up, how I grew up, and how I eat,” he shares.

    The three-concept experience is inspired by Italy’s Via Salaria, the ancient route Italians used to transport salt from the Adriatic Sea to Rome. The menu acts as a sort of travelogue, borrowing from the different cultures along the road, and the way village fishermen and shepherds ate.

    Lombardozzi is quick to say he didn’t want to open a chef-driven restaurant. Instead, the osteria will serve traditional Roman staples such as cacio e pepe, amatriciana, carbonara, saltimbocca with sage and prosciutto, and branzino carved tableside.

    “I was one of the last to be exposed to the old generation of professionals who knew how to carve elegantly for the guests,” he says.

    The adjacent bottega will stay open during restaurant hours, offering fresh pasta made on-site, house-made sauces, imported Italian pantry items, cheeses, salumi, breads, and biscotti. Patrons will be able to shop for individual items or put together custom gift baskets.

    Outdoors, La Fraschetteria will debut a new hospitality experience in the U.S. The self-guided experience invites diners to grab wine directly from garden shelves, gather a spread of meats, cheeses, bread, or pasta, and linger around long communal tables lit by string lights.

    Keeping the chit-chat going will be a thoughtful beverage program anchored by a primarily Italian wine list and imported beer. Lombardozzi says the cocktail menu might be a surprise, offering only gin and tonics, spritzes, and negronis. The latter has been made into a game where diners roll dice to determine the evening's combination of gin, vermouth, and bitters.

    After dinner, guests can select an amaro from a rolling cart, sip grappa and limoncello, or sip a neat whiskey.

    Lombardozzi shares that he wants Bottega Salaria to be just as comfortable for Fredericksburg locals as it is for destination travelers. Beyond daily service, Bottega Salaria plans community events such as garden wine nights with live music, Sunday movie nights, and hands-on cooking classes.

    The space is designed for ease with a warm palette combining olive green and pomegranate reds. The decor blends heritage and modernity, bringing in objects like antique mirrors, plates, custom-made lamps, and even old tablecloths and curtains for an Old World feel.

    "We’re not just opening a restaurant,” Lombardozzi says. “We’re creating a gathering place. A home for everyone who loves Italian food, culture, and the joy of sharing a meal with others.”

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