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    See You in court

    No Ninfa's for Uptown Park? Landlord scuttles deal, lawsuit alleges

    Eric Sandler
    May 22, 2017 | 12:14 pm
    Ninfa's has been prevented from expanding to Uptown Park, a lawsuit alleges. This photo is of the original location on Navigation.

    During last week’s episode of CultureMap’s “What’s Eric Eating” podcast, Legacy Restaurants CEO Jonathan Horowitz acknowledged that the company is still looking to open additional locations of The Original Ninfa’s on Navigation, including a deal that fell through “in the general vicinity” of the Gow Media office near The Galleria (Gow is the parent company of CultureMap).

    Asked specifically about “a recently-closed Tex-Mex restaurant in Uptown Park,” meaning Anejo, the upscale Tex-Mex restaurant that closed in April, Horowitz replied, “There’s probably a story there somewhere which I’m sure somebody’s going to figure out. That’s not the one I think we’re going to get, but we’ll see.”

    The story Horowitz alluded to appears to be told in court documents filed by Anejo Uptown Park, LLC in a lawsuit against its former landlords, AmREIT Uptown Park, LP and Edens Limited Partnership. According to the plaintiff’s original petition filed in April, Anejo and Legacy Restaurants had reached a deal to bring Ninfa’s to Uptown Park via a lease assignment.

    According to the document, Legacy agreed to pay Anejo $1 million to assume its lease, which would allow the company to open a new restaurant called “The Original Ninfa’s at Uptown Park” in the space previously occupied by Anejo.

    That Legacy and Anejo reached a deal shouldn’t come as a surprise. Prior to becoming Legacy’s CEO, Horowitz worked for Anejo’s parent company, Lasco Enterprises, in a variety of roles including marketing director. He maintains a financial interest in that company, which operates restaurants including Max’s Wine Dive and The Tasting Room.

    The only problem is that the property’s landlord, AmREIT Uptown Park, LP, which is owned by Edens Limited Partnership, wouldn’t consent to the assignment. Anejo alleges in its document that the landlord told Anejo that it wouldn’t allow Ninfa’s to assume the lease, because it didn’t consider the restaurant to be sufficiently upscale for the ritzy shopping center. After a series of negotiations and a detailed proposal by Ninfa’s that addressed some of those concerns, the landlord agreed to allow the assignment if Ninfa’s met certain conditions, according to the document:

    Following the meeting, on March 27th, Landlord sent its final communications to Anejo offering to consent to the assignment as long as (a) the menu Legacy previously proposed to Landlord became an attachment to the assignment document (an implicit concession Landlord now approved of the ‘upscale’ quality and pricing of the menu), (b) Legacy kept the interior design as is or otherwise approved by the Landlord, (c) Legacy used a tradename that does not contain the word ‘Ninfa’s,’ and (d) Legacy provide an 18-month rolling guarantee for the new legal entity.

    Ultimately, Anejo asserts that these conditions, including forbidding Ninfa’s to utilize the brand equity of its name, hid AmREIT and Edens' true motivation, which was to sign a new lease at current market rates. Anejo’s lease, which it had assumed from Arturo’s Uptown Italiano in 2015, only charged $46 per square foot with two five-year renewal terms for $50 and $58 per square foot that would have kept the restaurant in the space through 2030. Current rates are much higher: $65 to $80, according to Anejo’s pleading.

    Anejo's argument is that, by refusing to consent to the assignment, AmREIT and Edens denied the restaurant the ability to secure the $1 million payment from Ninfa's that it deserved. Instead, the landlord simply allowed Anejo to close so that it could find a new tenant at the much higher current lease rate, which would net the company far more revenue for the same space.

    CultureMap has contacted Edens through the representative listed on its website about these allegations and will update this article when it responds.

    Ultimately, a judge and jury could eventually end up assessing the merit of Anejo’s allegations. Until then, it's an interesting "what if" in the ongoing saga of Houston restaurants.

    podcastsnews-you-can-eattex-mex
    news/restaurants-bars

    firing up Montrose

    New Houston seafood restaurant adds live-fire flair to Japanese flavors

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 3, 2025 | 10:02 am
    Casa Kenji restaurant
    Photo by Becca Wright
    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    An ambitious new seafood restaurant is coming to Montrose next week. Casa Kenji will open on Tuesday, December 9.

    Located in the former Andiron space (3201 Allen Pkwy), Casa Kenji is the first Houston project for New Orleans restaurateur Malachi DuPre, a former LSU standout who played briefly in the NFL before establishing Kenji and Kenji Kazoku restaurants in New Orleans. Together with former LSU teammate John “B-John” Ballis and Houston chef Bigler “Biggie” Cruz, Casa Kenji will blend Latin and Japanese influences while also incorporating live-fire elements into the restaurant’s dishes. Cruz, whose resume includes a lengthy stint at Uchi as well as working at critically acclaimed Houston seafood restaurant Golfstrømmen, tells CultureMap that Casa Kenji’s approach is the first time he can be himself in the kitchen.

    “My perfect restaurant was always based on the live fire and sushi combination,” Cruz says. “My mom cooked with wood for my entire life. The live fire creates completely different flavors. The smoky flavors, the sear from the charcoal — they create a different type of memory for me.”

    The use of live fire techniques will permeate Casa Kenji’s menus in ways both big and small. For example, diners will be able to feast on prawns grilled directly on charcoal and served with yuzu chili garlic, or savor lightly seared Japanese wagyu tataki paired with mushrooms. Even raw dishes will benefit from the restaurant’s wood-burning grill and stove.

    “Every vegetable we peel, we make into an ash that’s a topping for the dishes. It adds a different layer of flavor,” Cruz says. Look for it in the scallop aguachile, among others.

    Even vegetables get a smoky component, as in a cabbage dish that’s braised with dashi and soy sauce before being roasted and served with an onion soubise that Cruz says he developed based on techniques he learned from Golfstrømmen chef Christopher Haatuft.

    “It’s rich, super savory, with smoky layers, and you get brightness from the shiso gremolata. I think it will be a signature dish for us,” the chef says.

    One change to the interior is the addition of a six-seat omakase counter that looks into the kitchen. Cruz promises those diners will have an even more elevated experience than the restaurant’s regular menu, including ingredients such as Japanese wagyu and premium fish flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market.

    Beyond its cuisine, Casa Kenji hopes to stand out with its spacious outdoor patio. Since very few Japanese-inspired restaurants in Houston offer outdoor seating, it should appeal to diners who want a little vitamin D along with their tuna crudo.

    “We’re proud to showcase the craft and creativity that defines Casa Kenji,” co-founders Cruz, Ballis, and DuPre said in a statement. “With chef Bigler Cruz at the helm — blending live-fire technique with the discipline of Japanese tradition — we’re equally honored and excited to share a unique concept that is truly rooted in passion, culture, and community.”

    Casa Kenji will be open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday beginning at 4 pm. Reservations are available on Resy.

    Casa Kenji restaurant

    Photo by Becca Wright

    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    news/restaurants-bars

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