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    Waiter Wars

    Waiter Wars: Server shortage has Houston restaurants scrambling for good help as pros jump around

    Marene Gustin
    May 8, 2015 | 10:30 am

    There’s a plethora of places to eat getting ready to open right now, from Grant Cooper Concepts' SaltAir Seafood Kitchen to Hunky Dory, and most of them have hung out “Now Hiring” signs.

    “With new restaurants sprouting up everywhere it's making it very laborious to find trained front-of-house staff, we started investing much more of our resources into training,” says Brennan’s of Houston’s general manager Carl Walker. “For example, we equip management with the tools to fast-track the growth needed to meet our service demands.”

    "Some people think this is a job for unskilled labor but that’s not true."

    And lots of other restaurants are feeling the pinch.

    El Real Tex-Mex Cafe’s Frank Flaig, who bears the impressive title of senior dining room manager —which basically means he does everything, admits it’s getting harder to hire.

    “We’re looking!” he exclaims. “Yes, it’s getting harder with all the new places opening. Some people think this is a job for unskilled labor but that’s not true. A good restaurant requires front-of-house staff with a very definite set of skills: they have to be people-friendly and be able to cope with stress. You really have to find the right fit for your team. Everyone has to get along and work well together and hopefully inspire the other staff to be better.”

    Highly professional

    Houston’s waiter culture is highly professional. Sure, fast food joints and some national chains hire college kids and out-of-work actors, but for the longtime beloved local like Johnny Carrabba’s eateries, Tony’s and even Molina’s Cantinas, the waitstaff make good money and tend to support their families and spend years, if not decades, with their employers.

    “But with so many new restaurants opening and closing, if you’ve only been with a restaurant a short time, and a new place that looks better and looks like it will last more than a few months opens, you’ll make the jump.”

    "But with so many new restaurants opening and closing, if you’ve only been with a restaurant a short time, and a new place that looks better and looks like it will last more than a few months opens, you’ll make the jump,” says one experienced waiter at a major establishment.

    Lori Farris, co-owner with her chef/husband Efisio of Arcodoro, a Sardinian restaurant in the Galleria area also echoes the current plight of finding good front-of-house staff.

    “It is very hard to find quality personnel that are hospitality professionals,” she says. “There are a lot of new restaurants opening in the Post Oak/Galleria area that are making the new hire market very tough. Fortunately, we have a core group of waitstaff that have been with us a long time. In the past we have had a steady flow of people seeking employment but this stream has really dried up.”

    So far eaters haven’t been complaining about lack of service at their favorite spots but clearly restaurants are upping their game when it comes to hiring and retaining workers.

    Google “waiter jobs Houston” and get more than 400,000 sites. At shiftgig.com there are 16 pages of restaurant server openings. And with more and more restaurants on the boards, Houston could soon become a servers’ paradise when it comes to picking and choosing jobs.

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    That's Amore!

    Pioneering Mexican chef and chic speakeasy popping up at Houston hotel

    Brianna Griff
    May 23, 2025 | 10:00 am
    Chef Alejandro Ruiz of Casa Oaxaca
    Photo courtesy of Four Seasons Hotel Houston
    Four Seasons Hotel Houston is hosting a two-night pop-up dinner featuring chef Alejandro Ruiz of Casa Oaxaca.

    Houston diners won’t need a passport to explore Mexico’s culinary capital next month. On June 16 and 17, Four Seasons Hotel Houston will host From Oaxaca, With Love, a five-course experience that teams celebrated chef Alejandro Ruiz of Casa Oaxaca with Oaxaca City cocktail bar Sabina Sabe and agave-spirits producer The Lost Explorer.

    The evening begins with Sabina Sabe bartender Mike Prado greeting diners with a cocktail in Bandista, the hotel’s speakeasy bar and lounge. The libations promise to be divine, with Sabine Sabe currently ranked No. 54 Best Bar in North America, and Bandista sitting at No. 59.

    From there, the party moves into a dining room filled with contemporary works supplied by Oaxaca Serrano Contemporary Art Gallery and underscored by live music.

    Ruiz, whose flagship Casa Oaxaca earned a spot in Mexico’s inaugural Michelin Guide, built his reputation by elevating the dishes he learned as a child cooking alongside his mother on the family farm.

    The chef stays close to his roots with recipes crafted using native ingredients such as chiles, corn, insects, and seeds purchased directly from local producers. Ruiz has long been considered an ambassador of the southern Mexican state — his enfrijoladas caused Noma’s famed Chef Rene Redzepi a moment of rapture.

    For his Houston appearance, diners can expect a true taste of Oaxaca: think a mini tostada topped with heirloom chapulines, chicatanas, and gusanos de maguey (grasshoppers, flying ants, and agave worms); red snapper cured in a bright tomatillo-rice-vinegar broth; and a slow-braised short rib finished in a fruit-laced mole.

    Prado will pair each course with cocktails such as the Pimiento Margarita, combining The Lost Explorer Tobalá mezcal with vermouth, peach, pimiento, cinnamon, and lime.

    “It is our great pleasure to welcome chef Alejandro Ruiz and Sabina Sabe to Houston, Texas,” Tom Segesta, Four Seasons Hotel Houston’s general manager, said in a statement. "These dinners, featuring these awarded ambassadors of Oaxacan food and drink, are sure to be enjoyed by our local community and guests from around the world.”

    The pop-up continues the hotel’s ongoing dinner-series format, which has previously spotlighted restaurants ranging from Emeril’s in New Orleans to Employees Only in New York and an Italian-American steakhouse from James Beard Award winner Chris Shepherd.

    From Oaxaca, With Love begins at 7 pm on Monday, June 16, and Tuesday, June 17. Seating is limited, with tickets priced at $250 per person plus tax and gratuity. Each reservation will receive a signed English-language copy of Ruiz’s cookbook The Food of Oaxaca: Recipes and Stories from Mexico's Culinary Capital. Reservations are available via OpenTable.

    Those who wish to linger can book the hotel’s Advance Purchase offer, which discounts room rates by up to 25 percent when reserved three or more days ahead.

    The menu features:

    Starter Trio

    • Mini tostada with heirloom insects
    • Zucchini blossom stuffed with ricotta and roasted banana purée
    • Hoja santa “taco” with quesillo, beans, and wild mushrooms

    Green Aguachile

    • Red snapper cured in tomatillo-rice-vinegar broth, Persian cucumber, red onion, cilantro, ginger-toasted peanuts
    • Cocktail: Pequeño Gigante – Madre Cuishe mezcal, hoja santa, ginger, lime, Oaxacan spices

    Tortilla Soup

    • Tomato-pasilla mixe broth, crispy tortillas, fresh cheese, cream, pork cracklings, mint-celery garnish
    • Cocktail: Pimiento Margarita – Tobalá mezcal, Mistela vermouth, peach, pimiento, cinnamon, lime

    Braised Short Rib

    • Anchamanteles mole, seasonal fruit relish, banana purée, crispy plantain
    • Cocktail: Agave Xerez – The Lost Explorer tequila, Palomino sherry, green apple, pear

    Textures of Oaxacan

    • Chocolate Mousse, sponge cake, ice cream, tuile, passion-fruit jelly, cacao nibs
    • Neat pour of Tobalá mezcal
    • Traditional water-based hot chocolate infused with cacao flower

    Chef Alejandro Ruiz of Casa Oaxaca
      

    Photo courtesy of Four Seasons Hotel Houston

    Four Seasons Hotel Houston is hosting a two-night pop-up dinner featuring chef Alejandro Ruiz of Casa Oaxaca.

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