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    No Beard for Hou

    Houston shockingly shut out of prestigious Oscars of food awards

    Eric Sandler
    Mar 27, 2019 | 11:35 am
    Hugo Ortega Beard Foundation press conference
    Hugo Ortega joined Beard Foundation CEO Clare Reichenbach on stage at Wednesday's press conference.
    Photo by Eric Sandler

    A morning that began with optimism at Houston’s prospects in the James Beard Awards ended in disappointment. None of the city’s record-breaking 11 semifinalists moved on to the finalist status for the awards, which are widely considered the Oscars of the culinary world.

    That disappointment is exacerbated by the James Beard Foundation’s decision to come to Houston to announce the finalists live from Hugo’s in Montrose. Not earning any finalist nominations undermined the optimism spurred by Tuesday night’s sold out dinner at Caracol, where all of the city’s James Beard winners — Irma Galvan (Irma's), Robert Del Grande (Cafe Annie), Chris Shepherd (Underbelly Hospitality), Justin Yu (Theodore Rex), and Hugo Ortega (H-Town Restaurant Group) — served delicious dishes that highlighted the city’s culinary star power.

    Still, the message from Foundation officials is that the city should feel proud of what it has accomplished — three of the Best Chef: Southwest winners since 2014 hail from Houston — and what is to come in the future.

    “This is an amazing, dynamic, gracious food city,” Beard Foundation chief stategy officer Mitchell Davis tells CultureMap. “The reality is the voting is done by independent volunteers, it’s a national body [with] lots of judges. I can’t explain the results. All I can say is there’s a tremendous amount of integrity.”

    Certainly no one is questioning the integrity of the results or even the worthiness of the chefs selected as finalists for Best Chef: Southwest: Charleen Badman of FnB in Scottsdale, Kevin Fink of Emmer and Rye in Austin, Michael Fojtasek of Olamie in Austin, Bryce Gilmore of Barley Swine in Austin, and Steven McHugh of Cured in San Antonio. Still, it does highlight a problem of a region that includes six states competing for a very limited number of spots: Arizona, Colorado, New Mexico, Oklahoma, Texas, and Utah. It’s an issue the foundation is aware of.

    “We review the regions constantly, because our goal is to make everyone who cooks, no matter where he or she is cooking, have as fair a chance to win an award,” Davis says. “With that directive, the committees have been asked to review the restaurant statistics, the population statistics. I think, in the coming months, there will be some changes that will try to make good on that directive.”

    Houston isn’t the only city that suffers under the current organization, which has been in place since 2012. All of the finalists in the Great Lakes region come from Chicago. Florida, which occupies the South region, didn’t earn any finalists, but New Orleans, which is in the same region, had three.

    “It’s not for Houston’s sake, it’s not for Chicago’s sake, it’s not for Miami’s sake. It’s about this dynamic country,” Davis says. “New York was originally its own region because there was so many activity there vis-a-vis the rest of the country. That’s not true either. You can’t keep up. Our committees are constantly reviewing, looking at data, trying to figure it out. I think come next year there will be some changes to help recognize some of the challenges in recognizing chefs from across the country.”

    If nothing else, the city proved to be a gracious host that raised an epic amount of money for the Foundation’s scholarship program. To channel the spirit of legendary Houston Oilers coach Bum Phillips, if the city’s chefs keep banging on the door, eventually they’ll kick the son of a bitch in.

    awardschefs
    news/restaurants-bars

    firing up Montrose

    New Houston seafood restaurant adds live-fire flair to Japanese flavors

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 3, 2025 | 10:02 am
    Casa Kenji restaurant
    Photo by Becca Wright
    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    An ambitious new seafood restaurant is coming to Montrose next week. Casa Kenji will open on Tuesday, December 9.

    Located in the former Andiron space (3201 Allen Pkwy), Casa Kenji is the first Houston project for New Orleans restaurateur Malachi DuPre, a former LSU standout who played briefly in the NFL before establishing Kenji and Kenji Kazoku restaurants in New Orleans. Together with former LSU teammate John “B-John” Ballis and Houston chef Bigler “Biggie” Cruz, Casa Kenji will blend Latin and Japanese influences while also incorporating live-fire elements into the restaurant’s dishes. Cruz, whose resume includes a lengthy stint at Uchi as well as working at critically acclaimed Houston seafood restaurant Golfstrømmen, tells CultureMap that Casa Kenji’s approach is the first time he can be himself in the kitchen.

    “My perfect restaurant was always based on the live fire and sushi combination,” Cruz says. “My mom cooked with wood for my entire life. The live fire creates completely different flavors. The smoky flavors, the sear from the charcoal — they create a different type of memory for me.”

    The use of live fire techniques will permeate Casa Kenji’s menus in ways both big and small. For example, diners will be able to feast on prawns grilled directly on charcoal and served with yuzu chili garlic, or savor lightly seared Japanese wagyu tataki paired with mushrooms. Even raw dishes will benefit from the restaurant’s wood-burning grill and stove.

    “Every vegetable we peel, we make into an ash that’s a topping for the dishes. It adds a different layer of flavor,” Cruz says. Look for it in the scallop aguachile, among others.

    Even vegetables get a smoky component, as in a cabbage dish that’s braised with dashi and soy sauce before being roasted and served with an onion soubise that Cruz says he developed based on techniques he learned from Golfstrømmen chef Christopher Haatuft.

    “It’s rich, super savory, with smoky layers, and you get brightness from the shiso gremolata. I think it will be a signature dish for us,” the chef says.

    One change to the interior is the addition of a six-seat omakase counter that looks into the kitchen. Cruz promises those diners will have an even more elevated experience than the restaurant’s regular menu, including ingredients such as Japanese wagyu and premium fish flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market.

    Beyond its cuisine, Casa Kenji hopes to stand out with its spacious outdoor patio. Since very few Japanese-inspired restaurants in Houston offer outdoor seating, it should appeal to diners who want a little vitamin D along with their tuna crudo.

    “We’re proud to showcase the craft and creativity that defines Casa Kenji,” co-founders Cruz, Ballis, and DuPre said in a statement. “With chef Bigler Cruz at the helm — blending live-fire technique with the discipline of Japanese tradition — we’re equally honored and excited to share a unique concept that is truly rooted in passion, culture, and community.”

    Casa Kenji will be open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday beginning at 4 pm. Reservations are available on Resy.

    Casa Kenji restaurant

    Photo by Becca Wright

    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    news/restaurants-bars
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