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    Kitchen Secrets

    Valentine's à la maison: Central Market's David Kiser maps out a feast for two

    Steven Devadanam
    Feb 13, 2011 | 7:00 pm
    • Opt for strawberries with offbeat toppings.
      Photo by Steven Thomson
    • A five-ingredient rub makes for a stress-free V-Day dinner.
      Photo by Steven Thomson
    • David Kiser, director of Central Market's Cooking School.
      Photo by Steven Thomson

    This year, ditch the fancy pants trattoria and brasserie down the block. Trying to impress your sig other by nailing down a reservation is an overdone, transparent tactic.

    Instead, opt for a romantic, low-key V-Day dinner in your own dining room. We met with Central Market Cooking School exec direc David Kiser to get the dish on a simple, yet indulgent, dining experience for two.

    Step 1: Set the stage with a table setting that shows effort while avoiding a gaudy "tablescape." "A white cotton tablecloth goes with anything," says Kiser, "and can be customized for the holiday with colorful cloth napkins." He insists having the local laundromat take care of the linens. You want to relax, not iron out wrinkles.

    Next, formulate a centerpiece. As an alternative, Kiser recommends using an appealing cutting board, which provides a landing ground for butter, spices and whatever sauce you whip up.

    Flowers are crucial, says Kiser. "When guys come in to buy flowers for their date, they need to know what color she likes . . . or at least the color of her eyes," he says. A rose is a rose is a rose, but he refuses to dispatch the popular bloom, no matter the occasion or the recipient. Instead, opt for hydrangeas, oriental, casablanca or stargazer lilies, or the seasonal favorite, tulips.

    "Don't be afraid to stray from red and white in your bouquet," he says, suggesting parrot tulips, which are yellow with an orange stripe.

    You're ready to confront the evening's central goal: dinner. When we met with Kiser, he offered a simple, flavorful recipe for filet mignon with a cacao nib and coffee rub. Here's the short list of ingredients:

    • 1/4 cup cacao nibs
    • 1/4 cup dark roast coffee
    • 1/8 cup dark brown sugar
    • 2 teaspoons salt
    • 1 teaspoon ground pepper

    Using a spice grinder or food processor, pulse-grind the cacao nibs to the consistency of very coarse ground coffee. Combine all the ingredients and rub on two four to six-ounce filets. For a medium to medium-rare steak, grill for five to six minutes on each side.

    The recipe requires no marinating or chopping, which means more time with your sweetie than sweating in the kitchen. The rub also goes well with other cuts of beef, as well as pork and firm white fish. To simplify side dishes, pick up packages of prepared green beans almondine and Boursin soufflé potatoes.

    "What would Valentine's Day be without wine?" asks Kiser. "This is what I always say about choosing a wine: Drink what you like. You don't necessarily have to match it to the meat. If you already like the wine you're drinking, then you're going to enjoy what it's paired with that much more." For the filet mignon, a red is recommended, but Kiser argues that a rosé or heavy-bodied white wine would work as well. "This is your chance to lower the pressure a little bit," he says.

    For dessert, skip the impossible-to-master mousse in favor of chocolate dipped strawberries (with inventive coatings) and fine bonbons. Central Market is the only retailer where you can snag artisan chocolates by Araya outside the choclatier's River Oaks Shopping Center atelier.

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    oh bevin

    Houston bartender's new book celebrates cocktails and sexuality

    Craig D. Lindsey
    Apr 14, 2026 | 1:15 pm
    Bevin Biggers Aphro cocktail
    Photo by Troy Ezequiel Montes
    Bevin Biggers writes about sex and cocktails in her new book, Aphro.

    “There's a lot of stigma about sexuality, especially with black women.”

    Louisiana-born, Houston-based mixologist/multidisciplinary artist Bevin Biggers says as she’s flipping through the pages of her literary debut Aphro: A Cocktail Book on the Sexual Response Cycle. A veteran of Houston’s bar and restaurant scene, who has worked nightspots from Montrose to the Heights and collaborated with big-name alcohol brands (and who also isn’t afraid to call out shady establishments), Biggers has created a project that’s part cocktail manual and part Black, female sexuality manifesto.

    “We already have a lot of other s**t going on and then, on top of that, it's sex, too,” says Biggers, while sipping on a drink at a Midtown watering hole. She points out that, when it comes to media representation, Black women have been stuck with many stereotypical caricatures/portrayals throughout the decades: maids, baby mommas, lesbians, jezebels, sistas who are just plain ol’ angry. But as for Black women who freely explore their sexuality with no shame or repercussions, the culture usually comes up empty.

    “[White women] can be explorative and do all these different things. Black women do it and it’s ‘she’s a whore’ or whatever, right? So, all these caricatures kind of negatively impact how we live, and I talk about all of that here,” she says.

    Aphro originally began a decade ago as a bar concept. After years of becoming a pro in the mixology game, even honing her craft-cocktail skills while living in New York (where she became a fan of the city’s Museum of Sex), she wanted to make it a full-fledged business. Unfortunately, this hasn’t been a good time to open a bar (“Bars are expensive,” she confirms).

    Eventually, it morphed into a book project where Biggers drops sex talk, cocktail recipes, and surprising bits of African American history. “There's a lot of Black bartenders back in the day who freed their wives, their children, and themselves from slavery, using bartenderships,” she says.

    The sex lives of African Americans during and after slavery is a subject Biggers has done extensive research on. Last November, she gave her Substack readers an Aphro taste when she posted a lengthy study on chattel slavery and its impact on the orgasm gap. “It's still a real cocktail book – there are still many pages of recipes,” she assures. “But, here, I talk about stereotypes, caricatures of black women, the orgasm gap, chattel slavery, and how things almost connect to current times.” She also included a questionnaire she sent women regarding orgasms. “I asked very specific questions, and I got a lot of f—ed-up answers, which was the whole point ”

    Funded by a grant from Houston Arts Alliance, Biggers worked with Toronto-based Sure Print & Design to put Aphro into book form. She collaborated with local photographer Rosebeth Akharamen in serving up glorious color shots of the suggestively-named cocktails, made from “aphrodisiac ingredients,” Biggers had conceived.

    Drinks range from “Late Night Cinemax,” (consisting of mezcal, corn puree, chipotle honey, coconut, and a popcorn garnish) to “Locally Deflower” (which includes Texas sized herbs and “delicate floral notes to evoke a softer intimacy”). These 20 recipes are the result of Biggers spending over a decade getting to know more about classic cocktails and modern bartending techniques.

    “I come from Hiram Clarke, where it’s just Hennessy, Alize, Crown Royal,” she says. “And, then, when I came to start bartending, I was learning about Fernet and Montenegro and IPAs and good considerations of beers, and I was like, what the hell is all this? But I want to learn. I want to know what y'all know,” she says.

    We also get seductive shots of Biggers herself, all glammed up in several swanky locations, including her own living room. “I didn’t see any of these photos when she took them because we were in a rush, because of the makeup artists, and I had to do my makeup all over again,” she says. “So, this was all trust, and she knocked it out the park.”

    For Biggers, it’s all worth it if her fellow cocoa-colored beauties buy her book and start feeling more grown, Black, and sexy about themselves. “The inspiration is always being curious about this topic, but it was such a big deal in my community, of not wanting to be accused of being fast,” she says. “Even something that's mutual, it's always, what did you do to him? If it's kissing, it’s you kissed him, and it's not like, y'all kissed each other, you know. There was always punishment for something that's kind of natural. Then, when you're curious about something like that, you start to learn about it in dangerous ways… You learn through strangers, because your parents are not telling you anything about this stuff. You learn through movies. You learn through putting viruses on the f—ing computer, because you typed in the wrong thing, and now, the home computer, the family computer is f—ed up.”

    Biggers ordered a limited run of Aphro volumes that she sells on her website, which also has related merch like color prints and an adult coloring book. She still has dreams of turning her book into a watering hole one day. Until then, she’ll continue her mission of instructing women (and men) on how to stir up your sex life – as well as a stiff drink.

    ----

    Biggers will host an Aphro book release party/talk at Los Perros Cafe on Friday, April 17, at 7 pm. RSVP here.


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