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    Changes at Peska

    Adventuresome Galleria-area seafood restaurant plots new course with Prime steaks

    Eric Sandler
    Feb 7, 2017 | 2:58 pm
    Peska Seafood Culture Inteior
    Big changes are coming to Peska.
    Courtesy photo

    A Galleria-area seafood restaurant is making some big changes in 2017. As it prepares to celebrate its second birthday in April, Peska Seafood Culture is moving in a new direction that will add American-style steaks and sides to its menu of mostly Mexican-inspired seafood dishes.

    In response to changes in the market that have seen declining support from customers, owner Maite Ysita has enlisted the help of Grazia Italian Kitchen owner Adrian Hembree and executive chef Steve Haug to make both physical changes to the Gensler-designed space and new additions to the menu. The restaurant has been closed since Sunday night for the physical changes, but it will reopen on Thursday.

    “I started realizing there was a market change six or seven months after we opened,” Ysita tells CultureMap. “Oil prices went down, fewer people were spending money. I also looked at the menu, and I thought we had to open our market and offer more steaks, more non-seafood items, a little bit more approachable for the market in this area.”

    In order to better understand Peska’s situation, Ysita responded by moving her family from Mexico to Houston, which allowed her to spend more time at the restaurant. At the suggestion of a mutual friend, she met with Hembree and discovered someone who understood Houston and shared her vision for Peska’s potential.

    It might seem like an unlikely match, but Hembree has a track record of success at giving people what they want — just consider its surprising win at last year’s Rodeo Best Bites competition. Grazia has already expanded from its original location in Pearland to a second in Clear Lake. In addition, Hembree opened a Tex-Mex concept called Gracia Mexican Cantina in Corpus Christi. Haug brings experience in the area, too, having served as the executive chef at Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steakhouse almost 10 years.

    “What I felt was happening here is not that we don’t have a great location, a beautiful building, or the ability to put out great food. I just felt like, and the opportunity for me, was we needed to connect the dots,” Hembree says. “We weren’t too far off from where we needed to be, the opportunity was there to connect those dots and figure out what people want.”

    The biggest physical change involves expanding the bar area by converting the restaurant’s market section of fresh fish and dry goods into more seating. Instead of being greeted by a large display of fresh fish on ice and shelves with products like olive oil and tinned seafood, diners will seat a large, U-shaped bar with lounge furniture. These changes are designed to make the restaurant more appealing to walk-ins and allow Peska to expand its happy hour business with a dedicated bar menu.

    Haug’s additions to the dinner menu start with eight USDA Prime steaks along with steakhouse starters and sides like a wedge salad, jumbo lump crab cake, and triple cheese lobster mac and cheese (Haug has been previewing some of the changes on his Instagram and in the Houston Foodie Friends Facebook group). Staples from the restaurant’s siblings in Mexico City and Acapulco like the tiraditos, pork belly bun, half and half snapper, and whole branzino will remain.

    Hembree has dubbed the blending of steak and seafood “Pes-karne,” and Haug tells CultureMap he thinks the ability to serve high-quality meat and fish together will help Peska stand out from the numerous other steakhouses near the Galleria.

    “The one thing I think that’s going to set us apart, I think there’s where Peska comes in with their superb seafood,” Haug says. “I think a lot of steakhouses have seafood on their menu, but what we have to offer is not your basic pan-seared salmon. We’re taking the seafood to a new level.”

    However, that new level will not involve opening chef Omar Pereney. Although a decision about his future with the restaurant hadn’t been made when CultureMap spoke to Ysita, Hembree, and Haug last week, the 22-year old executive chef subsequently opted to resign rather than continue with Peska’s new direction. Even before Pereney made his decision, the writing was on the wall about his future with the restaurant.

    “I look at a plate he puts out, and it looks like art. I know he put every ounce of passion into putting out that dish,” Hembree says. “I think when something came out, a beautiful piece of fish that was sauced just right, it felt absolutely incredible. You take that same fish and you overdress it and over-decorate it and put some twist to it and get really creative with it, that feeling of ‘I want to dig into that fish’ really went away. What we’re trying to capture here is when food hits that table, we’re excited. I’m just jonesing to go in and take a bite.”

    The parting may be bittersweet for Ysita, but she expresses confidence that Peska is heading in the right direction.

    “Peska is my baby, and I know the potential it has,” she says. “I know the brand that we’re building. I know what we want to do with Peska and the location we have.”

    news-you-can-eat
    news/restaurants-bars

    TxMo Best New Restaurants

    4 Houston spots make Texas Monthly's best new restaurants of 2026 list

    Eric Sandler
    Mar 2, 2026 | 9:00 am
    Agnes and Sherman food spread
    Photo by Vivian Leba
    Agnes and Sherman is Texas Monthly's Restaurant of the Year.

    Texas Monthly has revealed its 10 best new restaurants for 2026. Published Monday, March 2, the list is open to restaurants that opened between December 1, 2024 and October 31, 2025.

    Notably, it’s the first edition of the list written by Paula Forbes, who succeeded veteran writer Pat Sharpe last year. She writes that that 2025 was “a lackluster one for Texas restaurants. . . Restaurant experiences that feel truly worth it, that have the power to wow, are hard to come by. But they’re out there,” she continues.

    Forbes found those “worth it” experiences at restaurants in Houston, Austin, Dallas, San Antonio, and Paris, a small town in far northeast Texas near the Oklahoma border. Once again, Houston led the way with four spots. They are:

    • Agnes and Sherman, an Asian American diner in the Heights
    • Zaranda, a California-inspired Mexican restaurant in downtown
    • Di An Pho, a Vietnamese restaurant in Chinatown
    • Latuli, chef Bryan Caswell’s eclectic neighborhood restaurant in Memorial

    Forbes hails Agnes and Sherman as her Restaurant of the Year, writing that it deserves a promotion to four-star status after the three-star review she wrote in October. She praises a number of chef Nick Wong’s dishes, including a French dip sandwich, shrimp cocktail, and crab rangoon. “Wong respects the cuisines he riffs on but is not afraid to contort them. The combinations are irresistible,” she writes.

    Zaranda, James Beard Award winner Hugo Ortega’s ode to both the state of California and Baja California, earned its spot for its eponymous dish of seafood cooked in a wire basket, among other items. Forbes hails Di An Pho’s 70-year old chef Hung Van Tran for opening a restaurant that only serves his definitive versions of both beef and chicken pho. She writes that Latuli serves some of Caswell’s signature dishes from across his career, including “a crab-packed crab cake (served with spicy sorghum mustard), a pecan-smoked pork chop, and Shiner-steamed mussels.”

    Dallas restaurants take three spots on the list. At Rainbowcat, James Beard finalist Misti Norris is riffing on comfort fare such as chicken tenders, a McMuffin made with porchetta and braised greens, and a dessert inspired by Cinnamon Toast Crunch. Michelin-starred Mamani earns its spot for expertly-crafted French and Italian fare and a lengthy wine list. Sushi Kozy, led by Uchi Dallas alum Paul Ko, restored Forbes’ faith in omakase dining.

    Austin’s sole representative is Fish Shop, which serves West Coast-inspired seafood such as a Dungeness crab cocktail and halibut crudo alongside Gulf Coast-style fare such as well-sourced oysters.

    San Antonio’s Petit Coquin is Forbes’ “favorite” of the three French restaurants on the list thank to its “streamlined prix fixe menu and laissez-faire atmosphere,” she writes. Diners are encouraged to try dishes such as country pâté, steak au poivre, and rice pudding.

    BonFire, a French restaurant in Paris, TX, also has Houston ties. Chef Patten Sommers spent the early part of his career in the Bayou City, working at restaurants such as Triniti, Ciao Bello, and Brenner’s on the Bayou.

    The full list, in the order it's presented in the article, is as follows:

    1. Agnes and Sherman, an Asian American diner in Houston
    2. BonFire, a French restaurant in Paris
    3. Zaranda, a Mexican restaurant in Houston
    4. Fish Shop, a seafood restaurant in Austin
    5. Rainbowcat, a comfort food restaurant in Dallas
    6. Mamani, a French and Italian fine dining restaurant in Dallas
    7. Di An Pho, a Vietnamese restaurant in Houston
    8. Petit Coquin, a French restaurant in San Antonio
    9. Latuli, a modern American restaurant in Houston
    10. Sushi Kozy, a Japanese restaurant in Dallas

    Agnes and Sherman food spread
    Photo by Vivian Leba

    Agnes and Sherman is Texas Monthly's Restaurant of the Year.

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