I forget what 8 was for

Houston's sophisticated new Mediterranean restaurant surfaces this week

This week is a busy one for new Montrose restaurants. Fresh off the news that Drake’s Hollywood is opening on Thursday, August 29 comes word that Sof Hospitality will unveil Októ, its new Mediterranean concept, beginning Saturday, August 31.

Announced in May, Októ occupies the former The Chelsea space at the Montrose Collective, the mixed-use development that’s also home to Marmo, Uchi, and recently opened cocktail bar The Sophie. Its the fourth concept from Sof Hospitality, joining luxurious steakhouse Doris Metropolitan, Israeli-inspired restaurant Hamsa, and Badolina Bakery.

Named for the Greek word for “eight” — a nod to the building’s address at 888 Westheimer Road — Októ takes inspiration from Mediterranean countries such as Greece, Italy, and Spain. Created by chefs Yotam Dolev (Hamsa) and Hai Avnaim (Doris Metropolitan), the restaurant serves a tidy menu of fewer than 20 starters, entrees, and sides that’s designed to be shared.

Meals at Októ could begin with a Greek salad, eggplant carpaccio, or a green salad with crispy buckwheat and pickled peppers and onions. From there, diners may opt for a raw seafood dish such as tuna crudo or sea bass carpaccio.

Entrees include squid ink linguini with crab and and sambal butter sauce, branzino en papillote, or lamb chops with cauliflower and sunchoke skordalia (a Greek garlic dip). The restaurant is put its spin on the French classic filet Rossini, which is steak topped with foie gras, mushrooms, and a peppercorn sauce.

Okto restuarant steak Steak Rossini is topped with foie gras and peppercorn sauce.Photo by Becca Wright

Co-owner Itai Ben Eli and chef Dolev spoke about the restaurant on a recent episode of CultureMap’s “What’s Eric Eating” podcast. They explained the ways in which Októ’s food is intended to be more elevated than what they serve at Hamsa.

“The dishes at Októ are going to be more detailed and more layered than the ones we have at Hamsa, which is based more on traditional cooking. Októ is going to be a little more modern with layers and elevations that we’ll do daily,” Ben Eli said.

“We’re really trying to change the rules when it comes to the culinary scene and Okto,” Dolev added. “I just came back from Israel a couple of weeks ago. The scene there is amazing. I thought, I need to bring a touch of this, a touch of Italy, a touch of Greece.”

Okto restaurant frena bread Frena is a Moroccan bread with a crispy exterior and a fluffy interior.Photo by Becca Wright

Of course, just as Doris Metropolitan is widely celebrated for its bread and Hamsa has become known for its pita, no meal at Októ will be complete without its frena bread. Served with a housemade pistachio butter, the traditional Moroccan bread is baked upside down on rocks.

“The rocks give it a nice shape. They crisp up the edges and give you a fluffy inside,” Dolev explained.

Currently, Októ will be open until 10 pm during the week and 11 pm on the weekends, but it could stay open later in the future. A DJ booth in the dining room hints at the kind of lively late night atmosphere that Ben Eli and business partner Itamar Levy intend to offer. Other design details include windows that offer a view into the kitchen and a plant-filled patio.

“All of our concepts have evolved from one another, influenced by our deep cultural roots, and come to life by our talented players,” Ben Eli added in a statement. “Októ really emphasizes the boutique nature of our brand and the intimate feel of the Mediterranean dining scene. It is the product of the dream team we have at Sof Hospitality - with extensive collaboration on everything from the design of the space to the finishes on our cocktails."

Photo by Becca Wright

Meals at Októ could start with dishes such as eggplant carpaccio or Greek salad.

news-you-can-eat openings okto chefs montrose

firing up Montrose

New Houston seafood restaurant adds live-fire flair to Japanese flavors

Photo by Becca Wright

Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

An ambitious new seafood restaurant is coming to Montrose next week. Casa Kenji will open on Tuesday, December 9.

Located in the former Andiron space (3201 Allen Pkwy), Casa Kenji is the first Houston project for New Orleans restaurateur Malachi DuPre, a former LSU standout who played briefly in the NFL before establishing Kenji and Kenji Kazoku restaurants in New Orleans. Together with former LSU teammate John “B-John” Ballis and Houston chef Bigler “Biggie” Cruz, Casa Kenji will blend Latin and Japanese influences while also incorporating live-fire elements into the restaurant’s dishes. Cruz, whose resume includes a lengthy stint at Uchi as well as working at critically acclaimed Houston seafood restaurant Golfstrømmen, tells CultureMap that Casa Kenji’s approach is the first time he can be himself in the kitchen.

“My perfect restaurant was always based on the live fire and sushi combination,” Cruz says. “My mom cooked with wood for my entire life. The live fire creates completely different flavors. The smoky flavors, the sear from the charcoal — they create a different type of memory for me.”

The use of live fire techniques will permeate Casa Kenji’s menus in ways both big and small. For example, diners will be able to feast on prawns grilled directly on charcoal and served with yuzu chili garlic, or savor lightly seared Japanese wagyu tataki paired with mushrooms. Even raw dishes will benefit from the restaurant’s wood-burning grill and stove.

“Every vegetable we peel, we make into an ash that’s a topping for the dishes. It adds a different layer of flavor,” Cruz says. Look for it in the scallop aguachile, among others.

Even vegetables get a smoky component, as in a cabbage dish that’s braised with dashi and soy sauce before being roasted and served with an onion soubise that Cruz says he developed based on techniques he learned from Golfstrømmen chef Christopher Haatuft.

“It’s rich, super savory, with smoky layers, and you get brightness from the shiso gremolata. I think it will be a signature dish for us,” the chef says.

One change to the interior is the addition of a six-seat omakase counter that looks into the kitchen. Cruz promises those diners will have an even more elevated experience than the restaurant’s regular menu, including ingredients such as Japanese wagyu and premium fish flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market.

Beyond its cuisine, Casa Kenji hopes to stand out with its spacious outdoor patio. Since very few Japanese-inspired restaurants in Houston offer outdoor seating, it should appeal to diners who want a little vitamin D along with their tuna crudo.

“We’re proud to showcase the craft and creativity that defines Casa Kenji,” co-founders Cruz, Ballis, and DuPre said in a statement. “With chef Bigler Cruz at the helm — blending live-fire technique with the discipline of Japanese tradition — we’re equally honored and excited to share a unique concept that is truly rooted in passion, culture, and community.”

Casa Kenji will be open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday beginning at 4 pm. Reservations are available on Resy.

Photo by Becca Wright

Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.