I forget what 8 was for

Houston's sophisticated new Mediterranean restaurant surfaces this week

This week is a busy one for new Montrose restaurants. Fresh off the news that Drake’s Hollywood is opening on Thursday, August 29 comes word that Sof Hospitality will unveil Októ, its new Mediterranean concept, beginning Saturday, August 31.

Announced in May, Októ occupies the former The Chelsea space at the Montrose Collective, the mixed-use development that’s also home to Marmo, Uchi, and recently opened cocktail bar The Sophie. Its the fourth concept from Sof Hospitality, joining luxurious steakhouse Doris Metropolitan, Israeli-inspired restaurant Hamsa, and Badolina Bakery.

Named for the Greek word for “eight” — a nod to the building’s address at 888 Westheimer Road — Októ takes inspiration from Mediterranean countries such as Greece, Italy, and Spain. Created by chefs Yotam Dolev (Hamsa) and Hai Avnaim (Doris Metropolitan), the restaurant serves a tidy menu of fewer than 20 starters, entrees, and sides that’s designed to be shared.

Meals at Októ could begin with a Greek salad, eggplant carpaccio, or a green salad with crispy buckwheat and pickled peppers and onions. From there, diners may opt for a raw seafood dish such as tuna crudo or sea bass carpaccio.

Entrees include squid ink linguini with crab and and sambal butter sauce, branzino en papillote, or lamb chops with cauliflower and sunchoke skordalia (a Greek garlic dip). The restaurant is put its spin on the French classic filet Rossini, which is steak topped with foie gras, mushrooms, and a peppercorn sauce.

Okto restuarant steak Steak Rossini is topped with foie gras and peppercorn sauce.Photo by Becca Wright

Co-owner Itai Ben Eli and chef Dolev spoke about the restaurant on a recent episode of CultureMap’s “What’s Eric Eating” podcast. They explained the ways in which Októ’s food is intended to be more elevated than what they serve at Hamsa.

“The dishes at Októ are going to be more detailed and more layered than the ones we have at Hamsa, which is based more on traditional cooking. Októ is going to be a little more modern with layers and elevations that we’ll do daily,” Ben Eli said.

“We’re really trying to change the rules when it comes to the culinary scene and Okto,” Dolev added. “I just came back from Israel a couple of weeks ago. The scene there is amazing. I thought, I need to bring a touch of this, a touch of Italy, a touch of Greece.”

Okto restaurant frena bread Frena is a Moroccan bread with a crispy exterior and a fluffy interior.Photo by Becca Wright

Of course, just as Doris Metropolitan is widely celebrated for its bread and Hamsa has become known for its pita, no meal at Októ will be complete without its frena bread. Served with a housemade pistachio butter, the traditional Moroccan bread is baked upside down on rocks.

“The rocks give it a nice shape. They crisp up the edges and give you a fluffy inside,” Dolev explained.

Currently, Októ will be open until 10 pm during the week and 11 pm on the weekends, but it could stay open later in the future. A DJ booth in the dining room hints at the kind of lively late night atmosphere that Ben Eli and business partner Itamar Levy intend to offer. Other design details include windows that offer a view into the kitchen and a plant-filled patio.

“All of our concepts have evolved from one another, influenced by our deep cultural roots, and come to life by our talented players,” Ben Eli added in a statement. “Októ really emphasizes the boutique nature of our brand and the intimate feel of the Mediterranean dining scene. It is the product of the dream team we have at Sof Hospitality - with extensive collaboration on everything from the design of the space to the finishes on our cocktails."

Photo by Becca Wright

Meals at Októ could start with dishes such as eggplant carpaccio or Greek salad.

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What's Eric Eating Episodes 518 and 519

Meet the men behind River Oaks' new destination for bowls and broth

Photo by Becca Wright

Find Honest Mary's in the River Oaks Shopping Center.

On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” Honest Mary’s founder Nelson Monteith and COO Andrew Wiseman joined CultureMap editor Eric Sandler to discuss the Austin-based restaurant that just opened its first Houston location in the River Oaks Shopping Center (2047-A West Gray St).

Monteith shares that he started the restaurant in 2017 in order to fulfill his vision of a restaurant which could serve food that’s fast, fresh, and affordable. A trained chef who operated pioneering Austin restaurant Contigo, Wiseman joined the group to bring both culinary expertise and operational acumen to the grouping company.

Part of what sets Honest Mary’s apart is that diners can add cooked vegetables to the rice and proteins at the heart of every bowl. The “Market Sides” section includes an array of roasted vegetables — including sweet potatoes, cauliflower, broccoli, beets, and Brussels sprouts — as well as black beans, maple-glazed carrots, and green lentils. Bowls can be further enhanced with toppings such as Texas pecans, crispy chickpeas, goat cheese, avocado, and apples as well as sauces such as creamy poblano, cashew lime crema, sesame vinaigrette, spicy peanut, chimichurri and apple cider vinaigrette

Monteith explains that looking at the ingredients on display usually inspires him when he’s deciding what to eat at Honest Mary’s.

“I will almost always look at the line and see what looks fresh and good,” Monteith says. “Today, I got the salted kale with white rice. Then, I got garlic-pepper steak. I added on lentils — they’re my go-to in the winter. They blend everything together, and I love it Then Brussels sprouts looked green. I got some jalapenos. Avocados, cause that’s healthy. Then I got the chimichurri sauce.”

Honest Mary’s is also known for its hearty broths, a classic chicken and a vegetarian option made with seaweed and mushroom. Sandler raves about the chicken broth to Wiseheart, who shares how it’s made.

“We spent six or seven months testing recipes and drinking it ourselves to see if it’s a good idea,” Wiseman says. “I talk about it as a great complement to the menu. It’s healthy. It’s really simple. Most of the kitchens I came up with were rooted in French cuisine. This is just chicken stock with salt in it.”

Listen to the full episode to hear more about Honest Mary’s plans for additional locations in Houston and Dallas. Then Monteith asks a Sandler a few questions about the Houston dining scene.

In this week’s other episode, Sandler and co-host Mary Clarkson discuss the news of the week. Their topics include Home Slice Pizza opening a new location in the Heights; the closures of Brett’s BBQ Shop in Katy and Killen’s Barbecue in The Woodlands; and Esquire including ChòpnBlok on its list of America’s best new restaurants.

In the restaurant of the week segment, the two friends discuss their recent meal at Hypsi, the Italian restaurant in the newly-opened Hotel Daphne. Listen to the episode to hear their favorite dishes and other thoughts on the meal.

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Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 9 am on ESPN 97.5.

Photo by Becca Wright

Find Honest Mary's in the River Oaks Shopping Center.

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