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    wine guy wednesday

    CultureMap Wine Guy Chris Shepherd coaches Houston — How to pop big bottles for Super Bowl bashes

    Chris Shepherd
    Feb 8, 2023 | 2:30 pm
    Chris Shepherd large format wines

    Bring a big bottle or two to your Super Bowl party.

    Photo by Julia Casbarian

    Editor's note: Long before Chris Shepherd became a James Beard Award-winning chef, he developed enough of a passion for wine to work at Brennan's of Houston as a sommelier. He maintains that interest to this day. When Chris expressed interest in writing about wine-related topics for CultureMap, we said yes.

    In this week's column, he offers tips for hosting a memorable Super Bowl party. Take it away, Chris,

    The biggest professional football game of the year is upon us. What does that mean to me? Big bottles, big groups, and lots of snacks!

    Let’s talk about big bottles. If you’re planning on opening multiple bottles throughout the evening, now is the time to consider going big.

    A guide to large format wines

    • 750 mL standard-size bottle
    • 1.5L (two standard-size bottles) – Magnum
    • 3L (four standard-size bottles) – Double Magnum
    • 4.5L (six standard-size bottles) – Jeroboam
    • 6L (eight standard-size bottles) Imperial Magnum
    • 9L (12 standard-size bottles, the equivalent of a case) Salmanazar
    • 12L (16 standard-size bottles) – Balthazar
    • 15L (20 standard-size bottles) – Nebuchadnezzar

    Why do I buy magnums? They age better and slower than small bottles. The wine matures slower, which means it stays fresher and cleaner for a longer period of time. But when it gets down to it, it’s just damn fun to drink wine out of big bottles. It’s Texas. Bigger is better.

    If you’re going to a party, you’ll look really cool walking in with a magnum. For me, it fits my hand just perfectly.

    It’s very doable these days to find magnums and double magnums at your local wine shop. Contrary to popular belief, not every big bottle is expensive. Look for varietals like Gamay, Pinot Noir, or Italian reds, and regions like Beaujolais, Chianti, Southern Rhone, and the Sonoma Coast. You can always find a good supply of Champagne and rosé in magnums — it’s hard to get more celebratory than that!

    Eating the enemy

    I’ve been cooking and "eating the enemy" for years. It was a tradition for every Houston Texans tailgate I’ve ever hosted. Our tailgate team, Duck Fallas, was in Blue Lot 26 every game. The idea is to take the iconic foods of your opponent, cook them and eat them to take their mojo away. I believe that the Astros won the 2022 World Series because I made Philly cheesesteaks every single game they won. The games they lost, I didn’t cook cheesesteaks. Coincidence? I don’t think so.

    If you’re a Kansas City fan, it’s Philly cheesesteak time. Luckily, I have lots of tips. First, the bread. Hoagie rolls are available at any local grocery story, but if you know Montrose well, there’s a local bakery selling delicious fresh bread until 1pm every day. If you know, you know. (Editor's note: It's Royal Bakery at 1841 Fairview St.)

    For the meat, head on over to H Mart. On your way to the meat department, pick up onions and Korean green peppers, which oddly enough look like long hots, a classic Philly addition to the cheesesteak. The thinly sliced ribeye traditionally used for Korean barbecue is perfect for cheesesteaks. Just season it up, chop it up, and cook it on the flat top.

    For cheese, skip the argument by offering all the options — provolone, Cheese Wiz, and American. Plus, all three cheeses make the best cheesesteak anyway. Have plenty of sautéed mushrooms and onions. A friend of mine even introduced me to mayo on a cheesesteak — it’s good! Combine to make a build-your-own party.

    What to pair with a cheesesteak? Gamay all day.

    If you’re a Philly fan, it’s time to head to Kansas City for some barbecue! Ribs are speaking to me — I love them so much. Let’s go with pork ribs. Pick your favorite style — you’ll find them all in KC. I like to follow a 3-2-1 method: 3 hours of smoke unwrapped around 225 degrees, 2 hours wrapped in foil with a little sauce, 1 hour out of the foil back on the pit glazing with sauce. This method produces a sticky, delicious, sauce-all-over-your-face rib. Texas ribs are not traditionally as saucy, but I can respect Kansas City for requiring more napkins.

    I know Kansas City is also known for their burnt ends, but I’d visit my favorite barbecue joint to buy those.

    If you don’t feel like spending six hours smoking meat, they also named a steak after the city. You can’t go wrong with a Kansas City strip steak.

    Suggested pairings:

    • Ribs – Champagne, yes. Rosé, yes. Pretty much anything, yes.
    • Burnt Ends – Go find yourself a Big Red [soda]. A big red wine will work, too, like a Syrah.
    • Strip Steak – It’s still Cab season, y’all.

    I hope everyone has a fantastic Super Bowl. Maybe one day soon our opponents will be cooking banh mi and biryani paired with my favorite rosé to eat the enemy. Welcome home, Coach.

    -----

    Contact our Wine Guy via email at chris@chrisshepherdconcepts.com.

    Chris Shepherd won a James Beard Award for Best Chef: Southwest in 2014. Last year, he parted ways with Underbelly Hospitality, a restaurant group that currently operates four Houston restaurants: Wild Oats, GJ Tavern, Underbelly Burger, and Georgia James. The Southern Smoke Foundation, a non-profit he co-founded with his wife Lindsey Brown, has distributed more than $10 million to hospitality workers in crisis through its Emergency Relief Fund.

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    firing up Montrose

    New Houston seafood restaurant adds live-fire flair to Japanese flavors

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 3, 2025 | 10:02 am
    Casa Kenji restaurant
    Photo by Becca Wright
    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    An ambitious new seafood restaurant is coming to Montrose next week. Casa Kenji will open on Tuesday, December 9.

    Located in the former Andiron space (3201 Allen Pkwy), Casa Kenji is the first Houston project for New Orleans restaurateur Malachi DuPre, a former LSU standout who played briefly in the NFL before establishing Kenji and Kenji Kazoku restaurants in New Orleans. Together with former LSU teammate John “B-John” Ballis and Houston chef Bigler “Biggie” Cruz, Casa Kenji will blend Latin and Japanese influences while also incorporating live-fire elements into the restaurant’s dishes. Cruz, whose resume includes a lengthy stint at Uchi as well as working at critically acclaimed Houston seafood restaurant Golfstrømmen, tells CultureMap that Casa Kenji’s approach is the first time he can be himself in the kitchen.

    “My perfect restaurant was always based on the live fire and sushi combination,” Cruz says. “My mom cooked with wood for my entire life. The live fire creates completely different flavors. The smoky flavors, the sear from the charcoal — they create a different type of memory for me.”

    The use of live fire techniques will permeate Casa Kenji’s menus in ways both big and small. For example, diners will be able to feast on prawns grilled directly on charcoal and served with yuzu chili garlic, or savor lightly seared Japanese wagyu tataki paired with mushrooms. Even raw dishes will benefit from the restaurant’s wood-burning grill and stove.

    “Every vegetable we peel, we make into an ash that’s a topping for the dishes. It adds a different layer of flavor,” Cruz says. Look for it in the scallop aguachile, among others.

    Even vegetables get a smoky component, as in a cabbage dish that’s braised with dashi and soy sauce before being roasted and served with an onion soubise that Cruz says he developed based on techniques he learned from Golfstrømmen chef Christopher Haatuft.

    “It’s rich, super savory, with smoky layers, and you get brightness from the shiso gremolata. I think it will be a signature dish for us,” the chef says.

    One change to the interior is the addition of a six-seat omakase counter that looks into the kitchen. Cruz promises those diners will have an even more elevated experience than the restaurant’s regular menu, including ingredients such as Japanese wagyu and premium fish flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market.

    Beyond its cuisine, Casa Kenji hopes to stand out with its spacious outdoor patio. Since very few Japanese-inspired restaurants in Houston offer outdoor seating, it should appeal to diners who want a little vitamin D along with their tuna crudo.

    “We’re proud to showcase the craft and creativity that defines Casa Kenji,” co-founders Cruz, Ballis, and DuPre said in a statement. “With chef Bigler Cruz at the helm — blending live-fire technique with the discipline of Japanese tradition — we’re equally honored and excited to share a unique concept that is truly rooted in passion, culture, and community.”

    Casa Kenji will be open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday beginning at 4 pm. Reservations are available on Resy.

    Casa Kenji restaurant

    Photo by Becca Wright

    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

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