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    wine guy wednesday

    CultureMap Wine Guy Chris Shepherd coaches Houston — How to pop big bottles for Super Bowl bashes

    Chris Shepherd
    Feb 8, 2023 | 2:30 pm
    Chris Shepherd large format wines

    Bring a big bottle or two to your Super Bowl party.

    Photo by Julia Casbarian

    Editor's note: Long before Chris Shepherd became a James Beard Award-winning chef, he developed enough of a passion for wine to work at Brennan's of Houston as a sommelier. He maintains that interest to this day. When Chris expressed interest in writing about wine-related topics for CultureMap, we said yes.

    In this week's column, he offers tips for hosting a memorable Super Bowl party. Take it away, Chris,

    The biggest professional football game of the year is upon us. What does that mean to me? Big bottles, big groups, and lots of snacks!

    Let’s talk about big bottles. If you’re planning on opening multiple bottles throughout the evening, now is the time to consider going big.

    A guide to large format wines

    • 750 mL standard-size bottle
    • 1.5L (two standard-size bottles) – Magnum
    • 3L (four standard-size bottles) – Double Magnum
    • 4.5L (six standard-size bottles) – Jeroboam
    • 6L (eight standard-size bottles) Imperial Magnum
    • 9L (12 standard-size bottles, the equivalent of a case) Salmanazar
    • 12L (16 standard-size bottles) – Balthazar
    • 15L (20 standard-size bottles) – Nebuchadnezzar

    Why do I buy magnums? They age better and slower than small bottles. The wine matures slower, which means it stays fresher and cleaner for a longer period of time. But when it gets down to it, it’s just damn fun to drink wine out of big bottles. It’s Texas. Bigger is better.

    If you’re going to a party, you’ll look really cool walking in with a magnum. For me, it fits my hand just perfectly.

    It’s very doable these days to find magnums and double magnums at your local wine shop. Contrary to popular belief, not every big bottle is expensive. Look for varietals like Gamay, Pinot Noir, or Italian reds, and regions like Beaujolais, Chianti, Southern Rhone, and the Sonoma Coast. You can always find a good supply of Champagne and rosé in magnums — it’s hard to get more celebratory than that!

    Eating the enemy

    I’ve been cooking and "eating the enemy" for years. It was a tradition for every Houston Texans tailgate I’ve ever hosted. Our tailgate team, Duck Fallas, was in Blue Lot 26 every game. The idea is to take the iconic foods of your opponent, cook them and eat them to take their mojo away. I believe that the Astros won the 2022 World Series because I made Philly cheesesteaks every single game they won. The games they lost, I didn’t cook cheesesteaks. Coincidence? I don’t think so.

    If you’re a Kansas City fan, it’s Philly cheesesteak time. Luckily, I have lots of tips. First, the bread. Hoagie rolls are available at any local grocery story, but if you know Montrose well, there’s a local bakery selling delicious fresh bread until 1pm every day. If you know, you know. (Editor's note: It's Royal Bakery at 1841 Fairview St.)

    For the meat, head on over to H Mart. On your way to the meat department, pick up onions and Korean green peppers, which oddly enough look like long hots, a classic Philly addition to the cheesesteak. The thinly sliced ribeye traditionally used for Korean barbecue is perfect for cheesesteaks. Just season it up, chop it up, and cook it on the flat top.

    For cheese, skip the argument by offering all the options — provolone, Cheese Wiz, and American. Plus, all three cheeses make the best cheesesteak anyway. Have plenty of sautéed mushrooms and onions. A friend of mine even introduced me to mayo on a cheesesteak — it’s good! Combine to make a build-your-own party.

    What to pair with a cheesesteak? Gamay all day.

    If you’re a Philly fan, it’s time to head to Kansas City for some barbecue! Ribs are speaking to me — I love them so much. Let’s go with pork ribs. Pick your favorite style — you’ll find them all in KC. I like to follow a 3-2-1 method: 3 hours of smoke unwrapped around 225 degrees, 2 hours wrapped in foil with a little sauce, 1 hour out of the foil back on the pit glazing with sauce. This method produces a sticky, delicious, sauce-all-over-your-face rib. Texas ribs are not traditionally as saucy, but I can respect Kansas City for requiring more napkins.

    I know Kansas City is also known for their burnt ends, but I’d visit my favorite barbecue joint to buy those.

    If you don’t feel like spending six hours smoking meat, they also named a steak after the city. You can’t go wrong with a Kansas City strip steak.

    Suggested pairings:

    • Ribs – Champagne, yes. Rosé, yes. Pretty much anything, yes.
    • Burnt Ends – Go find yourself a Big Red [soda]. A big red wine will work, too, like a Syrah.
    • Strip Steak – It’s still Cab season, y’all.

    I hope everyone has a fantastic Super Bowl. Maybe one day soon our opponents will be cooking banh mi and biryani paired with my favorite rosé to eat the enemy. Welcome home, Coach.

    -----

    Contact our Wine Guy via email at chris@chrisshepherdconcepts.com.

    Chris Shepherd won a James Beard Award for Best Chef: Southwest in 2014. Last year, he parted ways with Underbelly Hospitality, a restaurant group that currently operates four Houston restaurants: Wild Oats, GJ Tavern, Underbelly Burger, and Georgia James. The Southern Smoke Foundation, a non-profit he co-founded with his wife Lindsey Brown, has distributed more than $10 million to hospitality workers in crisis through its Emergency Relief Fund.

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    what's next for Paulie's

    Exclusive: Houston restaurateur brings two new Italian spots to Montrose

    Eric Sandler
    Feb 9, 2026 | 9:16 am
    Casa Carlo Michael Hoffman Davide De Angelis Charles Clark
    Photo courtesy of Brasserie 19
    Michael Hoffman, Davide De Angelis, and Charles Clark are partnering on Carlo and Casa Carlo.

    A veteran Houston restaurateur has claimed a prime Montrose location for two new establishments. Brasserie 19 owner Charles Clark will expand his portfolio with two Italian restaurants, a fast casual eatery, called Carlo, and a fine dining concept called Casa Carlo.

    Clark has leased the former Paulie’s and Camerata space at 1834 Westheimer and 1830 Westheimer, respectively, to bring Carlo and Casa Carlo to life. If all goes to plan, the restaurants will open in May, with casual Carlo open for lunch and dinner daily and Casa Carlo serving dinner — with lunch to follow once it’s settled in.

    Clark is partnering with two chefs he’s worked with and mentored for many years. Former Coppa executive chef Davide De Angelis will serve as executive chef for both Carlo and Casa Carlo, while Brasserie 19 executive chef Michael Hoffman will serve as a culinary director, with responsibilities at all three restaurants. Clark tells CultureMap he’d been looking for three years or so to find the right opportunity to partner with the two chefs.

    “Let’s have a restaurant where they can both have ownership without having to put up any money. It’s harder to open a restaurant than it was 15 years ago. It’s just expensive. It’s $1,000 a foot to build one. It used to be $400,” Clark says.

    “These guys are super talented. Davide is an immigrant from Naples, Italy. He started washing dishes in New Braunfels. Worked his way up to line cook. I brought him in as a line cook at Coppa. He became executive chef, running 5-600 covers a night.”

    “I still can’t believe that Charles believed in me and was so generous in giving me this incredible opportunity,” De Angelis tells CultureMap. “Without him, I wouldn’t be in this position — after all these years working for him, since he brought me into the company in 2017.”

    Similarly, Hoffman worked alongside Clark at Ibiza, his Spanish-inspired restaurant that closed in early 2020 after an almost 20-year run. Since then, Hoffman has led the kitchen at Brasserie 19, allowing Clark, 64, to step into a restaurateur role of overseeing the River Oaks staple’s lively dining room.

    Carlo and Casa Carlo

    Turning to the restaurants, Clark explains that Carlo will be a lot like Paulie’s, a fast casual, neighborhood-oriented Italian restaurant serving classics such as chicken parmesan, freshly made pasta, and pizza. Critically, he expects to keep the pricing similar to the famously affordable Paulie’s, which closed in December after 27 years.

    “I don’t want to alienate the Montrose crowd. I’m not going to double the prices and make it somewhere they don’t feel comfortable,” Clark says. “Hopefully, when they read about it and see the chefs are guys who’ve worked their way up, they’ll accept it more. It’s not going to be me. I’m going to be here [at Brasserie 19].”

    With a full-time chef in the kitchen, Clark says he expects the plating at Carlo to be a little more elevated. “Paulie’s was good, but I’m going to make it more chef-driven, where you can see the pastas are put together well,” he explains.

    “With Carlo we see it as an all-day restaurant where you can walk up and order from an array of classic pastas, sandwiches, and salads,” Hoffman adds. “Definitely see it as a place to serve the neighborhood, where you can get a quality, comforting meal without breaking the bank.”

    In addition to keeping Paulie’s moderate prices, Clark says he intends to preserve the restaurant’s open kitchen. Like Paulie’s, Carlo will serve cookies and other baked goods for dessert.

    Casa Carlo will be a more elevated, white tablecloth restaurant in the model of acclaimed New York establishments such as Cipriani, Carbone, Torrisi, and Don Angie, with a menu that takes inspiration from both De Angelis’ and Hoffman’s Italian heritage. That same standard will also apply to the service in the form of tableside preparations and a lengthy wine list.

    “We’d also like to include some seafood dishes inspired by Naples, where I was born, and dishes my mom used to make for me when I was a kid — like peperoni arrostiti stuffed with sausage and beef served with bagna cauda,” De Angelis says.

    “The recent field trip to New York was great to see the different avenues a modern Italian restaurant can be,” Hoffman adds.

    In terms of design, Clark says he’s inspired by restaurants such as The Polo Bar in New York. Plans call for an elegant bar and leather banquettes.

    Both restaurants will offer the same kind of customer-first service that’s the standard at Brasserie 19.

    “I think with both places we have to recognize what got us here,” Hoffman says. “Charles has always set the example of what happens when you create a space where the customer is welcomed and at ease and then receives a quality product.”

    B19 Update

    It’s been about four years since Clark and Grant Cooper ended their partnership in Clark Cooper Concepts. Clark became the owner of Brasserie 19, while Cooper created the Big Vibe Group that owns Flora Mexican Kitchen and Coppa Osteria.

    The River Oaks restaurant is flying higher than ever. Last year, Clark says he upgraded the restrooms and spent about $250,000 on Brasserie 19’s new patio. This year, he plans to invest in new dining room chairs and more comfortable banquettes.

    “We’re having record months. I had the busiest December I’ve ever had. I did $1.2 million in sales,” Clark says. Later, he adds, “I want to make it a classic restaurant like Galatoire’s in New Orleans where it’s kind of an institution.”

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