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    What's Eric Eating Episode 221

    Houston's oldest craft brewery secretly developing an all-new whiskey

    CultureMap Staff
    Dec 16, 2021 | 11:44 am

    Houston’s oldest craft brewery has quietly launched a new venture that could bear some tasty results. Speaking on this week’s episode of CultureMap’s “What’s Eric Eating” podcast, Saint Arnold Brewing Company founder Brock Wagner and brewmaster Aaron Inkrott shared news that the company has been testing recipes for its first-ever whiskey.

    Working on a still at Gulf Coast Distilling, Inkrott and the Saint Arnold brewers have been slowly developing recipes by experimenting with different grain bills, yeast strains, and other elements necessary to make Saint Arnold’s whiskey. Currently, the barrels are aging at Gulf Coast's facility in East Houston.

    “We’ve been working on different washes that we make at the brewery and take over there,” Wagner says. “We’ve been very focused on fermentation and the basic wash recipe, plus playing with different barrels, chars, and toasts. We seem to be zeroing on what we really like and starting to do a little bit of scaling on that.”

    “The amount of variables we came up with were dozens,” Inkrott adds. “We’d get encouraged as we made big steps, [such as] determining what yeast strain we want to use. Then picking three or four recipes that had potential on the small scale and scaling them up. Finally, tasting the shine that’s coming off the still. It’s all very exciting.”

    Wagner says that Saint Arnold has product that’s been aging for about a year. Saint Arnold has yet to determine how much time the whiskey needs to age before it will be released.

    “Like I’ve always said with beer, we don’t tell the beer when it’s done, it tells us. It’s going to be the same with whiskey,” Wagner says. “It’s not ready yet, but I can easily see it being ready in two years from when it was put in the barrel. We’re not planning on selling it or marketing anything until we’re really excited about what we have.”

    As for whether Saint Arnold will produce other spirits like vodka or gin, Wagner acknowledges they have some other ideas, but he’s not ready to disclose that yet. “I could tell you, but I’d have to kill you,” he jokes.

    Listen to the whole episode for the rest of the conversation, which covers a wide range of topics. They include: Inkrott’s recent promotion to brewmaster, Saint Arnold’s decision to cease production of its Superfine craft seltzers, and the struggles medium-sized breweries have faced since the start of the pandemic.

    Prior to the interview, co-host Felice Sloan joins CultureMap food editor Eric Sandler to discuss the news of the week. Their topics include: the imminent reopening of Little Pappas Seafood, Nashville hot chicken restaurant Hattie B’s plans for Houston; and what this year’s Houston Restaurant Weeks donation total means for the event’s future.

    In the restaurant of the week segment, Sloan and Sandler share first impressions of Maize, the new Mexican restaurant that recently opened in the Energy Corridor. They find much to like about chef Fabian Saldana’s menu but note a few potential areas for improvement, too.

    Saint Arnold founder Brock Wagner sampling the company's new whiskey.

    Brock Wagner Saint Arnold whiskey
    Courtesy of Saint Arnold Brewing Company
    Saint Arnold founder Brock Wagner sampling the company's new whiskey.
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    NY Times names pioneering Houston restaurant to 'greatest Mexican' list

    Eric Sandler
    Aug 14, 2026 | 9:00 am
    News, Hugo's, interior
    Photo by Julie Soefer Greater Houston Convention and Visitors Bureau
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    The New York Times included four Texas restaurants on its list of “41 of the Greatest Mexican Restaurants Across the United States.” Published Thursday, August 13, the Texas restaurants on the list are:

    • Burnt Bean Co., a barbecue restaurant in Seguin
    • Garcia’s Mexican Food, a Tex-Mex diner in San Antonio
    • Hugo’s, an interior Mexican restaurant in Houston
    • Nixta Taqueria, a creative taco concept in Austin

    Mostly written by James Beard Award-winning food writers Brett Anderson and Bill Esparza, the duo “visited dozens of Mexicans restaurants across the country over the course of a year” to compile the list, the Times explains.

    “This list is not an attempt to rank the best Mexican restaurants,” the duo write. “It is, rather, a mosaic of great places to eat, from food trucks to corner restaurants to tasting-menu counters. We hope it tells an expansive story about Mexican cooking in America today — a dynamic cuisine all its own, and as American as any food.”

    As Texas Monthly’s No. 1 ranked barbecue joint, Burnt Bean Co. is already well known for its smoked meats, but the Times also hails its Mexican cuisine, which includes its signature Sunday morning menu with menudo, barbacoa tacos, and brisket huevos rancheros.

    “You could call it Tex-Mex barbecue, but it’s just how barbecue is eaten in a state whose Mexican border is more than 1,200 miles long,” Anderson writes

    Founded in 1962, Anderson hails Garcia’s for its consistency, affordability, and pioneering combination of smoked brisket tacos. “Garcia’s is what an idealized American diner looks like in this part of the country: housemade salsas, tortillas instead of toast and plates of nourishing food at prices that explain why some customers visit multiple times a day,” he writes.

    The article credits Hugo’s for introducing the city’s diners to a deeper understanding of the breadth of Mexican cuisine. “Aged into a fine-dining lion in the cradle of Tex-Mex, Hugo’s still features longtime staples like banana leaf-wrapped cabrito, grilled octopus and sautéed chapulines, not to mention mezcals and Mexican wine,” Anderson writes.

    “I’m so glad I took a risk taking that train to Houston and, eventually, opening Hugo’s,” Ortega said in response to CultureMap’s request for comment about being included on the list. “I had no idea how it would turn out, I just knew was it was the food that I grew up eating and it was different than what I was seeing in Houston at the time. It was – and is – the food of my heart, my family, my ancestors. The foundation of Mexican cuisine is making everything from scratch which is what we continue to do every day at Hugo’s, and at our other concepts, too. I am humbled and thankful.”

    Operated by Edgar Rico and Sara Mardanbigi, Nixta has drawn lines of Austinites eager for its creative spin on tacos, which includes Asian ingredients such as fish sauce and furikake, as well as a dessert that nods to Mardanbigi’s Persian heritage.

    “The reservations-only tasting menu, served Thursday through Saturday, further showcases the couple’s stunning creativity and ambition,” writer Priya Krishna notes. “But most of the time Nixta remains what it always has been: a counter taquería of the utmost excellence.”

    Of course, knowing that the list isn’t a ranking makes it easier to understand the decision to pick Hugo’s as Houston’s representative — both for its historical significance and continued excellence. If Anderson and Esparza had decided to seek out a newer option, they could have considered restaurants such as, Michelin-starred Mexican tasting menu concept Tatemó; Modern Mexican-American restaurant Belly of the Beast, which is led by James Beard Award-winning chef Thomas Bille; Maximo, which is led by James Beard Award-winning chef Adrian Torres; or Casaema, the breakfast and lunch concept that earned a spot on the Times’ list of its favorite dishes of 2024.

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