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    A Houston favorite

    More than margaritas: Berryhill Baja Grill impresses with north-of-the-borderfare, too

    Marcy de Luna
    Dec 2, 2012 | 11:30 am
    • Berryhill Baja Grill's Nathan's Hot Dog, so called because it's made with aNathan's frankfurter.
      Photo courtesy of IntegratePR
    • Berryhill's lemonade is infused with mint leaves for 24 hours.
      Berryhill Baja Grill/Facebook
    • Berryhill's food truck is now on the prowl in Houston.
      Photo courtesy of IntegratePR
    • The Screw the Moon cocktail, a frozen screwdriver topped off with Blue MoonBeer.
      Photo courtesy of IntegratePR

    Soon to celebrate 20 years of business, Berryhill Baja Grill opened its first restaurant on Revere Street in 1993. Today, there are a dozen locations in the Houston area and outposts in Austin and Mexico, plus a new food truck on the prowl.

    The road to a multi-store franchise is especially notable when you consider that the company's namesake, Walter Berryhill, started the business out of a pushcart. When it came time to retire, having no heirs, Berryhill sold the name and tamale recipe to a Houston attorney for a mere $200 in the mid-1960s.

    Jeff Anon, the current CEO of Berryhill Hot Tamales Corp., headquartered in Houston, took the helm in 1995 and is the driving force behind the company's expansion and rise.

    I sampled some of the not-so-south-of-the-border items on the menu — surprisingly palate pleasing, they don't take a backseat in taste or quality.

    Though the tamales were the initial trademark of the brand, Berryhill has since become as well-loved for its strong margaritas as its fresh, Baja Mexican-styled cuisine. On a recent visit, though, I sampled some of the not-so-south-of-the-border items on the menu — surprisingly palate pleasing, they don't take a backseat in taste or quality.

    The Baja Burger, served on local baker Sheila Partin's jalapeño cheese bread, is quite tasty. The bread is a nice contrast of sweet to salty, perfect with pepper jack cheese, sautéed onions and red bell peppers and a side of fries.

    It pairs well with the "Screw the Moon," a frozen screwdriver topped off with Blue Moon Beer. It's hard to mess up a screwdriver, and the beer just gives it a lighter texture, almost spritzer-like.

    The Nathan's Hot Dog, so called because it's made with a Nathan's Famous Frankfurter, is a bacon-wrapped dog topped with homemade relish, pickled jalapeño, tomatoes and sautéed onions and served on a buttered bun. Although there was a little too much bread for my taste, you can never go wrong with bacon.

    Wash it down with a lemonade, infused with mint leaves for 24 hours and "loaded" upon request. "Just ask the bartender to add shot of vodka or rum," Anon suggested.

    Though these menu items break the mold, the more expectedly Mexican fare is always a safe bet at this Houston favorite. Especially the margaritas, which are only $3 every Saturday from open to close.

    "Berryhill's margarita recipe has been the same since day one," said Anon, who assures that the restaurant uses only high-quality tequila and fresh juices. Judging by its popularity, Berryhill has its margarita mix down pat — why tamper with what works?

    That's not to say that other things don't change, particularly on the ever-evolving drink menu that's constantly crafted by bartenders and customers. Next time you’re at Berryhill, suggest away.

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    news/restaurants-bars

    firing up Montrose

    New Houston seafood restaurant adds live-fire flair to Japanese flavors

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 3, 2025 | 10:02 am
    Casa Kenji restaurant
    Photo by Becca Wright
    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    An ambitious new seafood restaurant is coming to Montrose next week. Casa Kenji will open on Tuesday, December 9.

    Located in the former Andiron space (3201 Allen Pkwy), Casa Kenji is the first Houston project for New Orleans restaurateur Malachi DuPre, a former LSU standout who played briefly in the NFL before establishing Kenji and Kenji Kazoku restaurants in New Orleans. Together with former LSU teammate John “B-John” Ballis and Houston chef Bigler “Biggie” Cruz, Casa Kenji will blend Latin and Japanese influences while also incorporating live-fire elements into the restaurant’s dishes. Cruz, whose resume includes a lengthy stint at Uchi as well as working at critically acclaimed Houston seafood restaurant Golfstrømmen, tells CultureMap that Casa Kenji’s approach is the first time he can be himself in the kitchen.

    “My perfect restaurant was always based on the live fire and sushi combination,” Cruz says. “My mom cooked with wood for my entire life. The live fire creates completely different flavors. The smoky flavors, the sear from the charcoal — they create a different type of memory for me.”

    The use of live fire techniques will permeate Casa Kenji’s menus in ways both big and small. For example, diners will be able to feast on prawns grilled directly on charcoal and served with yuzu chili garlic, or savor lightly seared Japanese wagyu tataki paired with mushrooms. Even raw dishes will benefit from the restaurant’s wood-burning grill and stove.

    “Every vegetable we peel, we make into an ash that’s a topping for the dishes. It adds a different layer of flavor,” Cruz says. Look for it in the scallop aguachile, among others.

    Even vegetables get a smoky component, as in a cabbage dish that’s braised with dashi and soy sauce before being roasted and served with an onion soubise that Cruz says he developed based on techniques he learned from Golfstrømmen chef Christopher Haatuft.

    “It’s rich, super savory, with smoky layers, and you get brightness from the shiso gremolata. I think it will be a signature dish for us,” the chef says.

    One change to the interior is the addition of a six-seat omakase counter that looks into the kitchen. Cruz promises those diners will have an even more elevated experience than the restaurant’s regular menu, including ingredients such as Japanese wagyu and premium fish flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market.

    Beyond its cuisine, Casa Kenji hopes to stand out with its spacious outdoor patio. Since very few Japanese-inspired restaurants in Houston offer outdoor seating, it should appeal to diners who want a little vitamin D along with their tuna crudo.

    “We’re proud to showcase the craft and creativity that defines Casa Kenji,” co-founders Cruz, Ballis, and DuPre said in a statement. “With chef Bigler Cruz at the helm — blending live-fire technique with the discipline of Japanese tradition — we’re equally honored and excited to share a unique concept that is truly rooted in passion, culture, and community.”

    Casa Kenji will be open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday beginning at 4 pm. Reservations are available on Resy.

    Casa Kenji restaurant

    Photo by Becca Wright

    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    news/restaurants-bars
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