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    It's all in the family

    Surviving in a grocer eat grocer world: Rice Epicurean succeeds by staying small& thinking big

    Marci Gilbert
    Nov 26, 2010 | 1:23 pm
    • Rice Epicurean founder William Levy, right, talking to a customer
    • And how it looks today. This is the salad bar deli area with chefs preparingfresh foods.
    • Great selection
    • Bountiful produce at the Tanglewood store
    • The original Rice Epicurean
    • Inside the original Rice Epicurean
    • Alfred Friedlander, from left, William Levy and Joel Levy
    • A night shot of current store at Tanglewood/Post Oak

    When See's Candies closed its shop in The Galleria in the mid-1990s, Edna Levy, the wife of one of the founders of Rice Epicurean Markets, realized she would have no place in Houston to buy her favorite chocolates. So her son, Joel, quickly contacted the candy maker asking to be the first retailer in the nation to sell See's Candies in a custom-built shop inside a grocery store and they struck a deal.

    In Houston's brutally competitive supermarket world, the leading contenders have to constantly come up with new ways to keep customers coming in. For more than 73 years, the owners of Rice Epicurean Markets, Houston’s oldest family-owned specialty grocery store chain, have sought to stay in the fray by remaining close to their roots — providing great service, knowing their customers, and finding the best products for shoppers.

    The importance of family

    Family is a large part of the Rice experience. Not only do members of the founding family still run the business, attend food shows, and explore growth opportunities, but employees have worked there for decades, and many of the food brands that are sold in the stores are produced by small family businesses from around the world.

    Being a small family business also makes it easier for many companies to get their products into the five Rice stores in the Houston area. If, while on vacation, vice president and director of specialty foods Scott Silverman sees something at a food show or at a restaurant that he thinks his customers would eat up, he can order it on the spot and have it shipped directly to the stores without working with distributors or having months of paperwork and shelf space approval. It might even make it to the shelves before he makes it back to Houston.

    “Because we are small, it is to our benefit and theirs that we can get their product in fast,” Silverman said. “When we hear of something that our customers read about or tried out of town, we react quickly. No company is too small for us, when it could take them up to a year to get into Whole Foods.”

    Local competition

    Because Rice has everyday products and specialty ones as well, it competes with everyone.

    “Our competitors are Walgreens, Central Market, Williams-Sonoma and Specs, among others,” Silverman said. “What makes us different is our ease of shopping for our customers and our variety of products.”

    Executives realize that many grandparents come into the store, so they place holiday greeting cards and children’s related gifts with the home décor holiday gifts. They know their shoppers are well traveled, so they carry products from all over the world, like butter biscuits from England, gingersnaps from Sweden, and peanuts from Virginia.

    “You can find Christmas around the world in our store,” Silverman said.

    And instead of doing all of their shopping at Rice during the holiday season, many shoppers only visit the store for certain products like Amish Wedding Spiced Peaches or New England Cran Pepper Jelly. Rice executives anticipate what will be hot this holiday season, like Linda’s Gourmet Latkes and baking emulsions instead of extracts, and prepare their shelves accordingly.

    Customer Service

    To stand out, Rice provides some touches other stores don't. They offer private charge accounts for personal or corporate use, with monthly billing, and stocks hard-to-find ingredients like Hammons Black Walnuts (for baking, not eating raw), which are the walnuts that Blue Bell uses in its ice creams. They were selling POM Pomegranate Juice before it exploded in popularity, and they added Greek yogurts to their dairy shelves and tart yogurts to their yogurt bar before the fad took hold.

    Rice rewards customers with coupons for future grocery visits and gift cards to restaurants around town. And the chain supports local and Texas-based vendors. It recently started carrying Logan Farms Hams instead of Honey Baked Hams because Logan is local and Silverman believes customers appreciate that.

    He realizes his customers aren’t baking Duncan Hines cakes — they want a more upscale brand — so Rice offers many varieties of the more exclusive Stonewall Kitchen cake mixes. In the end, for Silverman and the Rice team, it comes back to family.

    “For every 12 boxes that we sell of this cake mix, I know that there are at least 24 memories of a grandmother and her grandchild who will bake this cake together for (the holidays),” Silverman said. “We love that and that’s why we want people to buy.”

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    news/restaurants-bars
    series/good-eats-2

    meet the tastemakers

    These 10 restaurants and pop-ups serve Houston's best sandwiches

    Eric Sandler
    Mar 9, 2026 | 4:54 pm
    Winnie's Peacemaker po boy
    Photo by Emily Jaschke
    Winnie's famous Peacemaker po' boy.

    Surely one of the most tired debates in Houston food is whether or not the city has good sandwiches. Usually, these complaints come from East Coast transplants who are disappointed by the lack of cold cut, Italian deli-style sandwiches.

    Allow us to illustrate the point with this year’s wildcard category in the 2026 CultureMap Tastemaker Awards, Best Sandwich.

    The nominees in this category demonstrate that Houston restaurants produce an endless array of banh mi, tortas, po’ boys, wraps, and, yes, one of the premier Jewish delis anywhere in the country. In addition to the old school favorites, a new crop of sandwich-obsessed pop-ups are raising the game.

    Who will win? Find out at our Tastemaker Awards ceremony April 16 at Silver Street Studios. Dine on bites from this year’s nominees, sip cocktails from our sponsors, and witness as we reveal the winners. Buy your tickets now. A limited number of Early Bird General Admission tickets remain. VIP tickets offer early entry, valet parking, and more perks. All tickets will sell out before the event, so don't wait.

    B'Tween Sandwich Co.
    After a lengthy stint as Greg Gatlin’s right hand at Gatlin’s BBQ and Gatlin’s Fins & Feathers, Wallace went out on her own with this sandwich pop-up. In addition to her familiar biscuit sandwiches, Wallace has been collaborating with other restaurants, creating a Cajun fish sandwich at fellow nominee Stuffed Belly and a butter chicken sandwich at Tastemaker Awards winner Burger Bodega. Discover Wallace’s latest creations every first and third Sunday of the month at the Rice Village farmers market.

    Bayou Butchers
    At this pop-up, chef Garrett Rice showcases his knowledge of meat. He dry ages ribeyes for Bayou Butchers’ signature Philly cheesesteak and makes his own pistachio-studden mortadella. Recently, he collaborated with chef Gabe Medina on a Spam sandwich that sold out quickly.

    Cali Sandwich & Pho
    For more than 30 years, this Midtown restaurant has been serving classic Vietnamese fare to Houstonians who appreciate a good deal on a tasty meal. The signature barbecue pork banh mi is always popular, as are the shredded chicken and steamed BBQ pork. While the days of $2 sandwiches may be over, Cali still offers a very satisfying lunch that only costs about $5.

    Craft Pita
    Diners may think of this Lebanese restaurant as primarily a bowl concept, but chef-owner Raffi Nasr knows a thing or two about sandwiches. Last year, he jumped on the viral chicken Caesar wrap with his own spin that used Craft Pita’s rotisserie chicken and its garlicky toum. More recently, he s introduced a crispy shawarma with a griddled pita and chicken skin for extra crunch.

    Kenny & Ziggy's
    Houstonians of all creeds flock to this Jewish deli for sandwiches that range from classics — such as corned beef and pastrami that are cured and smoked in-house — to more over-the-top creations like the Luck Be a Latke (brisket served between two potato pancakes) and the mammoth Zellagabetsky, an eight-layer, $116 sandwich that will best even the heartiest appetites. K&Z’s hot sandwiches, including an open-faced turkey with gravy, a Philly cheesesteak, and a classic French dip, are similarly can’t-miss.

    Local Foods
    With five Houston-area locations and two Austin outposts, this restaurant is among Houston’s most successful sandwich purveyors. Standouts include the “Crunchy” Chicken with its nut crumble and buttermilk ranch; the Gulf Seafood with its mixture of shrimp and crab that’s kicked up with green goddess dressing; and the Truffled Egg on a chewy pretzel bun. Vegetable sides sourced from area farms ensure the restaurant lives up to its name.

    Stuffed Belly
    Masterchef winner and James Beard Award finalist Christine Ha shares her love of sandwiches at this fast casual spot in Spring Branch. While Ha has built her reputation by making Vietnamese dishes, Stuffed Belly leans more traditionally American with options such as a patty melt, tuna salad, egg salad, and a grilled cheese. Specials, like this month’s Fish N Chips that gets added crunch from crushed kettle chips, ensure regulars always have something new to try.

    Thien An Sandwiches
    Like Cali Sandwich, this restaurant has built a devoted following for its affordable banh mi. The restaurant serves all the usual fillings, with the dac biet combo with pate among the standouts. Save room for the signature banh xeo, a crispy rice crepe stuffed with pork, shrimp, and bean sprouts.

    Winnie's
    This Midtown bar and restaurant would have earned a nomination solely for its definitive shrimp po’ boy, an overstuffed sandwich on bread from New Orleans’ iconic Leidenheimer Baking Company. Of course, the restaurant goes far beyond that with essentials like the Fried Chicken Crunch Wrap Supreme (made with Cool Ranch Doritos, of course) and weekly specials from the ever-restless mind of co-owner Graham Laborde. Top tier cocktails and some of Houston’s best wings only enhance Winnie’s appeal.

    Yuma
    This pop-up, which will soon open its first brick-and-mortar location on Washington Avenue, has built its reputation by blending Cuban and Brazilian flavors. Its menu includes a classic Cuban sandwich, the Sampa Gallo chicken sandwich, and the A Caipira, a Brazilian take on a cheesesteak. Yuma also creates sandwiches inspired by other cultures, such as the Vietnamese-style El Penny Cubano Banh Mi — made with mojo pork and ham that’s topped with Gruyere, garlic aioli, pate, pickled carrots, daikon, cilantro, and jalapeno.

    ----

    The Tastemaker Awards ceremony is sponsored in Houston by Maker's Mark, Culinary Khancepts, NTX LVL Event, Shutto and more to be announced. A portion of proceeds will benefit our nonprofit partner, the Southern Smoke Foundation.

    Winnie's Peacemaker po boy
    Photo by Emily Jaschke

    Winnie's famous Peacemaker po' boy.

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