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    Major Chef Fallout

    A Galleria restaurant Johnny Cowboy from Katy can enjoy: French spot "more American" after chef departure

    Eric Sandler
    Oct 31, 2013 | 4:27 pm

    Diners weren't the only people surprised that Philippe Schmit bolted the kitchen of his eponymous Galleria restaurant Philippe.

    "It was a very quick process. It was a discussion between the ownership and chef Philippe, and then I was called to the office and said this is what we’re doing," Philippe general manager Dallas Easterly says.

    The chef tells CultureMap the restaurant is becoming "more American with a French twist."

    Although Schmit remains a limited partner, he's no longer involved in the restaurant's day to day operations. That falls to Easterly and newly promoted executive chef Manuel Pucha, whose relationship with Schmit dates back to 1994 when they worked together in New York. Pucha moved to Houston with Schmit to open Bistro Moderne and reunited with him to open Philippe.

    Pucha tells CultureMap the restaurant is becoming "more American with a French twist."

    Easterly explains that he discovered a problem when he went through the restaurant's reservation book and noticed who was dining at the restaurant. "When Johnny Cowboy from Katy, his girlfriend says, ‘Honey, please take me to this restaurant I’ve heard all about it. I really want to go here.’ And he comes to town and reads our menu. It was apparent in the past that he didn’t understand our menu by the way it was written, because he would order a hamburger or sliders."

    To resolve that problem, the restaurant has rewritten its menu to make descriptions more appealing to diners who aren't familiar with French food.

    "We’ve written them so it’s more in English, and people can understand them," Easterly says. "We’ve changed their descriptions and now they’re selling much better." He cites the duck confit as one example. In another instance, they removed the words "beef cheeks" from a dish's name.

    They've also added soups and sandwiches to the lunch menu to appeal to diners who need to eat in 45 minutes or less. "You still have time to get back to the office before the boss says 'Where you have you been?' " Easterly says. "But there's room for fancier lunch fare, too. We changed from having a master chef’s lunch. Now we call it a gourmet lunch. That is more of an hour and 10 minute experience."

    Easterly says that the goal is to offer diners a choice. "You can come in and enjoy quickly and have a very nice lunch, or you can sit and enjoy and have a more leisurely lunch."

    Other changes to the food include a new, thick-cut pork chop and a switch to all USDA Prime beef. "Even for the steak tartare we used diced filet mignon. The flavor is better than before," Pucha says.

    Easterly says that some of the dishes remain the same. "There’s eight dishes that are Philippe classics; that won’t ever change as long as the name is Philippe. They’re his specialty dishes." Also, beverage director Vanessa Trevino Boyd will continue to maintain one of Houston's most intriguing wine lists.

    The restaurant's regulars have responded well to the changes. "They've made nice comments. They were concerned when they heard the news, (but they say) it has the same quality and taste," Easterly says. Pucha says he recently prepared a tasting menu of new dishes for a couple who had recently returned from a trip to Paris where they eat at a three-star Michelin restaurant. Pucha says they told him "the food here is on par."

    Anyone predicting doom for Philippe might consider the counterexample of Midtown institution Damian's Cucina Italiana. Although Damian Mandola left his Italian restaurant to launch Carrabba's as a chain, the restaurant has thrived thanks to a steady hand in the kitchen and familiar faces in the dining room.

    If Easterly and Pucha are successful, Philippe could enjoy a similar tenure of success.

    New executive chef Manuel Pucha has worked with Philippe Schmit since 1994.

    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    firing up Montrose

    New Houston seafood restaurant adds live-fire flair to Japanese flavors

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 3, 2025 | 10:02 am
    Casa Kenji restaurant
    Photo by Becca Wright
    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    An ambitious new seafood restaurant is coming to Montrose next week. Casa Kenji will open on Tuesday, December 9.

    Located in the former Andiron space (3201 Allen Pkwy), Casa Kenji is the first Houston project for New Orleans restaurateur Malachi DuPre, a former LSU standout who played briefly in the NFL before establishing Kenji and Kenji Kazoku restaurants in New Orleans. Together with former LSU teammate John “B-John” Ballis and Houston chef Bigler “Biggie” Cruz, Casa Kenji will blend Latin and Japanese influences while also incorporating live-fire elements into the restaurant’s dishes. Cruz, whose resume includes a lengthy stint at Uchi as well as working at critically acclaimed Houston seafood restaurant Golfstrømmen, tells CultureMap that Casa Kenji’s approach is the first time he can be himself in the kitchen.

    “My perfect restaurant was always based on the live fire and sushi combination,” Cruz says. “My mom cooked with wood for my entire life. The live fire creates completely different flavors. The smoky flavors, the sear from the charcoal — they create a different type of memory for me.”

    The use of live fire techniques will permeate Casa Kenji’s menus in ways both big and small. For example, diners will be able to feast on prawns grilled directly on charcoal and served with yuzu chili garlic, or savor lightly seared Japanese wagyu tataki paired with mushrooms. Even raw dishes will benefit from the restaurant’s wood-burning grill and stove.

    “Every vegetable we peel, we make into an ash that’s a topping for the dishes. It adds a different layer of flavor,” Cruz says. Look for it in the scallop aguachile, among others.

    Even vegetables get a smoky component, as in a cabbage dish that’s braised with dashi and soy sauce before being roasted and served with an onion soubise that Cruz says he developed based on techniques he learned from Golfstrømmen chef Christopher Haatuft.

    “It’s rich, super savory, with smoky layers, and you get brightness from the shiso gremolata. I think it will be a signature dish for us,” the chef says.

    One change to the interior is the addition of a six-seat omakase counter that looks into the kitchen. Cruz promises those diners will have an even more elevated experience than the restaurant’s regular menu, including ingredients such as Japanese wagyu and premium fish flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market.

    Beyond its cuisine, Casa Kenji hopes to stand out with its spacious outdoor patio. Since very few Japanese-inspired restaurants in Houston offer outdoor seating, it should appeal to diners who want a little vitamin D along with their tuna crudo.

    “We’re proud to showcase the craft and creativity that defines Casa Kenji,” co-founders Cruz, Ballis, and DuPre said in a statement. “With chef Bigler Cruz at the helm — blending live-fire technique with the discipline of Japanese tradition — we’re equally honored and excited to share a unique concept that is truly rooted in passion, culture, and community.”

    Casa Kenji will be open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday beginning at 4 pm. Reservations are available on Resy.

    Casa Kenji restaurant

    Photo by Becca Wright

    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    news/restaurants-bars
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