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    Food for Thought

    Small plates in the land of two-pound Porterhouses

    Marene Gustin
    Nov 1, 2009 | 6:00 am
    • Small bits are big on the enoteca menu at Quattro.
    • But supersized Porterhouse steaks are still popular around Houston.
    • And you'll get no complaints about the big deli sandwiches at Kenny & Ziggy's.

    Texan-sized appetites will always crave big meals — someone must be ordering that 26-ounce Porterhouse at Pappas Bros. Steakhouse. But the latest trend sweeping Houston eateries is a whole lot smaller.

    "Downsizing" is popping up everywhere in small plate menus, tapas and cicchetti. They’re perfect for those who love to make a meal out of appetizers.

    “You eat less and it’s cheaper, too,” says Alberto Alfonzo, owner of Tintos Spanish Restaurant & Wine Bar, summing up the appeal of his tapas offerings.

    That double whammy of being known as "fat city" and the recession finally hitting Houston has created a "perfect storm" for the small plate trend. And, frankly, Alfonzo was delighted by the one-two punch when he opened his tapas joint and wine shop this summer, where he says he’s already meeting projections.

    Whether noshing on Spanish tapas or Italian cicchetti, eating small usually means you pay under $10 for a plate. If dining with friends, you can sample several items, keep your waistline in check and walk out without emptying your wallet— all temptations designed to get eaters back into recession-crunched restaurants.

    Several other longtime restaurateurs have joined this small plate party. Marco Wiles expanded from his fine-fine dining Da Marco to a wine and pizza place called Dolce Vita and this year added Poscol, a vinoteca featuring small plates of cured meats, Panini, cheeses, risotto and wonderful fried spaghetti.

    And over at Giacomo's Ciba e Vine , chef Lynette Hawkins has taken her mastery of Italian cuisine and shrunk it from the large portions she used to whip up at La Mora into tiny tasty offerings, from pocket-sized pasta to four-bite lamb meatballs.

    Even the Four Seasons Hotel Houston’s Quattro restaurant is now embracing downsizing.

    “We’re so tired of hotel dining that’s so formal, with white table cloths and tuxedoed waiters and high prices,” sighs the hotel’s Amy Popp. “Now we’re all about the small plates.”

    Chef Meredith Manee launched Quattro’s enoteca dinner menu in October featuring Italian nibbles and noshes for $9 and under that seems to be drawing a much more relaxed crowd that appreciates the ease of table sharing and the reduced prices. The menu changes weekly and the restaurant also offers 50 wines in three- and six-ounce pours.

    Speaking of wine, the recent uptick of Italian small plates may have begun with Houston’s love affair with wine bars. Seems like you can’t swing a dead cat these days without hitting a new vino bar and all of them are offering small plates.

    From Cova Hand Selected Wines to The Tasting Rooms to new-kid-on-the-block Block 7 Wine Company, Houston wine bars show no signs of decreasing in popularity — or little dishes.

    More recently we got the slider craze, little bitty burgers with a big fan base. Whether as appetizers on steakhouse menus, bowling alley food at Lucky Strike Lanes or even in their very own restaurant Little Bigs, sliders are everywhere.

    Despite Texans’ legendary appetites, smaller plates actually date back decades, if you count Luby’s Lu Ann Platter — a half portion entrée and two sides — which debuted in the 70’s and even spawned a King of the Hill character.

    But hearty eaters needn’t worry, the other side of Houston dining still loves chicken fried steaks the size of the plate, Kenny & Ziggy’s deli sandwiches piled a mile high with pastrami and Pappas Bros. Seafood House’s "all you can eat lobster" Wednesdays.

    So maybe we won’t be losing that "fat city" moniker anytime soon.

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    the pho will flow

    Growing Houston Vietnamese restaurant hustles into hot Katy neighborhood

    Eric Sandler
    May 13, 2026 | 3:30 pm
    Saigon Hustle Katy Cinco Ranch
    Courtesy of Saigon Hustle
    Saigon Hustle's new Cinco Ranch location is now open.

    A growing Houston Vietnamese restaurant has arrived in Katy. Saigon Hustle is now open in Cinco Ranch.

    Located at 23703 Cinco Ranch Blvd., the Houston area’s third Saigon Hustle began a quiet soft opening this Monday, May 11, and will celebrate its grand opening on Thursday, May 14. Like its siblings in Garden Oaks and Spring Branch, the restaurant will serve its familiar menu of banh mi, egg rolls, spring rolls, and rice dishes, as well as the pho that was added to the menu when Spring Branch opened in October 2024.

    Beverage options include both Vietnamese iced coffee and freshly-brewed jasmine teas.

    The Cinco Ranch location seats approximately 60 people. It also offers curbside pickup and delivery via third-party apps. Co-founder Sandy Nguyen said the restaurant had been looking at Cinco Ranch for awhile.

    “Our guests out here have been asking us to come to them, and it finally felt like the right moment to plant a flag in Katy,” Nguyen said in a statement. “We grew up in Houston, and bringing the food we love to a community we love is everything. This is more than a new address — it's a hometown moment for us.”

    As part of its continued growth, Saigon Hustle recently hired chef Justin Yoakum as its vice president of operations. Yoakum previously served as director of operations for Culinary Khancepts, the Houston restaurant group behind Liberty Kitchen, State Fare, Leo’s River Oaks, and others.

    “Justin has been wonderful,” Nguyen writes in an email. “He's been the leader we have been needing to further the next steps in our expansion. We are excited to have him. He's already proven to be such a great asset to the brand and brings a lot of energy!”

    Originally opened by Nguyen and her business partner Cassie Ghaffar, Saigon Hustle is now backed by Savory Fund, a Utah-based venture capital firm that’s invested in a diverse range of concepts including Austin-based, Detroit-style pizzeria Via 313; breakfast concept Hash Kitchen; and Pincho Burgers & Kebabs, a Miami-based restaurant with locations in Memorial City, Conroe, and Cypress. Savory has committed to helping it grow to as many as 40 units in Texas and the Midwest.

    To celebrate its grand opening, the Katy location will offer a number of promotions and giveaways, including:

    • Free banh mi for the first 100 customers on May 14.
    • A block party with a lion dance beginning at 6:30 on May 14.
    • Free Saigon Hustle for a year sweepstakes: All visitors to the location are eligible to win. See store or website for contest rules.
    • Buy-one-get-one-free Banh Mi: For customers who sign up for the Saigon Hustle Rewards loyalty program
    • Red envelopes: In a nod to the restaurant’s Vietnamese heritage, customers may receive a red envelope containing a discount, giveaway, or prize.

    “We wanted opening week to feel like a block party, not just a ribbon cutting. Free food, music,

    neighbors, and the team that's going to be feeding this community for years to come,” Ghaffar added. “From the lion dance to the red envelopes, every detail of opening week is a love letter to our culture and to Cinco Ranch.”

    Saigon Hustle Cinco Ranch is open daily from 11 am-11 pm.

    Saigon Hustle Katy Cinco Ranch

    Courtesy of Saigon Hustle

    Saigon Hustle's new Cinco Ranch location is now open.

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