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    Food for Thought

    Small plates in the land of two-pound Porterhouses

    Marene Gustin
    Nov 1, 2009 | 6:00 am
    • Small bits are big on the enoteca menu at Quattro.
    • But supersized Porterhouse steaks are still popular around Houston.
    • And you'll get no complaints about the big deli sandwiches at Kenny & Ziggy's.

    Texan-sized appetites will always crave big meals — someone must be ordering that 26-ounce Porterhouse at Pappas Bros. Steakhouse. But the latest trend sweeping Houston eateries is a whole lot smaller.

    "Downsizing" is popping up everywhere in small plate menus, tapas and cicchetti. They’re perfect for those who love to make a meal out of appetizers.

    “You eat less and it’s cheaper, too,” says Alberto Alfonzo, owner of Tintos Spanish Restaurant & Wine Bar, summing up the appeal of his tapas offerings.

    That double whammy of being known as "fat city" and the recession finally hitting Houston has created a "perfect storm" for the small plate trend. And, frankly, Alfonzo was delighted by the one-two punch when he opened his tapas joint and wine shop this summer, where he says he’s already meeting projections.

    Whether noshing on Spanish tapas or Italian cicchetti, eating small usually means you pay under $10 for a plate. If dining with friends, you can sample several items, keep your waistline in check and walk out without emptying your wallet— all temptations designed to get eaters back into recession-crunched restaurants.

    Several other longtime restaurateurs have joined this small plate party. Marco Wiles expanded from his fine-fine dining Da Marco to a wine and pizza place called Dolce Vita and this year added Poscol, a vinoteca featuring small plates of cured meats, Panini, cheeses, risotto and wonderful fried spaghetti.

    And over at Giacomo's Ciba e Vine , chef Lynette Hawkins has taken her mastery of Italian cuisine and shrunk it from the large portions she used to whip up at La Mora into tiny tasty offerings, from pocket-sized pasta to four-bite lamb meatballs.

    Even the Four Seasons Hotel Houston’s Quattro restaurant is now embracing downsizing.

    “We’re so tired of hotel dining that’s so formal, with white table cloths and tuxedoed waiters and high prices,” sighs the hotel’s Amy Popp. “Now we’re all about the small plates.”

    Chef Meredith Manee launched Quattro’s enoteca dinner menu in October featuring Italian nibbles and noshes for $9 and under that seems to be drawing a much more relaxed crowd that appreciates the ease of table sharing and the reduced prices. The menu changes weekly and the restaurant also offers 50 wines in three- and six-ounce pours.

    Speaking of wine, the recent uptick of Italian small plates may have begun with Houston’s love affair with wine bars. Seems like you can’t swing a dead cat these days without hitting a new vino bar and all of them are offering small plates.

    From Cova Hand Selected Wines to The Tasting Rooms to new-kid-on-the-block Block 7 Wine Company, Houston wine bars show no signs of decreasing in popularity — or little dishes.

    More recently we got the slider craze, little bitty burgers with a big fan base. Whether as appetizers on steakhouse menus, bowling alley food at Lucky Strike Lanes or even in their very own restaurant Little Bigs, sliders are everywhere.

    Despite Texans’ legendary appetites, smaller plates actually date back decades, if you count Luby’s Lu Ann Platter — a half portion entrée and two sides — which debuted in the 70’s and even spawned a King of the Hill character.

    But hearty eaters needn’t worry, the other side of Houston dining still loves chicken fried steaks the size of the plate, Kenny & Ziggy’s deli sandwiches piled a mile high with pastrami and Pappas Bros. Seafood House’s "all you can eat lobster" Wednesdays.

    So maybe we won’t be losing that "fat city" moniker anytime soon.

    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    farewell, fleming's

    Steakhouse chain's Upper Kirby outpost will shutter after 25 years

    Eric Sandler
    Mar 23, 2026 | 9:00 am
    Fleming's Prime Steakhouse
    Fleming's/Facebook
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    The Upper Kirby location of a popular steakhouse will soon say goodbye. Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar will close on April 18.

    In response to CultureMap’s request for comment, Elizabeth Daly, director of media & community relations for Fleming’s parents company Bloomin’ Brands, writes that the restaurant chose not to renew its lease at 2405 West Alabama Street.

    “Team members will have the opportunity to transfer to another restaurant,” Daly adds. “We appreciate the community’s support the past 25 years and hope to serve them at one of our other Houston-area Fleming’s locations.”

    Those other Houston-area locations are in Town & Country Village (788 W. Sam Houston Parkway North) and at The Woodlands Mall (1201 Lake Woodlands Drive, Suite 305).

    As Daly notes, Fleming’s opened its Upper Kirby location in 2002. In the early days, it benefitted from the leadership of Maeve Pesquera, who worked for Tony Vallone prior to joining the company. Sam Governale followed, eventually leaving in 2017 to open River Oaks-area restaurant Emmaline.

    Between now and April 18, the restaurant’s fans have time to visit for specials such as its Tomahawk Tuesday promotion —a 35-ounce steak with salads, sides, and dessert for $165 — as well as a two-course, Easter brunch on Saturday, April 4, and Sunday, April 5.

    Fleming’s is only the latest Houston steakhouse to close. In January, Perry’s Steakhouse & Grille closed its location in the River Oaks Shopping Center. Last year, Andiron, an upscale steakhouse from the owner of The Pit Room and Candente, shuttered after only two years.

    closingsflemings steakhousenews-you-can-eat
    news/restaurants-bars

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