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    You're not in Midtown anymore

    West Ave's new posh St. Genevieve is a weekend wonderland of people watching —with a Bloody Mary Bar

    Caroline Gallay
    Oct 17, 2011 | 11:26 am
    • The bar at Saint Genevieve
      Photo via Saint Genevieve/Facebook
    • Photo via Saint Genevieve/Facebook
    • Champagne sorbet cocktails
      Photo via Saint Genevieve/Facebook

    My first visit to West Ave's new St. Genevieve unfortunately didn't include a stop at the establishment's build-your-own Bloody Mary bar.

    But it did include an amazingly coiffed-yet-bro-like bouncer, a self-entitled socialite sighting, a horrendous dirty martini and a much better replacement watermelon mojito. And a lot of fun.

    I knew I wasn't in Midtown (where owners Jeff and Darren Van Delden also own Wonder Bar and Red Door) anymore when our all-female birthday dinner group, having just dined at Alto, had to wait in a thick crowd at the entrance while the above-mentioned bouncer — in the skinniest of jeans, the most pressed of shirts and the most impeccably mussed hair — hand picked entrants.

    We made it through after three humiliating rejection rounds, but not before spotting a certain store-owning socialite chide the young man for not knowing who her friends were. They were ready to spend some serious money on those martinis.

    We made it through after three humiliating rejection rounds, but not before spotting a certain store-owning socialite chide the young man for not knowing who her friends were.

    Once inside, we were impressed by the elegant interiors — all-white boat house-inspired ladies' rooms; crisp, pleated back-lit wall treatments above a white marble bar, dark wood accents and rich velvet draperies — and overcome by the people-watching.

    The age of the crowd varied wildly from barely twentysomethings to guys who could have fathered this twentysomething in a second family. It all made for a more interesting night, and if you were ever considering an augmentation of any kind, this would be the weekend spot to check out the latest models.

    Perhaps sensing the preferred pastime of guests, the bar includes two patios from which patrons can stare down at the comings and goings downstairs at Eddie V's, across the way at Cru or just across the bar at each other. St. Genevieve is named for the patron saint of Paris, after all — a city so preoccupied with watching people that all the café chairs face the sidewalk.

    The bar service was slow, but it was packed and there were waitresses available if you preferred to post up and stay put. Less understandable was the bartender (perhaps hired for his good looks) taking three shakers and close to 10 minutes to pour four dirty martinis. When your barman forgets the vodka and has to pour it on top at the end, it's not a good sign.

    Far, far better were the Cubanos — a classic, well-done mojito augmented with crushed watermelon. They were so refreshing, we saw an admirable number of men with the pink drinks in their hands.

    I'm resolved to return when there's more shoulder room to try out that BM bar and sample the happy hour — $6 prosecco and cheese fries, $7 Titos drinks and reuben empanadas, $8 mojitos and flatbread pizza, among other apps and bevs in the $6, $7 and $8 format. The small plates were put together by Haven's Kevin Naderi, too, so count on some after-work noshing.

    St. Genevieve's website is still under construction; check out the Facebook page for more info.

    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    Rising Star

    Houston restaurateur dishes on swapping Tex-Mex for new retro steakhouse

    Eric Sandler
    Feb 27, 2026 | 11:15 am
    Star Rover exterior
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Star Rover is now open in the Heights.

    Restaurateur Ford Fry surprised Houston diners when he announced in January that he was closing his Tex-Mex restaurant Superica and replacing it with Star Rover, a casual, family-friendly steakhouse. With Star Rover now open for dinner and weekend brunch, Fry — who also owns Star Rover's neighbor La Lucha, casual taqueria Little Rey, and River Oaks fine dining restaurant State of Grace — explains that the decision came down to both economics and his own desire to provide the Heights with something he thought was lacking.

    “This was our smallest Superica. Superica for us takes so much — every day you’re making salsas, tortillas, it’s so prep heavy,” Fry says. “We weren’t big enough to be that successful. We didn’t have enough seats to make the labor make sense.”

    Rather than compete against Houston’s seemingly limitless roster of Tex-Mex restaurants, Fry saw an opportunity for a steakhouse that occupied a space somewhere between chains like Texas Roadhouse and Outback and fine dining staples like Pappas Bros. Enter Star Rover, which already has a popular location in Nashville.

    Just as La Lucha channels Fry’s childhood memories of the San Jacinto Inn, Star Rover takes some inspiration from iconic Houston restaurant Hofbrau. Diners of a certain age will see places like Hofbrau in the restaurant’s design. The walls are adorned with framed pictures, taxidermy, vintage advertising, and more.

    “The inspiration is if you were some old Texas dude who wanted to start a steakhouse you’d find a bunch of crap and put it on the walls,” Fry says. “We want to make it cool, but it’s got to take you away from what it was. Did we achieve that? I hope so.”

    Fry tasked chef Bobby Matos with updating the Star Rover menu for Houston. It starts with a selection of steaks — chopped, filet, T-bone, ribeye, or skirt — along with a half-chicken, blackened redfish, and chicken fried chicken. All of them come with milk rolls, salad, fries, and onion rings. Diners who want a little surf and turf can add either a crab cake or a fried lobster tail.

    The appetizer menu is similarly tidy, consisting of shrimp cocktail, oysters (raw or fried), potato skins, and vegetable crudités. Desserts include a selection of pies as well as soft serve ice cream.

    Since the steaks are thinner than those served at upscale steakhouses, they’re cooked hot and fast on a plancha and basted in butter.

    “We control the costs by the size of the meat,” Fry explains. “Meat is so expensive, how do you do a family-friendly steakhouse? It’s a 12-ounce ribeye and it’s choice. We put the right amount of age on it.”

    Tucked away in the corner of the menu is text that reads “Cheeseburger?! Just ask!” People should, because it’s a hearty half-pound, New York tavern-style burger that sits on grilled onions, is topped with cheese and mayonnaise, and is served on a classic potato bun. Think of it as the thick-patty counterpart to La Lucha’s thin-patty Pharmacy Burger.

    “I call it a lowbrow steakhouse burger,” Fry says. “It’s not a Peter Luger, but it may be better and it won’t cost as much.”

    Star Rover’s weekend brunch menu features the same pancakes that had been a staple at Superica. They’re joined by some new items, including baked-to-order cinnamon rolls, breakfast tacos, and kolaches that use sausage from Houston’s Roegels Barbecue Co.

    Star Rover exterior

    Photo by Eric Sandler

    Star Rover is now open in the Heights.

    The restaurant has one other old-school touch in the form of an eating challenge called the “I Ate the 76er.” Available with 24 hours notice, diners who finish a 76-ounce steak, milk rolls, salad, onion rings, and fries in under an hour will receive the meal for free, plus a t-shirt and the opportunity to sign a winners’ wall. The challenge reflects the spirit Fry is bringing to Star Rover.

    “A lot of it is scratching that itch of something fun I want to do versus what I think the neighborhood will like,” he says. “We did a version of this in Nashville with a stage. It’s where I eat when I’m in Nashville, because it’s what I want to eat when I’m there.”

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    news/restaurants-bars
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