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    What's Eric Eating Episode 158

    A blooming chat with White Elm Cafe Bakery, plus East End Thai with street cred

    CultureMap Staff
    Aug 20, 2020 | 4:00 pm
    White Elm Cafe duck banh mi
    Duck banh mi is a signature item at White Elm Cafe Bakery.
    Photo by Shannon O'Hara

    On this week's episode of "What's Eric Eating," Tasos Katsaounis, Christopher "Chico" Ramirez, and Scott Simonson join CultureMap food editor Eric Sandler to discuss White Elm Cafe Bakery. Newly opened in the Memorial area, White Elm unites Katsaounis, the founder of Bread Man Baking Company, with Ramirez, a co-founder of The Boot and Field & Tides, and Simonson, who owns Humble's acclaimed French restaurant Chez Nous with his wife, chef Stacy Simonson.

    Ramirez begins the interview by explaining how he saw an opportunity for a French-influenced neighborhood cafe with a full pastry program. He recruited the three other partners and built a team with chef de cuisine Jesus Salinas (Field & Tides), general manager Richard Brown (Guard & Grace), and executive pastry chef Jamie Orlacchio (La Table). The Simonsons contributed an array of dishes ranging from a banh mi sandwich made with duck confit to pizzas topped with lamb meatballs and pan-seared Gulf snapper. Katsaounis added an array of pastries that Bread Man couldn't sell via its traditional wholesale channels, such as the PRW croissant (filled with pistachio pastry cream) and the Galaktoboureko, a traditional Greek dish made with crispy filo dough and semolina custard.

    Simonson mentions that he and Stacy have a number of ideas for how the menu could be expanded or even tweaked to suit the tastes of different neighborhoods. That prompts Sandler to ask Ramirez if he expects to open multiple locations.

    "I'm a big believer in the whole city," Ramirez says. "I've spent the last 10 years running restaurants in a pretty specific geographic area, but looking at areas like the westside, here in Memorial, further west to Katy, up north in Kingwood . . . Pearland, Sugar Land, these are all parts of town that have the same demographics, the same families, the same incomes as any part of Houston that deserve this same type of food. I see absolutely no reason not to take this concept, once we've dialed it in, and take it to as many places as will have us."

    Prior to the interview, Houston BBQ Festival co-founder Michael Fulmer joins Sandler to discuss the news of the week. Their topics include: the recent acquisition of two locations of Liberty Kitchen by State Fare owner Culinary Khancepts; the prospects for Acadian Coast, a new seafood restaurant coming to the Second Ward; and Riel chef Ryan Lachaine's new sandwich concept, Louie's.

    In the restaurants of the week segment, Fulmer and Sandler share first impressions of Street to Kitchen, a newly opened Thai restaurant in the East End, and rave about their recent meal at Rosie Cannonball in Montrose.

    ---

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Google Play, or Spotify. Listen to it Saturday at 1 pm on ESPN 97.5.

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    an offer he couldn't refuse

    Exclusive: Killen's Barbecue will soon shutter in The Woodlands

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 1, 2025 | 10:30 am
    Killen's barbecue meat platter with sides
    Photo by Robert Jacob Lerma
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    Fans of Killen’s Barbecue’s location in The Woodlands have a days to make one last visit. The restaurant will close this Sunday, December 7, chef-owner Ronnie Killen tells CultureMap.

    Open since 2021, Killen says that he’s in final negotiations to sell the location at 8800 Six Pines Dr. to Whataburger for a new location of the iconic Texas fast food restaurant. Neither the original location of Killen’s Barbecue in Pearland nor its Cypress location are affected by the closure of The Woodlands and will remain open.

    “Whataburger made me a deal I couldn’t pass up. It would take 10 years to do that kind of revenue,” Killen writes in a text, adding that the company recently made a significant payment to keep the deal’s window open through the end of the year.

    He added that the costs to operate the restaurant have gone up significantly. As one example, a cord of wood cost $175 when he opened the first Killen’s Barbecue in 2013. It costs $475 now, he writes.

    If the deal falls through, Killen states that he could look for a new buyer or convert the restaurant into a second location of Killen’s Burger, the retro-styled burger joint he operates in Pearland.

    The restaurant’s closure had been expected since February, when Killen sold The Woodlands’ location of Killen's Steakhouse. At the time, Killen said he also planned to find a buyer for his barbecue joint in the bustling suburb. He cited the driving distance from Pearland to The Woodlands as one reason he chose to divest both locations. He still operates Killen's Steakhouse in Pearland, comfort food restaurant Killen's near the Heights, Killen's Burger, and three other locations of Killen's Barbecue.

    As it approaches its 13th anniversary in the spring, Killen’s Barbecue remains a vital part of Houston’s barbecue scene. The restaurant recently earned an honorable mention from Texas Monthly and holds a Bib Gourmand designation in the Michelin Guide. In July, it opened a new location at Hobby Airport.

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