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    Food Hall News

    New underground downtown dining palace heats up Houston's hot food hall boom

    Eric Sandler
    Aug 10, 2018 | 9:32 am

    How many food halls can downtown Houston support? Three are already slated to join Conservatory: Finn Hall, which will feature a mix of first-time concepts and new locations of popular concepts like Dish Society and Goode Company; Bravery Chef Hall, where chefs will cook in front of diners; and Lyric Market, which is being curated by chef Charles Clark and his business partner Grant Cooper (Brasserie 19, Coppa Osteria, etc).

    Add the Capitol Tower to the list. Real estate development and construction firm Skanska has enlisted Austin’s Michael Hsu Office of Architecture (Uchi, Hunky Dory) to help it develop a food-oriented concept for the tunnel level of the 35-story, LEED certified office building.

    Understory, a name Hsu suggested due to both its literal meaning as “the lively space between the forest canopy and the underbrush” as well as its recognition that the space is under the ground level of the building, will offer a full service restaurant, seven chef-driven food counters, and a cocktail bar. Located at 800 Capitol St., formerly the site of the Houston Club building, the prime location in the heart of downtown’s central business district offers five points of tunnel access. While that should ensure steady lunch business for all of Understory’s restaurants, Skanska intends for it to be a destination of evenings and weekends, too.

    “It’s really a public place that more than people in the building can enjoy, Matt Damborsky, executive vice president for Skanska USA Commercial Development in Houston, tells CultureMap. “We are seeing downtown, it’s definitely changing very rapidly with more residents. We’re located next to the Theater District. We hope to have patons come before or after a show.”

    To achieve that goal, the building will have prominent signage at the street level to lure visitors in (most of the tunnels are closed on evenings and weekends). In additions, Understory will need to recruit the sort of operators who will make the space a food hall and not a food court. While the company isn’t ready to reveal any names, they’re targeting the right kind of concepts to make the space a draw.

    “Most of the engagement we’ve had so far are chefs with one or two locations, a couple are from outside the city of Houston,” Damborsky says. “We’re looking for a diverse mix of options. Later he adds, “As we investigate different chefs and their concepts, we’re trying to make it a mix that will appeal to a wide variety of people.”

    One thing is certain — the place will look good. Skanska’s announcement touts design features that include “artist murals, copper-clad kitchen hoods, wooden butcher block countertops and white marble.” Skanska’s goal is that the space becomes an important part of downtown.

    “We’re trying to create more than a place to eat,” Damborsky says. “We want to partner with the visual and performing arts for more than food. In the end, we want it to be a place for people who are visiting Houston to go see and go visit.”

    Michael Hsu has ambitious plans for Understory's design.

    Capitol Tower Understory culinary market
    Courtesy of Skanska
    Michael Hsu has ambitious plans for Understory's design.
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    What's Eric Eating Episodes 516 and 517

    Food experts draft the best dishes at Vietnamese restaurants in Houston

    CultureMap Staff
    Dec 12, 2025 | 5:15 pm
    Moon Rabbit food spread
    Moon Rabbit/Facebook
    Two panelists selected dishes from Moon Rabbit in the Heights.

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” CultureMap editor Eric Sandler recruited five of his friends and colleagues to select their favorite dishes at Vietnamese restaurants in Houston via a fantasy football-style draft.



    The panelists — Stevie Vu of the Chowdown in Chinatown Facebook group and Asia Society, Texas; Chelsea Thomas of Local Foods Group; Heights Grocer and Montrose Grocer owner Mary Clarkson; Have A Nice Day AAPI pop-up market co-founder Isabel Protomartir; Houston BBQ Festival co-founder Michael Fulmer — joined Sandler to draft Vietnamese dishes and restaurants in six categories. They are:

    • Appetizer/Salad
    • Entree
    • Sandwich
    • Soup
    • Viet-Cajun
    • Wildcard

    In the first round, Vu kicked things off by selecting the sandwiches from Chinatown institution Nguyen Ngo. Thomas followed with the duck salad at Thien An. Clarkson took the mango-papaya salad from Old Saigon Cafe, and Sandler scored the Beef 7 Ways at Chinatown favorite Saigon Pagolac. Protomartir took the Duck House’s crispy egg rolls, and Fulmer closed round one with the beef rolls at Nam Giao, which holds a Bib Gourmand designation in the Michelin Guide.

    Sandler shared the full results on Instagram.


    View this post on Instagram
    A post shared by Eric Sandler (@ericsandler)


    As he noted, the draft results include some of Houston’s most prominent Vietnamese restaurant as well as a few under-the-radar choices that will give listeners some new options to try. Listen to the full episode on any podcast platform to hear the panelists explain the choices and recommend a few places that they could have drafted instead.



    In this week’s second episode, chef Christine Ha and her husband John Suh join Sandler to review the results and pick a winner. Since no one selected their restaurant The Blind Goat, each drafter is on an equal footing.

    Listen to the full episode to hear who won. Ha and Suh also share thoughts on their favorite selections by each panelist. They also catch us up on the latest happenings at both The Blind Goat and Stuffed Belly, their sandwich shop, including the recent addition of a gumbo pot pie to The Blind Goat’s menu.


    View this post on Instagram
    A post shared by The Blind Goat (@theblindgoathtx)


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    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 9 am on ESPN 97.5.

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