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    Midtown Changing Restaurant

    Midtown makeover: Massive new restaurant, bar & bakery in an old garage seeks to change a neighborhood

    Clifford Pugh
    Jun 29, 2014 | 8:14 am

    Ian Rosenberg is at it again.

    The urban designer/developer with a conscience who is responsible for meticulously restoring historic buildings into two of Midtown's hippest bars — 13 Celsius and Mongoose versus Cobra — is thinking really big this time, with plans to develop a former 32,000-square-foot garage and print shop into a bakery, restaurant and bar that will serve the rapidly growing neighborhood nearly around the clock.

    "We're trying to create a neighborhood. Houston is changing and evolving. There's tremendous opportunity."

    Rosenberg is joining forces with three others — Heath Wendell, president and founder of Slow Dough Bread Co., restaurateur/chocolatier Richard Kaplan and wine expert Mike Sammons (Rosenberg's partner at 13 Celsius) — on the project, which they are labeling Weights + Measures.

    The new food and drink space on Caroline Avenue in Midtown will take over the front half of the building, while the back half is already occupied by The Metropolitan Dance Company (METdance), which on a recent day was buzzing with students taking dance classes in four big rehearsal spaces. Upstairs the hip design firm, Acumen, has its offices, with space for additional tenants.

    "We're trying to create a neighborhood," Rosenberg says. "Houston is changing and evolving. There's tremendous opportunity."

    Homey Styles

    When Weights + Measures opens, hopefully by mid-September, the partners in the new project see the combined space as greater than the sum of its various parts, attracting customers throughout the day into the night. Wendell's first Slow Dough Bread Co. retail store will anchor a space inside the entrance of METdance, to attract parents dropping their kids off at dance class or business types stopping for coffee and pastries in the morning or throughout the day.

    "Adding the baking component softens (the entire project)," Wendell says. "It helps balance the whole thing to be a true neighborhood."

    Other features include a glassed-in room where customers can see dough being made for fresh pasta and pastries, a donut fryer, and an open kitchen with large pantry.

    Nearby, a small cafe area can serve as a gathering spot for meetings during the day and, by late afternoon can be transformed into a place for a quick sip of wine. Kaplan's mouth-watering Brown Paper Chocolates will also be sold there.

    The cafe area will flow into a much larger restaurant seating 150, with a corner patio, and bar at the front of the building that faces Caroline street. Rosenberg carved out floor-to-ceiling windows at the front so those who walk or drive by can see inside.

    "This corner felt like it needed a restaurant," he explains.

    The interior will be a mix of soft colors and homey styles — shag carpet on some walls, '50s ceramic tile, fabric sofas and chairs — to contrast with the concrete beams and industrial feel of the building. Other features include a glassed-in room where customers can see dough being made for fresh pasta and pastries, a donut fryer, and an open kitchen with large pantry to allow almost everything to be in full view.

    "We want you to be comfortable here and come often," Rosenberg says.

    Kaplan, who will oversee the restaurant, plans to offer Roman style pizza and other items by weight and measure so customers can get the exact size they want. Sammons plans a drink menu with a nod toward the '70s, with new versions of such classics as the Harvey Wallbanger, Grasshopper and pina colada. "All of these drinks got a super bad rap, we want to make something good out of them," he says.

    The four principals had been looking for a project to do together for a while. Wendell got to know Rosenberg and Sammons because he and his then-fiancee would stop by 13 Celsius after delivering bread to Houston restaurants. Rosenberg originally met Kaplan through restaurateur/chef Monica Pope and met Sammons at Dolce Vita. "It's a classic example of how everybody (in the food business) knows each other," Sammons says.

    But won't four such strong-willed people have trouble getting along with such a big project?

    "We tested it and went to Italy together," Sammons said, recalling an overseas trip that he, Wendell and Kaplan took in February to scout out ideas for Weights + Measures. (Rosenberg stayed in Houston where he was planning his wedding.)

    "And we survived," Kaplan says with a laugh.

    As anyone who has been on trip together knows, if you can travel together and remain friends, anything is possible.

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    Rising Star

    Houston restaurateur dishes on swapping Tex-Mex for new retro steakhouse

    Eric Sandler
    Feb 27, 2026 | 11:15 am
    Star Rover exterior
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Star Rover is now open in the Heights.

    Restaurateur Ford Fry surprised Houston diners when he announced in January that he was closing his Tex-Mex restaurant Superica and replacing it with Star Rover, a casual, family-friendly steakhouse. With Star Rover now open for dinner and weekend brunch, Fry — who also owns Star Rover's neighbor La Lucha, casual taqueria Little Rey, and River Oaks fine dining restaurant State of Grace — explains that the decision came down to both economics and his own desire to provide the Heights with something he thought was lacking.

    “This was our smallest Superica. Superica for us takes so much — every day you’re making salsas, tortillas, it’s so prep heavy,” Fry says. “We weren’t big enough to be that successful. We didn’t have enough seats to make the labor make sense.”

    Rather than compete against Houston’s seemingly limitless roster of Tex-Mex restaurants, Fry saw an opportunity for a steakhouse that occupied a space somewhere between chains like Texas Roadhouse and Outback and fine dining staples like Pappas Bros. Enter Star Rover, which already has a popular location in Nashville.

    Just as La Lucha channels Fry’s childhood memories of the San Jacinto Inn, Star Rover takes some inspiration from iconic Houston restaurant Hofbrau. Diners of a certain age will see places like Hofbrau in the restaurant’s design. The walls are adorned with framed pictures, taxidermy, vintage advertising, and more.

    “The inspiration is if you were some old Texas dude who wanted to start a steakhouse you’d find a bunch of crap and put it on the walls,” Fry says. “We want to make it cool, but it’s got to take you away from what it was. Did we achieve that? I hope so.”

    Fry tasked chef Bobby Matos with updating the Star Rover menu for Houston. It starts with a selection of steaks — chopped, filet, T-bone, ribeye, or skirt — along with a half-chicken, blackened redfish, and chicken fried chicken. All of them come with milk rolls, salad, fries, and onion rings. Diners who want a little surf and turf can add either a crab cake or a fried lobster tail.

    The appetizer menu is similarly tidy, consisting of shrimp cocktail, oysters (raw or fried), potato skins, and vegetable crudités. Desserts include a selection of pies as well as soft serve ice cream.

    Since the steaks are thinner than those served at upscale steakhouses, they’re cooked hot and fast on a plancha and basted in butter.

    “We control the costs by the size of the meat,” Fry explains. “Meat is so expensive, how do you do a family-friendly steakhouse? It’s a 12-ounce ribeye and it’s choice. We put the right amount of age on it.”

    Tucked away in the corner of the menu is text that reads “Cheeseburger?! Just ask!” People should, because it’s a hearty half-pound, New York tavern-style burger that sits on grilled onions, is topped with cheese and mayonnaise, and is served on a classic potato bun. Think of it as the thick-patty counterpart to La Lucha’s thin-patty Pharmacy Burger.

    “I call it a lowbrow steakhouse burger,” Fry says. “It’s not a Peter Luger, but it may be better and it won’t cost as much.”

    Star Rover’s weekend brunch menu features the same pancakes that had been a staple at Superica. They’re joined by some new items, including baked-to-order cinnamon rolls, breakfast tacos, and kolaches that use sausage from Houston’s Roegels Barbecue Co.

    Star Rover exterior

    Photo by Eric Sandler

    Star Rover is now open in the Heights.

    The restaurant has one other old-school touch in the form of an eating challenge called the “I Ate the 76er.” Available with 24 hours notice, diners who finish a 76-ounce steak, milk rolls, salad, onion rings, and fries in under an hour will receive the meal for free, plus a t-shirt and the opportunity to sign a winners’ wall. The challenge reflects the spirit Fry is bringing to Star Rover.

    “A lot of it is scratching that itch of something fun I want to do versus what I think the neighborhood will like,” he says. “We did a version of this in Nashville with a stage. It’s where I eat when I’m in Nashville, because it’s what I want to eat when I’m there.”

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