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    Food for Thought

    Food fight pits junk food-obsessed Ag commissioner against advocates for healthy school lunches

    Marene Gustin
    Marene Gustin
    Apr 24, 2015 | 11:41 am

    I remember when school lunch was an apple and a tuna salad sandwich in a brown paper bag that mom sent me out the door with.

    But times and tastes changed when I got to high school and all the cool teens started buying pizza and coke and candy bars. And for seniors, who could leave campus during lunch and if someone had a car, it was hello Dairy Queen!

    But if I were a kid today I’d be packing sushi and organic fruits to eat.

    And a lot of parents and kids share that view of wanting to eat healthy, but not all.

    In Texas almost a quarter of school age children are obese. Not fat, clinically obese. This is a trend that has been growing for quite awhile.

    Certainly not Agriculture Commissioner Sid Miller.

    In January his first act as head of the ag agency was to …

    Nope not to address drought, or the feral hog problem and any other issue threatening family farms.

    …issue amnesty for cupcakes, allowing them back in schools.

    And Miller got a lot of mileage out of that, including spots on Fox News.

    The only problem was that Texas never banned kids from bringing cupcakes to school.

    “That was his first official act,” sighs Houstonian Bettina Elias Siegel. “And now he wants to repeal state laws banning deep fat fryers and sales of diet soda in schools.”

    Siegel has spent the last several years fighting to keep school foods healthy. She writes a blog called The Lunch Tray and sits on two H.I.S.D. nutrition committees. She also writes op eds for newspapers around the nation.

    In Texas almost a quarter of school age children are obese. Not fat, clinically obese. This is a trend that has been growing for quite awhile.

    “Ten years ago then-commissioner Susan Combs (also a Republican) instituted guidelines to restrict competitive foods (vending machines and fund raiser items).

    “But now Miller wants to repeal those. He wants to bring back deep fat fryers that were banned and allow soda companies to sell diet sodas in vending machines and repeal the ‘time and place’ restrictions that ban groups from selling junk food in the cafeteria during lunch hours.”

    You can see a list of the proposed changes here.

    Siegel is far from the only one concerned about this reversal of access to junk food on school campuses.

    Gracie Cavnar, founder of the Recipe for Success Foundation that educates school children about food and nutrition in fun ways, started a petition on change.org against the proposed changes.

    The public comment period is now closed and we’ll have to wait and see what happens in Austin. But Siegel isn’t holding her breath.

    “I doubt many school are going to go out and spend money buying deep fat fryers again,” she says. “And school districts can set their own priorities. H.I.S.D. is very nutrition conscious, I don’t see them returning to the junk food age.

    “But what I do worry about is that his agency is charged with our children’s nutrition and with his rhetoric I think he’s sending a signal that he won’t even enforce the federal laws that regulate the school lunches.”

    I am sure the feds would have something to say about that but what message is he sending parents and children?

    It’s OK to stuff yourself with fat, sugar and empty calories? Pretty sure the 20 + percentage of obese Texas teens already buy that.

    Hey, maybe he’ll add deep-fried rodeo food to the menu!

    What will happen to the healthy school lunch in Texas?

    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    firing up Montrose

    New Houston seafood restaurant adds live-fire flair to Japanese flavors

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 3, 2025 | 10:02 am
    Casa Kenji restaurant
    Photo by Becca Wright
    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    An ambitious new seafood restaurant is coming to Montrose next week. Casa Kenji will open on Tuesday, December 9.

    Located in the former Andiron space (3201 Allen Pkwy), Casa Kenji is the first Houston project for New Orleans restaurateur Malachi DuPre, a former LSU standout who played briefly in the NFL before establishing Kenji and Kenji Kazoku restaurants in New Orleans. Together with former LSU teammate John “B-John” Ballis and Houston chef Bigler “Biggie” Cruz, Casa Kenji will blend Latin and Japanese influences while also incorporating live-fire elements into the restaurant’s dishes. Cruz, whose resume includes a lengthy stint at Uchi as well as working at critically acclaimed Houston seafood restaurant Golfstrømmen, tells CultureMap that Casa Kenji’s approach is the first time he can be himself in the kitchen.

    “My perfect restaurant was always based on the live fire and sushi combination,” Cruz says. “My mom cooked with wood for my entire life. The live fire creates completely different flavors. The smoky flavors, the sear from the charcoal — they create a different type of memory for me.”

    The use of live fire techniques will permeate Casa Kenji’s menus in ways both big and small. For example, diners will be able to feast on prawns grilled directly on charcoal and served with yuzu chili garlic, or savor lightly seared Japanese wagyu tataki paired with mushrooms. Even raw dishes will benefit from the restaurant’s wood-burning grill and stove.

    “Every vegetable we peel, we make into an ash that’s a topping for the dishes. It adds a different layer of flavor,” Cruz says. Look for it in the scallop aguachile, among others.

    Even vegetables get a smoky component, as in a cabbage dish that’s braised with dashi and soy sauce before being roasted and served with an onion soubise that Cruz says he developed based on techniques he learned from Golfstrømmen chef Christopher Haatuft.

    “It’s rich, super savory, with smoky layers, and you get brightness from the shiso gremolata. I think it will be a signature dish for us,” the chef says.

    One change to the interior is the addition of a six-seat omakase counter that looks into the kitchen. Cruz promises those diners will have an even more elevated experience than the restaurant’s regular menu, including ingredients such as Japanese wagyu and premium fish flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market.

    Beyond its cuisine, Casa Kenji hopes to stand out with its spacious outdoor patio. Since very few Japanese-inspired restaurants in Houston offer outdoor seating, it should appeal to diners who want a little vitamin D along with their tuna crudo.

    “We’re proud to showcase the craft and creativity that defines Casa Kenji,” co-founders Cruz, Ballis, and DuPre said in a statement. “With chef Bigler Cruz at the helm — blending live-fire technique with the discipline of Japanese tradition — we’re equally honored and excited to share a unique concept that is truly rooted in passion, culture, and community.”

    Casa Kenji will be open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday beginning at 4 pm. Reservations are available on Resy.

    Casa Kenji restaurant

    Photo by Becca Wright

    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    news/restaurants-bars

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