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    Food for Thought

    A restaurant with earth thoughts: The green heaven of Haven

    Marene Gustin
    Apr 13, 2010 | 3:36 pm
    • Haven's 4-by-60-foot bed lined with cedar logs from Cat Spring, watered from a500-gallon cistern that catches rainwater off the pitched roof of the restaurant
      Photo by Barbara Kuntz
    • Sous chef Kevin Naderi with more seedlings to plant
      Photo by Barbara Kuntz
    • Gardener Andrew Phlegar tends to garden-to-fork plants found throughout Haven'sgrounds.
      Photo by Barbara Kuntz
    • Naderi cooks down chef Randy Evans' whole hogs from Harrison Hog Farm to makehead cheese.
      Photo by Barbara Kuntz

    Haven celebrates on April 21 with a special Earth Day Wine Dinner that includes a feast from executive chef Randy Evans’ farm-to-fork menu and sustainable wines from Parducci and Paul Dolan Vineyards. But then again, every day is Earth Day at Haven.

    The charming 5,200-square-foot LEED certified green restaurant has an environmentally friendly design created by Collaborative Projects’ Jim Herd, Geoffrey Brune and Melanie Pereira that features open ceilings, minimal finishes, repurposed wood and kitchen appliances and energy-efficient lighting. During the summer the restaurant’s overhangs, floor-to-ceiling green screens and fast-growing shade trees help reduce air conditioning use.

    Which, by the way, is provided via two inflatable ductsox that disperse chilled or heated air evenly. Evans says the utility bills are about half of what they would be with a regular restaurant.

    But that’s not all. Evans creates his menu from locally sourced produce. If Monica Pope is the queen of Houston’s Slow Food movement, Evans is the crown prince. And he’s now growing some of his produce.

    Gardener Andrew Phlegar and sous chef Kevin Naderi recently gave us a tour of the activity behind the eatery where crews were busy building a garden shed and Phlegar was planting, well, just about everything.

    “Herbs,” says Phlegar, holding up several little pots. “We have three kinds of basil, three types of tomatoes, greens, bell peppers, serranos, habaneros, squash, zucchini and eggplant.” And there are stevia plants, also known as sugarleaf because of the sweet taste. They’ll find their way into glasses of iced tea and the classic cocktails made from Texas liquors. All this bounty is being planted into the four-by-60-foot bed lined with cedar logs from Cat Spring. And it will be watered from a 500-gallon cistern that catches rainwater off the pitched roof of the restaurant.

    Those decorative pots by the front door harbor bay trees and the area around the parking lot has baby orange and lime trees coming up, while Pleasant Hill grapes cling to the chain link fence separating Haven from McGonigel’s Mucky Duck next door.

    Respect The Pig Gods

    There’s something else hung along the fence behind the garden as well. Three pig skulls glistening in the morning sunshine. Skulls that will soon be joined by more of their brethren.

    “Randy gets whole hogs from Harrison Hog Farm,” Naderi explains. “He slaughters them here and I get to cook down the heads.” Say what? “I make head cheese! It’s really, really good.”

    Lest you think head cheese is that nasty lunchmeat from a cellophane package, you should trust the sous chef on this and try some of his. I did. It’s a delectable and creamy meat, which has now joined the list of things I never thought I would eat but do.

    So, in using the entire pig, it makes sense that the skulls wind up as garden décor. And when the garden is finished it will supply about 150 pounds of produce this year. Eventually it will also sport a few tables for garden parties where guests can enjoy the atmosphere while imbibing in the bounty and sipping some of the creative cocktails infused with the produce. Surely the pig gods will smile down on such an endeavor.

    Haven may just be the most Earth friendly spot in town. Chef Evans is proud of his creation, although sadly he couldn’t join us for the garden tour. Seems he was a bit under the weather that day. Food poisoning, he told me on the phone.

    Seems he’d eaten a late night snack from a fast food joint after work the night before. I guess even the most dedicated greenies among us backslide now and then.

    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    water, water everywhere

    The quest for a Topo Chico replacement — we rate 9 sparkling waters

    Eric Sandler
    Apr 17, 2026 | 2:59 pm
    Sparkling water taste
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    We purchased sparkling water at five stores across the inner loop.

    Topo Chico drinkers nationwide are in a bit of a tizzy. Coca-Cola, which acquired the cult-favorite sparkling mineral water in 2017, announced that the product will be unavailable for at least the next few months.

    CNN reports the shortage is due to “facility upgrades at the water source and production facilities in Mexico.”

    “We are now making further investments at the source to improve source stability and quality and enable increased production, requiring us to temporarily stop production,” Coca-Cola said in a letter to CNN.

    For Topo Chico fans, the shortage brings an obvious question. What should a person drink until the supply is restored? Or, what’s a permanent replacement that will avoid this issue altogether?

    After collecting suggestions from people via Instagram, I went to Spec’s and inner loop grocery stores to purchase nine varieties of sparkling water with one goal in mind — find something that’s similar enough to Topo Chico that it will earn a spot in my refrigerator.

    In the interests of science, I only included sparkling water brands that are similar in size (approximately 12-ounce bottles) and price (between $1 and $1.50 per bottle). Whenever possible, I purchased glass bottles instead of cans or plastic. Although many are available in flavors, I only purchased unflavored waters. All waters were chilled overnight in a refrigerator prior to tasting.

    Sparkling water taste test Each water was chilled overnight prior to tasting.Photo by Eric Sandler

    Not surprisingly, my top three choices came down to two other Mexican sparkling waters and a convincing dupe from H-E-B.

    Most Similar to Topo Chico

    Agua de Piedra
    Purchased from Spec’s (can also be found at La Michocana), this water from Nuevo Leon, Mexico can be found at several restaurants and coffee shops around town. It offers both strong carbonation and just enough saltiness to satisfy a Topo craving. As long as I can source it reliably, this will be my new house water.

    Mineragua
    Available at both Whole Foods Market and H-E-B, this water from Jarritos is almost as carbonated as Topo Chico. Its flavor profile is salty with a slight, citrus-style acidity. I prefer the flavor of Agua de Piedra, but others may like this more.

    1877 Mineral Water by H-E-B
    H-E-B’s house brand sparkling mineral water is sourced from Texas, in Mineral Wells. It has carbonation that persists from opening until finishing. Its slightly salty flavor will be welcomed by Topo Chico drinkers. Overall, it’s probably the best choice for more people, since it’s so readily available.

    Less Like Topo, but Still Tasty

    Rambler Sparkling Water
    This mineral water from Austin is available everywhere, including many restaurants and bars. Since it's only available in cans, its more mild carbonation doesn’t match Topo Chico’s; however, it has a lightly salty taste that makes it very refreshing. This is a good option for those who find Topo to be too fizzy.

    Tehuacan
    Purchased at Central Market, this water is sourced from springs within Citlaltépetl, Mexico’s highest mountain. The mountain’s volcanic rock gives the water a noticeable saltiness with a slightly sour taste. Although it wasn’t quite to my taste, its strong carbonation and distinct flavor could appeal to other Topo devotees.

    Private Selection Sparkling Mineral Water
    Available at Kroger, this water is neither as carbonated nor as salty as Topo Chico. Still, it has enough fizz and minerality to do in a pinch, particularly for people who prefer shopping at Kroger over other grocery stores.

    Your Mileage May Vary

    Richard’s Sparkling Rainwater
    Admittedly, a non-mineral water was unlikely to emerge as a favorite in this taste test. Since it’s made with filtered rainwater, Richard’s has a very clean taste and a mild level of carbonation.

    Saratoga Carbonated Spring Water
    Like Richard’s, this water is too lightly carbonated and too mildly flavored to satisfy a Topo craving. Still, it’s clean and refreshing, which could appeal to non-Topo drinkers.

    I’ve Had Better

    Liquid Death Mountain Water (Sparkling)
    Bland and flat-tasting, this water was the only one I wouldn’t purchase again. Maybe the flavored versions are better.

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