Hometown Glory

Snarky, tough New York Times food critic is left gushing over Houston restaurants

New York Times food critic Pete Wells is taking on Houston this week. And, as far as the local cuisine goes, the notoriously snarky reviewer has nothing but kinds words.

Best known for his damning 2012 review of Guy Fieri's American Kitchen & Bar in Times Square, Wells focuses on Justin Yu's Oxheart and Chris Shepherd's Underbelly in Houston — both of which are enjoying healthy doses of national attention after scoring recent nominations from the James Beard Foundation.

"Oxheart is one of the growing number of places around the country that are rearranging our notions of what fine dining means."

The critic kicks off his Space City rundown with a look at Yu's unique take on turkey and follows through with a stream of praise for Oxheart's thoughtfully-simple decor, diverse wine list and "one of the most inventive and delicious salads" he's had recently.

"Oxheart is one of the growing number of places around the country that are rearranging our notions of what fine dining means," Wells explains. "It is also an example of the growing ambition of the Houston dining scene."

Across town, Underbelly continues to impress with its trademark "story of Houston food."

"For Underbelly’s chef and owner, Chris Shepherd," Wells writes, "it is a story of many cultures and cuisines meeting in a place that has become the most ethnically diverse metropolitan region in the United States."

"It is also an example of the growing ambition of the Houston dining scene."

Wells shouts out Shepherd's Korean braised goat with dumplings, Vietnamese-style pork meatballs, cornmeal-crusted chicken livers and long-forgotten desserts like vinegar pie, "a relic of a recipe from an age when lemons weren’t sold year-round."

While Oxheart escaped virtually snark-free in the review, Wells noted a few minor misses at Underbelly, such as a bland duck confit and a limited selection of local wines.

But who need's a perfect score when a food critic says your restaurant is helping to make Houston "one of the country’s most exciting places to eat"?

Salad of poached egg with lima beans and other fresh vegetables at Oxheart

News_Ruthie_where to eat right now_May 2012_Oxheart_Poached Egg Yolk

Photo by Ruthie Johnson Miller

Salad of poached egg with lima beans and other fresh vegetables at Oxheart

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cheers to that

Texas bourbon named one of 2024's top 10 whiskies

Still Austin Whiskey Co. Red Corn Bourbon Whiskey

Still Austin Whiskey Co./Facebook

Now if only we could snag a bottle...as a Christmas gift, of course.

Three cheers for Still Austin Whiskey Co.! The distillery's Bottled in Bond Red Corn Bourbon Whiskey was recognized as one of Whisky Advocate'sTop 20 Most Exciting Whiskies of 2024.

Every year, Whisky Advocate's expert panelists rank hundreds of whiskies based on their quality, availability, value for the price, and "X-factor," meaning an excitement-inducing component like a unique flavor or an innovative idea. An international panel also reviews contenders through several blind taste tests without knowing each whisky's producer, origin, age, or price.

The magazine ranked Still Austin's five-year Red Corn Bourbon No. 7 on the list with a prestigious score of 94 points. The Red Corn whiskey, which was released in June 2024, has mash bill consisting of 36 percent Jimmy Red corn, 34 percent white corn, 25 percent rye, and 5 percent barley.

According to panelist Shane English, tasting notes start big and bold with cracked pepper, dusty leather, and cocktail cherries, before moving on to a palate of chile pepper, caramel, and buttery cornbread.

"Each sip is electric — the pepper gives this whiskey a zing balanced by poundcake and glazed doughnuts," English said. "Charred oak fades to chocolate, coffee, and pecan pie on the finish."

Still Austin had the only Texas product on the list, which was fitting given the brand's recent boasting that it could match any Kentucky Bourbon. As a game day stunt when the Texas Longhorns played the Kentucky Wildcats in November, Still Austin refilled empty Kentucky Bourbon bottles with its own Cask Strength Bourbon for just $1.

When the brand isn't playfully antagonizing Kentucky fans, its Red Corn Bourbon sells for a retail price of $85 per 750-milliliter bottle, falling nearly in the middle of the price category out of all 20 bourbons on the list, with eight others priced for less.

For additional context, none of the top five bourbons fall under a $100 price tag. In fact, the most expensive bottle on the 2024 list is the Angel's Envy 2023 Cask Strength Port Wine Barrel Finished Bourbon, which ranked No. 12 and retails for $230 per bottle.

"Our top 20 whiskies represent a curated collection that deserves your attention. Each whisky on the list stands out for its superb taste, representing the pinnacle of a year filled with remarkable tastings," said executive editor David Fleming in a release. "This list features whiskies offering exceptional value, leaders in their respective styles, and superbly made expressions that are well worth seeking out."

Whiskey Advocate's 2024 Whiskey of the Year is Laphroaig Elements 2.0 Cask Strength Scotch Single Malt, which earned 95 points and retails for $165 a bottle.

whiskey bourbon distilleries awards lists