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    Cauliflower Cookery

    Cauliflower is the new Brussels sprout: Houston chefs work wonders with overlooked veggie

    Eric Sandler
    Mar 21, 2014 | 10:34 am

     Quiet is the new Loud. Orange is the new Black. Food is the new rock. Cauliflower is the new Brussels sprouts.

     

    At least, it seems that way in some of Houston's trendiest restaurants, where that side dish of mixed vegetables has taken a starring role on menus. Seeing as the mayor is busily encouraging Houstonians to eat a million pounds of vegetables this month as part of the VegOut! Challenge and local farmers markets are full of florets, the time seems ripe to assess the state of cauliflower cookery.

     

    Want to get in on the trend? Head to any of the restaurants below. Just act fast. The season is coming to an end in the next few weeks. When it's gone, that's it until next year.

     

     Coltivare - Cauliflower, pine nuts and raisins

     

    Developed by chef/owner Ryan Pera and sous chef Vincent Huynh in the run up to Coltivare's opening, this dish has become a top-seller. "We did 200 covers and sold 50 orders," Pera tells CultureMap. Naturally, the Italian restaurant with the 3,000 square-foot garden sources all of its cauliflower from local farm Gundermann Acres.

     

    Pera explains that he originally intended to roast the cauliflower but decided to flash fry it instead, "because it tasted better." Then the chefs tweaked the seasoning, first with some argodolce for sweet and sour, then raisins, tarragon and pine nuts "for nuttiness." While no one's saying the dish is solely responsible for Coltivare's long waits, the attention to detail reflected in the balanced flavors helps explain why so many people have embraced the restaurant.

     

    Pera knows people might be mad when the dish disappears, but "that's part of being a seasonal restaurant," he says.

     

     Roost - Cauliflower steak

     

    The credit (or blame) for cauliflower's current popularity certainly must go to Roost chef/owner Kevin Naderi; his Persian-inspired fried cauliflower with miso dressing has been the only savory constant on the restaurant's constantly changing menu. Naderi has upped the ante on his current menu with a thick-cut cauliflower steak that's an eminently satisfying entree for vegetarians or anyone else looking for something different.

     

    Naderi says a trip to Turkey inspired the dish. It's oven roasted in a cast iron pan to char the outside, then seasoned with curry powder and basted with butter. The dish is served over Beluga lentils with and topped with peppers, onions, tomatoes and jalapeno. "My favorite part is the stem," Naderi explains. "We get as much on there as possible. That's where the crunch and bite is."

     

     Down House - Cauliflower chaat, mint cilantro chutney, tamarind chutney, boondi, radish

     

    This small plate on the current Down House menu illustrates chef Mark Decker's ability to layer flavors. Decker wanted to feature chaat on the menu but knew he needed a little more to appeal to the restaurant's patrons. When Treadsac culinary director (and former Down House executive chef) Benjy Mason suggested incorporating cauliflower, Decker says he was "kicking myself for not thinking of that. (Then) it was just tweaking the cooking of the cauliflower and getting the plating right."

     

    The cauliflower is roasted then layered over chaat (sev, boondi and mamra tossed with tamarind chutney), mint cilantro chutney, radishes and mint for a slightly spicy burn that compliments that cauliflower's natural flavor. Chase it with the always awesome Down House burger to temper any feelings of virtuousness.

     

     Osteria Mazzantini - Sformato: baked cauliflower flan, cauliflower crema, pickled apricots, watercress

     

    Available at both lunch and dinner, the creamy texture of this dish makes it seem more like cauliflower custard than flan, but quibbles over naming do not diminish its deliciousness. It rests in a bowl of cauliflower crema, and the cheese crisp provides the necessary saltiness and crunch. A friend and I fought over the last few bites on a recent, and Houstonia's Robb Walsh calls it the best cauliflower dish in town. Up the fun factor by asking sommelier Samantha Porter for a pairing recommendation.

     

     Ninfa's on Navigation - Cauliflower torta

     

    Forgoing queso in flavor of cauliflower at Ninfa's may sound like culinary blasphemy, but sometimes good things come from a little heresy. Chef Alex Padilla starts by roasting cauliflower and potatoes, then mashing them with poblano pepper and garlic. The resulting concoction is formed into a pancake, seared and served with a tomato epazote sauce. It's a little bit spicy, a little bit like mashed potatoes and all cauliflower goodness.

     

    Currently, the dish floats on and off the specials list, but Padilla has promised it'll stick around at least through the weekend.

     

    Coltivare's cauliflower dish is made from locally sourced ingredients.

    Coltivare Cauliflower
      
    Photo by © Debora Smail
    Coltivare's cauliflower dish is made from locally sourced ingredients.
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    Matcha News

    TikTok star Keith Lee crafts matcha latte for Hill Country flood relief

    Teresa Gubbins
    Jul 11, 2025 | 9:30 am
    Keith Lee and matcha drink
    Instagram
    Keith Lee hoists his special matcha drink.

    The devastating floods that swept across Central Texas on July 4 are bringing out all kinds of charitable endeavors — and that includes a limited-edition beverage from Texas-based TikTok food influencer Keith Lee.

    Lee, a social media sensation whose online food reviews have benefited hundreds of small restaurants, is partnering with La La Land Kind Cafe on a special drink: Called the La La Land X Keith Lee Latte, it's a matcha drink in which 100 percent of the proceeds will go towards Kerr County flood relief.

    La La Land is the coffee chain founded in Dallas in 2019 with a mission to provide opportunities for fostering youth and individuals in need. It has three locations in Houston, along with 10 across Dallas-Fort Worth and six in Southern California.

    The new Keith Lee Latte will consist of double ceremonial matcha, with secret syrup, matcha cloud, a whole fresh strawberry, flaky salt, and matcha powder. (See Lee enjoy the latte in the video below.)


      
     
     
     
     
     
     
    View this post on Instagram
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
    A post shared by Keith Lee (@keith_lee125)
     


    Matcha is the Japanese green tea powder that has experienced a surge in popularity, appearing in everything from drinks like the matcha latte to desserts like matcha mousse.

     Keith Lee Latte Keith Lee Latte is a matcha drink.Instagram 

    Lee, who relocated to Dallas in 2024, has been on a matcha kick ever since he tried it in Chicago, which he says "led me down a rabbit hole," and it has become his trademark drink. In May, he visited seven cafes across DFW in search of the perfect matcha in town, and that included La La Land, where he ordered a matcha with almond milk.

    He also has a charitable history, including a special visit he made to Taste Project in Fort Worth to donate $4,000 to support the nonprofit's mission to fight food insecurity.

    The Keith Lee Latte will be available at all La La Land cafes beginning Friday July 11, for a limited time only. From July 11-27, 100 percent of all proceeds will support flood relief efforts in Kerr County — "a community in our home state that’s hurting," La La Land Cafe says.

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