Passionate Pitmaster

Passionate 26-year old pitmaster aims to bring high quality barbecue to River Oaks

Among a certain segment of Houston's culinary community, it's an axiom of faith that the first person to open a high-quality, central-Texas style barbecue joint inside the loop will make an absolute shitload of money. After all, the argument goes, if CorkScrew BBQ in Spring and Killen's Barbecue in Pearland are selling meat as fast as they can smoke it, the right concept in the heart of Houston could become a Franklin-style juggernaut.

While more established restaurants like Goode Co and even the venerable Pizzitola's have their fans, they simply aren't serving the intensely smoky, fatty, full-flavored barbecue that's at the forefront of Houston's barbecue awakening.

Given the potential for profit, some big names are already involved in the quest to open such a restaurant. Bryan Caswell and Greg Gatlin will soon open Jackson Street Barbecue in downtown, the Landmark Houston Hospitality Group is bringing The Republic Smokehouse & Saloon to Midtown and Wayne Mueller will open a version of central Texas stalwart Louie Mueller Barbecue in the Eastside at some point.

Pinkerton discovered this passion when, at 10 years old, he knew by intuition that his father needed to take some steaks off the grill.

With all that talent entering the market, it came as a bit of a surprise when the Chronicle reported recently that a 26-year old pitmaster with no formal culinary training would be opening a barbecue restaurant in River Oaks this August. Meet Grant Pinkerton: a Lamar High School and University of Texas grad with plans to open Pinkerton's Barbecue.

"I have a weird, undying passion for meat," Pinkerton tells CultureMap."I love it. Cooking meat has fascinated me since I was a little kid."

Pinkerton discovered this passion when, at 10 years old, he knew by intuition that his father needed to take some steaks off the grill. After learning to grill, he turned to a smoker. At Texas, he started cooking for 200 to 400 people at tailgates and, in the offseason, taking road trips to central Texas barbecue joints in places like Lockhart, Taylor and Llano.

"I came back to Houston and ate some barbecue here and said 'I can do better than this,'" Pinkerton explains. "Not only can I do better than this, but I want to provide awesome barbecue to Houston." He purchased a catering rig and started popping up "outlaw style," without permits, around West University Place. Pretty soon he had an email list of names that would allow him to pre-sell almost an entire day's production. That led to more catering, which is how Pinkerton met the people who are backing him in the restaurant.

The perfect place

Pinkerton says he had a vision for how his space would look but wasn't optimistic about finding the right fit until a friend referred him to a building on Joanel Street behind River Oaks Donuts. "We went and we checked it out, boom. It’s an old metal building with chicken wire covering the insulation and exposed metal beams. I was, like, this is it. This is perfect. I knew that’s exactly where I wanted to move in."

Pinkerton plans to serve brisket, beef ribs, pork ribs, sausage, chicken and turkey on the regular menu with occasional specials like whole hog or cabrito.

A massive 12-foot by 42-inch, trailer-mounted Klose offset smoker will provide plenty of capacity. "We’ve worked with the architect to design a vent hood and ventilation system to go over the smokestack," Pinkerton says. "I think it can serve up to 1,800 to 2,000 people per day."

Pinkerton plans to serve brisket, beef ribs, pork ribs, sausage, chicken and turkey on the regular menu with occasional specials like whole hog or cabrito. Sides will include jambalaya, coleslaw, potato salad and jalapeno cheese rice. "I want really awesome sides: culinary level sides to match really good meat," Pinkerton adds.

He's even developing a couple of salads for the River Oaks crowd, but they'll still be topped with meat.

As part of the run-up to opening, Pinkerton will be hosting pop-ups, participating in events like the Houston Barbecue Festival in April and booking more catering jobs. Festival organizer Michael Fulmer got his first taste of Pinkerton's barbecue last Saturday and was impressed by what he tasted.

"It didn't just look good. It tasted good," Fulmer tells CultureMap. "Both the fatty and the lean brisket were really good. It shows great adeptness of skill when you can execute like that.

"It's clear to me that he's not an amateur looking to come and play with professionals. This is a guy who's ready to go to the next level, and that's really encouraging."

Achieving his goals won't be easy, but Pinkerton is ready to make some sacrifices to achieve his dreams. "The hours are insane, and I’m thinking about that. It’s going to be crazy. It’s 6 a.m. to midnight, at least, every day.

"Luckily, I’m a pretty young guy. I figure I can kill myself for the first five to eight years."

Pinkerton smokes his brisket low and slow with a mixture of oak and mesquite.

Courtesy photo

Pinkerton smokes his brisket low and slow with a mixture of oak and mesquite.

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Bring home a feast

20 Houston restaurants making Thanksgiving easier with to-go meals

Turkey on a raised platter surrounded by side dishes.

Photo by Iza Romero

Amrina's to-go turkey feast includes a 10-to-12-pound turkey and side dishes for $350.

For Houstonians who want an at-home holiday without the fuss of grocery shopping, sweating over the stove, and cleaning up pots and pans, restaurants with Thanksgiving to-go options will definitely be a delicious time saver. Read for a list of options that include steakhouses, French fare, barbecue, and one of Houston's new Michelin-recognized eateries.

Amrina
Get a Royal Turkey Feast for $350. The meal includes a 10-to12-pound roast whole turkey with old monk rum glaze, along with crispy Brussels and parmesan, creamy mashed potato with chives, cornbread and sausage stuffing, spiced maple and jaggery roasted baby carrots, Thanksgiving salad, bread rolls, cranberry chutney, and classic turkey gravy. The turkey is $200 a la carte, and the sides are $150. Call 832-405-9921 to order before November 24.

Artisans
Pick up a to-go package that feeds between eight and 12 people. The meal includes a slow-roasted turkey, dressing, whipped mashed potatoes, green bean casserole, mushroom gravy, cranberry sauce, and apple cobbler for $350. Additional sides can be purchased a la carte. View the full menu. To place orders, email the restaurant or call 713-529-9111.

B&B Butchers
Craft the perfect meal for any crowd with this Washington Avenue spot’s a la carte selections. A whole brined and ready-to-cook turkey is $79. Get a pre-cooked smoked turkey for $99. There’s also a ready-to-serve roasted prime rib. A whole one is $650; a half is $325. Need sides? Get cornbread and sausage stuffing for $45, candied yams for $50, whipped potatoes for $35, Brussels sprouts for $60, creamed spinach for $55, or cranberry sauce or giblet gravy for $24 each. House-baked pumpkin, pecan, and apple crumble pies are available for $35 each. To-go offerings are available for pickup from Tuesday, November 21 through Thanksgiving Day. Call 713-862-1814 for ordering details.

Backstreet Cafe
Create a customized feast using dishes from this River Oaks staple. Diners can select from a range of traditional Thanksgiving fare, priced a la carte. Begin with a roast turkey breast for $120 or a whole apricot and mustard-glazed spiral ham for $125. Add on sides such as loaded cauliflower, roasted garlic mashed potatoes, corn pudding, mac and cheese, or sweet potato gratin. A nine-by-seven pan services between four and six people and is $33. To serve eight people, opt for a full, 11-by-9 pan for $49. Pecan and pumpkin pies, apple crisp, a chocolate pecan pie, or pumpkin cheesecake are also available, starting at $34. The full menu is available online. Order by Sunday, November 24 and pickup on Wednesday, November 27 from 11 am to 8 pm.

Federal American Grill
All locations of the American classics restaurant offer to-go Thanksgiving options. Diners can select a full feast, complete with a salad, turkey, spiral ham, stuffing, mashed potatoes, sweet potatoes, cranberry sauce, green bean casserole, and buttermilk biscuits for $165. Those wishing to select sides can get all of them for $125 or order a la carte for $25 each. Order online at least 48 hours in advance.

Feges BBQ
Celebrate a stress-free Thanksgiving with the barbecue spot’s heat-and-serve meats, sides, and desserts. Diners can select from a mix-and-match menu to customize their perfect meal. Main dish options include a turkey breast or two pounds of sliced brisket for $60, a whole rack of pork ribs for $45, or a whole 12-to-15 pound turkey for $135. Sides feed between 10 and 12 people, and diners can choose from selections like spicy Korean-braised greens, pimento mac and cheese, loaded potato mash, or hog fat cornbread for $50 each. Rum raisin bread pudding with caramel for dessert is $50. Sauces and rubs are also available. Customers can fill out the Thanksgiving order form on the website. They’ll receive an invoice and must pay by Friday, November 22 to confirm their order. No cancellations or changes can be made after this date.

Goode Co.
Thanksgiving kits that serve between six and eight people come with a choice of mesquite-smoked turkey breast or a whole mesquite-smoked turkey, as well as sides like potatoes au gratin, "old school" green bean casserole, dinner rolls with whipped sea salt honey butter, and Goode Co.'s signature Brazos Bottom Pecan Pie. Items are also available for purchase a la carte. Preorder through November 21 and pick up on November 26 or 27.

Grupo Herrera
The hospitality group behind Dario’s Steakhouse and Seafood, Galiana’s, Alicia’s, and others has a to-go meal that feeds between 11 and 13 people. It includes turkey, corn stuffing, green beans, sweet mashed potatoes, gravy, cranberry sauce, and a dozen rolls. The cost is $175. Add on a nine-inch pumpkin, apple, or pecan pie for $28 each, or a 10-inch pumpkin cheesecake for $69. Call 832-653-6853 to order. All orders must be picked up on Thursday, November 28 between 10 am and 4pm at Galiana’s.

Hugo’s
Bring authentic, regional Mexican flavors to Thanksgiving with the restaurant’s Family Feast that feeds eight people. Diners can choose a meal with a whole pineapple and habanero spiral ham or a roasted turkey breast and gravy. Both meals include sweet potatoes with condensed milk, corn pudding, roasted red bliss papas bravas, tamal Azteca tortilla casserole, and jalapeno cranberry relish. Choose pumpkin cheesecake or tres leches for dessert. The cost is $325. Order online by Sunday, November 24 for pick up on Wednesday, November 27 from 11 am to 8 pm.

Josephine’s Gulf Coast
Select from a la carte offerings to create a Southern-inspired Thanksgiving spread. Among those available for $35 are andouille cornbread stuffing (add shrimp for an additional $18), red beans and rice, or green bean casserole. Get a dozen biscuits for $25 or whole cornbread for $18. Choose peanut pie for $35 or Mississippi mud pie for $45. Call 713-527-8988 to order by November 21. Pickup is on November 27.

KP's Kitchen
All Houston locations have Thanksgiving Family Packs designed to feed four people. The cost is $150 and each pack includes a 14-to-16-pound herb roasted turkey, along with sage stuffing; harvest salad with herb vinaigrette, bacon-wrapped figs and Vermont syrup glaze; mixed market vegetables with herb butter; Yukon gold mashed potatoes; crispy Brussels sprouts; and pecan apple crumble. Place orders online or by calling 346-240-2678.

Kriti Kitchen
Add a little Greek flair to Thanksgiving with a selection of a la carte sides. Choose from spanakopita, fasolakia, Pappou's stuffing, roasted butternut squash, avgolemono soup, white beans and fennel, herb and cheese biscuits, and ekmek kataifi. Prices range from $10 to $22 for small portions and $18 to $22 for large portions. A roast lamb shank with carrots, potatoes, and caramelized onions is $25 per shank. Get a small moussaka for $22 or a large for $44. Small portions serve two to three people; large portions serve between eight and 10. Place orders online by November 24. Pickup or delivery is Wednesday, November 27.

Lucille's
The Museum District favorite offers Southern-inspired sides and desserts for Thanksgiving. Options include braised collard greens, hot rolls, mac and cheese, cornbread collard green dressing, Virginia-style green beans, twice-baked sweet potatoes, lemon ice box pie, and pecan pie. The full menu and ordering is available via ToastTab. All orders must be placed by Saturday, November 23. Pickup is available on Wednesday, November 27, from 11 am to 3 pm.

Perry’s
The steakhouse has a family-style Thanksgiving dinner to go, which features sliced, smoked turkey breast, a soup or salad, and sides. The meal feeds four and is $149. Add a family-style cheesecake for an additional $29. Meals are available as heat-and-eat or ready-to-serve. Online ordering is now open and pickup is on November 27 or 28.

The Pit Room
Newly recognized as a Michelin Guide Bib Gourmand, this longtime barbecue favorite has multiple options available to go a la carte. Get an 18-pound whole turkey for $110. It’s brined for 48 hours in brown sugar, sage, and apples, then seasoned with house poultry rub and smoked over post oak. Whole briskets averaging five pounds are available for $125, accompanied by a quart of BBQ sauce. Smoked, honey-glazed hams are $75. Add a chocolate chip cookie cake for $27. Pre-batched, 750ml cocktails are also on offer. Get a Margarita for $39 or a Bold Fashioned for $48. Call 281-888-1929 to order from Richmond Avenue or 346-741-5550 to order from the Katy Freeway location.

Roka Akor
Heat-and-serve take-home kits serve four people and include sashimi tacos with tabasco ponzu, avocado, and cherry tomatoes; tuna tataki with yuzu shallot dressing and caramelized onions; lobster miso soup, seasonal mushrooms; arugula and watercress salad with yuzu dressing and brioche toast; salmon teriyaki with pickled cucumber; baby back ribs with cashew and green onions; prime rib eye with wafu dressing and fresh shaved vegetables; truffle mash potatoes; turkey rice hotpot; Japanese strawberry cheesecake; and chocolate cake with mixed berries, along with a bottle of Macrostie Rose of Pinot Noir. The cost is $220. Order online by 5 pm on Tuesday, November 26. Pick up at Roka Akor on Wednesday, November 27 between 4 and 9 pm.

State Fare Kitchen & Bar
Customers can get a Southern-style Thanksgiving turkey dinner that serves between four and six people for $250 from any of the restaurant’s three locations in Memorial City, Sugar Land, or The Woodlands. The meal includes a Southern style deep-fried turkey, buttery mashed potatoes, sautéed green beans with smoked bacon, roasted jalapeño and andouille sausage stuffing, and house-made turkey gravy. All of the sides listed above, along with macaroni and cheese, are also available a la carte for $30 each. Order online by Sunday, November 24 and pick up on Tuesday, November 26 or Wednesday, November 27.

Tony’s
The Greenway Plaza fine-dining restaurant has an array of options for a beautiful take-out Thanksgiving. Begin with beef tenderloin that will serve between eight and 10 people for $350. It comes with horseradish cream and two packets of yeast rolls. Add mashed potatoes for $30; Italian green beans, creamed or cornbread stuffing for $35 each; white cheddar potatoes au gratin for $45, or a quart of cranberry relish for $20. The full menu, complete with additional sides and desserts, is available online. Orders must be placed by 5 pm on Sunday, November 24. Pickup is Wednesday, November 27 between 11 am and 5 pm. To order, complete the online form and email it to the restaurant or call 713-622-6778.

Upper Kirby Bistro
A to-go feast is available for $150, which includes a choice of fried or baked turkey, along with masked potatoes, mac and cheese, green beans, dressing and pie. Place orders on the website and pick up on Wednesday, November 27.

Photo by Iza Romero

Amrina's to-go turkey feast includes a 10-to-12-pound turkey and side dishes for $350.

Willie’s Grill & Icehouse:
Diners can order feasts that serve as few as six to eight people or as many as 16 to 18. Choose spiral glazed ham, whole Cajun turkey or roasted blackened turkey breast. The smaller feast includes mashed potatoes, Mary Beth’s cornbread dressing, and turkey gravy. The larger also includes roasted green beans and bacon, cornbread, and mac and cheese. Pricing starts at $99.99. Holiday Feasts are available chilled for pickup with reheat instructions. Select locations will offer Thanksgiving morning pickup. All orders can be placed online and require minimum 72 hour advance notice.

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