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    Food for Thought

    Houston's historical saviors: Chefs are preserving more than food these days

    Marene Gustin
    Mar 9, 2011 | 2:16 pm
    • “It’s a good feeling to save a building,” says chef Hugo Ortega. “I think thecustomers really appreciate it. The character, the authenticity, it reminds usof what the neighborhood used to be.”
      Photo by Terri Fensel
    • Hugo’s, a mecca for interior Mexican cuisine, a Sunday brunch hot spot and,also, an historical landmark
      Photo by Paula Murphy
    • Crews are working to transform the landmark Tower Theater Art Deco building intoEl Real Tex-Mex.
      Photo by Marene Gustin
    • The 1927 St. Matthews Church morphed into a '70s head shop before becoming chefMark Cox’s high class eatery, Mark's American Cuisine, in 1997.
      Courtesy photo
    • Chances are this building will be converted to a trendy beer bar and hiprestaurant.
      Google Maps
    • Backstreet Cafe is housed in a beautiful 1930s housenear River Oaks.
    • The longtime home to Imperial Plumbing Supply, the Hugo's building stillfeatures the original exposed brick walls, stamped-tin ceiling and iron beams.
      Photo by Paula Murphy
    • Ortega says the original owner occasionally comes into Hugo’s to dine and alwaysthanks them for restoring the building to its former glory.
      Photo by Paula Murphy
    • The entryway at Hugo's
      Photo by Paula Murphy
    • The interior of Mark's American Cuisine has vaulted ceilings because it was oncea church.

    There are a couple of givens about Houston. One is that it’s humid during the summers. And, the traffic sucks.

    And then there’s the fact that developers love to tear down any structure of significance. Remember the Shamrock Hotel? Talk about paving over paradise to put up a parking lot. And then there’s the Jeff Davis Hospital, the Gulf Publishing Building and the Allen Park Inn. All gone, gone, gone.

    But luckily, we are starting to see more and more historic structures saved. And the saviors, often as not, are celebrity chefs.

    “Nationally, it’s a trend in the food industry,” says David Bush spokesman for the Greater Houston Preservation Alliance. “I think a lot of it is part of the green movement, and they always say the greenest building is the one that’s already built.”

    And nowhere is the trend more prevalent in Houston than on lower Westheimer in Montrose.

    Construction fencing rings the old Chances Bar, not exactly an architectural landmark but certainly an historically cultural spot for the city’s lesbian and gay community. Bobby Heugel and the crew from The Anvil Bar & Refuge are turning the building into a new beer bar on one side and chef Chris Shepherd’s Underbelly restaurant on the other.

    “It would have been cheaper to do that (tear it down), but I would never do it,” says Heugel. “I am really passionate about saving Montrose’s history.”

    And right across the street, crews are working fast and furiously to transform the landmark Tower Theater Art Deco building, at into El Real Tex-Mex, a hotly anticipated vintage Tex-Mex joint by Los Tres Amigos: chef Bryan Caswell, partner Bill Floyd and author Robb Walsh. Most of the interior of the W. Scott Dunne-designed 1936 theater was gutted long ago, but that fabulous marquee, repaired after Hurricane Ike damaged it, remains.

    “It’s important to save the façade of the Tower Theater,” says Bush. “It’s a pivot point for Westheimer and an historic landmark for Montrose.”

    But this isn’t exactly a new trend in Montrose. Cruise just down the street and you’ll find Hugo’s, the eponymous and widely lauded eatery of chef Hugo Oretga. It’s a mecca for interior Mexican cuisine, a Sunday brunch hot spot and, also, an historical landmark.

    Built by architect Joseph Finger (who designed Houston’s 1939 Art Deco City Hall) in 1926, the restored brick building won a Greater Houston Preservation Alliance Gold Brick Award for preservation in 2003, when Hugo’s opened.

    The longtime home to Imperial Plumbing Supply, the building still features the original exposed brick walls, stamped-tin ceiling and iron beams. A long row of picture windows front Westheimer Road and a quaint patio sits to one side of the building replete with a gurgling fountain and blooming bougainvilleas.

    “Andrew Kaldis’s (Kaldis Development Interests, Inc.) father used to come to Backstreet Cafe,” says Ortega. “He told us about this building they had and Tracy and I went to see it and we fell in love with it.”

    Ortega’s wife, restaurateur Tracy Vaught, was no stranger to historical eateries. One of the restaurants she owns is Backstreet Cafe, housed in a beautiful 1930s house near River Oaks.

    “The Westheimer building had been closed for a while,” Ortega says, “and the plumbing company had gutted the inside. But Tracy understands the character of old buildings, she knew it would work.”

    So they bought the building and took a couple of years to rehab it, saving many intricate details including the beams, ceiling and original brick. Today it is a charming culinary oasis that pays heed to the neighborhood’s past.

    “It’s a good feeling to save a building,” says Ortega. “I think the customers really appreciate it. The character, the authenticity, it reminds us of what the neighborhood used to be.”

    Ortega says the original owner occasionally comes into Hugo’s to dine and always thanks them for restoring the building to its former glory.

    There are other chefs who have joined the trend in restoring historical properties, in particular Scott Tycer whose Krafts'men Baking is housed in the 1893 old Oriental Textile Mill on 22nd Street in the Heights and whose Gravitas restaurant resides in a former Taft Street warehouse with the original bare bricks and concrete floors.

    But it’s really lower Westheimer where chefs are preserving more than just local fruits. Just a stone’s throw from Hugo’s is Mark’s American Cuisine, the 1927 St. Matthews Church that morphed into a '70s head shop before becoming chef Mark Cox’s high class eatery in 1997.

    And now, just down the road, two more buildings are being restored to soon become hot eateries and bars.

    “I think it’s great what they are doing,” says chef Ortega. “We are all part of this community in this corridor.”

    And both diners and historical preservationists are very happy.

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    Goldee's and Barbs Go North

    2 Michelin-recognized pitmasters cooking up Texas barbecue joint in NYC

    Brianna Caleri
    Feb 26, 2026 | 4:46 pm
    Goldee's barbecue tray
    Photo by Will Milne
    Kirbee's will stay true to the menus at the two barbecue joints that came before it. (Pictured: A tray at Goldee's Bar-B-Q)

    Two important restaurants in the Texas barbecue scene have spawned a new project in a less-expected locale: New York City. Barbs B Q owner Chuck Charnichart and former Goldee's Bar-B-Q partner Jonny White will open Kirbee's, a restaurant combining classic dishes from both of its progenitors, at 55 McGuinness Blvd. South in Greenpoint (a neighborhood in Brooklyn) in about four to five months, White says.

    Both White and Charnichart have led two of Texas's most well-regarded barbecue joints. Located in Fort Worth, Goldee's ranked No. 1 on Texas Monthly's list of the state's 50 best barbecue restaurants in 2021 and ranked No. 3 on the 2025 list. Charnichart, who worked at Goldee's, opened Barbs B Q in Lockhart in 2023. Earlier this week, Barbs earned an impressive three-star review in the New York Times. Both restaurants hold Bib Gourmand designations in the Michelin Guide.

    Eater New York broke the news on February 24, and White caught CultureMap up with some additional written details.

    As Eater points out, Charnichart brings creative dishes from her Lockhart restaurant like pork ribs with lime zest, Mexican-spiced brisket, and the famous "green spaghett" made with poblanos and cilantro. White brings lauded barbecue from Fort Worth that's more fit for purists, including smoked turkey, brisket, and classic sides.

    For many, Barbs B Q represents the Texas barbecue vanguard. Now New Yorkers will be in on it, too.Photo by Bryce Gilbertson

    White further tells CultureMap that the menu will probably be organized into plates and trays so that guests can sample one barbecue joint or the other.

    White has been in New York for seven months after selling his shares of Goldee's. He's secured a building and is working with contractors to convert it for barbecue greatness. The two pitmasters will get to work together physically soon — although White doesn't spill the beans about whether Charnichart plans to move there or just visit.

    Kirbee's exterior New York Kirbee's will take over this cheerful space.Photo by Jonny White

    "Chuck is one of my best friends and an amazing chef," White says. "I’m super excited for us to be working together again and we are excited to be in New York!"

    One of the adjustments the duo had to make to thrive in the Big Apple is to make do with a smaller smoker setup. Instead of traditional offset smokers — the large barrels Texas foodies are used to seeing out back at their favorite barbecue joints — Kirbee's will use smoker ovens. White confirms the decision was about space, but he's hopeful the more consistent cooking process will actually be better than the Texas norm. "I think it will be interesting for people to compare," he says.

    The real question for barbecue-lovers who are in it for the culture: How will New Yorkers deal with the lines?

    "I think they’re used to long lines and being served to order because of Katz," White says, referring to Katz's Delicatessen, an ultra-famous New York deli since 1888 that's known for its gigantic pastrami sandwiches. But if it's not the brisket that transports Yankees to the Southwest, the Texas pitmaster looks forward to introducing them to Waco's own Big Red.

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