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    Food for Thought

    Here's to homemade bread, as long as someone else bakes it

    Marene Gustin
    Feb 17, 2010 | 7:00 am
    • Sourdough toast with butter
      Photo by lissalou66
    • Yeast rolls
      Photo by Rob Holland

    You know how those old prison movies talk about a diet of bread and water? Sometimes I think that’s not such a bad idea. Okay, maybe if they switched the water with wine, as in "a loaf of bread, a jug of wine and thou."

    I haven’t always been a bread fan (nope, not even when they recorded “Baby I’m-a Want You,” I mean, what kind of grammar was that?) and I have never personally baked bread. But we have some seriously good bread in this city.

    Randy Evans’ pull-a-part yeasty rolls at Haven sometimes evilly ruin my appetite for his wonderful meals. Like potato chips, you can’t eat just one.

    And, of course, there’s chef Scott Tycer’s Krafts’men Baking Company that supplies many local restaurants with some fine slices. Many are the times I’ve purposely shown up before the Montrose-Freed Library was open just to sneak next door to the Krafts’men retail store for some warm sourdough toast and butter.

    And speaking of sourdough, chef/partner James Cole of Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar in River Oaks has not only made me take most of my filet mignon home in a doggie bag after eating way too much bread, but he also once gave my friend some of his starter dough. Said friend did actually bake bread for a while, with some success. But we both now have a new bread fix, which I can say that my waistline is not really in agreement with my taste buds about.

    You see, I have my own personal baker now.

    I’ve been going to Urban Harvest Farmers Market on Eastside for years, and almost from the beginning I started buying cheddar jalapeño loafs from Richard Cole. Rain or shine, he’s shown up at the market every Saturday with his tables laden with olive loafs and coconut pies and his wonderful, thick loaves of bread.

    Richard is a manager at a Galleria-area restaurant, and does baking on the side. And his loaves are not always perfect, but that’s another thing I love about them. You never know how many peppers will peek out of the slice you cut, or if the loaf will be tall and fluffy or maybe a tad compacted. It’s like you made it yourself. Which, obviously, I don’t, but I can pass it off as homemade bread, easily.

    Over the years, Richard has learned that I—and the afore-mentioned friend—love jalapeños. We went through a period where the peppers were too abundant, but now that’s settled down some. And the really delightful thing is I now get my own special loaf every Saturday. He bakes it just the way I like it — just enough peppers and cheese — and then marks the loaf with a slice of jalapeño on top, so he knows it’s mine!

    Doesn’t matter when I show up, he keeps my special loaf in his truck and when I stroll by, he runs to get it.

    No, I have no need to bake my own bread. I have my own personal baker. And these fresh, fragrant loaves make wonderful sandwiches, lovely bruschetta drizzled with olive oil and grated Parmesan and ground black pepper and, as I’ve recently discovered, great croutons for Caesar salads.

    So here’s to homemade bread, as long as it’s made in someone else’s home.

    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    8 miles high

    Houston chef's menu takes off on United's premium business class offering

    Eric Sandler
    Jun 10, 2026 | 4:59 pm
    United Chef's Table chefs
    Courtesy of United
    Justin Yu, far left, is one of 11 participating chefs.

    United Airlines has shared more details about its new partnership with Chef’s Table, the acclaimed Netflix documentary series, including the menus created by the 11 participating chefs for travelers flying its premium Polaris business class seating.

    For flights departing from Houston, United and Chef’s Table recruited Justin Yu, the James Beard Award-winning chef behind Theodore Rex, a fine dining restaurant in downtown that holds a Bib Gourmand designation in the Michelin Guide. In addition, Yu and his business partner Bobby Heugel own Houston hospitality group Thorough Fare, which operates bars and restaurants including Anvil, Better Luck Tomorrow, Squable, Donna’s, and a new, still-unnamed restaurant in Montrose that’s slated to open later this year.

    Beginning August 1, people departing from George Bush Intercontinental Airport will be able to dine on Yu’s three-course menu that consists of:

    • Appetizer: Deviled eggs with white soy, aged cheddar, and chives
    • Salad: Chicory salad with spiced bacon, chickpeas, cucumber, onion, and oregano mustard vinaigrette
    • Entrée: Braised Texas short rib with ragout of mushrooms, red miso, and black eyed peas

    “I wanted that slightly Texan touch,” Yu told CultureMap in March. “To me, the Houston part of it is the most important. There’s such a level of diversity. Introducing light touches of that to the meal was something I considered.”

    Other participating chefs include Nancy Silverton (Osteria Mozza in Los Angeles), whose menu includes an appetizer of burrata with braised leeks, shaved Brussels sprouts salad, and beef brasato with garlic mashed potatoes; Jenner Tomaska (Esmé, Petite Edith, and The Alston in Chicago), who has created a braised leeks appetizer, an arugula salad, and halibut with sauce matelote; Tomos Parry (Mountain and Brat in London), whose menu includes an appetizer of grilled beef filet, lobster salad with grilled peach, and slow-roasted lamb with smoked potatoes.

    Chefs representing United’s destinations in Newark, Denver, San Francisco, Washington, D.C., São Paulo, and Tokyo are also participating. The menus will be available through September 2026. They’ll be updated with new seasonal items beginning in October. Customers may opt for the Chef's Table meals beginning five days and up to 24 hours prior to departure.

    "At its core, this collaboration with Chef's Table is rooted in a shared ambition to redefine what inflight dining can be," said Aaron McMillan, United's Managing Director of Hospitality Programs, in a statement. "Because our leading global network reaches into the world's greatest food cities, we're able to work hand-in-hand with world-class chefs and translate their points of view into dishes intentionally designed for the realities of travel and inspired by destinations we serve."

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    news/restaurants-bars

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