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    Food for Thought

    Here's to homemade bread, as long as someone else bakes it

    Marene Gustin
    Feb 17, 2010 | 7:00 am
    • Sourdough toast with butter
      Photo by lissalou66
    • Yeast rolls
      Photo by Rob Holland

    You know how those old prison movies talk about a diet of bread and water? Sometimes I think that’s not such a bad idea. Okay, maybe if they switched the water with wine, as in "a loaf of bread, a jug of wine and thou."

    I haven’t always been a bread fan (nope, not even when they recorded “Baby I’m-a Want You,” I mean, what kind of grammar was that?) and I have never personally baked bread. But we have some seriously good bread in this city.

    Randy Evans’ pull-a-part yeasty rolls at Haven sometimes evilly ruin my appetite for his wonderful meals. Like potato chips, you can’t eat just one.

    And, of course, there’s chef Scott Tycer’s Krafts’men Baking Company that supplies many local restaurants with some fine slices. Many are the times I’ve purposely shown up before the Montrose-Freed Library was open just to sneak next door to the Krafts’men retail store for some warm sourdough toast and butter.

    And speaking of sourdough, chef/partner James Cole of Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar in River Oaks has not only made me take most of my filet mignon home in a doggie bag after eating way too much bread, but he also once gave my friend some of his starter dough. Said friend did actually bake bread for a while, with some success. But we both now have a new bread fix, which I can say that my waistline is not really in agreement with my taste buds about.

    You see, I have my own personal baker now.

    I’ve been going to Urban Harvest Farmers Market on Eastside for years, and almost from the beginning I started buying cheddar jalapeño loafs from Richard Cole. Rain or shine, he’s shown up at the market every Saturday with his tables laden with olive loafs and coconut pies and his wonderful, thick loaves of bread.

    Richard is a manager at a Galleria-area restaurant, and does baking on the side. And his loaves are not always perfect, but that’s another thing I love about them. You never know how many peppers will peek out of the slice you cut, or if the loaf will be tall and fluffy or maybe a tad compacted. It’s like you made it yourself. Which, obviously, I don’t, but I can pass it off as homemade bread, easily.

    Over the years, Richard has learned that I—and the afore-mentioned friend—love jalapeños. We went through a period where the peppers were too abundant, but now that’s settled down some. And the really delightful thing is I now get my own special loaf every Saturday. He bakes it just the way I like it — just enough peppers and cheese — and then marks the loaf with a slice of jalapeño on top, so he knows it’s mine!

    Doesn’t matter when I show up, he keeps my special loaf in his truck and when I stroll by, he runs to get it.

    No, I have no need to bake my own bread. I have my own personal baker. And these fresh, fragrant loaves make wonderful sandwiches, lovely bruschetta drizzled with olive oil and grated Parmesan and ground black pepper and, as I’ve recently discovered, great croutons for Caesar salads.

    So here’s to homemade bread, as long as it’s made in someone else’s home.

    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    What's Eric Eating Episode 584

    Beard Award-winning Latin chef dishes on big Houston move and menu overhaul

    CultureMap Staff
    Sep 11, 2026 | 4:32 pm
    Exilio Latin Flair Douglas Rodriguez
    Courtesy of Exilio Latin Flair
    James Beard Award winner Douglas Rodriguez is the executive chef of Exilio Latin Flair.

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” chef Douglas Rodriguez and Bari Hospitality Group co-owner Pedro Teyuca join CultureMap editor Eric Sandler to discuss Exilio Latin Flair, the company’s pan-Latin restaurant in Montrose.



    Opened in April in the former Verde Garden space, Exilio recently recruited Rodriguez to serve as executive chef and revamp its menu. Known as the “Godfather of Nuevo Latino Cuisine,” the chef brings an impressive resume to his role, including winning Rising Star Chef in the 1996 James Beard Awards, competing on season one of Top Chef Masters, and earning a Recommended designation in the Michelin Guide for Nikos, a Greek restaurant in Durham, NC. As he explains in the episode, he and Bari co-owner Tommy Nally first developed the idea for Exilio when they worked together in Vegas, so he jumped at the opportunity to bring the restaurant to life.

    Rodriguez just rolled out a new menu for Exilio that includes a total revamp of the restaurant’s ceviches and entrees. Specific dishes include tuna watermelon ceviche, mixto seafood ceviche with leche de tigre, Colombian-style chicken empanadas, snapper Veracruz, and a smoked ribeye.

    “The sauce is made with panca peppers (Peruvian red pepper), watermelon juice, yuzu juice. Then it’s slices of tuna and slices of watermelon. I kind of single them,” Rodriguez says about the tuna watermelon ceviche. “The sauce has red onion, Thai basil, tarragon, a herb you don’t usually find in a ceviche. It’s very light, refreshing, herbaceous — hits a lot of different areas in the palate for a simple, two ingredient dish.”

    The chef adds that he’s been getting to know Houston through its restaurants. He cites Mala Sichuan and Hugo’s as two places that have impressed him. He also hails Love Croissants, whose owner, chef Omar Pereney, worked for Rodriguez prior to moving to Houston.

    “I have a long list of places to explore, and I’m excited that this is a big food city,” Rodriguez adds. “I haven’t been to Maximo yet. That’s at the top of my list. I’m excited to be here and get people into the restaurant to try the food.”

    For his part, Teyuca provides an update on Bari’s plans to open a second location in The Woodlands later in September. He also shares exciting news about the company’s plans to add a sushi bar to the lounge above Georgia James, the Montrose steakhouse it purchased from Underbelly Hospitality in 2024.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 8 am on ESPN 97.5.

    Exilio Latin Flair Douglas Rodriguez

    Courtesy of Exilio Latin Flair

    James Beard Award winner Douglas Rodriguez is the executive chef of Exilio Latin Flair.

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