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    King of Kirby

    The King of Kirby builds his Houston restaurant empire: It's a neighborhood thing

    Marene Gustin
    Marene Gustin
    Jan 26, 2014 | 8:19 am

    The King of Kirby Drive, otherwise known as Johnny Carrabba, is about to open his third new restaurant in the neighborhood in two years. Across from the new Carrabba’s, the huge brick façade of Grace’s is almost finished.

    “We’re hoping to open the second week in February,” Carrabba says. “But you never know with new buildings.” Grace’s was originally set to open last fall. (CultureMap was the first outlet to break the news of the new restaurant.)

    “It will be just as casual as Carrabba’s, but the menu will be very different,” Carrabba says.

    When Carrabba started to build a multi-story garage on Argonne Street it seemed like overkill for the original Carrabba’s on Kirby Drive that Carrabba and his uncle, Damian Mandola, opened in 1986. Not to be confused with the corporate chain of Carrabba’s now in 32 states which was a joint venture with Outback Steakhouse, Inc. The Carrabba family owns and operates the original and another location on Voss.

    Johnny doesn’t have anything to do with the chain anymore but he does get a nice royalty from the franchise.

    Besides employees who have been there since day one, some loyal customers have also been eating there for 27 years.

    Shortly after the garage came Mia’s, named for Carrabba’s daughter and opened in 2012. A fast casual eatery with the feel of a Hill Country restaurant, the place is always packed with those who love the chicken fingers and cream gravy, squared hamburgers, milkshakes and, of course, the free soft serve ice cream.

    And then came the new “original” Carrabba’s just next door to the original. A larger, prettier version of the 1986 restaurant, that features an open kitchen, private rooms and a pizza bar with a wood-burning oven where you can sit and watch Rueben, who’s been making pizzas since the first day in 1986, make your pie.

    “I was across the street at Mr. Car Wash one day when they were cutting down all the big trees along Kirby Drive,” Carrabba recalls. “And I looked at Carrabba’s and it just looked old. It was like a revelation.”

    That’s when he decided to rebuild it from the ground up. And, since he had a lot of land around Kirby Drive, he decided to build two more restaurants as well. And thus was born a small eating empire.

    “I like family owned businesses,” he says. “I want the neighborhood to feel like we’re part of their family.”

    And they do. Besides employees who have been at Carrabba’s since day one, there are local customers who have also been eating there for 27 years.

    “I pinch myself everyday,” he says. “Twenty seven years and we’re still going strong because we go back to our original vision, quality food, good service and a neighborhood feel.”

    Family Vision, Family Restaurant

    The new Carrabba’s bears the name Johnny IV on the side of the building, a nod to Carrabba’s son. And Grace’s is named for his grandmother.

    “Without her,” says Carrabba, “there wouldn’t be a Carrabba’s or a Mandola’s or anything else.” She was the family foodie matriarch.

    “I like family owned businesses. I want the neighborhood to feel like we’re part of their family.”

    Expect Grace’s to look like your grandma’s home, with smaller rooms inside the 10,000-square-foot house. Carrabba says it will feel intimate and cozy and will serve up American comfort food, not Italian.

    “Chicken pot pie, Gulf Coast seafood, smoked rib roast, very eclectic,” he says. “You can get a hamburger or steak or fish. It will have a very different feel from Carrabba’s or Mia’s.”

    Restaurants have come and gone along this neck of Kirby Drive, think of Pesce and Hawthorn, Ava and Alto. But somehow Carrabba continues to thrive adding new restaurants without drawing business away from the original Carrabba’s.

    When the new building opened I was at that same fateful car wash across the street. Despite the ongoing construction at the site there was a huge sign declaring “Now Open.”

    I hightailed it across the street and snagged a table before the crowd came. Pretty soon there was a line snaking out the door waiting for tables. And this was without any advertising, except the sign, and no real buzz on social media or food blogs.

    Clearly, Johnny Carrabba is doing something right.

    Johnny Carrabba is about to open his third new restaurant in the neighborhood in two years: Grace's.

    News_Carraba's_new restaurant_River Oaks_Mia's_Grace's
    Photo by Tyler Rudick
    Johnny Carrabba is about to open his third new restaurant in the neighborhood in two years: Grace's.
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    news/restaurants-bars

    What's Eric Eating Episodes 523 and 524

    Acclaimed Austin duo dish on their wine-obsessed neighborhood restaurant

    CultureMap Staff
    Jan 16, 2026 | 1:08 pm
    Birdie's Arjav Ezekiel Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel
    Photo by Mackenzie Smith Kelly
    Birdie's owners Arjav Ezekiel and chef Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel are this week's guests.

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” chef Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel and beverage director Arjav Ezekiel join CultureMap Houston editor Eric Sandler to discuss their Austin restaurant Birdie’s.



    Widely considered one of Austin’s top restaurants, Birdie’s has earned local, regional, and national acclaim, including a place of the 2025 Time100 Next list, Food & Wine magazine’s 2023 Restaurant of the Year, and a 2025 James Beard Award for Outstanding Professional in Beverage Service to Ezekiel. In a 2024 column, James Beard Award winner Chris Shepherd recommended that Houstonians visit Birdie’s the next time they’re in Austin.

    Sandler’s conversation with the duo begins with a little bit about how they met while working together in New York and their decision to move to Austin. From there, it turns to Birdie’s counter service model that’s unusual for a restaurant of its quality. Sandler asks whether not offering traditional table service has lowered the restaurant’s profits.

    “It’s the opposite. Because we have a leaner labor force in the dining room, our margins are probably double what they would be if we were a traditional restaurant,” Ezekiel explains. “What we’re able to do is take a portion of that margin and invest it back into our team. We talk about ‘Conscious Capitalism’ a lot. That extra margin pays for paid family leave that we offer to everybody on our team, the month of paid and planned vacation every year, the subsidized health insurance, the subsidized mental therapy we offer. We needed to find more change under the cushions, so we could invest it back into our team.”

    Initially, Birdie’s opened with an a la carte menu. In 2025, it switched to a prix fixe format that offers diners six courses for $80. The switch means the restaurant serves fewer diners per night, which has shortened the wait to order from up to an hour to 20 minutes or less. Chef Malechek-Ezekiel explains that this change has also expanded the range of dishes she’s able to serve and broadened the techniques she uses to create them.

    “We can cook fish confit. We can use the Japanese robata grill to cook on charcoal. We can hot smoke fish to order. Now, I feel like, wow, look what we can do now. Before, we had the skills, but we couldn’t physically do it with how tiny our space is.”

    Listen to the full episode to hear more about how Birdie’s guides diners through its wine list, which of the monthly prix fixe menus has been the most successful, and the couple’s thoughts on potentially opening a new restaurant.



    In this week’s other episode, Craft Pita chef-owner Raffi Nasr joins Sandler to discuss some recent news in the world of Houston restaurants. Their topics include Tex-Mex restaurant Superica transforming into a casual steakhouse; the imminent opening of delivery-focused Shredders Pizza; and a change in operations at Weights + Measures.

    In the restaurant of the week segment, Nasr and Sandler describe their recent meal at Oru, a new sushi restaurant in the Heights from the team behind Michelin-recognized omakase counter Neo and Upper Kirby hand roll concept Kira. Listen to hear their favorite dishes as well as Sandler’s quibbles with a couple of aspects of the experience.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 9 am on ESPN 97.5.

    Birdie's Arjav Ezekiel Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel

    Photo by Mackenzie Smith Kelly

    Birdie's owners Arjav Ezekiel and chef Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel are this week's guests.

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    news/restaurants-bars
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