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    Chef Change

    Promising Washington Ave restaurant starts the year with an exciting new chef

    Eric Sandler
    Jan 5, 2016 | 11:05 am

    The new year means a new face in the kitchen at The Durham House, the promising upscale Southern/Cajun restaurant that replaced Woodrows Heights this fall. Original chef Don Schoenburg has departed. Mike McElroy, the popular local chef whose most recent post consisted of helming food truck The Rollin' Kitchen for Gr8 Plate Hospitality, took over on Monday.

    Owner Raj Natarajan Jr tapped Schoenburg to transform Woodrows Heights into The Durham House, and the chef attracted strong initial buzz by replacing the restaurant's familiar po' boys and fried seafood with elevated dishes like stuffed rabbit loin and lamb tartar. According to Natarajan, Schoenburg is departing for personal reasons.

    While Schoenburg's presence will be missed, McElroy's extensive resume suggests he'll be able to step in. Prior to developing The Rollin' Kitchen's menu of casual Cajun fare like boudin balls and shrimp etoufee, McElroy worked in celebrated New Orleans restaurants like Redfish and Commander's Palace.

    "I felt the offer of the position was a great opportunity that I couldn't pass up," McElroy tells CultureMap.

    "Our selection of Mike as the executive chef was a function of our desire to bring in a person with deep roots in the food community of Houston, and the greater Gulf Coast, as well as a proven skill set that would contribute to the continual refinement of the dishes and preparations coming out of the kitchen of The Durham House," Natarajan writes in an email. "Serendipitously, Mike’s desire to move into a full kitchen, the style of his food, his extensive butchery and charcuterie experience, and his background in New Orleans, San Francisco, and Houston aligned perfectly with most every point on our chef wish list, and thus effective 1/4/2016 he will be officially joining the team!"

    Look for McElroy to expand the restaurant's cold bar, introduce grass fed beef and develop an in-house charcuterie program. "Mike is going to be reducing the over all number of items on the menu, so that we can assure that every item on the menu will be truly incredible, and we can execute an extremely refined level of service such that dishes can be modified as desired, as well as adjusting dishes on the fly to amplify the harmony between food and beverage pairings," Natarajan adds.

    A new menu rolls out January 20 — just in time for the start of crawfish season.

    Mike McElroy is the new chef at The Durham House.

    Rolling Kitchen Mike McElroy
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Mike McElroy is the new chef at The Durham House.
    washington-avenuechefs
    news/restaurants-bars

    firing up Montrose

    New Houston seafood restaurant adds live-fire flair to Japanese flavors

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 3, 2025 | 10:02 am
    Casa Kenji restaurant
    Photo by Becca Wright
    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    An ambitious new seafood restaurant is coming to Montrose next week. Casa Kenji will open on Tuesday, December 9.

    Located in the former Andiron space (3201 Allen Pkwy), Casa Kenji is the first Houston project for New Orleans restaurateur Malachi DuPre, a former LSU standout who played briefly in the NFL before establishing Kenji and Kenji Kazoku restaurants in New Orleans. Together with former LSU teammate John “B-John” Ballis and Houston chef Bigler “Biggie” Cruz, Casa Kenji will blend Latin and Japanese influences while also incorporating live-fire elements into the restaurant’s dishes. Cruz, whose resume includes a lengthy stint at Uchi as well as working at critically acclaimed Houston seafood restaurant Golfstrømmen, tells CultureMap that Casa Kenji’s approach is the first time he can be himself in the kitchen.

    “My perfect restaurant was always based on the live fire and sushi combination,” Cruz says. “My mom cooked with wood for my entire life. The live fire creates completely different flavors. The smoky flavors, the sear from the charcoal — they create a different type of memory for me.”

    The use of live fire techniques will permeate Casa Kenji’s menus in ways both big and small. For example, diners will be able to feast on prawns grilled directly on charcoal and served with yuzu chili garlic, or savor lightly seared Japanese wagyu tataki paired with mushrooms. Even raw dishes will benefit from the restaurant’s wood-burning grill and stove.

    “Every vegetable we peel, we make into an ash that’s a topping for the dishes. It adds a different layer of flavor,” Cruz says. Look for it in the scallop aguachile, among others.

    Even vegetables get a smoky component, as in a cabbage dish that’s braised with dashi and soy sauce before being roasted and served with an onion soubise that Cruz says he developed based on techniques he learned from Golfstrømmen chef Christopher Haatuft.

    “It’s rich, super savory, with smoky layers, and you get brightness from the shiso gremolata. I think it will be a signature dish for us,” the chef says.

    One change to the interior is the addition of a six-seat omakase counter that looks into the kitchen. Cruz promises those diners will have an even more elevated experience than the restaurant’s regular menu, including ingredients such as Japanese wagyu and premium fish flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market.

    Beyond its cuisine, Casa Kenji hopes to stand out with its spacious outdoor patio. Since very few Japanese-inspired restaurants in Houston offer outdoor seating, it should appeal to diners who want a little vitamin D along with their tuna crudo.

    “We’re proud to showcase the craft and creativity that defines Casa Kenji,” co-founders Cruz, Ballis, and DuPre said in a statement. “With chef Bigler Cruz at the helm — blending live-fire technique with the discipline of Japanese tradition — we’re equally honored and excited to share a unique concept that is truly rooted in passion, culture, and community.”

    Casa Kenji will be open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday beginning at 4 pm. Reservations are available on Resy.

    Casa Kenji restaurant

    Photo by Becca Wright

    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    news/restaurants-bars

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