The business of fashion
Houston has what it takes to be a fashion center: Here's a blueprint for action
Only recently has anyone given Houston a second thought as a center for the fashion industry. Many outsiders have not considered Houston to even be remotely fashionable as a city. I'm out to change that perception.
Of course there are those who are extremely fashionable (Lynn Wyatt, Becca Cason Thrash and others) and are recognized as such by designers the world over. It is the allure of those fashionable Houstonians that drives Audi Fashion Houston. The designers I invite every year to show at Fashion Houston come to court that customer. As a retail market, Houston is important, as evidenced by the recent openings of Prada and Miu Miu stores here while others, such as Louis Vuitton, keep expanding.
But having a lot of luxury brands and designer stores occupying real estate in a city does not make it a fashion center. It's the business of the fashion business that defines that. Think New York, Paris, London, Milan. Those are fashion cities by this definition.
Look at Dallas
Yes, Dallas is a fashion center so lets look at our neighbors to the north for a moment. While there are some retailers that choose to open doors in Dallas first (and yes it stings every time that happens) that is not what makes Dallas a fashion center. Dallas is a fashion market center. With the competing Dallas Market Center, which includes an apparel and accessories mart, and F.I.G. (Fashion Industry Gallery), the city hosts regional retailers and some national ones who come to buy for their stores.
Just as Kim Dawson and Trammell Crow brilliantly proved in Dallas, two powerful and resourceful people can make big things happen.
The idea of a Dallas Apparel Mart was the brainchild of my longtime friend and mentor, Kim Dawson, who was a local model working the Tea Room at Neiman Marcus downtown when she convinced legendary real estate developer Trammell Crow if he would build it they would come. He did and it happened.
Starting with the first tenant, the Kim Dawson Model Agency, the massive complex on Stemmons Freeway (a straight shot from Dallas / Ft. Worth International Airport and nestled in between some fine hotels), the Dallas Apparel Mart was a massive success, as was Dawson's agency. She was the catalyst, bringing all her contacts in the fashion business to the desk of Crow, and Dallas became a fashion center and still is, while Dawson built the largest and most successful model and talent agency outside of New York and LA.
How Houston can be a fashion hub
So, Houston as a fashion design and production hub? You bet! When so many other cities have fantasized about adding fashion to their resume, how and why Houston? I have given this considerable thought, initially inspired by the success and recognition of Houston's own Chloe Dao.
From the moment of her big win on Project Runway, Chloe has drawn the spotlight to Houston. More importantly, she has passed the ultimate test; she has succeeded season after season, proving that she is a viable, relevant fashion designer outside of New York City. No small feat, I want to point out. Houston owes her a standing ovation for keeping her business "Made in Houston" and for giving us a very cool retail shopping source in her successful Lot 8 store in Rice Village.
Houston owes Chloe Dao a standing ovation for keeping her business "Made in Houston."
The second bell rang for me when native Houstonian Gregory Fourticq returned home after many years in New York, where he was at the top of the fashion world working at the right hand of Calvin Klein, Donna Karan, John Varvatos and Carolina Herrera.
Seizing the opportunity to snap up the city's top — and one of the few — fashion manufacturing businesses, he launched two incredibly successful fashion lines: MooBoo's (for the uber stylish little girl) and TimesTwo for the super chic grown up girl. He also turns out haute couture-quality finishes for the amazing local designer Jerri Moore and others. In less than two years, this local fashion factory is being sought after by international design houses.
Gaining traction
The success of Chloe, Gregory, Jerri and others such as fashion designer David Peck and accessories designer Elaine Turner establishes that Houston, for the very first time ever, has a sound, solid, successful fashion business developing. Taking that plus the success of Fashion Houston the past two years and Houston has, at long last, got some traction!
This has gotten the attention of the leadership at the Greater Houston Partnership. I have, on more than one occasion, bent the ear of GHP executives and recently CEO Jeff Moseley, who invited me to identify for his various department heads why I and others believe Houston has a chance at attracting this industry to our city. Here's what I outlined in that meeting:
Economics
No state income tax
Low labor costs
Low land and building costs
Low operational costs
Access
With one of the most important and busiest airports in the world, Houston is accessible, nonstop to every other major city in North America and dozens of global destinations.
The Port of Houston is the largest foreign tonnage port in the United States, with container ships queing up daily to deposit their shipments from China and across Asia, India, Africa, Europe, where the greatest percentage of textiles are produced. Fabrics, trims, beading, indeed everything that goes into producing a fashion line sail right into our very own port each and every day. These textiles are the lifeblood of the fashion industry and they arrive here first before being trucked or flown to New York and elsewhere.
A well established customs clearing and processing industry. The next time you're driving to IAH, take note of all the many buildings which surround the airport. They house customs clearing centers and warehouses for goods coming to and going from Houston to the world.
Talent
With Houston Community College's fashion programs and those taught at The Art Institute, Houston has two highly respected institutions turning out well-trained, well-educated, experienced young talent who, until now, have had to leave to pursue their dreams and goals and to have their talents and gifts appreciated and utilized. We must incubate this incredible talent pool and support them and nurture them along. Having great talent available to the industry as essential in fashion as engineers are to the energy industry.
Lifestyle
Houston is a friendly, welcoming city. We pride ourselves on this. When business people come to Houston they are greeted with our legendary hospitality and are appreciated and welcomed by our dynamic business community.
Housing is cheap and available. Hotels, too. For less than the cost of a tiny apartment in New York, fashion executives can have a large house with a pool and luxury car in the garage.
The cost of living in Houston is well below any of the other major cities in the world. Dining out, a passion for Houstonians, is inexpensive and we all know how great the food is here.
Houston is a true melting pot of every race, creed, nationality and orientation. Houston's diversity is amazing. People of all walks of life are accepted here and thrive here.
Culturally, Houston is right up there with New York and Los Angeles and we have a thriving artists community here of sculptors, painters, photographers, musicians, writers, actors — you name it, we've got it.
Houston is young and educated and energetic. Yes, it's really hot and muggy here in the summer but the other nine months are GREAT!
Houston is young and educated and energetic. Yes, it's really hot and muggy here in the summer but the other nine months are GREAT!
Our city is chock full of gorgeous gals and handsome guys who enjoy an active lifestyle by day and by night! It's a fun city and a great place to meet people who become lifelong friends or spouses.
Houston is a nice, comfortable place to live and to raise children. Life here is easy and Austin and Galveston are so close by.
Opportunity
Our local fashion success stories must be told and the pioneers who have created these stories are diehard Houstonians only too willing to spread the word and advocate for others to come and join them.
Houston can truly compete with China and other fashion production markets in terms of price, quality and turn-around time. I know this to be true. My business partner and I chose Houston to produce a luxury line of dog apparel and accessories because it made complete sense. Many a manufacturer in China was eager for our business but the economics and convenience of producing here made our decision for us and we are thrilled with the our decision.
Made in the USA is, I believe, of growing importance to the American consumer.
Development and Investment
Real estate developers are being approached now to design and create a single center with design spaces, offices for publicists and marketing professionals and other support businesses, production facilities for the manufacture of soft and hard goods — a showcase space for events and fashion shows.
Putting the brilliant minds in our city to task with this challenge would not only put us on the fashion map it would make us heroes.
I have suggested repurposing a large building on the east side of US 59, opposite the George R. Brown Convention Center. It should be the first "green" center for fashion as well, being fully sustainable and creating models and initiatives for all fashion producers to copy. The fashion industry is one of the biggest polluters in terms of the waste it creates. Putting the brilliant minds in our city to task with this challenge would not only put us on the fashion map it would make us heroes.
Houston is entreprenurial by it's very nature. This city was built by bold pioneers, risk takers and entrepreneurs and it continues to thrive as such.
The GHP is wise to recognize this growth opportunity and is generously supporting these initial efforts to make this happen. If we join forces to develop this industry we can do it. The talent is here. The opportunity is now.
Just as Dawson and Crow brilliantly proved, two powerful and resourceful people are enough to become the catalyst for big things to happen and that the "build it and they will come" theory applies here given all that Houston has to offer and all that is at our fingertips.
One professional observation of my own doing business here: Many in the community are going to have to get on top of their game and be responsible about returning calls and emails and improve their overall communication skills. I live by the 24-hour rule. All calls, etc., returned within 24 hours. That is one thing many local fashion people need to really get under control. Otherwise, we can do this!!!
Neal Hamil is creative director of Fashion Houston and former top executive at Ford Models and Elite Model Management in New York.