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    where to eat and drink in Sonoma County

    CultureMap Wine Guy Chris Shepherd journeys to Sonoma County to sample region's best wineries and restaurants

    Chris Shepherd
    Jul 27, 2023 | 10:45 am

    Editor's note: Long before Chris Shepherd became a James Beard Award-winning chef, he developed enough of a passion for wine to work at Brennan's of Houston as a sommelier. He maintains that interest to this day. When Chris expressed interest in writing about wine-related topics for CultureMap, we said yes.

    In this week's column, he shares his favorite wineries and restaurants in Sonoma County, California. Take it away, Chris.

    I don’t need to tell you this, but it has been hot. When it’s hot, it’s time to get outta town! I love to venture out to wine growing regions for relaxation. My wife and I recently hit up Sonoma County for some new experiences and new places to try.

    Our first stop was a winery that I have forever wanted visit — Rochioli, which is near the Russian River. You must book a tasting there prior to arrival, but it’s worth it because of its majestic views of the vineyards, lots of knowledge, and four killer wines — Sauvignon Blanc, a rocking Chardonnay, Rosé of Pinot, and the Estate Pinot Noir.

    They refund the price of admission if you purchase two bottles, which you should. They make other wines that are very special and only go to their wine club, which I attempted to join and was informed that they will reach out to me in 5 years when my allocation is ready, so . . . I will be waiting. And waiting. I’m still waiting. It will be worth it. I know it. I’m still waiting. It will be delicious.

    For lunch, we went to the new Montage Hotel for a quick bite, and it was a beautiful setting. I’m going to need some lottery money to stay there, but it was really pretty. The rooms seem to amazingly float in the trees overlooking the valley. The chicken schnitzel and a burger did fine to keep us going and on our to our next spot.

    A bunch of tasting rooms are nestled away on the square in Healdsburg, but we were on our mission to taste at Marine Layer. It’s only been around for a few years, but they have it dialed in. Let me run you through the lineup. Vermentino that I would absolutely love in very large formats because it was delicious and so easy to drink as well as rosé, three different Chardonnays, three different Pinot Noirs, and a sparkling rosé.

    I was really impressed by what they are doing in such a short time. Each wine definitely shows its terroir. And they have a very reasonable pricing structure. If you get your hands on them, you won’t be sad about it.

    Next, head on over to Sebastopol for a winery I have loved from afar for quite some time. Pax Wines is doing amazing work and has a deep portfolio of wines. From very classic wines to fun and funky — a little bit for everyone. Go there for Trousseau Gris, Vermentino, Chenin Blanc, some of the finest Pinot Blanc in all the lands, Charbono, and some Grenache-based wines, but you can’t come here without tasting the Syrah. So well balanced and delicious, I would say Pax is one of the kings of Syrah making. This was an absolute terrific experience.

    We were recently invited to a winery party at Cruse Wine Company. Michael Cruse is a young, super talented winemaker. He has some of the best sparkling wine skills I have ever tasted. He gets it.

    Some people make sparkling wine and it’s good. He makes stunning sparkling wine. From the Cruse Tradition to the Cruse Sparkling Rancho Chimiles Valdiguie, they are all elegance in a glass. He is also the guy that makes the uber-elusive Ultramarine. Good luck finding that but when you do, get it! It’s like when angels open their wings and sing Dead & Co songs to you, just heavenly.

    Michael also produces still wines that are full of depth and flavor. Monkey Jacket should be on every by the glass section of all wines lists. It’s a blend of Valdiguie (think Gamay), Petite Syrah, and Carignan. The blend changes every year and, at $25, you should crush this. He also produces some Tanat and Syrah that are very elegant and fantastic food wines. They’re great with tacos. How do I know? He had one of Oakland’s best taquerias there serving beautiful tacos.

    We must not only drink wine — we must eat as well! We stopped in a local charcuterie producer that I really like called Journeyman. They produce some of the best salumi around, and little did I know they have a salumi club where they ship you meat! Hell yes, I signed up! Didn’t know meat clubs were a thing but I’m sure as hell happy they are!

    The last meal we had in Sonoma was a special one. It’s a place that I have been waiting to try called Animo in the city of Sonoma. There isn’t a lot of info on their website because they don’t have one. It’s really small — maybe eight to 10 tables. Animo is Korean- and Basque-influenced with a stunning wood-fired grill with food that is all meant to share. Definitely my kind of place. The flavors are subtle but deep and developed.

    Our first bite was grilled hen of the woods mushrooms served with a dome of yuzu and warm egg yolk. Then cacio e pepe with uni, followed by the Manila clams with chorizo, saffron aioli, and banging nuoc cham!

    Entrees are big and bad ass. Whole crowns of slow-roasted duck that are cooked over that beautiful fire and plenty of steaks, but the thing that caught our eyes was the whole turbot fish. It was perfection with crispy skin, the meat was so filled with gelatin, and the sauce was so light and clean. With a side of kimchi fried rice with Katz’s Deli pastrami and a fried egg put us right where we needed to be. They offered one dessert only, a Basque cheesecake that was so creamy it must have been made from the tears of unicorns. It was a fantastic meal.

    All in all, get to Sonoma County. It’s big and spread out with so many microclimates and amazing food. You want Pinot Noir and Chardonnay? Go to Russian River and the Coast. You want Zinfandel? Head up to Dry Creek Valley. You want Syrah? Go see Pax on those Sonoma hillsides. It’s a beautiful place of wineries, orchards, cheesemakers, farmers and fisherfolk. Ever heard of Hog Island Oysters? Yep, that’s Sonoma too.

    Safe travels, my friends.

    Sonoma wine bottle

    Photo by Chris Shepherd

    Sonoma wineries produce many styles.

    -----

    Contact our Wine Guy via email at chris@chrisshepherdconcepts.com.

    Chris Shepherd won a James Beard Award for Best Chef: Southwest in 2014. The Southern Smoke Foundation, a nonprofit he co-founded with his wife Lindsey Brown, has distributed more than $10 million to hospitality workers in crisis through its Emergency Relief Fund. Currently, he's working on a new TV show called Eat Like A Local that will air on KPRC beginning in September.

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    Welcome Aboard

    10 things to know about the new luxury cruise line sailing from Galveston

    Brianna McClane
    Jan 30, 2026 | 10:33 am
    MSC Seascape Galveston Cruise
    Photo courtesy of MSC Cruises
    MSC Cruises may have launched its first homeported ship from Galveston this past November, but the cruise line is a giant in the industry.

    For decades, Galveston has served as Texas cruisers’ gateway to the sea, but the arrival of MSC Cruises signals a new era. The MSC Seascape’s maiden launch from the island this past November marked the first time the Switzerland-based cruise line homeported a ship in Texas — a notable upgrade for travelers accustomed to shorter, more casual sailings from Galveston.
    The MSC Seascape carries nearly 4,000 passengers across a seven-day Caribbean itinerary with stops in Costa Maya and Cozumel, Mexico, and Roatán, Honduras.

    MSC Seascape Galveston Cruise

    Photo courtesy of MSC Cruises

    MSC Cruises may have launched its first homeported ship from Galveston this past November, but the cruise line is a giant in the industry.

    MSC may be new to Texas, but it’s a global cruising heavyweight. The privately owned company is the world’s third-largest cruise brand, operating 25 ships that visit more than 300 destinations worldwide, with clear ambitions for continued expansion.

    Here are 10 things to know before sailing away on the MSC Seascape. (Full disclosure: MSC Cruises hosted the author, but her opinions are her own.)

    1. The MSC Yacht Club offers a ship-within-a-ship experience
    For those seeking a more intimate stay aboard a vessel hosting thousands, there’s the MSC Yacht Club. One of the largest in the fleet at roughly 32,000 square feet, the Yacht Club functions as a luxury hotel inside the ship, complete with concierge staff, butlers, and an attentive housekeeping team. Located at the front of the Seascape, the private enclave has its own restaurant and lounge, outdoor bar and grill, sundeck, and pool.

    While travelers might be tempted to spend the entire trip here, nearly 10 decks of amenities and fun encourage venturing beyond the velvet rope. Each Yacht Club guest receives a wristband that makes getting around the ship effortless, serving as a room key, virtual wallet, access pass to exclusive areas, and even signaling the ship’s elevators to prioritize their selected deck. Yacht Club stays aboard the Seascape range from approximately $2,000 to $7,000 per person, depending on the stateroom.

    2. Yacht Club dining is flexible and personable
    Freedom from scheduling is one of the Yacht Club’s biggest perks. The club’s private restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner without reservations, with the head chef emerging from the kitchen and personally offering to prepare off-menu dishes if the rotating selections don’t tempt diners. Dishes range from comfort-forward burgers to refined plates like risotto with clams. There never seemed to be a wait, even on gala night, when the dining room filled for steak and lobster.

    A poolside buffet and bar fuel sunbathers, while room service covers everything from lazy mornings to late-night cookie-and-milk deliveries. At nearly any hour, a small cluster of cruisers could be found in the Top Sail Lounge, grazing on snacks, ordering from the full bar, and watching the sea stretch endlessly ahead.

    3. Specialty restaurants can’t outshine Houston’s dining scene
    It’s hard to wow Houstonians when the city’s dining scene sets such a high bar, so it's no surprise that expectations should be tempered for the ship's specialty restaurants. The teppanyaki grill provides entertaining hibachi theatrics, though dishes lack the depth of flavor found at Houston’s Asian restaurants. Butcher’s Cut, the Texas-inspired steakhouse, feels more like an upscale national chain than a local icon such as Pappas Bros. The Seascape's main casual eatery, Marketplace Buffet, stands out for its breadth of buffets, particularly its international offerings, including flavorful Indian dishes.

    4. The thermal suite is a standout feature
    From barber services to massages and manicures, the Aurea Spa has a full slate of wellness experiences. The thermal suite is a highlight where cruisers can reset after a day (or night) of indulgence. Guests can wander through a variety of saunas, steam rooms with sensory lighting, a snow room, whirlpool, and contrast-therapy showers — or catch a cat nap in the salt room. Access to the thermal area is complimentary for Yacht Club guests, along with a 10 percent discount on additional spa treatments.

    5. The extra premium beverage package delivers
    Included with the MSC Yacht Club, the extra premium beverage package demonstrates just why the term “booze cruise” exists. Cruisers can enjoy beer, wine, cocktails, top-shelf spirits, and non-alcoholic drinks anywhere on the ship, with a daily limit of 15 alcoholic beverages.

    Cocktails must be priced at $16 or less to qualify — a frustrating caveat, especially at Butcher’s Cut, where drink prices exceed the threshold and provide another reason to skip the restaurant.

    6. Service is attentive and highly personalized
    Around-the-clock concierge and butler service may feel unfamiliar to many American travelers, but it quickly becomes a highlight of the trip. The level of service and attention to detail is immaculate, with staff members remembering preferred drinks, dietary restrictions, and room preferences, greeting guests by name in hallways and readily fulfilling requests. Shout out to Abbas, our dedicated butler, who tracked down a sunscreen that was misplaced at the pool, and John, who always kept our room's ice bucket fresh.

    7. There’s less entertainment, but still plenty to do
    The Seascape offers fewer large-scale entertainment options than some Gulf-based competitors, but boredom is unlikely. The Robotron thrill ride swings riders high above the water, while an F1 Simulator, sports court, ping pong tables, casino, and live music throughout the ship provide variety. Le Cabaret Rouge hosts interactive events and dance parties, and the Chora Theatre’s lineup includes stand-up comedy and stage productions. Not only are shows free — Yacht Club guests have reserved seating, making spontaneous attendance easy. The seats are located toward the back, so be aware that convenience might triumph over visibility.

    8. Bring the necessities, shop the luxuries
    Shopping onboard leans high-end, so essentials are best packed ahead of time. A kids’ shop offers LEGO sets and MSC-branded souvenirs, while the duty-free store stocks alcohol, nicotine products, and hard-to-find snack flavors like international Pringles and Oreos.

    A stop at the chocolate stop is recommended, if only to view the oversized sculptures crafted from the sweet treat. Constant sales occur throughout the voyage, including big discounts on luxury perfumes and watches, so keep an eye on the daily itinerary if that’s of interest. A more expansive selection of basics, like allergy medication, would be ideal, but there’s always a remedy to be found in one of the port’s many drug stores.

    9. Excursions make port days easy
    For travelers who prefer a curated experience, MSC offers numerous shore excursions at all three ports. Costa Maya offers access to Mayan ruins like Kohunlich, which requires a two-hour van ride inland and rewards visitors with massive stucco masks honoring the sun god, dating back to around 500 A.D. For travelers eager to embrace beach life, each destination offers adventures such as snorkeling, boating, swimming, white-sand beaches, and tequila tastings. Independent explorers will also find the ports easy to navigate on their own, with shops, bars, and pools just steps from the ship, making it simple to tailor each stop to your travel style.

    10. VIP treatment begins before stepping onboard
    Yacht Club guests enjoy priority embarkation with a dedicated security line and private waiting area stocked with complimentary snacks and drinks. Disembarkation is also a breeze thanks to staff escorting guests off the ship at ports and at the trip’s end. From the gangway to the parking garage took less than 20 minutes, where reminiscing about the voyage immediately began.

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