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    Fly the friendly skies

    United Airlines finally gets something right: The Dreamliner puts the romance back in flying

    Clifford Pugh
    By Clifford Pugh
    Jun 14, 2013 | 9:17 am

    CHICAGO — One of the meanest things the "new" United Airlines did after Southwest Airlines won the right to fly to international destinations out of Hobby Airport was cancel nonstop service from Houston to Paris.

    Now if travelers want to fly from the Bayou City to the City of Light on United, they have to change planes in Newark, Washington, D.C. or Chicago. Air France flies directly from Bush Intercontinental to Charles de Gaulle, but for those like me scrambling to keep United frequent flyer status for a little longer before deciding whether to give up on the airline entirely, scouring for United options remains a priority.

    I wondered, what would the Dreamliner be like in coach?

    When planning a trip to Paris to cover next week's Liaisons au Louvre Trois, the big fundraiser for the famed French museum hosted by Becca Cason Thrash that is enticing 50 or so Houstonians to cross the pond for the festivities, I was just about to make a reservation on Air France, when I looked on the United website one more time and found a route that sealed the deal.

    I could connect through Chicago to Paris by taking the new 787 Dreamliner from Houston. Of course, it meant a four-hour layover in Chicago to catch the Paris flight, which isn't on a Dreamliner, but I jumped at the opportunity. I've been obsessed with the Dreamliner and wondered if could put some romance back in flying — even on a 2-hour-18-minute excursion to the Windy City.

    My buddy, the road warrior Jane Howze, wrote about flying on the Dreamliner late last year (she even sat in the cockpit) before the plane was removed from service for a few months due to battery problems. But she flew first class, where each cubicle is the size of a small house.

    I wondered, what would it be like in coach?

    Big overhead bins

    I wasn't a happy camper after going through a long, slow-moving line at security and arriving at the gate to see boarding in five separate groups. However, the plane, which seats 203 passengers, filled up amazingly quickly (a flight attendant said it really helps to have two aisles instead of only one) and, even though the plane was packed, there was room to spare in the oversized overhead bins.

    (A flight attendant noted that each bin holds four sizeable roller carry-ons when each piece is turned on its side. "It allows us to accommodate all of your carry-ons," he said. I thought I was dreaming, as I tried to recall when was the last time I heard those words on an airplane. Never, I concluded.)

    "It allows us to accommodate all of your carry-ons," he said. I thought I was dreaming, as I tried to recall when was the last time I heard those words on an airplane.

    At just over 6 feet tall, I could stand in the aisle and have another foot-and-a-half to spare before touching the ceiling. And once in my seat, which I later found out was Economy Plus with a little more room, I found that I could cross my legs without having to stick my foot out in the aisle as I have do on most United flights. And when the person in front of me reclined her seat, it didn't come within inches of my face as it does on most flights.

    (After the flight ended I went into the Economy section a few rows back and tested the seats, and they, too, seemed much roomier than most airplanes.)

    The woman next to me noted that each seat contained a blanket and pillow. "On all other planes, they make you ask for this stuff," she said.

    No wonder everyone seemed so happy on this flight. Even the flight attendants seemed to be having a good day.

    Before we took off, the lead flight attendant was practically giddy as he urged us to take out our cameras to capture a light test, in which neon-colored lights raced through the plane in a kaleidoscope of colors as the theme from 2001: A Space Odyssey played on the intercom.

    The windows of the plane are tinted green, which gave me the uneasy feeling that I was underwater, and while we idled on the runway, a high-pitched noise pierced my eardrums. (Fortunately it went away, once the plane moved.)

    Except for a bumpy landing in Chicago, the flight was exceptionally smooth, and I felt better than I usually do at the end of most flights. United touts the Dreamliner's new air filtration system and a lower cabin altitude that allows passengers to absorb more oxygen on the flight, resulting in fewer headaches and less fatigue, and I think there may be something to it.

    Room for sex

    Among other features, the lavatories are big enough to have comfortable sex in (not that I wanted to join the Mile High Club on this flight), and when you flush the toilet the lid goes down automatically.

    As on most United flights, soft drinks were free and snack boxes were available for purchase. (I remain partial to the Tapas snack box.)

    Each seat in coach came with free headsets and an abundance of viewing choices (I watched an episode of The Big Bang Theory with Mandarin subtitles and the finale of 30 Rock). These and other freebies are obviously meant for international travelers, where most of the Dreamliner planes will soon be headed.

    But for now, you can fly the Dreamliner between Houston and other United hubs like Chicago, Denver and Newark. If you're going to any of those cities soon, I suggest you give the Dreamliner a try. A Houston-Lagos international flight is slated to begin in August.

    Plus, I found something else really reassuring about the Dreamliner — all of the the metal bins in the galley are still marked with the Continental name.

    My only problem now: I'm waiting on the flight from Chicago to Paris on a more traditional plane — the 767. My Houston to Chicago flight is only a dream.

    But it was good while it lasted.

    The Dreamliner has room for a lot of passengers but still feels roomy.

    United Airlines Dreamliner interior
      
    Courtesy photo
    The Dreamliner has room for a lot of passengers but still feels roomy.
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    American in Paris

    Personal Paris: Houston frequent flyer reveals fave things to do in her favorite city

    Clifford Pugh
    By Clifford Pugh
    Jul 22, 2013 | 9:11 pm
    Personal Paris: Houston frequent flyer reveals fave things to do in her favorite city
    Photo by Eric Pouhier Wikipedia
    The Grand Palais is on Iannarelli's must-see list.

    Paris is almost like a second home for aircraft broker Janine Iannarelli. The founder of Houston-based Par Avion Ltd., Iannarelli travels regularly to the City of Light to buy and sell private jets to her international clientele. Last month, she was at the Paris Air Show, where she attended a lavish party in a chalet at the end of the runway hosted by Dassault Aviation, which introduced two new Falcon business jets, and a big party hosted by Breitling, which sponsors the largest aerobatic jet team in Europe.

    She also attended the Prix de Diane (France's answer to Ascot) at the Hippodrome de Chantilly, where the parade of hats was truly amazing. Iannarelli wore a design by Houstonian Gabriella Dror. And then she did what just about every stylish tourist does in the world's fashion capital: She went shopping.

    So we thought what better way to close out our Vive la France special editorial series, by asking Iannarelli for some of her favorite things to do in her favorite city.

    1. Go for a ride on a Bateaux Mouche

    Sure it may seem a little cheesy, but there's nothing like gliding down the Seine at night in one of the fabled excursion boats that passes by many of the city's most famous tourist attractions, Iannarelli says. "I don't care how much you know Paris or don't, it's something you won't forget." (Rent the 1963 movie, Charade, starring Audrey Hepburn and Cary Grant, to get an idea of how romantic it can be.) A ride last around 75 minutes if you're not on a dinner cruise.

    2. Visit Notre-Dame Cathedral

    Widely considered to be one of the finest examples of French Gothic architecture in the world, "it's a monument you need to see," says Iannarelli. "And it's even better if you've read Ken Follett's Pillars of the Earth."

    3. Stop by the Grand Palais

    While the Louvre and Musée d'Orsay are on everyone's list, Iannarelli loves the Grand Palais, the grand palace with an enormous glass roof built for the World Fair of 1900. The best time to go is on a Sunday afternoon when there's a special exhibit. "It's so quintessential Paris," she says.

    4. Shop at Le Bon Marché

    Sure, there are plenty of great luxury shops on the Avenue Montaigne and Rue Saint-Honoré, but Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche is in a class by itself. Founded in 1852, the store has one of the world's best-edited luxury selections, from the latest Chanel handbag, which Iannarelli purchased on this trip, to a wide variety of brightly colored socks that George W. Bush would love.

    5. Watch the world go by at the Jardin des Tuileries

    With a prime location between the Louvre and Place de la Concorde, the top garden in Paris is a perfect place for people watching.

    6. Have a drink at the Plaza Athénée

    With the Ritz Paris closed until December 2014 for renovation, there's no opportunity to grab a drink at Harry's Bar. So try the next best thing: The downstairs bar at the Plaza Athénée, on the Avenue Montaigne, is a popular late-night gathering spot as musicians, singers and guests launch into impromptu performances around the piano.

    7. Shop at Hervé Leroux

    The designer who invented the bandage dress has his own boutique with designs you won't see everywhere else. "He's a little bit under the radar," Iannarelli says.

    8. Dine at Le Goutillon in Chantilly

    Its location an hour outside Paris isn't convenient, but ​Iannarelli loves the classic French cuisine and the great people watching. "It's very famous among the horsey set," she says. "Anyone who is anyone in the equestrian world is there."

    Enjoy a boat ride down the Seine on a Bateau Mouche. Notre-Dame Cathedral, a must-see in itself, is in the background.

    Paris boat ride down the Seine on a Bateau Mouche tourist boat
      
    Photo by Attila Terbócs Wikipedia
    Enjoy a boat ride down the Seine on a Bateau Mouche. Notre-Dame Cathedral, a must-see in itself, is in the background.
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