can't-miss dumplings
Unlikely inner loop dim sum restaurant has Houston diners buzzing
Located in a Courtyard by Marriott, Silk Road has found a following with its elevated dim sum menu.
It’s an unexpected but welcome discovery: handcrafted dim sum served in the lobby of a Courtyard by Marriott. At the Rice University location, hotel guests and locals alike can now enjoy a refined Cantonese dining experience with the debut of Silk Road, celebrating its grand opening on Sunday, April 13, at 2929 Westpark Dr.
The restaurant’s name nods not only to the historic Silk Road trade routes that connected East to West but also reflects the journey of owner Siri Lao and chef Thawatchai Insignha, who have brought their Thai-Chinese heritage to West U.
For Lao, food has always been personal. Her parents were street vendors in northern Thailand, and her first restaurant job was front-of-house at a Cantonese dim sum spot during the Lunar New Year rushes. Dim sum holds deep meaning for Lao. It sustained her family in their early years and represents warmth, connection, and craft, according to press materials. Though she later moved to the U.S. to pursue a career as a certified public accountant, she still dreamt of opening a dim sum restaurant that matched Bangkok’s high standards.
That vision began taking shape after Lao was introduced to chef Insignha, a dim sum master with more than 26 years of experience. Together, they set out to challenge Houston’s perception of dim sum as casual or inexpensive food and instead offer something more refined that highlights the technique, cultural depth, and artistry behind each piece.
Raised in rural Thailand, Insingha trained under Hong Kong master chefs and went on to work at Michelin-recognized establishments Yu Ting Yuan at the Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok and Nan Bei at the Rosewood Bangkok.
A business connection introduced Lao to the Courtyard Marriott, where the team discovered the hotel’s unused lobby space as a blank canvas. The hotel setting seemed a perfect fit for Lao and Insignha, who both have backgrounds in international hotel operations.
The menu combines traditional dim sum favorites, like the chef’s signature crispy shrimp cheung fun, siu mai, and har gow, alongside inventive offerings, such as cordyceps dumplings and crispy noodles with gravy. The bar program offers Asian-inspired twists on classic cocktails, including a sake lychee martini, a green tea rosemary old fashioned, and a lemongrass lemon drop.
Tea is an essential part of the Silk Road experience, in keeping with the Cantonese tradition of yum cha, the ritual of enjoying dim sum with tea. The restaurant sources green, white, Oolong, and black teas largely from northern Thailand. Patrons can choose from brews such as a floral custom Jasmine blend, Dong Ding Oolong from Thailand’s mountainous north, and the more niche Pu-erh (Yi Wu Tiger Mountain Ripe). Each tea is selected to complement different flavor profiles on the menu.
After a soft opening in late February, the team faced the challenge of shifting perceptions around dim sum, which is often seen in Houston as needing to be inexpensive and oversized. Despite the slow start, the restaurant has found support among diners such as the Houston Chronicle's Bao Ong, who embrace its mission to elevate the cuisine and expand expectations for what dim sum can be in Houston.
