What's Eric Eating Episodes 308 and 309

Bobby Heugel dishes on his big Montrose bar rescue, why Houston needs to shake up cocktail pricing, and more

Bobby Heugel is this week's guest.

Courtesy of Through Fare Hospitality.

On this week’s interview episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” Thorough Fare Hospitality co-founder Bobby Heugel joins CultureMap food editor Eric Sandler to discuss his latest projects. It’s been five years since the veteran restaurant and bar owner made his last appearance on the show, so the duo have much to discuss.

The conversation begins a discussion about Catbirds. Earlier this month, Heugel announced he had acquired the assets and name of the iconic Montrose dive from former owner Shelly Wilburn. At the time, he hadn’t made a decision about whether to reopen the space with a new name, but he confirms to Sandler the bar will reopen as Catbirds — hopefully in mid-November. He also shares that his friend and collaborator Peter Jahnke will be a co-owner of the bar.

“The two of us have been in there personally cleaning up Catbirds . . . We’ve been getting rid of some clutter. Other than that, we don’t plan to change very much,” Heugel says about his plans for the casual, neighborhood spot.

“I think when people come back to the bar. They will go, this is Catbirds, and they’ll be able to point out a few things we changed. I think for the most part it will be the bar they’ve known for a very long time,” he says.

The conversation covers a range of other topics, including the decision to open Refuge last year as a companion to Anvil, the evolution of Better Luck Tomorrow as Heugel and Yu make plans for a second location, and the ways Montrose has changed over the years. They also discuss the current state of cocktail prices in Houston. All of Heugel’s bars offer generous happy hours. It’s a topic he feels strongly about.

“A double digit happy hour is ridiculous to me,” Heugel says. “I’m sorry if any of my friends are running bars with double digit happy hours. $10 is not a happy hour price, and I see it all the time. There’s nothing happy about that. It’s a sad hour. $10? That’s ridiculous. It’s not a happy hour.”

On this week’s first episode, Sandler and co-host Michael Fulmer discuss the news of the week. Their topics include Texas Monthly’s list of the state’s 25 best new barbecue joints; Pho Binh Trailer closing after 40 years; and Granger’s, an elevated neighborhood restaurant coming to the Museum District next year.

In the restaurants of the week segment, they discuss two restaurants where they recently ate brunch. First, they praise Dante’s River Oaks, a new Italian restaurant, for its porchetta sandwich, octopus salad, and polish service. Then, they rave about the huevos rancheros, barbacoa taco, and breakfast margarita at Goode Co. Kitchen & Cantina’s location in the Heights.

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2 staples shuttered

Downtown Italian restaurant and Upper Kirby wine bar suddenly close

Cru, seen here in happier times.

Inevitably, the end of the year brings a surprise closure or two, and 2024 is no exception. Both a staple downtown Italian restaurant and an Upper Kirby wine bar have quietly closed this week.

Sambuca closed after service on December 16, owner Kim Forsythe shared on Facebook. Open for 22 years in downtown’s The Rice apartment building, the restaurant was well known for its live music and lively atmosphere. While the restaurant had long been a staple for both downtown office workers and residents, it never fully recovered from the lingering economic changes brought about by the COVID-19 pandemic.

“In recent years, we've faced challenges that have tested our resilience,” Forsythe writes. “The changing climate of our city, with rising homelessness and crime, coupled with the lingering impacts of COVID and the resulting empty office spaces, has created a perfect storm that we could not weather. Though we fought with everything we had to keep our doors open, we're choosing to close this chapter with gratitude, carrying countless memories over the past 22 years.”

Crú Food & Wine Bar has closed its location in Upper Kirby’s Shops at Arrive development, according to a post former managing partner Annette Amaya on Instagram. In addition to the post about the closure, it is no longer accepting reservations via Open Table.

First opened in 2011, Crú earned a following for its eclectic wine list and a food menu that focused on familiar fare such as cheese and charcuterie boards and pizzas. Its location in The Woodlands remains open.

The Shops at Arrive have been busy this year with new openings. Staples such as Eddie V’s and Pondicheri have been joined by PostScript, a female-focused restaurant inspired by Dallas’ XOXO Dining Room, and Kira, an intimate hand roll bar from the team behind upscale omakase counter Neo.

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