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    Food for Thought

    Thanks, Houston, for a decade of memorable meals

    Marene Gustin
    Dec 30, 2009 | 10:20 am
    • Molina's Cantina and margaritas always go hand-in-hand.
      Photo by Jordan Chan
    • Tony's, from its original location on Post Oak to its current Richmond Avenuelocation, makes truffle season a wonderful time of the year - every year.
      Photo by Chris Conyers
    • Thanks for the memories, Avalon Diner, especially your bowl of Frito chili piepaired with your fresh limeade.
    • Raise a glass to 2010 and more fabulous meals to come!

    How on earth have 10 years of eating gone by so quickly?

    Sadly, I can’t remember a single meal from 2000. I was just so glad my computer was still working and Y2K had turned out to be a myth. E-mail was alive and well, although Facebook and Twitter weren’t even a gleam in restaurant PR folks’ eyes yet. Houstonians were still loving Tex-Mex—I ate out at the original Berryhill a lot—steakhouses and Italian. The first really memorable meal I can recall of the decade was at the second incarnation of Anthony’s on Kirby Drive.

    And it wasn’t the now-bulldozed restaurant's food that made it so memorable, but the simple fact that eating out at a restaurant seemed almost normal.

    It was Sept. 12, 2001 and the world was in shock, but somehow sitting in Anthony’s and eating those housemade potato chips smothered in Parmesan cheese made me realize life would go on. That’s the beauty of a familiar restaurant: The special sense of continuity that your favorite foods offer. The medium-rare filet mignon and white Burgundy were wonderful, but the emotional fare was even more filling.

    Anthony's is long gone, and so is the Tony's on Post Oak, but I can still remember dining there in 2002, dragging myself to that haven of red velvet wallpaper just days after major surgery because it was Alba truffle season. And it was worth it; I can still taste the meaty white truffle risotto, even smell that wonderful scent. Truffle season at Tony’s is one of the highlights of any foodie’s year.

    Then there was the first time I tried Feast. After all the media hype I was afraid it wouldn’t live up to its rep, but I was wrong. Not only was the décor of the old Montrose house less stuffy than I expected, but when the waiter brought a platter with a slow-braised lamb’s neck the size of my Chihuahua on it I practically swooned. To this day it’s still the best lamb I’ve ever eaten. And the whiskey prunes were sumptuous, too.

    I’ve had a lot of great meals at Hugo’s, but one that really stands out actually started at Molina’s Cantina on Washington Avenue while I was interviewing the Molina brothers. Details are a little hazy now as I believe there were a few margaritas involved, but somehow we all wound up at Hugo’s eating chapulines. Chef Hugo fried the little grasshoppers up and served them with guacamole on blue tortillas. They were tiny tacos of salty, crispy delight.

    So many meals over the past 10 years come to mind, from a girls luncheon of Salade de crabe et avocat, vinaigrette a’ l’orange at La Colombe d’Or with a bottle of bubbly to a bowl of Frito chili pie at Avalon Diner paired with their fresh limeade. (Editors Note: Vogue magazine editor Anna Wintour and her main squeeze Shelby Bryan were spotted at Avalon having a late lunch on New Year's Eve.)

    One of the best things about our city is the diversity of restaurants we have to choose from. From Tony’s to taco stands, we can eat our way through good times and bad, sampling culture, cuisine and camaraderie. So Happy New Year to you, and let’s all raise a glass to 2010 and all the great meals yet to come.

    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    say hey to Hypsi

    Houston chef's hip new Italian restaurant now open in Heights hotel

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 4, 2025 | 5:05 pm
    Hypsi restaurant food spread
    Photo by Julie Soefer
    Hypsi serves pasta and other Itaian-inspired dishes.

    A new Italian restaurant is now open in the Heights. Located within the newly opened Hotel Daphne, Hypsi marks chef Terrence Gallivan’s return to professional cooking in Houston.

    Known for his time as the co-execuive chef of The Pass and Provisions and owner of ElRo Pizza and Crudo, Gallivan brings strong culinary credentials to Hypsi. Although he isn’t known explicitly for Italian fare, he has significant experience making pizza, pasts, and other Italian-inspired dishes. After closing ElRo last year, the chef says that working for Bunkhouse Hotels, the Austin-based company that operates the Daphne, had a lot of appeal.

    “My wife and I always made it a point to stop at their places whenever we’re in Austin. They know how to make cool stuff,” Gallivan says.

    Hypsi’s menu includes updated takes on Italian fare begins with starters such as lamb meatballs, black truffle arancini, and Caesar salad. A selection of house-made pastas include squid ink radiatori with rock shrimp, butternut squash tortellini, and lumache with vodka sauce that gets a little heat from nduja. Entree choices include a roast chicken, pork Milanese, and roasted snapper with salsa verde.

    The restaurant is also open for breakfast during the week and brunch on the weekends with items such as a panatone waffle, frittata, and breakfast sandwich. Lunch will follow in January.

    “We took inspiration from tradition without being traditional,” Gallivan says. Later, he adds, “For me, it’s about balance. You try to please everybody. I want my mom to enjoy herself as much as a 25-year-old foodie. It’s important to hit as many marks as you can.”

    One of the restaurant’s signatures will be the mozzarella cart that rolls through its dining room. Gallivan says he’s sourcing a mix of both American and imported Italian cheeses that will rotate every week or two. The cheese is served with a range of pickled fruit and vegetables, olive oil, aged balsamic vinegar, focaccia, and more. Of course, seeing a cart immediately grabs diners’ attention, making them want whatever is on offer.

    “That’s the beauty of carts,” Gallivan says. “It’s a fun thing to do. I think sometimes we get a little too serious in restaurants. It’s supposed to be fun. People are here to enjoy themselves.”

    All that eating and drinking takes place in a dining room that’s inspired by Prohibition-era speakeasies, according to press materials. Details include blueberry lava stone on the bar, vintage velvet chairs, and custom Carimate dining chairs by Vico Magistretti. An outdoor patio features brick pavers, mosaic tables, and sculptures.

    Hypsi restaurant food spread

    Photo by Julie Soefer

    Hypsi serves pasta and other Itaian-inspired dishes.

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    news/restaurants-bars

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