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    Food for Thought

    Top chefs reveal what they want most for Christmas

    Marene Gustin
    Dec 15, 2011 | 11:06 am
    • “On top of my wish list this Christmas is a Saeco Xelsis Espresso Machine,” saysVanessa O’Donnell, pastry queen of the Ooh, La, La Dessert Boutiques.
      Photo courtesy of Ooh La La
    • Ryan Hildebrand wants a smoker. But will that fit down a chimney?
      Photo by Shannon O'Hara
    • Ronnie Killen of Pearland’s Killen’s Steakhouse wants a centrifuge forChristmas.
    • “The kitchen gadgets at the top of my list would be a commercial grade Cryovacmachine and a plunger style hand crank sausage stuffer,” says chef Mark Clayton.
      Photo by Kimberly Park
    • Soren Pedersen, executive chef and partner at Sorrel Urban Bistro, wants a blastchiller, a kitchen device that chills food fast without chefs having to messwith an ice bath.
      Photo by Kimberly Park
    • Pastry chef Kristen Schafbuch just wants a marble slab for tempering chocolates.
      Photo by Michelle Eulene
    • A heavy meat cleaver is what chef Greg Lowry is dreaming of.
      Photo by Kimberly Park
    • Jason Chaney, executive chef of The Barbed Rose Steakhouse and Seafood Co. inAlvin, wants Kuhn Rikon Swiss peelers.
      Photo by Kimberly Park

    Dear Santa, I’ve been a really, really good chef this year . . .

    Or, at least that’s how I imagine chefs begin their letters to Santa at this time of year. But just what is it they are asking for, I wonder? I mean, they have a whole restaurant of cool cooking stuff to play with everyday, so what do they want The Big Guy to bring them?

    “On top of my wish list this Christmas is a Saeco Xelsis Espresso Machine,” says Vanessa O’Donnell, pastry queen of the Ooh, La, La Dessert Boutiques. “Over the summer I took a barista class with Katz Coffee and my love for espresso grew. I would love to be able to make espressos, lattes, macchiatos or cappuccinos in the comfort of my own home and I know my husband wouldn't mind either.”

    Over at the new Triniti the chefs have visions of tiny tongs and big sharp things dancing in their heads.

    While you could save a lot of Starbucks’ bucks with an in-home espresso machine, this baby will set Santa back about two and a half large.

    Jason Chaney, executive chef of The Barbed Rose Steakhouse and Seafood Co. in Alvin, wants something a little less expensive from Santa this year.

    “I want Kuhn Rikon Swiss peelers. They always disappear!” he says.

    And why wouldn’t they? The cute and colorful little Swiss peelers have carbon-steel blades that make peeling fruits and veggies a breeze. And at just $4 each, they’d make great stocking stuffers. (Hint, hint.)

    The restaurant’s butcher, Jay Peek, wants to wake up Christmas morn to find a magnetic knife storage rail under his tree.

    “Safe, clean and impressive to display my knives,” he says. And I have to agree, since I have one in my kitchen. It’s a much more hygienic way to store your knives than keeping them in a butcher block.

    And, if Santa still has room in his bag, he can drop off a spaetzle press/noodle maker for The Barbed Rose’s owner Joe Schneider, because the one he had got broken.

    Over at the new Triniti the chefs have visions of tiny tongs and big sharp things dancing in their heads. Chef de cuisine Jose Hernandez wants tweezer tongs in his stocking since, he says, “I can work in a cleaner and more precise manner and they help me place food items with more detail.”

    But for chef Greg Lowry it’s not the delicate details that get him going. A heavy meat cleaver is what he’s dreaming of.

    “Because of all of the house butchery we will be doing,” he says. And, “using a cleaver is a great way to calm my nerves.”

    Um, OK. I’m backing away now. Please put the big, shiny, sharp thing down.

    Oh, and executive chef/owner Ryan Hildebrand wants a smoker. But will that fit down a chimney?

    High-end Visions

    Soren Pedersen, executive chef and partner at Sorrel Urban Bistro, wants a blast chiller, a kitchen device that chills food fast without chefs having to mess with an ice bath. But they don’t come cheap: Some models go for as much as $20,000. And I’m not sure the elves make those babies up at the North Pole toy shop.

    But his pastry chef Kristen Schafbuch just wants a marble slab for tempering chocolates, so maybe that will balance out.

    Ronnie Killen, of Pearland’s Killen’s Steakhouse, wants a centrifuge for Christmas. Centrifuges are big machines that spin like crazy to separate heavy stuff, you know, like in the hospital lab where they spin the blood to separate the liquid from the platelets. Of course, in a kitchen you can use it to clarify juices and demulsify emulsions. And cool stuff like that.

    Randy Rucker’s Conat won’t be open until early next year, so maybe chef de cuisine Mark Clayton will get his Christmas wish goodies by then.

    “The kitchen gadgets at the top of my list would be a commercial grade Cryovac machine and a plunger style hand crank sausage stuffer,” he says. “The Cryovac machine is extremely useful tool for everything from extending the shelf life of products to allowing for compact storage, it can also alter the texture and appearance of food without applying heat.

    "It’s an amazing tool. The plunger style hand crank sausage stuffer because it maintains the integrity of well made sausage (keeps the cubes of fat and garnish intact) and doesn't generate a lot of heat like a motorized stuffer. It also allows for better control when stuffing sausage.”

    Gee, and all I asked for was a new grill pan. But maybe these chefs have been better than I have this year. I certainly hope so otherwise they’ll be cooking with that lump of coal they’ll be getting in their stockings.

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    Chris Cusack explains

    Houston bar owner speaks out about surprise arrest for health code violations

    Eric Sandler
    May 11, 2026 | 3:50 pm
    Chris Cusack
    Photo by Sergio Trevino
    Chris Cusack owns two locations of Betelgeuse Betelgeuse.

    Certainly one of the most unusual interactions between a restaurant and City of Houston officials took place on Wednesday, May 6 when Betelgeuse Betelgeuse owner Chris Cusack was arrested for health code violations at his location on Washington Avenue.

    News of the arrest spread quickly across social media over the weekend. Now, Cusack is ready to tell his side of the story.

    Cusack, whose time operating restaurants in Houston goes back more than 15 years to Down House and its affiliated restaurants such as Hunky Dory and D&T Drive Inn, tells CultureMap the problem began on Monday, May 4 when a health department inspector came to Betelgeuse Betelgeuse and asked to see the restaurant’s grease trap.

    The only problem is that location has never had a grease trap. Prior to becoming Betelgeuse Betelgeuse, it was Liberty Station, a pioneering bar in Houston’s craft beer and craft cocktail scenes. In the early days, Betelgeuse served food from a food truck. More recently, it prepares its food next door at The Bell and Crane. Cusack acknowledges he didn’t share this information with the inspector.

    “Usually I’m a charmer with the health department, but I was a little defensive. She kept asking me. I said, ‘ma’am, we don’t make food here,’” he explains. “The tone wasn’t my finest moment, but there was no name calling or anything like that. She said, ‘where does the food come from?’ I said, ‘it doesn’t matter where it comes from. It’s produced in a commercial kitchen.’”

    Cusack says he knew there would be a follow up, but he was shocked when the inspector returned two days later with more colleagues from the health department, TABC inspectors, and Houston Police Department officers.

    “I got somewhere between 21 and 25 citations,” Cusack says about the return visit. He got dinged for everything from graffiti in the bathroom to a missing Harris County tax stamp on the photo booth he leases from a vendor (it has both State of Texas and City of Houston stamps, Cusack says).

    One inspector told Cusack he needed a food dealer’s permit. He showed the inspector that a food dealer’s permit had been issued for the restaurant's address under the former food truck’s LLC but not to the LLC that operates Betelgeuse Betelgeuse. Cusack says he had renewed the food truck’s permit in March, but that wasn’t good enough for the inspector. In Cusack’s telling, he was arrested for not having the permit, since it was also flagged as missing in an inspection from October 2025. He's the only person he knows who has ever been arrested for a misdemeanor violation of the health code.

    Cusack says he spent 21 hours in the Harris County Jail. When he got out, he says he was contacted by a more senior official within the Health Department. Once Cusack confirmed he owned both LLCs, he was told he could reopen. Both locations of Betelgeuse Betelgeuse have been operating normally since Friday, May 8.

    Cusack maintains he never knew about the October 2025 inspection, which is why he renewed the food dealer’s permit for the food truck’s LLC rather than applying for one under Betelgeuse Betelgeuse’s LLC. “There’s no paper trail that shows I was given this information,” he says. “I did not get the email [from the Health Department].”

    As for why things got so out of hand, Cusack theorizes he was a victim of Houston Mayor John Whitemire’s crack down on “reckless behavior” on Washington Avenue and stepped up enforcement on bars generally that led to the temporary closure of near northside cocktail bar Rabbit’s Got the Gun.

    Cusack says he’s a “huge supporter” of efforts to reduce crimes like street racing, drug dealing, and sex trafficking along Washington and in its surrounding neighborhoods. Still, he feels targeting by the city for being impolite to a health inspector.

    He plans to fight both the arrest and the citations in court. “I want the charges dropped, and I want it expunged completely from my record. That’s the first thing, and I’m going to try very hard to do it,” he says.

    “That’s going to end up costing thousands of dollars just to deal with the sheer volume,” he adds.

    CultureMap contacted Mayor Whitmire’s office. A representative said the mayor was not aware of the situation and has no comment on an open investigation.

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